Here is a list of all the postings extra slim has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Christmas Caption Competition!|
The man in red shirt with walkie (obvious BMFA official)... "I heard there was an incident to investigate... can you start by telling me, exactly where it happened?"..... durrrhhhhh...
|Thread: Lipos have no power|
Thanks Martin, so if I put my pack on my charger and measure IR, as the Nimh pack is 5 cell, if the IR is 250 milliohms of less (250/5 = 50) then it should be fine?, OK... what if it is 70milliohms, or 100.... where do I draw the line??... I suspect many people are happily flying with Nimh packs unaware of IR rating, and suspect, that the IR's are probably higher than the 50... I'm looking looking for a cutoff figure, since I can measure it..something basic, like, IF IR >65 milliohms per cell, but < 80, dont use of him drain applications, i.e. multiple digi servos, but OK for analogue 4 servos, but IF > 80milliohns..=. bin
As oldgit requested, my charger measures IR, but by looking online I could not find any form or equation to bring meaningful practical decisions to a reading. I recently was given an aircraft from the old man to give it some air, has a 5 cell nimh rx pack in it which hasnt been used for a year or so, 2600mah... what is OK, what isnt?.. On this thread people mention IR must be below 20milli ohmns per cell, but is that the same for 1000mah and a 8000mah pack???.. It appears to be a black art... but I'm sure it cant be that difficult..
|Thread: Dave Smith Models|
Maybe not Mr Nut, ...you may be right.... However FYI, I think you will find they did a 69" Aerostar..
Looks aerostar 69 to me, at a push excelsior 177...nice looking model.. how much does it weigh?
|Thread: Easy Star II|
Used an Easy star 1 in early days of FPV... heated up the wings and lent on them to flatten, and cut ailerons into them myself with servos on either one, so I could use a bit of flaperon when required with a mix. Me and a mate did each of ours and they were good. The foam "pattern" grew a little where heated, but they were fine.
|Thread: Dual Rates on DX6|
had exact same issue with a new blokes DX6 on our field. I have owned loads of TX's over 30 years and never had a problem. The curve box and those silly little boxes at the bottom are totally confusing. I will go back to it this weekend, but the only thing I can think of is that with the curve set at one position, I selected the wrong "little box" at the bottom, thus cancelling each other out.... barmy screen if you ask me..
|Thread: Smoke System?|
although this doesn't seem too bad..
Hheehee... Two main types... Pump based squirting smoke oil or diesel into the exhaust via a smoke nipple. You can get cheap dle30cc pre nippled silencers but they will be as loud as the standard tin cans you get with them...I guess the most well known brand is the sullivan sky writer..many have had good results, others have had problems.. The guys at gas hanger was selling one, with the pump powered by a brushless motor, so the on/off and amount of oil squirted was controlled via an ESC into a spare radio channel..but pretty much all are controllable... You usually set them on the side levers on your tranny so you can control it proportionately, as there is no point gunning loads of oil into the exhaust at tick over!!.. The other type is basically a firework, or more like those smoke sticks they shove up chimneys when trying to see where a leak is...you wedge a fuse up it, and have the two wires going via a switch linked to rx channel to a spare battery which basically shorts it and ignites the match heads on the end of the fuse.. You can get them rated at time of burn, all different colours but the last time I looked I thought they were expensive?.. Think it was robotbirds who sold them, but that was a while ago....there must be cheaper alternatives by now, or homemade equivalents..
Edited By extra slim on 21/10/2016 21:58:16
|Thread: Model to throw and go|
Have a goose at RC Factory stuff from lecky wingman, like a flash, oh and also crack beaver same place...good models
|Thread: New member to this site, confused re buddy box flying|
Mr B is right and your dealer wants shooting. Your new set would have "seen" your neighbours set as a slave and would have worked perfectly. No need to have upgraded. It kind of sees the slave as another rx and links.. So frustrating that the dealer didn't explain this..
|Thread: How windy is too windy?|
the wind itself is another factor (I know but bear with me).. I find summer stiff winds very bumpy with turbulent rollers often low down trying to catch you out when landing, but other times of year despite being breezy, it can actually be a smooth wind..
