Here is a list of all the postings Kim Taylor has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Latest CAA Update|
Hang on - I think I see a problem
|Thread: Max Thrust Riot - Upgrades|
I've never quite 'got' the battery box thing. I use 3200 3S LiPo in mine (my first plane coming back to the hobby being an Eflite Apprentice having this size from the factory). Obviously by a complete fluke, these are a perfect fit.
I get the Eflite compatible batteries from HK - cost about £16 each from memory. They come with an EC3 plug fitted, but this can be changed if you can solder. I've standardised on EC3 for all my 3S planes, just to make life easy so I soldered the mating EC3 on in place of the Deans plug on the ESC. The battery is a snug fit in the holder but the plug / socket and wiring tuck up between the battery box and the plywood strengthener.
Wrt the 'snakes', I think you'll find that if you give them a good pull, they'll come out. Not sure how you'd get a new one in though!!
And yes, it's a pita when you try to put the plane on to the balancer and you 'ping' the vernier, which promptly swings around.
The c of g on mine is behind the 90mm 'rearmost' recommendation (nose weight out, bit of ply in instead).
Not 100% sure, but I seem to remember 93mm. Flies fine, no issues whatsoever and needs a slight push to fly straight & level when inverted. The 'book settings, as previously mentioned are very conservative.
My V2 also had the over long pushrods and the parts to convert to the screw type connectors were included in the kit.
Just do the wing bolts up until they're tight(ish) but not crushing the wing. Easier to do than to describe but you can feel when it's enough.
I also use the HK c of g balance thingy. I think that they use a spherical end on the upright and socket to allow for dihedral. Either way I suggest that you check and double check when using the balancer as I've found that it can give false results. Now I always balance, then take the plane off and put it on again to re check and the results can differ. I think it's because of the flexible uprights on the vernier bits - you have to make sure that the wing sits just right and doesn't push against the upright.
|Thread: Latest CAA Update|
In fairness to Erfolg, the news page on the BMFA website has been pretty much silent on the matter, only the 'call to arms' article in June, and more recently the latest rather depressing article in late August, so 8 or 9 weeks with nothing to see or hear from our representative body. Other than that, on this matter, nada.
Forums such as this are the only environment in which people can air their views and / or share their knowledge of a subject.
I am sure, or at least hope, that 'behind the scenes' the BMFA are working hard to try to uphold the rights of their membership. It's just that, on this matter at least, we currently have very little to show for it.
|Thread: Max Thrust Riot - Upgrades|
The receiver recess is a small rectangular section up against the bulkhead at the wing leading edge. I've never found it to be big enough, although it may be possible to fit a small 4 channel rx in there.
The motor thing, I'm confused by, as the motor is the same for both Riot & Ruckus according to the spares section of Century's website. I've just put a new fuselage on mine (don't ask) and the motor fitted ok, although the screws do go in at a bit of an angle. I had a problem with the holes for one servo not lining up, so the drillings aren't infallible.
My V2 Riot had the circuit board but the replacement fuselage didn't even have the bit of wood it mounts on. The little plugs are a carry over from the original Riot.
I've got my ailerons set with a low rate at 10mm up / 7mm downand high nearer 15mm up / 10mm down. I find that to be comfortable enough but not twitchy. The standard settings are 'safe' especially with the nose weight still in place.
I use 3s 3200 LiPo's and have never had an issue fitting them, either in the V2 or the original one I had for 2 or more years before that. I think you'll have to take out the nose weight if you're using a 3000 LiPo just to get the c of g somewhere close.
|Thread: Possibly going all electric, which motors should I use?|
Sorry, self inflicted confusion compliments of the River Spey!!
If the info on the motor doesn't give some indication of maximum amps or watts, I'd be wary of buying it.
Maximum amps is a pretty fundamental figure which the user HAS to know or risk burning the motor out.
All i.m.h.o. of course.
I too came in to electrics 'cold' and struggled with the numbers (or lack of) in the adverts, so my advice is to treat ALL the figures quoted as suspect until you test them yourself. However to give yourself a chance of getting it right first time, this is my understanding of how it all splices together:
You can get a notional maximum wattage by multiplying the maximum rated amps of the motor by the voltage being applied by the Lipo. So for instance a 30A motor on a 3s Lipo would be a notional 330w, but it all depends on the prop load which you put on it.
That's why having a means of measuring the absorbed current when the prop is turning at WOT is important - so that you know (a) what the current (and wattage) is and (b) you're not overloading the motor or esc.
With regard to the original question regarding the Wot4, I would challenge anyone to get a full size ARTF Wot4 electric below 5lb in weight (with a sensible powertrain, that is). I've checked at length on various threads and most come out at 5.5lb or more with a 4 or 5s setup. My own, with a 3000mAh 6s was a smidge under 6lb.
A build it yourself may be lighter, but I've got no experience (yet) of the kit version.
Edited By Kim Taylor on 26/08/2019 00:06:27
|Thread: X9D+ 2019 or Q X7S?|
Thanks to all for your thoughts - all very helpful.
At the moment, I'm leaning towards the QX7S, because:
As Peter brought up - I do prefer the styling and maybe by the time I buy one, the new protocol will have been rolled out on the QX7S
I like the thought that it comes with an installed battery and (external) charger as well as a nice case - mainly because I don't want the faff of ordering a load of extra bits & bobs to make it work.
