Here is a list of all the postings Gothiquity has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Tony Nijhuis Harvard - Build Log|
Quick question Geoff,
loving your build so far.
Just building the same kit at the moment, going IC though, however like you i intend to glass the whole plane.
Did you apply the fibre bandage to the under side wing joins as shown on the plan, or will the light weight fibre glass all over be enough ?
I'm no where near covering yet only have the tail plane, and wing centre section done so far
|Thread: Comper CLA-7 Swift|
All, if you look at page two of the posts, you see I asked Berndt about the section of the stabilizer/elevator and asked Berndt to take a side on, which he did. The photo provides a good idea of the section that was sanded to, before covering etc.
yes i was guessing there was an amount of " its up to the builder", half the fun of building from plan.
your doing well so far and im taking notes. if you do get stuck there is an email address for the designer so you can always ask him.
Bernd , the designer Phil Kent did do a pobjoy version of the comper but as Max Z has said it did feature a scale dummy engine with reduction gearbox and off set prop shaft. i'll be going the more simplistic route and sticking to the plan., when i build mine
Some excellent work there Bernd. keep the pictures coming they are really helping with seeing how it goes together. are you planning on having your battery horizontal or vertical ?
once my garage warms up a little i think i 'll be following your lead.
looking really good.
Can i ask a favour can you take a picture of the side view profile of the stabilizer & elevator so i can see how they have been shaped.
Also do you know how you are going to hinge it , plan shows small robart hinges , are you using that method or some other type of hinge ?
itching to start my build of the comper hope i can match your attention to detail
there is an indication where the battery should go marked on the plan , directly below the hatch. If it isnt on your plan let me know and i'll send you a photo of where it is marker on mine.
don't worry about using the old grey matter , that's half the fun trying to figure out where things go, no clear markings on my plan for servos, RX etc, but hey i'm sure i'll figure it out to achieve the correct COG
big oops moment for me Bernd just checked my wood pack and the tail-plane balsa core is there. your fuselage image ha already helped me out as there one piece i could quite see where it went ,so keep up the good work, your really making good progress.
Excellent work so far Bernd. I have thew same Sarik plan and kit waiting to built,, don't think mine came with the balsa core for the tail-plane though. Really looking forwards to how you tackle yours , but so far you have made a great start.
Always adviseable to listen to SWMBO
Edited By Gothiquity on 29/10/2018 18:50:34
|Thread: DB Sport & Scale Cirrus Moth 20E|
I've used new power in quite a few models and never had an issue so far ( much touching of wood). I know the hi-tech ones always get great reviews and are often a go to servo manufacturer but the price is steep, and as you correctly say with the suggested power source this is not a highly aerobatic model, lazy circuits at scale speed
Sounds like a good plan to stay away from dowel and band, would be interested in how you tackle that, if you reinforce the middle section of the lower wing with maybe some liteply and then have a couple of hardwood blocks epoxied into the fuselage, it should work, at least that what i was going to do.
Yes the saddle clamps in the kit are for securing the undercarriage to the lower wing, which makes it all the more handy to keep it fully assembled. BIt of a pain screwing and unscrewing saddle clamps.
There was so much detail on the larger ones that i wanted to apply to mine, like having the rudder controls come out the sides of the fuselage above the wing, but I'm hoping to get my eye in with a few more kits then re visit the moth and do a bigger one.
If you need any more pics or have any questions just shout, i'll do what I can, always happy to help a fellow flyer.
sorry forgot to mention i added 60 grammes of weight directly below the engine. Balances on the COG spot on
No problem Jon. happy to help where I can.
Yes i did use individual servos for the ailerons
Cable for servos runs through center of wing hidden beneath fuselage
Inside the fuselage i have the main servo tray for rudder (pull, pull) elevator and throttle, mounted again on a lite ply servo plate, this time using New Power XL-16 HM servos again no issue at all.
You can also see where i tucked the battery, a standard eneloop 4 cell directly below the fuel tank position. behind the engine firewall.
Regarding the lower wing , the elastic bands do not hold the under carriage on, at least not the way I've done it
I used two saddle clamps to keep the under carriage wire in the wing groove. Also thought id share a close up of my ever so neat ( if only) wiring work. The instructions said to just use thread but i just didn't trust thread for the job at hand so i used some fine copper wire i had around
as you have mentioned this front part does rotate, but you have to keep wiggling it as the epoxy dries .You can also see the aluminium cladding on the firewall , again to protect the wood from the messy engine.
Finally i'll mention the tail skid. I spent ages reinforcing the rear area before fitting the wire tail skid and i was pretty happy with it as it gave good ground clearance for the rudder and didn't adversely impact ground handling either , however after a nose over landing (don't you just hate them) i made the walk of shame to my moth and flipped in back onto its wheels and the tail skid snapped off. So i fudged another one from yet another saddlle clamp.
had to mount it on some lite ply to get the right ground clearance for the rudder not pretty or scale but works perfectly well.
