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Member postings for extra slim

Here is a list of all the postings extra slim has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: How windy is too windy?
28/09/2016 10:00:52

the wind itself is another factor (I know but bear with me).. I find summer stiff winds very bumpy with turbulent rollers often low down trying to catch you out when landing, but other times of year despite being breezy, it can actually be a smooth wind..

I dont understand the boom in lightweight electric stuff in the UK when our weather is conversely suited. I have all sorts of models, and keep a log, and the ones flown least are the lightweight 3D stuff, as light wind days are few and far between. Yes they will fly fine in a wind, but it turns into a battle and point proving rather than enjoying what they were designed to be good at.

40-60 size nitros with some inertia seem to be better suited to my situation of when I can fly and the weather I am experiencing.

Thread: going back to glow
21/09/2016 21:10:05

Yep, Simons post resonates with me as well, well said that man. Given I think it is a view many would not argue with it does seem strange that the middle tier glow size model availability and range is drying up. Loads of small electrics, a plethora of petrol 30cc and above but dwindling numbers of glow seemingly. I've gone back to old designs off plans and am enjoying it immensely.

Thread: What denotes scale
21/09/2016 15:25:03

according to the wiki definition, you could have a scale model of a stand off scale model ...errr...yeah..errr..

I view it as

someat the same as someat else and usually smaller = scale

someat which looks like someat else and usually smaller = stand off scale

Thread: An old leopard can change his spots
15/09/2016 15:18:43

Good for you mate, must admit, I only use the starter on the first start of the day on my petrols as I dont fly them every week, they become dry in the carb diaphram... It is a bit of a pain hand flicking that first one of the day usually, so I cheat, and stick the starter back in the car afterwards and then hand start for the rest of the day, not needing choke. My routine is to fuel up, choke on and 3 flips, then assemble the model and do checks, leaving carb to wet up before banging the starter on for that first one. Never like just hammering the start on with a dry carb.. probably doesnt matter, but just doesnt sit right with me.

Try not to be tempted by choking for future starts during the day if it takes more than 5-10 flips, as flooded petrols are a complete pain... plug out etc....You were probably fine, as if they are flown regularly they tend to not dry out so much..

Thread: going back to glow
15/09/2016 10:04:01

Keep it down guys... you are ruining my auction site bargains

Seriously though I find variety is the box ticker for me... I have bottles of electrons, cans of petrol, and tubs of methanol, and even recently got the old fella to mix me up some dirty diesel.. and dug out his old control liners and PAW's to teach myself the art of the compression engine..(err still learning as each one seems to have its "personality". culminated in running up dads Mills 2.4 last weekend... 60 years after its last run... complete wow factor for me..

Thread: Dang it! My J'EN starter has packed up
13/09/2016 16:54:25

hobbystores.co.uk seem to have the large one, but I am hoping it is a misprint as it is £47.99!!!.. errr.. like... err.. what??!!!!!

Thread: I've Got to Admit It's Getting Better
12/09/2016 16:45:01

Compared to the american mag I have been getting for years, it has been a complete role reversal with the american mag, becoming more of a leaflet and RCME becoming a really good read and excellent value for money.

Thread: Multi bolt prop what do you do?
12/09/2016 13:57:14

That is a diligent process to be proud of my friend and wholly sensible... I may well be tempted to edit my post/preflight routine to accommodate it, as after all, if the whirly thing on the front has an issue, it is usually downhill / nose down after that!!..

12/09/2016 11:33:31

my method is... drill out centre 10mm... use double sided tape on supplied prop washer, put 10mm bolt through centre, clamping taped washer onto prop... drill first 4mm hole very carefully and slowly with a sharp drill, then drop a 4mm bolt in it to stop it moving, before doing the others. Dropping a bolt in each one as I go.... done quite a few and it works fine...

I agree in changing the bolts to decent high tensile ones, and I did mess about with 45 degree holes conscious of stresses along the blade, but simply couldnt get the prop in a decent hand start position, so opted for the way seen here, and in a good few years it has been fine.

One thing not mentioned, is.. given it is wood, I have found that they become slack(er) over time, and so need nipping up fairly regularly... threadlock doesnt help this, as it is the wood which seems to compress a little.

Thread: BMFA National Flying Centre
08/09/2016 19:33:04

Ummmmm.. "Can we have your money?"..."how much, what for, for when?"..."don't know, but can we have it anyway?"

good luck with that one!! crook

Thread: Diesel guru needed
07/09/2016 13:50:10

Oh I like that, nice bit of black on ya knuckles!... bet it smelt nice in the workshop for a while... diesel is proper aftershave!. Was this just a bit of an experiment?

