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Member postings for Roger Marshall

Here is a list of all the postings Roger Marshall has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Solartex Linen and Oratex Antique - colour comparison
09/01/2019 22:10:13

With hindsight I wish I used linen to cover the wings, as you say the D section LE is obvious, It didn`t occur to me at the time. It was never meant to be scale so there`s no wire rigging to support the wings.

It is a shame Solartex has gone. I`ve not seen any mention anywhere as to why?

09/01/2019 21:08:52

The middle colour of the lower photo is...


And looks more yellow than the photo suggests.

Solartex antique on a model looks likes this...

windows photo gallery wallpaper.jpg

I would imagine that Solartex linen would look the same but without seeing the ribs.

I`m now thinking that Oratex natural is white and opaque, and Oratex white is solid colour.

09/01/2019 10:16:33

Hi Graham

Finally able to add photos showing the sutble differences of Solartex and Oratex antigue covering.

The reason that the coverings look different in photos on the net is, the backing materials of the different products, ie Solartex has a transparent film backing and Oratex has a glossy white paper backing. This makes comparing colours by photos very difficult, light also plays a very big part as well. I took many photos and they were very hard to tell apart in many of them. From 20 or so photos only 3 were able to demonstrate the colours effectively.

I also leant that the Solartex antigue and linen colours are much closer than I first thought. The now obvious difference is that antigue is opaque, you can see the structure beneath it, and linen is solid colour and no structure is visible through it.

The Oratex antigue is the lightest colour of them all, I`m now sure that my model above is covered with Oratex antigue. Laying them all out together on the same structure was the the only real way of being sure.

Hard to see which is which like this...


This is easier to show, Solartex antigue is on the left, Oratex antigue next, both opaque, then Solartex linen on the right, solid colour.


So I hope this helps identify the covering you`re dealing with.

Regards Roger

Thread: Fire extinguishers
28/12/2018 10:33:30

Reading my post I clearly got it wrong... I should have stated Not only by the door but the opposite end as well.

Its fairly common knowledge to have extinguishers by the point of exit in all work places and buildings. My point being is not to be trapped the wrong side of a fire and have no way to get to the exit. The emphasis should always be get out and stay out...

28/12/2018 05:43:54

Something missed here is Not to have your extinquisher/s and fire blanket/s next to the door... They should be at the far end the workshop, opposite end to the door... If the fire breaks out between you and the exit you need to get out and your path is blocked by fire... Fight your way Out...going through the fire to get to the extinquisher next to the door?? Not neccessary if your`re already out... Stay out! Think twice before fighting your way In...

My precious things are in the house!!!

Thread: Solartex Linen and Oratex Antique - colour comparison
24/12/2018 22:48:10

This is the colour I was trying to match, thought it was yellowish rather than whiteish.



Could be Natural with a coating of something. Will see soon enough!

24/12/2018 20:15:01

Hi Graham,

I have to deal with the very same problem. The covering on the fuselage of a model I am rebuilding was lighter than Solartex Antigue so bought Solatex Linen to cover the wings I built, thinking is would match, it did not.

So my assumption now is that the model was orignally covered in Oratex Antigue, if that assumption is correct, then none of these tex coverings colour match.

I could cheat a bit by stripping the fuselage bear, its a Bleriot type model so I could do that, and hope the new material will match the tailplane/ rudder etc. That`s unlikely, new, matching the old coated dirtied material, so have decided the only way to go, and be sure now, is to cover the model with fresh covering material. I do have the advantage of covering the wings and empennage only and leaving the fuselage naked, saving material, for future patching and repairs perhaps.

I won`t be 100% sure on just how close the colours match until the new Oratex Antique gets here.

Of course someone is going to suggest painting! I do know that Humbrol Linen matches Solartex Antigue!

Regards Roger

Thread: Super Tigre 20cc - 30cc engine parts
26/11/2018 23:00:35

Hi Chris

Do you have any operational conditions to cater for? Do you live and fly in the UK?

