Here is a list of all the postings Mike Blandford has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Lipo Battery Storage|
A reason not to store fully charged is "fully charged" depends on temperature. A battery that is fully charged at one temperature becomes over charged at another (I think lower?) temperature.
I store my batteries at storage charge, which is 3.8V per cell according to my chargers. I usually take a charger ti the field with me, so after using a battery, unless I need to recharge it, I put it on storage charge, which usually doesn't take long.
|Thread: Battle of Britain Day|
I think he is asking why the "other" thread is titled "Battle of Battle" not "Battle of Britain", with an aside as though from the Polish pilots (in the BoB film) requesting "Repeat Please" as they peel off one by one to engage "bandits".
|Thread: Lipo charging|
Dave, that is exactly the circuit I expected.VT13, VD4 and L1 form a buck (step down) switch mode regulator, while VT15, VD5 and L1 for a boost (step up) switch mode regulator.
The chargers I have use the inductor in both buck and boost modes, converting the supply voltage to that required to charge the battery. They operate using the charge current to regulate the output voltage that is controlled by the PWM mark-space ratio. The PWM frequency used is sufficiently high that the inductor, with the associated output capacitor, produces quite a constant voltage/current, in the same way any switch mode power supply works.
|Thread: What gauge wire|
A bit difficult to see exactly what those waveforms are showing, and they don't look much like the ones I got on my digital storage 'scope, where I could capture and "freeze" them.
The ESC outputs are square wave voltage, and the non-driven wire shows a sinusoidal feedback voltage. The current is likely to be reasonably constant as the inductance of the motor tries to keep the current flowing, and the parasitic diodes in the MOSFETs provide a current path.
The motor, as you have said, includes inductance, in the same way a switch mode power supply uses an inductor. When operating a switch mode power supply in step down mode, the current in the output may be higher than the current in the input, the power in each is the same (except for losses). The same can happen with a brushless motor.
I've just put my 'scope on the wires to a motor. The pwm frequency remained fixed. The outputs to the motor followed a sequence of 6 "phases".
"A" at supply voltage, "B" pulsing low, "C" not driven.
On the wire that is not driven, you can see a sine wave, which is the induced voltage in the undriven winding.
(OK, a sample of size 1)
This is as I described.
BTW Kirchoff;s law is for a "node" not a circuit.
"the output current can never exceed input current" No, but there are capacitors on the ESC input that provide the "extra" current for the current pulses.
"Outrunner motors are essentially three phase ac motors" No, they are DC motors with electronic commutation.
The ESC connects one of the three motor wires to the positive supply, a second to the negative supply and reads the induced voltage on the third wire to time the commutation.
Yes, the inductance will limit the current rise, but actually sufficiently slowly that the current is essentially constant.
"you never have all of the current in one leg being opposed by an equal and opposite current in another" Yes you do as it is a DC motor, I just described how the commutation is done.
"how thick are the wires that form the winding?" About the same thickness as the wires from the ESC. You may look at the windings and see quite thin enammelled wires, but, for ease of winding and to get more copper in place, the windings are made of multiple, parallel thin wires.
|Thread: Horus X10S with Spektrum receivers|
The "patch" is actually to flash the multiprotocol firmware to the module. I created the changes to the multiprotocol firmware so it compiles and runs on the Orange module.
Instructions are available here: **LINK**
The power output may be adjusted in the multiprotocol firmware, the default is +4dbm from the RF chip, then amplified by power amplifier. The RF chip may be set to 0dbm if required.
With the bootloader on the module, you are ablue to then flashit using a FTDI type device, and on sme transmitters you may flash directly from the Tx using a file on the SD card. At present the X10(S) is not one of those as I've not got one so haven't ported ersky9x to it. On transmitters that do run ersky9x, I have added a feature to the Tx bootloader that lets you run an "app". If you are running openTx, you may replace the bootloader with the one from ersky9x, then you get this feature. One of the "apps" available is the one to flash the multiprotocol module.
|Thread: What gauge wire|
I'm not sure I agree with this!
Suppose that at full throttle you have 30A in the input wiring.
Yes, the average current in each wire is less, but the current, when it does flow is the same as in the input wiring.
Now suppose you reduce the throttle to have only 15A in the input wiring. The ESC has done this by only driving the output for part of the time. I think you will find you actually have 30A out on A and 30A in on B, but for only half of the first third of the time, and similarly for the other 2 thirds of the time. So the output wires are actually carrying more current than the input wires!
|Thread: Horus X10S with Spektrum receivers|
The openTx team are NOT supporting this Tx. The firmware on it has been forked from openTx 2.2, then has a few small changes applied to it. The hardware is a (cut down) copy of the FrSky QX7, with the rotary encoder replaced by buttons, so is running a near copy of the QX7 firmware. The firmware will have been compiled with whatever options Jumper have chosen, you don't get to choose as you do when downloading "official" openTx.
Basically, it seems, Jumper are simply copying the QX7 and the multi-protocol project, both of which support open source firmware. The T12 doesn't add anything that existing radios don't already do.
From a post of mine on RCGroups:
"The patch to openTx is very simplistic, and doesn't have all the conditional compilation needed for the T12 to become another supported Tx. Much more would need to be done, including adding support in Companion, for proper support.
