Here is a list of all the postings Mike Blandford has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: FrSky Taranis - user chat|
I've also now posted another "app". This one, called "ChangeId.app" lets you change the physical Id of a FrSky sensor, useful if you need two of the same type of sensor (e.g. FLVSS for more than 6 cells).
In ersky9x firmware I have a "maintenance mode" that provides several features including the ability to flash internal and external XJT modules, change the SPort ID of sensors and flash Multiprotocol modules. Some of these features have been included in openTx, but others have not, and my not get included, or may tak a long time before they do get included.
I've been looking in to this and have a possible solution that doesn't rely on openTx being changed.
My idea is to have an "app" that just does the flashing of a MultiProtocol module, and then others that allow for different functions.
To use such a facility does not require openTx to be modified, just flash an alternative bootloader, then run an app from there to carry out these sorts of functions.
I've just posted a test version of ersky9x (ProvR222a2) (**LINK**) for the Taranis, Taranis Plus and the QX7(s). The bootloader in these has the options of "Flash Firmware" and "Run App". I haven't had the "Restore EEPROM" in my version of the bootloader, so I don't have that available (yet). I'll either add that, or make it another "app"!
|Thread: Who wants a Warbird Replics Hurricane?|
I've been progressing the wing centre section and now have flaps fitted and working and the retracts all glued in and working.
The next step is to attach the outer wing panels. The plan shows 38mm dihedral under each tip (not quite sure exactly where this is measured, the absolute end of the balsa block or the end of the veneered part). The instructions say the outer panels are already made to give the dihedral, but when I "dry fit" them I get very little dihedral. It looks like I shall need to sane the root of the outer panels to fix this.
|Thread: S6R & S8R Receivers|
I find flying with auot-level on very odd since it tends to fight any control input you apply. For example, normally, when you apply aileron to bank the model, when you reach the required bank angle you centralise the aileron (you don't want to roll!). As the model turns, with the 'outside' wing moving faster than the 'inside' wing, the model may try to increase the bank angle, so you end up applying a small amount of 'opposite' aileron to hold the bank angle.
With auto-level, you have to hold the aileron on to hold the bank angle.
Up until now I've set auto-level on a switch so it only acts for 1.5 seconds, long enough to get the model level, but then revert to stabilise mode.
Next time I fly, I've set auto-level up so it only operates as long as the aileron and elevator are both centered. As sonn as any control input is applied, auto-level switches off.
Yes, as it says under "SportSet(9).zip":
Usually that is caused by the self-check having been run when channel 5 wasn't being driven, so the Rx has "remembered" zero movement. Try running the self-check again, and re-calibrating the servo limits.
I agree, I can't see why "Panic Mode" is needed!
Since the SportSet program runs on the PC, it works for all transmitters!
Regarding the missing boxes, where is your TaskBar? Someone with this problem had their TaskBar at the top, moving it to the bottom fised the problem! I just checked V1.8.1 of SXRConfig (version shows in the window heading), and this works correctly even with the TaskBar at the top.
As I understand it, Panic Mode is self-level.
I've written an alternative program for the PC and STK called "SportSet", I've posted it here: **LINK**
I'm trying to remember/find the fix for the missing boxes on the FrSky config program. It's a setting somewhere!
Recent firmware has "Quick Mode" (the default) that does what you describe. You may, however, turn "Quick Mode" off, when the software beahves as before with "Hover" and "Knife Edge" available.
After running the "Self Check" (blue LED on) and calibrating the servo throws, moving the throttle has NO effect. The Rx will continue to look for any increase in the maximum servo movement allowed until you power the Rx off.
The current manual is quite good, I got FrSky (when then asked me for comments on the manual) to include quite a lot of details and warnings (e.g. don't have rates active when calibrating servo throws) in it.
|Thread: And now for something completely different|
Any possibility of putting the bolt through in the opposite direction?
Both er9x/ersky9x and openTx have a "Heli" menu (unless with openTx you have selected "No Heli", where you select the "120" swash option (off, 120, 120X, 140 and 90 are available).
The rest think its ternary!
|Thread: FrSky X10 - Taranis replacement?|
I assume you have checked the contrast setting in the radio setup hasn't changed.
|Thread: Super Star|
Should fly well. The model in my avatar is a scaled down Super Star in general arrangement (54" span), for electric power. It just goes where I point it. Originally it used 12, 3000mAh NiMh cells, and flew well on 400W. It now uses a 4 cell, 3000mAh LiPo and has 600W, while being 12oz lighter.
|Thread: What are the rules?|
6 cubed is 216, so volume is reduced by this factor. Assuming the build is using identical materials, 3022kg reduces to 13.9kg (not 139kg).
|Thread: Proposed new drone legislation/registration|
For information, the club field I fly from actually does have a NOTAM that specifies "large model aircraft" are flown from it up to a height of 1900 feet above mean sea level. Our field is between 100 and 110 m (328 to 361 feet) high according to the OS map contours. So currently, we may fly up to around 1500 feet above the field.
Personally I have had an electric thermal glider as high as 1200 feet, at which point it was becoming a bit difficult to see (7'4" span). Normally I don't go over about 1000 feet, but that day I hooked a very strong thermal. I needed a prolonged spiral dive to get it down to 800 feet, and when I stopped diving it shot back up and I needed another spiral dive to get it back down again.
I seldom find any thermal activity below 400 feet.
|Thread: WOT4 Becomes Racing Car|
I'll ask a silly question - You were trying to take off into wind, not downwind?
No thanks, done that in the past calculating MTBF values for electronic circuits and systems! Fortunately my wife (also a mathematician) did a lot of the work, for the first one, as I was busy programming on another project at the same time.
Ok, so for two sets of connectors, I reckon you only need:
M1-F2 ( = F2-M1)
If you want M1-M1, use M1-F2 and M2-M1
So, every time you add another connector style, you need just 4 adapters to the first original connector style, then chain using the existing adapters to other styles.
If you then want, say, F3-M2, use F3-F1 and M1-M2.
If you have N connector types (N>=2), you need just 4(N-1) adapters.
I think you have too many! For two sets of connectors I reckon you have:
So 16 permutations from your first term [(2 x N)^2], Those I've marked with (*) are the ones you don't need from your second term [2 x N], but the ones I've marked with (!) are repeats, just wired to "other" way round (M1-M2 and M2-M1 are the same adaptor).
Rather than have adapters from everything to everything, why not just have the connectors with a couple of wires (colour coded and with tinned ends). Then, get what I call a "chocolate block" screw terminal block for connecting wires together. When you need an adapter, just get the two connectors (with their wires), put the wires from one into one side of the block and those from the other connector into the other side.
Then you have, almost immediately, any adapter you require.
I use this method, or an electronics, plug in, breadboard, to make all sorts of adapters as required. Just occasionally, when I find I need a particular adapter frequently, I will make up a dedicated one.
I make it that if you have 10 different, 2-way connectors, each in male and female, you would need 90 adapters, with my suggestion, you need just 20 connectors with wires. Using several "chocolate blocks" you could leave commonly used adapters made up, but quickly change if needed.
Edited By Mike Blandford on 28/01/2018 23:01:42
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