The manual for the older engine, which I believe I have states that 5% - 10% nitro is fine. It seems to be that the oil content for running in and normal use is where it wants the user to pay attention, and care to use a suitable fuel. The later manual for the 325 engine says about the same... except it mentions that 15% nitro is permissable, providing extra care is taken when setting up the mixture in use. What issues have you experienced when using fuels with nitro content?

Shimming the the head to lower the CR isn`t something the average user would go for, especially if its not mentioned in the operators manual.

I do respect your obviously a very big fan and knowledgable user of these engines, and this is my first! The very reason I`m seeking advise here.

Regards Roger

25/11/2018 16:42:53

Oh joy it`s a runner!

Thanks for all your guidance and input. Finally got to test it!

So, Weston UK Liquid Gold 5% and a PP4T plug also from Weston. " Wet and Hot" in about ten minutes of practice, less than that if you count running backwards!

My old BBQ has now become my new engine test bench!

new test bench.jpg

And the proof it works

st running 1.jpg

st running 2.jpg

From a 12oz tank I got 13 minutes of run time, mostly WOT, setup was easy, just find peak RPM and back the screw out again, to drop the revs. No amount of harsh throttle use from closed to fully open and back again could get it to falter, it was smooth all the way till the fuel run out!

I didn`t get any idle or peak rev readings because my tacho died from a flat battery. Nor did I test it`s restart from hot. Something for next playtime.

I`m on the lookout for a box type of exhaust now. So if you know of the whereabouts of one, please let me know.

Cheers Roger

Thread: Solartex alternative?
16/11/2018 23:14:49


Is dope fully fuel proof? In larger amounts its cheaper than some other fuel proofers I uesd. Is it still available in different colours?

Thread: Weston Glow Fuel
16/11/2018 22:59:53

Hi everyone,

It would seem I brought this debate to an end. Whoops! That wasn`t my intention at all, so I`ve done something I hope is worthy of more comments.

The original query was, Is Liquid Gold as an attractive as its price suggests and is it good fuel?

Well I`ll try answering that like this:

I`ve not used this fuel myself, but others have noted its good, I`ve looked at other sites where modellers use it. Its easy to find people who says its good, use it regulary, have no complaints, and recommend it.

Anyway, I`ve ordered some fuel from Weston UK, Liquid Gold 5% nitro x 2, Pro snyth 5% x 1, Pro synth 10% x 1, so as to get the free carraige on four gallons.

So: " Is Liquid Gold still an attractive price if your engine wears out quicker?"

I`ve done a few sums to look at this, a few things are assumptions and may contain errors, (Disclaimer).laugh

The price differance on 1 Gall LG 5% and 1 Gall PS 5% is £2.43

If you would take as an example an, ASP .61 2S at a price of around £87.00 inc pp, and use a 9oz/270cc tank.

It would take about, 21 Gall of fuel used to save £87.00 approx. This, I think!... Is what is required.

So 21gal = 95000cc... You would need to use 352 tank fulls of fuel.

During 1 season you have to make 352 flights to use all the fuel.

This is only 6.8 flights a week. Every year you could buy a new engine, (warranty void of course).

Providing that: The same engine lasts that long, (modern engineering probably would).

So now you have to go flying in order to save money to buy that new engine!laugh

Didn`t fancy building tonight so done this instead!


Thread: Super Tigre 20cc - 30cc engine parts
14/11/2018 16:19:41

Thanks for the info Gonzo, as I`m planning to mount the tank as close to the back of motor as the airframe will allow, I`m not expecting any issues with fuel supply. Nobody has mentioned fuel supply problems so far. I have just dug out a Perry fuel pump from another of my "Job Lot" purchases. It seemed so odd to have a nipple fitted to a two stroke crankcase I was curious to know more! Cheers

Thread: Weston Glow Fuel
13/11/2018 20:42:48

Hi Rocker,

I`ve been investigating Weston UK Liquid Gold for my project, posted on this site. Some have suggested using this fuel for my Super Tigre S3000/30cc engine. Weston told me that this fuel was developed with this engine in mind, because it requires a 10% oil content. I`m going to order some for use in this engine alone, and continue using 20% oil mixes for my other engines. Personally I would use the fuel mix recommened by the engine manufacturer. Your right! Liquid Gold is an attractive price, but will it still be so if your engine wears out quicker?

