Here is a list of all the postings Kim Taylor has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: 2 or 3 questions please, need some wise advice|
With regards to your motor, I'd consider two aspects:
1. You may need weight up front to help balance the model, so getting a smaller one may not be the best thing.
2. The motor which you have may seem massively over specified, but remember, it will only turn at a fixed(ish) speed. The power being absorbed (and thrust created) is entirely a function of the prop you fit, so just find a prop that will give you your required 350w at whatever the speed is at which the motor will turn. This is calculated by multiplying the kV number of the motor by the voltage of the battery that you're using.
Sorry if I've duplicated anything mentioned above by others but it seems to me a bigish motor hung out at the front may be a good thing in this instance.
Edited By Kim Taylor on 17/02/2020 11:37:44
|Thread: Spektrum SAFE or Low rates|
Safe has no spatial awareness, so in your example it would probably try to roll upright and therefore hit the deck.
It definitely has it's uses, but it's not an auto pilot!!
|Thread: EME 120 problem|
I don't know the layout of the engine, but I deduce from your post that it has a single carb feeding through some kind of manifold to the two cylinders.
If all else such as compression is equal, I'd be looking for an air leak, possibly on the 'good' cylinder causing it to run lean, which you could be compensating for and causing the other pot to be rich.
|Thread: Max Thrust Riot versus Wot4|
But by who Keith - I can't say I've ever seen that comparison made on here anyway. It just can't stand scrutiny.
I know that you feel that you've been misled in some way by advertising, or 'hype' but at the end of the day, all you're seeing is the difference between a traditional model and a foamy. Apples and Oranges
Nothing to add, but I'll end with a
You've obviously got the bit between your teeth on this one, and that is fine.
But you're trying to compare a 3lb ish 330w foamy with a 5lb ish 750w wooden ARTF and not surprisingly, in your opinion, it's coming up short.
If we assume that the wing area is roughly the same on each (cba to look, but it can't be far out) then the wing loading alone will tell you the story. The Riot will fly slower 'cos gravity isn't assisting it as much.
A fairer comparison would be with the WOT4 Foam E, but I can't shed any light on that, as I haven't flown one of those, whereas I have flown both the Riot and WOT4 woody and as you have found out, they're completely different, no meaningful comparison can be made, in my view.
Btw, I think that you'd find, should you ever decide to build one, that a 'lectric WOT4 ARTF would weigh somewhere around or above 5 1/2 lbs, I know that mine, with a 3000mah 6S lipo fitted, was just over 6lb.
|Thread: Max Thrust Riot - Upgrades|
No, I've got a couple of slightly puffed ones as well, and there's no problem closing the hatch.
Don't forget you can lose the weight of the er....... weight (previously buried in the nose).
Iirc, that is about 80 - 100g, so overall, you probably lose a little weight, so watts/lb goes up a bit.
I guess it all depends on whether you've got it balanced at the forward or rearward end of the 75 - 90mm range in the manual before you change anything.
For whatever it's worth, I fly my Riot (currently on my 2nd, a V2) with a 3200 3S, which basically fills the battery tray, and with the weight removed. Mine balances just aft of the rearmost (90mm) recommended by Century for "initial flights". From memory, it's at about 93mm. Now I don't claim to be an 'ace' flyer, or have the reflexes of a cat, but for me, it's entirely stable and controllable at that.
As you can see, no room to really move the battery, although on my first Riot I re-routed the esc wiring and had the battery pushed fully aft in the tray, so maybe 10mm further back. By the time I 'retired' that one, it had gained so much weight through being repaired that tbh I have no idea where the c of g actually was!!
By the way, in case anybody's wondering, the wiring and connector is tucked up in the void between the battery tray and the plywood subframe.
I'll be back later in the week with my amp and rpm readings, as promised in an earlier posting.
No offence taken, I can assure you.
With a name like mine, I get used to being called ANYTHING but Kim.
A bit like 'a boy named Sue!!
I'm following all of this with interest, because although as pointed out above performance is subjective, my Riot can't be described as anything like blancmange or jelly. Having said that, these recent cold mornings have noticeably reduced the performance, but it'll still pull up into the vertical and go on up and up and up and.......... you get the idea.
I've taken to warming the batteries in my trouser pocket for a while before fitting them, which improved things.
Meant to say, when I get a few minutes spare I'll get some current and rpm figures from mine, to see how they compare. Won't be until the middle of the week though.
Edited By Kim Taylor on 04/01/2020 10:32:31
Whilst I have no doubt that you are experiencing what you describe, I don't think it's typical of the Riot.
I use a 3200 3S setup, everything else standard but with an APC-E 12x6, The model is good in the vertical, as long as you don't 'dawdle' (i.e. it won't accelerate from a near stop vertically). It will float around very happily, albeit slowly, on a whiff of throttle and will cruise around at half throttle quite happily. It will loop and bunt from level flight (once you've upped the control throws).
