Here is a list of all the postings Roger Marshall has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Flair Bristol F2B Fighter Biplane|
I did get a chance to check out the last place I found to do copying, the shop is quite close to me but I only managed time for phone enquiries. The good news is they can do copys of A0 sizes at £7.50 each and A1 size is £7.00 each, as a while you wait service. Had to be the last place I tried I suppose!! I should be able to make a visit sometime this coming week before he closes for the holidays, or the new year even. So something reasonably easy could be sorted, for example, if you ring ahead and pay for the copying you require I could then take the plan there to copy. It may be possible for them to post to you direct, I forgot to ask that, or you could still collect from me in January.
So the problem is looking a bit easier to sort now. Happy days!
I did wonder if the prices you were paying had something to do "mates rates" and certainly don't have any options like that myself. I haven't given up just yet and have expanded my search a little. oddly enough the inclusion of the word "digital" in my seaches has shown one more place to try that do photocopies of the sizes required so I'll enquire this week.
Also, my kit does contain the main undercarriage and these are straight forward to photocopy or bend to pattern from 8swg and 10swg piano wire respectively.
I;ve got no plans to travel to Yorkshire, or anywhere close even, so can't help there! Sorry!
Just to let you know l didn't give up on this, l've been checking on what printing services l can get locally. The answer is quite limited, only 2 places are able to produce A0 or A1 size prints. One quoted £15.00 for A0 and £7.50 for A1 sizes, the other quoted £26.00 for a single A0 print and £15.00 for A1.
The real issue is that both would require a digital file from which to print from, can't actually remember the file format required. Getting a suitable file becomes a bigger problem.
It would seem that l can only get straight A3 to A3, A4 to A4 size copies. Any copies or part copies of the larger plan sheets just don't seem to be obtainable, around here anyway.
Simply put, l've run out of local printers to try. I could widen my search but l bet that will show the same result or bring up different problems to think about. Just not as optimistic as l was!
|Thread: A new caption competition - winner declared!|
It came out and grabbed it "Jus' like that"
|Thread: Flair Bristol F2B Fighter Biplane|
Ok Bruce my mistake l found the build log on another site and its here: rcgroups.com Bristol F2B Build... Worth seeing if you haven't already. Roger
Hi Bruce, l just took a look at your photos and it seems 1 disappeared, 4 became 3 suddenly. Surely l couldn't cause that just browsing could l? Its good to see your model is quite complete and in reasonable condition.
l thought the build log was on this site, a long way back l think. I'll browse around and see if l can jog my memory and find it myself then let you know.
Very nice model David, looks detailed and relistic, and impressive, I wasn't able to play the video though, which is a shame its great you have a lovely model and get to fly and enjoy it. The BE2e was meant to fly as a stable aircraft and the results are well documented. The Bristol F2b was meant as a relacement for such 2 seaters with a view that they would be able to look after themselves much better. Again very well documented. Just a small part of aviation at war.
I've loaded some more photos into the album, same iffy images I have to say. My phone camera is getting more differcult to use as it switches into and out off different modes as I'm trying to use it. Thats how it is for the moment! When veiwing the album itself, I can't get a good image to view, but when selecting photos from the post itself the image is better. Is there a reason for this? Are the images any good, from the album when veiwed by others?
I'll post a few here anyway.
Bruce, you're wellcome to visit of course sometime in the future should it be required, I'm hoping to help you avoid such a situation, and get your project working easier than that.
Bad news first, is that the very sheet that you and I need to build wings on, is in fact in the worst condition of all! As yet "unused" to build wings on, it may have served as a cover for the workbench when building other parts! Sheet 11 is the one question, glue spillage, coffee stains as well as the expected creases, folds, tears and tatty edges. For me at least, perfectly fixable and usable. A good quality unmarked copy is not what it will produce. A usable copy is possible though, I think, so not a total waste for copying. The issue is then where to get a copy form, as yet I haven't looked at any local printers for this. This is A0 size, I believe, £1.00 a copy seems a bit optomistic to me locally, but fingers crossed I'm wrong.
You mentioned undercarrage and the rear tailskid is shown on the plan actual size built from tubing stock, the main undercarrage is from prebent wire is shown by diagram for assembly, not sure if mine is present, but if it is, easy to bend one the same.
Take a look through and let me know what you think, the A4s and A3s are not a problem, I know l'll be able to sort them.
