Here is a list of all the postings extra slim has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Hello from Italy|
Buongiorno Simone... Welcome... I look forward to seeing some aircraft with Piped Rossi 60's...
|Thread: This is how to launch you glider|
Brilliant.. I may be wrong, but something tells me that the hatching of this plan involved a late night and alcohol!!!
|Thread: Gone,but not forgotten kit mfg|
The old man used to say that ARTC (Almost ready to cover) would have been much better, so you could see all the poor joints, reinforce where you wanted and cover with your own scheme... I think some companies did dabble in this but it looks to have dropped right off..... I guess that is where some of the foam deck, foam wing, sometimes pre built fus (DSM) were leading the way.. way back... !
|Thread: PFM are coming back|
indeed percy, I'll have a rummage at the shows as last year I found loads which appeared to have been old YT International stock being sold off. and picked up quite a few various cowls for a few quid each... one of them fits my current build (DSM Excelsior.. kit for £40 but cowl was missing.. now resolved )... If nothing crops up, that can be fettled to resemble a Tiger Moth one.. then the blue foam it will be!!..
Got bequeathed a skyways hawk moth I think last year.. nicely put together, but no cowl... contacted the model shop mentioned for a cowl... £40+ including postage!!.. I'm not tight but I thought that was stretching it somewhat.. I'll rummage in bargain bins at the shows for something similar... Good range and I believe nice flyers reading on this forum... would be nice to see a run of kits..
|Thread: Identification required|
I've also seen some MDS with gold heads and drivers.. no other markings on it.. probably trying to put lipstick on their pig!!
|Thread: OS 46 FX|
echo Jon's point on the fuel... 'orrible'.. years ago my two strokes seemed to love it instantly, but after a few weeks/months developed lots of hot runs, and my engines started to suffer.. luckily a pal I flew with was developing new fuels (Andy at Opti) so I switched a long time ago to modern formulas.
|Thread: A Very vintage vintage|
truly gutted for you Dave... did it get lightly tossed in the air as I mentioned..??.. mine has a 1.5 diesel at a very blurp blurp setting and it flies great... a 25 revving will hurtle it into the air and cause a chaotic few seconds I would imagine.. back in the day these were of course free flight, and would be glide tested etc, and the engine was to just pull it along as opposed to hurtle it airbourne... would be interested to hear how it met the ground??
|Thread: Death of a Fun-Fly.|
Hi Nigel, I meant for such a critical component of any airframe.. and a very common power source.. I would have imagined a product, which allowed folk to enter in the parameters of their model.. i.e. number and nature of servos.. analogue/digital/ 9g, retract servo, the battery type, and capacity.. and the product would reproduce a simulated example load within +/- parameters.. and give a green or red light!!!..whilst at the same time being able to indicate that if you had a 2600mah Nimh memory or whatever, and IR reading of X would lead to you performing a simulated load or throwing it in the bin or putting it back in the model as it is fine.... we are left to the power of google to try and suss out what's what.. with all manner of opinions... and from my experience.. folk tend to say "arghh thats all too complicated.. I just buy a new one".. which isnt really a full proof method.
what a shame, and a broken wire I guess can happen to all of us.. battery/switch etc..
So much is spoken of Nimh care etc... but as someone has already pointed out, it isnt about cycling, monitoring how much goes back in etc etc... (although these can be useful).. it is about how the battery copes under load.. and other than a fairly basic load checker I'm surprised more hasnt been done in this area.. and also understanding IR.. as many chargers now will give you a reading... but trying to obtain a rule of thumb as to what is too much is nigh on impossible!!..
I'll stick with Life packs and have done for many years now.
|Thread: A Very vintage vintage|
Beautiful Dave.. I think I worked on 30%, but it came out more like 35%.. it flys best at a trundle Dave.. mine has quite a bit of downthrust.. and with the 25 upfront quarter to half throttle is all you need.. full power and it would loop !!.. fantastic job.. stunning little plane... shame we don’t know what it is.. ours is known as the “Billy West”.. after dads uncle who he remembers flying it in 1953.. good luck, I do hope she goes as well as mine.. fingers crossed. I would get it 1/4 throttle and a gentle hand launch..
|Thread: YouTube Video you like|
absolutely hilarious!!.. we need this guy to do a tour of the UK... real fun with friends, what a spirit.
|Thread: which is cheaper,IC or ELECTRIC?|
Good on The Wright Stuff for having a stab with his excel skills, which was bang on topic. Now before I provide my feedback, I fly all manner of IC, Glow, Petrol, Diesel, and electric both fixed wing and occasional rotaries and I really dont think about the costs.