06/09/2016 17:54:20

Hi Engine doc, it is nice and bouncy, started from cold just now by hand, fuel not connected, few drops in the venturi and about 10 flips later got a nice bang, connected fuel and wound needle out 1 turn and off she went nicely...ran it for a minute, then stopped it by pulling line off, she was hot even with compression turned right the way out and needle open another half turn (the max it would run on minimum compression)...tried hot start but no joy, seemed very easy compression wise once it is hot... Noticed a puddle of blackened burnt fuel around the back of its mount low down where the backplate is, so you might be right that the backplate isn't quite tight enough showing up more when she's warm...need to make a tool to do that as the Mrs won't appreciate me using the end of a dessert spoon again..(handle end).. Hope to get there with it as I do like engine messing..

Edited By extra slim on 06/09/2016 17:55:21

Edited By extra slim on 06/09/2016 17:56:00

06/09/2016 15:47:02

Thanks guys, I've read the article before as it is really good. Tank and fuel are ok as I ran the 2.49 straight after without issue. Interestingly I am going to try the needle out of the 2.49, as it is longer and appears to give a wider range when I blow through it. It might be that the stubby needle when opened up a bit when running just isn't fine enough and makes it too rich to continue running...its behaviour is very much on or off. I'll try and get some vids. Thanks again

06/09/2016 12:20:58

Hi guys, I am having a bit of a diesel period and have picked up a couple of PAW's. The 2.49 is great and runs well. My recently acquired 1.49 early one, appears very new, and taking off the back plate, reveals a nice tidy inside, with no play on the conrod etc.. no scratches on mounting holes etc.

When it came, it had a silencer fitted, and was tricky to get running, but when it did, got hot and stopped. On taking the silencer off, I noticed the liner was put in wrong, and so the venting to the silencer was blocked off a few degrees. I removed the silencer altogether, and got it running, but it was a real pig, and had to resort (cover you ears) to a starter (carefully). Once running it is really quite nice, but starting hot and cold, is incredibly hit and miss, and frustrating.

I have taken the spray bar out and ensured the single hole is facing down, the needle on it appears to have a pretty short taper, and when running, it is only really 1/4 to half a turn open. and adjustment is very sensitive.. and it is prone to flooding quite easily.. which I guess it would with a stubby needle.

I'm thinking I need a new needle for sure, but that wouldnt really explain the unusual behaviour. I have hand started it a few times since, but then struggled and resorted to starter again.

It is running hot, and hot starts with compression backed off just dont work.

I cant imagine it is worn out as it looks to have done next to no running. Is what I am describing, a "new engine" kind of behaviour?, is the piston now lapping in to a new position, now I have turned the liner to the right position?.

Also, running an 8x4, but perhaps a larger diameter prop may help me..

Any ideas, suggestions welcome.

Thread: Forum members' new models: Let's see them.
19/08/2016 19:33:40

Genius!!.. If it doesnt fly it will make a nice lampshade!!enlightenedwin win

Thread: long unused glows
18/08/2016 18:42:07

Hahaa.. Great stories...engine doc, you are right about wd... I have found there is something very relaxing in having an engine in the garage to flick when pondering build conundrums...kind of helps me into the zone...quite zen like... Hahaa... I have a real poppy little old cox 0.49 just lying about... My favourite object of flickery...it is responsible for many eureka moments... I know.. I am one very sad man ...hehehe

18/08/2016 09:39:47

hahaaa... nice recipe David... get you on engine bake off!!..

Thread: Gugnunc
17/08/2016 21:32:14

Google G-AACN... There is a bit on wiki, but granted not that much

Edited By extra slim on 17/08/2016 21:35:13

Thread: long unused glows
17/08/2016 16:21:18

squirt in and around a load of Wd40 or similar, stick a prop on it.... then heat it gently with a heat gun, holding it in a glove or tea towel, then rock the prop a bit, back and forth, or stick it in the oven for a bit, pull it out, stick the prop on and do the same, once it has moved a bit, more Wd and more heat, I didnt try and do it in one hit, just a bit at a time.... did loads of engines just before christmas I was bequeathed, and got them all freed up, cleaned up and running including an FP40. You can also, strip bits off, like carb and head and backplate, to make getting the WD/oil in easier... just how I did it... but heat is the key, as the fuel in those days was heavily castor based. Good news in my case, was that castor if great at preserving the inner gubbings, and so bearing and conditions after freeing off was really good. Ran them on modern fuel, and after about half a tank of a smokey run, the modern fuels, tended to "self clean". Carb's tend to need a strip, or at least the needles and jets clearing out with a different method, as usually, small O rings on them, which dont like alot of heat, or things like thinners..syringes are good at forcing fuel or cleaning fluid through jets etc, but often there is congeled castor at the end of the needles. good luck bud

Edited By extra slim on 17/08/2016 16:24:12

Thread: Caption Competition!
16/08/2016 09:36:07

He said he had a new bird with two wings to show me... haahhaa very funny... we'll see how funny it is when I take a dump in that pile of saw dust in his workshop!.

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