The 4-in-1 module included uses the USB port with a USB-to-serial chip inside. This means the USB bootloader doesn't work. The module also has the incorrect chip for the serial inversion (00 instead of 86). This means it only works with inverted serial, and the "Flash from Tx" method has to use inverted serial."
The firmware is likely to be confusing as it includes support for things that are not present, e.g. settings for an internal RF module and haptic.
I do have ersky9x ported to this radio, and will be supporting it, but, as I did with the Turnigy 9XR-PRO, support for the FrSky 'X' receivers and SPort telemetry is disabled unless Jumper reach an agreement with FrSky that these may be included.
From another post of mine on RCGroups:
"A general comment regarding the multi-protocol module. Transmitters use a "unique ID" that is used when binding. Manufacturers produce their own transmitters so that this is unique to each Tx.
Edited By Mike Blandford on 08/09/2018 20:17:31
Yes, but as I said, you may find you cannot select the D8 protocol, particularly on an internal module in a FrSky transmitter.
I think that is incorrect. The XJT supports 'D' and V-II" receivers whether it has EU LBT firmware or international firmware, I just double checked by binding a LBT XJT to a D8R-II.
Where there may be a confusion is on FrSky transmitters running openTx (and possibly FrOS), if the Tx itself (not the module) has EU firmware, then the 'D' option is not available for selection in the menus.
You need to link the channel 1 and 2 outputs of the Rx, then power it on. I think the LEDs should not be flashing at this stage.
Now power both Tx and Rx off, then back on, you should then have control.
|Thread: See if you can help me with this|
For now, you shouldn't need to undo the grub screws. At the "other" end of the motor you should see a circlip. Just remove this, then the whole "bell" and shaft should slide out. Because the magnets are very strong, you will need to pull quite hard. Be careful when replacing the bell and shaft, the magnets pull everything together very firmly, make sure fingers etc. cannot be trapped.
I disagree regarding to using the motor power rating. You should use the motor CURRENT rating as the limit. Regardless of the voltage, the heat generated in the motor is current squared times the winding resistance. Exceed the current rating and the motor will overheat.
An electric motor is driven by the current, not the voltage. A larger prop needs more current then a smaller one at the same RPM.
Giving a motor a voltage specification is a bit arbitrary, it is the current that really matters, in particular the maximum current. If you are using a 3S battery, and are at the maximum allowed current, then going to a 4S battery requires you to fit a smaller prop to keep the current at that value, however, since power is voltage times current, you will have more power.
When a motor rotates, it acts as a generator (its called an alternator in your car!). Specifically, if say the kv of a motor is 900, then it means if it rotates at 900 RPM, it generates 1 volt. This happens even if the cause of the motor rotating is a battery. So, if you apply 10 volts to this motor, it will rotate at 9000 RPM (with no load). In practice there are some losses so the motor will rotate a bit slower. If you put a load on (fit a prop), the motor will then run slower.
|Thread: Please Help Me Out With The Arithmetic On This One Gentlemen!|
The limiter, according to the rules I just read, is set for 1750W-mins, so that 40 second power was running at around 2.6kW. On 10 cells, this is 75A, and less than 1Ah. I note that F5B people mention they are sometimes running at 100C discharge rate, and using pre-heated batteries (to reduce internal resistance).
I tried to find some data on the specified motor, but it has been supersceded by a PO-3547-800. That motor is specified as having a maximum current of 29A continuous (36A peak for 10 seconds).
The original question described a flight of 2 minutes cruising followed by 4 minutes of full power, after which the battery (2200 mAh) was "flat".
Such a battery could (theoretically) provide 2.2A for 60 minutes, which is only 33A for 4 minutes, so I reckon the motor is only taking around 25 to 28A (at full throttle), which would be appropriate for the specification of the replacement available. The Ammeter the OP shows could, at least, give an indication if this is what is happening in practice.
Personally, I doubt the motor is really an 800W motor, other purple power motors of the same size, but different winds, have ratings of 710W and 580W. I would also suspect these ratings are at the peak current specified, so are only for 10 seconds anyway.
My take is the OP needs full power for 5 minutes, and, perhaps 4 minutes at "cruising" power. I'd estimate cruising power would be around 10A (from my telemetry log files where I have flight pack voltage and current logged).
4minutes at 10A is 40 Amp-minutes. 5 minutes at 25A is 125 Amp-minutes, a total of 165 Amp-minutes. 265/60 gives 2.75 Ah so a battery of 2800 mAh should be OK, I'd use 3000 or 3300mAh as the higher capacity may well have a lower internal resistance, so providing a higher voltage (and hence higher current) at full throttle.
I would also recommend checking what the maximum current rating of the motor actually is.
|Thread: Power Safe for any receiver|
Try these (should be available with different number of connections) **LINK**
Preci-Dip part 801-87-036-10-001101 is a 36 way version where you may "snap off" however many connectors you need. Clearly, these may be available from elsewhere (found them at Digikey as well as Farnell).
I measured the (square) pins on a FrSky Rx (X8R) as 0.6mm (digital caliper), and the pdf file for these shows 0.635 as the square pin size that fits. For round pins it shows 0.7mm to 0.9mm. 0.635mm square is 0.898mm across the diagonal, so I reckon a 0.5mm square pin (diagonal 0.7mm) would also fit, so should be fine for 0.6mm.
Edited By Mike Blandford on 19/08/2018 13:19:35
It was aimed more at BEB!
Want the latest issue of RCM&E? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!