Here is a list of all the postings Kim Taylor has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: LEMON RX7|
I seem to recall that there have been some issues with the Lemon Rx stab+ when used with certain modules.
Check on the Stab+ thread on RCGroups.com - it's a big thread though, so be warned!!
|Thread: The State of Play|
Wrt the scale of the Kylie 'droid, having seen the 'full size' in the street in London some years ago, I'd have thought that anything less than 1:1 would be in danger of falling down the side of the seat cushion, never to be seen again.
p.s. That's to say, she's tiny
|Thread: Warbirds replicas Tempest|
I've got a roll of brown masking paper, as used by automotive body shops, which I intend to use on my current project which I wanted to try the brown paper method on. I had the paper 'in stock' as I used to use it in my work, but from memory I paid less than a tenner for a 200 metre (yes, that's two hundred) roll.
It's quite thin, but I read somewhere that Richard recommends for it to be a similar weight to xmas wrapping paper, which describes this stuff to a tee.
Either cadge some from your local car body shop, or the local car paint supplier will no doubt have something in stock.
|Thread: Seagull Challenger - First kit Build - First IC|
If you don't want to 'flash the cash' on a jig, at least draw a straight line on the building board surface and use this to align the fuselage, then pin / clamp it together.
Better than nothing
|Thread: Max Thrust Riot versus Wot4|
Well, not quite. Different, yes - like comparing apples with Tuesday. But that's a well worn path on this thread and another, so let's let it lie there!!
btw I'm not anti i/c - I've got a Wot4 XL fitted with a petrol motor and a Gangster 63 Lite with an ASP .61FS.
I do love to get them out when I've got time on my hands to spend at the field, just doesn't happen very often.
I have recently been flying my Riot again after a break of 6 months or more. Before lockdown, and since, I have mainly been flying a 'lectrified Seagull PC-9 which although it isn't tricky to fly, is a much higher energy experience, due to the 6.5lb weight. It can slow down nicely but if you are carrying a bit of excess speed it will still land and stay down - it isn't a floater.
Going back to the Riot has been an eye opener, as I've obviously got lazy and stopped flying the model down to the ground as it punishes any excess speed with a big bounce and a second 'landing' further down the strip. They can and will slow down to a walking pace, but you've got to time the flare just right if you're to avoid the dreaded bounce or stall in from a foot up.
For me, lack of noise is definitely an issue - I don't fly the Riot of there's an i.c. plane up, as I just can't hear it and I find that I need the extra reference of sound to help me fly accurately. The PC-9 makes enough noise to be able to hear it most of the time - one of my club mates reckons it sounds almost turbine like although I couldn't comment as my tinnitus messes up the full aural experience.
By the way, contributing to this thread is about to cost me serious money, as I've decided to build another Wot4 using the power train I've outlined above, probably.
Oh and I forgot to say the Ripmax electric motor fitting kit weighs a ton - the standoffs are solid aluminium and seriously heavy, as is the aluminium motor plate.
I cut away the centre of the motor plate and replaced the standoffs for lighter studding/tube.
When I do my next one, I won't bother with the electric add on kit and I'll make my own battery tray and motor mount.
Edited By Kim Taylor on 17/06/2020 14:51:03
If I was building another Wot4 electric (which I may well do at some point) I'd try to go for the lightest setup to give adequate power, so in my view I'd go for a 4250 or 4260 can size around 700 - 800kV on a 4s LiPo.
Propped right, that would give you an easy 750 - 800 watts for an all up weight of around 5.5lbs.
On my last (late) one, I used a 50?? can sized motor, around 500kV on a 6s LiPo (because I had it all 'in stock) propped down to about 750 watts. The downside was that I had to add weight to the tail end to get the c of g right and it ended up at over 6lb.
Still flew OK, but the landings could leave scorch marks on the grass if you didn't have a breeze to help!!
It fell victim to radio failure (really, it was) but I still miss it.
Obviously, your mileage may vary
edit to remove unwanted emoji
Edited By Kim Taylor on 17/06/2020 13:44:37
|Thread: DSMX compatible Lemon Telemetry receive LM0052|
Ditto - no problems to report, the vario certainly works as I found when I first used it and left the tones switched on by mistake.
|Thread: Max Thrust Riot versus Wot4|
I use a 3S 3200 LiPo, so a bit weightier than 'standard', so I removed the weight.
With the weight removed I seem to recall that the c of g is 90mm from the leading edge, i.e. the back end of the suggested range.
For me, the model flies much better with the c of g in the 90 - 95 range, but if you're unsure, work your way back with the c of g in stages until you're comfortable.
|Thread: Novice needs help!|
You need to plug the bind plug into the bind port, then plug the battery into any spare port on the receiver (make sure you get the polarity right). The bind light will then flash rapidly and the bind process can be carried out as outlined above.
Once it's bound, you can remove the bind plug and the battery can be plugged back in to the bind port if you want, or any other 'spare' port on the rx.
eta slow typing club - beaten to it.
Just idle curiosity, but as I don't see any reference to it, do you have an external switch inline between the battery and the receiver? It makes things much more complicated in use if you haven't.