My models fuselage is at about sheet 5 and 6, with the tailset also built from 7, a long way to go and not expected to start until next year, again fingers crossed. I was thinking of getting my model out for some more photos but, l need a a different camera maybe. Long time since l last rummaged through the box, l need a refresh!
Mine came with a TT 91fs and the engine bearers are spaced for this motor. Yours may be spaced for the OS series of engines and if so, you will have plenty choice.
This is about where l'm at from a starting point of veiw
A bit of the horrible bit...
And a couple to browse...
Regards to all
Bit of a nervy takeoff and climb out in the video above don't you think?
I've taken a whole load of photos of the plans I have and have to say a dissapointing effort, the number of good photos is quite small, most being just readable. A few in the album to start with... Will try again and hopefully do better. This is what the whole set looks like anyway.
I'm not doing any model building at the moment, my projects have stalled for the time being, so will help the best I can, so you get your Bristol built. I've not done any work on mine, its just as I got it. So I've got no build experience with this kit. I have a built fuselage and tail set only, the box is full wood which I believe is all present, not so the hardware, most important the plans are present and usable.
To answer your questions and queries its best to start at the bottom and work up...
Its not that I don't trust you or the PO... I'm just very reluctant to part with the plans in such a way.
I live on the east coast of Suffolk, your welcome to pop round and take some time going over them! Assuming thats not going to be convenient any time soon, I'll check out local printers and see whats available now, the last time I tried It wasn't very fruitful, so hence more experience with tiling from smaller copies.
If you have a built tailset, wings and fuselage, you surely don't need all of the plan set anyway do you? If you can be specific about what plan sheets are vital we could perhaps concentrate on those, and they are more likely to be simpler copy jobs. This weekend I'll get the lot out and blow the dust off and get some photos and build an album, if l can get descent enough photos you may be able see for yourself what's vital or not. We know the whole story best though when its all there in front of you, so the parts and contents would be in the first pages and that is the place to start isn't it! Will tell you a lot to kick off with. What do you think? I hope l can help somehow with your build project, the Bristol F2B is worthy subject if ever there was one! there is a build log posted on here which is really good, l haven't viewed it in a while but you must check it out if you haven't already.
Have you got a motor yet and what is it? What ideas do you have about the build that you may need to change to suit your requirements? Its a big model with lots off rigging up at the field, something I've not had the pleasure off in any way, but story and opinions are out there and worth searching out.
Will sort those photos and let you see.
Bye for now Roger
I also have a part built Flair F2B for the future.
A shame nobody has replied to your post, maybe here’s why.
I have the plan set and instructions and can tell you consist of no less than 20 sheets. About 6 of them are A4 size double sided with building advice and parts list, about 14 are A3 size showing layout, part numbers and build instructions, 1 is 4 x A3 size and 1 is 8 x A3 size for building on. So about 30+ A3 size copies.
A4 and A3 copies are OK but getting large whole plans over the copier to get flat useable copies with enough overlap for tiling purposes can be quite a chore, so all in quite a job! Do you have any of the sheet plans at all?
What other bits are missing?? Most of the wood and hardware would be easy enough to source and replace, using templates on the plan, but the inner cabane struts are prebent alloy strips and there’s no template on the plan that I remember of, so hope they are not missing.
How much of the model is already built? It could make a huge difference.
If the fuselage is done the cabane struts should already be fitted, as well as the linkage to operate the elevators.
This is about the stage of build my model’s at, and as this kit I have has been badly robbed I don’t know what problems I’ll come across when resuming the build in the future.
I don’t want to dampen your enthusiasm, just letting you know how it could be.
I suggest you keep this post active, and see if somebody responds. i.e. don’t let it disappear in the forum post catalogue for people to accidentally find like I did.
Best of luck
|Thread: Ebay sellers...|
A new modeling acronym
Crashed Ready To Burn
|Thread: Solartex Linen and Oratex Antique - colour comparison|
With hindsight I wish I used linen to cover the wings, as you say the D section LE is obvious, It didn`t occur to me at the time. It was never meant to be scale so there`s no wire rigging to support the wings.
It is a shame Solartex has gone. I`ve not seen any mention anywhere as to why?
The middle colour of the lower photo is...
And looks more yellow than the photo suggests.
Solartex antique on a model looks likes this...
I would imagine that Solartex linen would look the same but without seeing the ribs.