I dont understand the boom in lightweight electric stuff in the UK when our weather is conversely suited. I have all sorts of models, and keep a log, and the ones flown least are the lightweight 3D stuff, as light wind days are few and far between. Yes they will fly fine in a wind, but it turns into a battle and point proving rather than enjoying what they were designed to be good at.
40-60 size nitros with some inertia seem to be better suited to my situation of when I can fly and the weather I am experiencing.
|Thread: going back to glow|
Yep, Simons post resonates with me as well, well said that man. Given I think it is a view many would not argue with it does seem strange that the middle tier glow size model availability and range is drying up. Loads of small electrics, a plethora of petrol 30cc and above but dwindling numbers of glow seemingly. I've gone back to old designs off plans and am enjoying it immensely.
|Thread: What denotes scale|
according to the wiki definition, you could have a scale model of a stand off scale model ...errr...yeah..errr..
I view it as
someat the same as someat else and usually smaller = scale
someat which looks like someat else and usually smaller = stand off scale
|Thread: An old leopard can change his spots|
Good for you mate, must admit, I only use the starter on the first start of the day on my petrols as I dont fly them every week, they become dry in the carb diaphram... It is a bit of a pain hand flicking that first one of the day usually, so I cheat, and stick the starter back in the car afterwards and then hand start for the rest of the day, not needing choke. My routine is to fuel up, choke on and 3 flips, then assemble the model and do checks, leaving carb to wet up before banging the starter on for that first one. Never like just hammering the start on with a dry carb.. probably doesnt matter, but just doesnt sit right with me.
Try not to be tempted by choking for future starts during the day if it takes more than 5-10 flips, as flooded petrols are a complete pain... plug out etc....You were probably fine, as if they are flown regularly they tend to not dry out so much..
|Thread: going back to glow|
Keep it down guys... you are ruining my auction site bargains
Seriously though I find variety is the box ticker for me... I have bottles of electrons, cans of petrol, and tubs of methanol, and even recently got the old fella to mix me up some dirty diesel.. and dug out his old control liners and PAW's to teach myself the art of the compression engine..(err still learning as each one seems to have its "personality". culminated in running up dads Mills 2.4 last weekend... 60 years after its last run... complete wow factor for me..
|Thread: Dang it! My J'EN starter has packed up|
hobbystores.co.uk seem to have the large one, but I am hoping it is a misprint as it is £47.99!!!.. errr.. like... err.. what??!!!!!
|Thread: I've Got to Admit It's Getting Better|
Compared to the american mag I have been getting for years, it has been a complete role reversal with the american mag, becoming more of a leaflet and RCME becoming a really good read and excellent value for money.
|Thread: Multi bolt prop what do you do?|
That is a diligent process to be proud of my friend and wholly sensible... I may well be tempted to edit my post/preflight routine to accommodate it, as after all, if the whirly thing on the front has an issue, it is usually downhill / nose down after that!!..
my method is... drill out centre 10mm... use double sided tape on supplied prop washer, put 10mm bolt through centre, clamping taped washer onto prop... drill first 4mm hole very carefully and slowly with a sharp drill, then drop a 4mm bolt in it to stop it moving, before doing the others. Dropping a bolt in each one as I go.... done quite a few and it works fine...
I agree in changing the bolts to decent high tensile ones, and I did mess about with 45 degree holes conscious of stresses along the blade, but simply couldnt get the prop in a decent hand start position, so opted for the way seen here, and in a good few years it has been fine.
One thing not mentioned, is.. given it is wood, I have found that they become slack(er) over time, and so need nipping up fairly regularly... threadlock doesnt help this, as it is the wood which seems to compress a little.
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