Regards Roger

Thread: Super Tigre 20cc - 30cc engine parts
13/11/2018 20:19:39


So thats two possible explanations already. Neither of these occurred to me. My thoughts had me thinking of an alternative way to pressurise the tank,

So Mal whilst on the subject of tanks, What size was in your model? What flight times were you achieveing? The largest tank I have at present is 380cc, approx 13oz my measuring jug tells me. As this is going in a slow flying model and will only be doing mild aerobatics, the full power of this engine won`t be used for much of the flight. I think 12 - 15 minutes would do me. Untill I get the fuel and do a test run, I don`t have much of an idea of what the fuel consumption is likely to be.


13/11/2018 16:31:58

aah a fuel pump? Mmm

13/11/2018 15:49:04

st 3000 om1.jpg

13/11/2018 15:48:21

st 3000 om.jpg

13/11/2018 15:47:43

st 3000 f1.jpg

13/11/2018 15:35:44

Before going off to buy a new drill bit, I had a very close inside the prop and could see a ridge was being formed by the hub as far as I able to push the prop on.

So it occurred to that that the hub might have a burr on its front edge, I could also see a very light score on the hub. I got a fine file and carefully filed the edge and the score mark, then finished off with some 220 grade abrasive paper.

To deal with the ridge inside the prop I found a size of drill that would take the grit paper wrapped around a couple turns for a nice fit inside the prop with no slop, and rotated the prop over the grit paper until the ridge had gone... just a few minutes and the prop is now a perfect slide on snug fit laugh Yes!

I need to check the balance of the prop Mal but my little spindle balancer just falls though the hole!

When getting out the exhaust yesterday, and finding this long forgotten prop, I also found the engine radial mount that came fitted to the engine when I purchased it. I replaced it because I had a spare, coincidently bought previously in a job lot of engine mounts. It wasn`t the condition that concerned me then, I had a better spare, so fitted it. I left it aside in case I needed a plain crankcase end, (perfect doner to cut up).

So `looking over this mounting and I spotted something I previously ignored. It`s now more obvious and not standard, someone has fitted a nipple for fuel tubing! Thing is why? On a two stroke? Puzzling me! Is this a reconised mod serving a purpose?

Alan, I`m sure Weston UK told me that Liquid Gold has 10% oil. I only want it for this motor, so will double check this when ordering.

I`ve taken some more photos of how the engine looks now, hope the files are not too large to download.

So what do you think?


12/11/2018 23:38:53

Hi Guys,

Checked out Weston UK "Liquid Gold 5%" and its a very cost effective way to buy, so will definitely put in an order for some. They will post 4 x 1 gallon, free postage OR 4 x 1/2 gallon, at £5.60 postage.

I can`t ID the plug fitted to the motor but I do have a spare OS F plug if needed.

I also found a used 20x8 Graupner G sonic plastic prop, which I must of forgot I had! So I drilled the six holes required for the hub bolts but the largest drill I have to drill out the center is a tad too small, just a bit too tight to push on more than a few mm. The drill has been spun in the chuck at some time in its life so I can`t see its size, I`m quessing 12mm or equivilant and the hub requires 13mm, typical huh! Allmost there! I may as well purchase a new drill bit to size as I`ll need it for other props.

Been wondering, how much vibration do these motors produce? Can I bolt the radial mount directly to the firewall/bulkhead or should I be thinking of damping it somehow?

Thanks for the much needed input.

Regards Roger

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