Edited By Kim Taylor on 25/05/2020 19:26:25
Edited By Kim Taylor on 25/05/2020 19:32:52
|Thread: Wire Gauges and how to measure them.|
I may be wrong on the teeny tiny sizes used in r/c installations, but my understanding was that electrical cables were sized by cross sectional area, e.g. 1.0mm, 0.75mm etc.
Wire gauge is, I thought, more applicable to piano wire or even wierdly sheet metal, e.g. 16 swg (standard wire gauge). The bigger the gauge number, the thinner the wire.
Don't know if that helps or not, sorry!!
Edited By Kim Taylor on 23/05/2020 09:54:06
|Thread: Toying with selling up|
I'm getting too long in the tooth to push hard (hence the 'Guzzi), but I do like to 'make progress' as they say.
I also now only buy 'sport touring' type tyres rather than the track day specials which I have used in the past.
All irrelevant at the moment, just moved house and my bikes are stashed in my daughters garage, where they've been since just before the lockdown. Last rode them back in last October on a rare dry day (as I said, a fair weather rider)
Hoping to get them home from tomorrow, but I doubt they'll start without a quick boost on a battery charger and I can't get them up the ramp and into my van without engine assist!!
As a car driver and fair weather biker (now) although I used to commute 80 miles a day all year round on a bike, don't get carried away with the idea that a bike is cheaper to run!!
My 750 Moto Guzzi has better fuel consumption than most at around 60mpg but my Honda CBR600 doesn't do more than 40 - 45mpg. They both need rear tyres around every 4 - 5000 miles, with fronts every 6 - 8000. The rear chain and sprockets on the Honda circa 10K miles and oil changes every 3000. The only reason I commuted on the bike was to save time, which on the commute into S London from West Sussex could amount to an hour a day (probably more now).
Your choice obviously but do the sums properly, not the 'man maths' to justify it to yourself.
Others may disagree, but as a rule of thumb, I tend to think that 50 - 60% max of the retail price is a realistic expectation. Unfortunately in your case, it doesn't really matter whether it's been used for 10 minutes or 10 months.
Don't know how that compares to your estimates.
All subject to the usual mantra that it's worth what someone will pay for it - the trick is finding the 'someone' who really really wants it.
Good luck if you do decide to sell up, but be sure - it'd be galling to sell it then realise you wanted to carry on after all!!
|Thread: Servo oscillates wildly on start up.|
With regard to the c of g, the recommended position is 100 to 105 from the leading edge.
Personally, I find that very conservative (much like the recommended position on the 'normal' size Wot4 woody).
I would use the 100 to 105 as a starting point, easing it back to suit your own taste and flying style.
On mine, at 105, I needed 3 or 4 mm of 'up' elevator to trim staight and level and it needed quite a push whem inverted. I'm sure it's nearer 110mm now, which still needs 1.5 mm or so of up elevator, but it maintains level when inverted with just a hint of a push on the stick ans it's still docile in flight.
p.s. I'd just replace the servo - on my XL the throttle servo started doing much the same thing, then suddenly packed up altogether - luckily just as I was about to take off, it just refused to open the throttle, so disaster was averted!!!
|Thread: First "Drone" deliveries next week|
Where is the UAV going to land on the IOW though?
It can't be at the hospital site, as that is in a built up area (and certainly not "by the sea", so I'm guessing it'd be at Sandown, which is a half hour drive away from Newport. To my mind, this would be a more useful trial if they were using some kind of rotary wing UAV with capability of using the heli pad at the hospital - what they're doing here could easily be done using a conventional 'plane or microlight type.
Edited By Kim Taylor on 27/04/2020 14:47:47
edited to remove unwanted emoji
Edited By Kim Taylor on 27/04/2020 14:48:41
Edited By Kim Taylor on 27/04/2020 14:49:16
|Thread: If you like engines.........|
You could ask the same question of us - why do we fly 'toy' aeroplanes, either causing noise pollution or potentially causing a problem of disposing of some rather nasty chemicals used in our batteries.
The point is to exercise the mind, to see what is possible using skill and ingenuity and in the process make something that looks like it could have come out of the factory.
And don't lets get on to the electric vehicle subject again - we all know where that went last time!!
|Thread: 2 or 3 questions please, need some wise advice|
With regards to your motor, I'd consider two aspects:
1. You may need weight up front to help balance the model, so getting a smaller one may not be the best thing.
2. The motor which you have may seem massively over specified, but remember, it will only turn at a fixed(ish) speed. The power being absorbed (and thrust created) is entirely a function of the prop you fit, so just find a prop that will give you your required 350w at whatever the speed is at which the motor will turn. This is calculated by multiplying the kV number of the motor by the voltage of the battery that you're using.
Sorry if I've duplicated anything mentioned above by others but it seems to me a bigish motor hung out at the front may be a good thing in this instance.
Edited By Kim Taylor on 17/02/2020 11:37:44
|Thread: Spektrum SAFE or Low rates|
Safe has no spatial awareness, so in your example it would probably try to roll upright and therefore hit the deck.
It definitely has it's uses, but it's not an auto pilot!!
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