I don't need the sliders and as far as I can see, this (along with a couple of extra switches) is the main practical difference in the radios.
Hi Trevor, I will buy the tx and a suitable rx from T9 if & when I decide to go forward, and will check compatibility with them. I think I'll be using the new upgraded X series receiver as the first model I'll change over is my Wot4XL Petrol, and I understand there have been issues with the earlier rx's used with cdi equipped motors.
Alan, does the QX7S come with the frsky operating system? I thought they were open tx only - maybe I'm wrong, wouldn't be the first time. I have to say that getting to grips with Open tx is the one thing I'm concerned about, although as some of you have pointed out above, it's not an insurmountable problem and there's plenty of information out there. I'll probably buy the manual that T9 sell as like you Andy, I hate looking at video's and trying to copy them, I'd much rather have a book in front of me to refer to - but then I'm old(ish).
Just waiting for the verdict on my current radio and then to decide whether I feel I can rebuilt trust in it.
Thanks to all
Edited By Kim Taylor on 14/08/2019 14:22:09
I may be looking for a new system at some time in the near future, and always said that I'd probably go FrSky.
Having looked at the T9 website, I've narrowed it down to either the 2019 edition X9D+ or the Q X7S (can't afford the X10).
From what I can see, the QX7S would do everything I want it to (I don't need sliders) but the X9D+ has a new protocol (similar to Horus?) which may be the better longer term bet.
What do the experts on here think on the matter - QX7S (which seems to be marketed more as a multirotor tx) vs the 'old style' but new X9D+.
Thanks in advance for your thoughts
Edited By Kim Taylor on 14/08/2019 00:03:06
|Thread: Hangar 9 Ultra Stik 10cc|
Try one of these:
I've put one on to my Wot4XL/NGH GT17 and found that it cuts the 'bark' right down, as well as 'silencing' a bit.
It's the one shown in the current RCM&E feature on silencing petrol motors.
I used a length of stainless steel flexi tube, joined with silicon tube to the engine at one end and the above silencer at the other.
ps Liking the look of the Stik - maybe one for the future - I'm fed up with Wot4's, even if you can get hold of them!!
Edited By Kim Taylor on 13/08/2019 17:53:29
|Thread: Hospitalised, my own fault - but ?|
Colin, that injury looks a shocker. I did something similar myself years ago, but not as severe as that!
Still got the scar though.
My reason for posting was just to advise you not to hurry back on to the motorbike - of course you know how much pressure you put on your forearms when riding, but it's easy to get carried away in the heat of the moment and have everything open up again - been there and got the T shirt.
Get well soon
|Thread: Methanol versus Petrol?|
I think that with the honourable exception of Laser and maybe Weston UK, glow engines are very much a niche product now. The shift to petrol is driven more by fashion in the USA than any home grown trend.
As we've recently seen, glow engines are being phased out basically due to lack of demand in the USA where they seem to be going electric for up to 20cc types and petrol for the larger models.
Our market in the UK isn't enough on its own to keep a volume manufacturer busy and profitable. Even in China........
Edited By Kim Taylor on 09/08/2019 11:36:17
|Thread: Problem with air in fuel line. Pulse xt40|
Yes, sorry I've re-read it and I misunderstood what you wrote.
Must pay more attention next time!!
|Thread: Latest Lemon DSMP/X 7 check Plus Stabiliser|
Also don't use auto level (panic) IF you've got any flaperon or differential aileron programmed in.
I don't know what it does, but it's been flagged up as a problem on another site (and I think it's in the latest instructions anyway).
|Thread: Problem with air in fuel line. Pulse xt40|
In order for the fuel to be drawn (there's your clue) up the tubing and into the needle valve assembly, the pressure in the fuel line must be less than atmospheric (certainly as the level in the tank drops).
Therefore it follows that a leak in the tubing between the tank and the needle valve won't necessarily let fuel out (when the engine is running) but draw (that word again) air in, causing bubbles.
Depending on the routing of the tube, these bubbles may come through as individual micro bubbles or if there's a high loop in the line, they may well settle at the high spot and then be pulled (different word, same meaning) through as a big bubble or void.
At least that's my experience.
No personal slight intended as I'm sure many do this or at least thought about it, but does no-one else see the irony in using a petrol genny to keep your battery charged so that you can fly quietly??
Or is it just me?
Yes yes, I know that the genny's not flying, but still......
|Thread: Electric Cars.|
Are you sure??
The loss of income from fossil fuel taxes will have to be recouped from somewhere...........................................
|Thread: Moon landing|
In a previous life I knew Peter Fairleys son.
He (Peter F) was obviously well respected amongst the scientific community and the NASA astronauts, as Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin were house guests and became personal friends of the entire family.
|Thread: Max Riot Motor alternatives|
A 4000 might be pushing it, but I fit a 3200 3s in mine without modification. It's the one H-K sell as Eflite compatible so it's got an EC3 connector. These are a legacy from my Apprentice with which I came back in to the hobby a few years ago.
It is a squeeze (you have to poke the connector down (up?) into the void where the esc sits, but having done that it's a nice snug fit.
I set my timer at 10 minutes (lack of concentration sets in after this) but there is normally 50 - 55% left so I reckon I could go to 15 minutes if I wanted to.
|Thread: Switching Brand|
Don't you come on here with your logic and balanced view, you'll get shot down!!
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