I`m now thinking that Oratex natural is white and opaque, and Oratex white is solid colour.
Finally able to add photos showing the sutble differences of Solartex and Oratex antigue covering.
The reason that the coverings look different in photos on the net is, the backing materials of the different products, ie Solartex has a transparent film backing and Oratex has a glossy white paper backing. This makes comparing colours by photos very difficult, light also plays a very big part as well. I took many photos and they were very hard to tell apart in many of them. From 20 or so photos only 3 were able to demonstrate the colours effectively.
I also leant that the Solartex antigue and linen colours are much closer than I first thought. The now obvious difference is that antigue is opaque, you can see the structure beneath it, and linen is solid colour and no structure is visible through it.
The Oratex antigue is the lightest colour of them all, I`m now sure that my model above is covered with Oratex antigue. Laying them all out together on the same structure was the the only real way of being sure.
Hard to see which is which like this...
This is easier to show, Solartex antigue is on the left, Oratex antigue next, both opaque, then Solartex linen on the right, solid colour.
So I hope this helps identify the covering you`re dealing with.
|Thread: Fire extinguishers|
Reading my post I clearly got it wrong... I should have stated Not only by the door but the opposite end as well.
Its fairly common knowledge to have extinguishers by the point of exit in all work places and buildings. My point being is not to be trapped the wrong side of a fire and have no way to get to the exit. The emphasis should always be get out and stay out...
Something missed here is Not to have your extinquisher/s and fire blanket/s next to the door... They should be at the far end the workshop, opposite end to the door... If the fire breaks out between you and the exit you need to get out and your path is blocked by fire... Fight your way Out...going through the fire to get to the extinquisher next to the door?? Not neccessary if your`re already out... Stay out! Think twice before fighting your way In...
My precious things are in the house!!!
|Thread: Solartex Linen and Oratex Antique - colour comparison|
This is the colour I was trying to match, thought it was yellowish rather than whiteish.
Could be Natural with a coating of something. Will see soon enough!
I have to deal with the very same problem. The covering on the fuselage of a model I am rebuilding was lighter than Solartex Antigue so bought Solatex Linen to cover the wings I built, thinking is would match, it did not.
So my assumption now is that the model was orignally covered in Oratex Antigue, if that assumption is correct, then none of these tex coverings colour match.
I could cheat a bit by stripping the fuselage bear, its a Bleriot type model so I could do that, and hope the new material will match the tailplane/ rudder etc. That`s unlikely, new, matching the old coated dirtied material, so have decided the only way to go, and be sure now, is to cover the model with fresh covering material. I do have the advantage of covering the wings and empennage only and leaving the fuselage naked, saving material, for future patching and repairs perhaps.
I won`t be 100% sure on just how close the colours match until the new Oratex Antique gets here.
Of course someone is going to suggest painting! I do know that Humbrol Linen matches Solartex Antigue!
|Thread: Super Tigre 20cc - 30cc engine parts|
Do you have any operational conditions to cater for? Do you live and fly in the UK?
The manual for the older engine, which I believe I have states that 5% - 10% nitro is fine. It seems to be that the oil content for running in and normal use is where it wants the user to pay attention, and care to use a suitable fuel. The later manual for the 325 engine says about the same... except it mentions that 15% nitro is permissable, providing extra care is taken when setting up the mixture in use. What issues have you experienced when using fuels with nitro content?
Shimming the the head to lower the CR isn`t something the average user would go for, especially if its not mentioned in the operators manual.
I do respect your obviously a very big fan and knowledgable user of these engines, and this is my first! The very reason I`m seeking advise here.
Oh joy it`s a runner!
Thanks for all your guidance and input. Finally got to test it!
So, Weston UK Liquid Gold 5% and a PP4T plug also from Weston. " Wet and Hot" in about ten minutes of practice, less than that if you count running backwards!
My old BBQ has now become my new engine test bench!
And the proof it works
From a 12oz tank I got 13 minutes of run time, mostly WOT, setup was easy, just find peak RPM and back the screw out again, to drop the revs. No amount of harsh throttle use from closed to fully open and back again could get it to falter, it was smooth all the way till the fuel run out!
I didn`t get any idle or peak rev readings because my tacho died from a flat battery. Nor did I test it`s restart from hot. Something for next playtime.
I`m on the lookout for a box type of exhaust now. So if you know of the whereabouts of one, please let me know.
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