Having flown both, it is my opinion that the model isn't as slippery as a WOT 4, so it'll never go as fast unless you up the power train substantially
I haven't got any rpm readings, but I do remember seeing 33A on my meter on the APC prop, and a little more on the original prop. It seems to me (from a distance) that if you're only seeing 37A on a 4S battery and 12x6 prop, then maybe there's something wrong with the esc (I'm assuming that you've set the end points). Even using your 30A 3S figure, my feeling is that you'd see more than 37A on a 4S (i.e. a 33% potential voltage and therefore speed increase).
It just seems to me that you haven't got to the root cause of your issues yet and are in danger of just papering over the cracks by using a 4S.
As I said, no doubt that you've been experiencing issues and have gone to a lot of trouble to overcome them, but my question has to remain - why???
Just my 2p worth
|Thread: CAA registration take-up?|
Sorry to jump in off topic, but has anyone else NOT received their copy of the BMFA News yet, or is it just me?
If just me, I'll have to email the BMFA
I think that the South Korean parent co. will continue to manufacture and distribute the radio sets, as that was their 'part' of the business. It's only the German office / factory that has been shut down.
|Thread: Max Thrust Riot - Upgrades|
As I said above, I tied mine to the wooden structure under the battery.
I'm sure it won't come to any harm if left loose, it's just the engineer in me that doesn't like it!
Just thought - when I got my first Riot (actually a 'Devil' badged one as no Riots were available at the time) I put the 'Safe' rx from my old Apprentice in it and it flew beautifully, much better than the Apprentice ever did. I reckon that combination would be a perfect combination if someone was 'going it alone', as I was originally.
Edited By Kim Taylor on 28/11/2019 17:43:40
If they HAVE done away with the circuit board and its' associated teeny tiny plugs for the wingtip led's then it's no loss as they are a right royal pita to get hooked up - at least they are with my banana fingers!!
Not 100% clear on how you're connecting the lights up now - you'll maybe need a Y lead to split the aileron channel (if you're not using two channels on the rx) then some other way of connecting the wingtip lights up. Or did I misunderstand??
For what it's worth, I cable tied my esc to the structure underneath the battery holder, just to stop it 'rattling around' loose
Edited By Kim Taylor on 28/11/2019 14:49:40
|Thread: Scam or what ?|
I think the fact that you need to ask the question points to the probability that it IS a scam.
Someone has hacked Talk Talks user details, by the look of it, unless it's a lucky coincidence on a phishing expedition by some lowlife.
|Thread: RX8R Pro Signal Swamping??|
The '8 has a kind of moulded sausage at the tip of the aerial, not the paddle type that I've seen pictures of.
The '6's have standard coax cable aerials. And yes, that may be the reason for the difference.
|Thread: Mick Reeves Gangster 63 Lite|
I think if you speak to them nicely, you can have an original Gangster 63 from Mick Reeves Models.
Not cheap though!!
|Thread: RX8R Pro Signal Swamping??|
As promised, had a play with it this afternoon with the result that I could not get the RX6R's to swamp or drop out despite severe provocation - obviously the design must be different.
Thanks to all for the reassurance - I thought it may be normal, but needed to check.
Hi Andy - the answer to your question is no, I haven't noticed any similar issues with the RX6R's. I'll have a go at making it happen this afternoon when I'm in the workshop (or back bedroom, as my missus insists on calling it!!) and I'll report back if it happens.
Edited By Kim Taylor on 15/11/2019 13:11:03
I've recently been swapping my planes over to FrSky, using an X9D+SE 2019 with mainly Rx6R's and a single RX8R Pro receivers, all bound in D16 mode.
Up to this point, all has been going well, with no unexpected issues.
Yesterday I put the RX8R Pro in to my WOT4XL which has a petrol motor, which is why I used the Pro rx. Whilst doing the setup, I noticed a number of unexpected signal losses and upon investigating I found that if I get the tx too close (say within 1 metre) of the rx aerials, the rx immediately lost signal, the red l.e.d. flashing, until I moved the tx away when the link was re-established.
I have not been able to do a proper range test due to lack of space, but will obviously do one when I next go to the flying field.
Is this a 'normal' thing to be seeing, bearing in mind that the test conditions are, of course, abnormal regarding the distance between the rx and tx? Or should I be thinking about returning the rx for testing?
I'm a bit jumpy because the reason I have changed to FrSky is that I was getting unexplained control losses on my previous system, resulting in the loss of three models, and I don't want to be repeating that, obviously.
Thanks for looking
Edited By Kim Taylor on 15/11/2019 11:09:44
|Thread: November 2019 Xmas Wrapping - errata?|
Can certainly confirm that D16 is supported.
I've got an X9D+SE2019 and due to lack of ACCESS stock, I'm using it with an RX6R on ACCST D16 protocol and have no issues (well, only of my own making). Still learning the programming, but it's not as hard as I had feared, at least to do the basics.
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