For me the example TWS exposed was useful, but missed a few elements:-
1) Under IC, you need to include plug and throttle servo, engine mount
2) I think your fuel pump and model box, could be £10 each (hand pump, and general tool box), plus an ASP 46 is £66
But... what was glaringly missing from my perspective, was the Lipo's, as you offset the cost of the lipo by a number of flights... but didnt do the same for the IC motor. For me the lipo cost should be above the line based on a flying session, and not just one flight, so is a fixed cost.
What I mean is... to get a good benchmark, take a kit built WOT 4 type plane, and a general flying session of say half a day with 5 flights.. on your electric side of the equation, there would need to be I guess 2 options.. either the cost of 5x 4s 3700 batteries (for a WOT 4).. 3s 2200 wouldnt cut it on a balsa WOT or would maybe get your airbourne for about 2 mins. OR.. just a couple of batteries and the cost of a leisure battery to take to the field to charge one, whilst the other is in use..
In doing this, the results are somewhat different.. Just my conclusion is that based on a flying session, not just one flight, smaller models with smaller batteries are cheaper when electric, but somewhere just short of a WOT4 is where there is a break even, and then above..(5s, 6s etc) more expensive.. obviously equipment varies wildly in costs, so this is broad brush..
Luckily, I dont care about the cost and love all forms
|Thread: How to fill a TE / aileron gap ?|
At this size, and being a trainer, then it isnt a huge problem and you could leave it, but I would be tempted to use a film filling hinge especially if IC as already mentioned above. You only need to do one side unless it is looks you are after. On smaller, electric models I just use cellotape diamond clear, aileron bent up, if doing underside, and credit card it in..
|Thread: Glow Sticks|
I use one of these with a 3s lipo.. variable, lipo, swapped crocs for connectors, relatively cheap.. really no complaints
Edited By extra slim on 29/11/2018 14:10:24
|Thread: A Very vintage vintage|
Hi Dave, the louvres are semi effective, there is nowt under the hood to divert all exhaust, so being honest it does tend to exit from many places around the front being diesel, but certainly some does via the louvres.. all adds to the vintage effect.. twas my old fellas design, so I cant take any credit.. the cowl at the front wasnt on the original and he couldnt remember if it ever had one being a knock off free flight engine originally, so he has done quite a nice improvised job.. which is quite rare for him!!. aesthetics arent usually his bad
fabulous day yesterday, and took the opportunity for lots of flights, with the PAW backed off she is lovely, and flies beautifully.. very satisfying.
|Thread: How old are yours?|
I have quite a few models 20yrs plus, still flying, island hobbies capiche 50, Sigma signs freestyle etc, but the oldest model I am currently flying is approx 65yrs old.. yep.. some may have seen my very vintage vintage thread.. but here she is flying just yesterday..
|Thread: Super tigre carb part|
at virtually every swap meet I've been to, there have always been a few ST carbs knocking about at the bottom of a box of bits of engines usually under the bench, mostly missing the needle as it was protruding and prone to being snapped. Shouldnt be that hard to get one. A few come up on ebay quite regulary.
|Thread: Futaba Receivers - any alternatives ?|
It is an interesting debate indeed and sort of centres on the popular belief by many that price is proportional to quality, and quality is proportional to reliability.
From my own experiences down at the field, for many, the use of a branded rx is for the pilots peace of mind in the event of a mishap/crash.. then they can reassure themselves (possibly defend) that they tried to mitigate the risk by using the best recommended equipment for the job, to protect their investment of time and money, and to minimise any safety failures. I know most people would kick themselves if a rx failure resulted in the destruction of a pride and joy, and the rx was a cheaper version. It kind of would feel more acceptable if it was a branded one if you get what I mean, as it eliminates the "what could I have done differently" question.
This transpires into people mostly using branded gear in their pride and joys, and aircraft which have a perceived higher danger impact in the event of a mishap, whilst at the same time, proportionally using a ‘cheaper alternative’ in a less expensive and less perceived danger aircraft..e.g. foamy. I haven’t seen many reflect consciously on the effectiveness of the equipment, but more of a absolution of proportional blame in the event of failures.
It is not just the rx debate that this type of argument applies, I see many people buy expensive servos, “these are 12kg mate, metal gear, digital”… oh right, but why have you used a cheap clevis, which is connected to a poor horn, mounted onto a flimsy bit of balsa on the tail plane, oh and it’s on a petrol, so why haven’t you used Loctite on the servo arm screw or any of the horn bolts???. One well known supplier used to sell a horn set for larger models for a pretty price, they were cast aluminium cones with a threaded end!!.. yikes.. but they were 50 quid a set and Johnny 3D is using them so they must be good!!.. months later, these were changed to a cone with a steel bolt running through instead… but understanding is the key.. not price.
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