The RX is located in the rear cockpit, seemed like the best place for it, allowed me to get the aerials away from the aluminium cladding.
Id have no qualms about buying this kit again, would maybe try mounting the engine inverted and fixing the lower wing with captive bolts, but other than that its a fine plane, I'm sure you will many happy hours(weather permitting) flying in great lazy circuits.
If you have any other questions or need more pics just let me know and i'll do what i can,
Cheers for now
Edited By Gothiquity on 24/02/2017 20:51:43
pics as promised, apolagies for the dust, decorating and planes just dont mix.
Yes i used the rubber bands for the lower wing, though to be honest i had considered using a captive bolt just never got round to it. The way its designed though when set up wit the interplane struts all you need to do is keep the lower wing in roughly the right place, which the fuselage cutout seems to do well enough. I have taxied without the bands on no issue wasn't quite tempted to take off without them though.
As i said i added the metal cladding to protect the wood from the fuel, I did consider mounting the engine inverted but that would have meant adding in a remote glow lead so all in all im happy with it. Looks pretty good though even if it isnt scale
Had a fudge with the interplane struts. messed up the split pins so used a hook and eye method instead and then a elastic band to keep both struts in place, works a treat no issues after a season of flying.
I'm sure you'll be happy with yours Jon, mine is pretty much on the money for AUW, had to add a little nose weight to get the right COG , but flies so well. Barely any trim needed, cracking little plane. am tempted by more of the DB range but too many plans and kits to do first. Once you get yours done post a pic , always good to see how someone else tackled the build, be interesting to see how you decide to mount the engine.
sorry for the very , very, very long abscence. Life gets in the way of flying
Yes did manage to complete the built with one or two mods, Will post some completed pics later.
She flys like a dream on the ASP30FS, just bumbles round the sky very scale like , no aerobatics at all, but that suits me fine, FS sounds great too. Have plated the cowl with aluminimum as my FS seems to chuck out quite a bit of slime so it helps protect the wood, didint bother with the plastic cowl and aluminium plated the engine bay too, looks kinda cool on the ground and in the sky, not scale but hey.
Must admit it has a brilliant presence in the sky and handles like a much larger aeroplane than it is. Handles wind ok up to 15MPH , could probably handle more but the pilot cant
Cant comment much on the rest of the build as it was pretty much text book stuff, didnt stray too much away from the instructions. Changed the way the interplane struts were attached but only because i messed up the split pin attachments.
Regarding the TE didnt have much issue at all, built over plan then sanded to profile , the cirrus has a straight wing through and i recall the tiggie has more of a sweep built into it , cant say for sure as havent seen that plan.
All in all i can highly recommend this plane, its fairly sedate but it doesn't bite either. The club I fly at are all pretty impressed with it , even when im flying it. Makes a nice change from all the foamie RTF stuff.
Also as a bonus i leave it fully setup, so no messing around with taking the wings off.
Moving house this year so builds firmly on hold, do have the follwoing though
oh well on with the decorating .will post pics later
cheers guys and sorry for the delay
Meant to mention I asked DB sport about the engine to use, and they suggested a 4 stroke would be better than the 2 , so I'm taking that option, have seen a lovely "YOU TUBE" clip of the 20E Moth flying with an OS30FS but that engine isn't made anymore so I think it will be the ASP 30, think I'm a while off worrying about the engine though, still got two more wings to build, the fuz and then servos etc. etc. etc.
Ok so more work done over the weekend , here is the wing tip built up
doesn't show well on the pic but it does have a curve from LE to TE. once this was dry came the bit I wasn't looking forwards to, cutting out the aileron.
It seems so counter intuitive after spending ages making the wing as good as possible to then cut part of it off.
Cant tell you how nervous I was making the first cut, think I measured it ten times anyway here is the end result, with one side of the aileron hinge fitted
The plan show a cross section of the aileron with a definite angled gap between the aileron and the rest of the wing. Using the ply control horn I was able to marry up this angle and trace it on to the aileron ribs .
Then it was just a case a creating an aileron end cap (another rib basically) fitting the control horn in place and gluing it all together.
which I have now done
Will crack on with the second lower wing next .
Many thanks for your support guys
Edited By Gothiquity on 27/07/2015 22:10:56
Ok guys, slow progress over the weekend partly as I was busy but also because I hit a snag.
Id come to assemble the wing tips, and had located the laser cut parts easily enough cut them free and after reading the plan carefully offered them up to the plan and they didn't fit.
However they seemed to fit if placed in the opposite order, much head scratching was in order as well as much searching in the WWW, however after checking everything and making sure I hadn't made yet another gigantic foul up, I contacted DB sport and scale, I explained the issue and sent them a photo of the issue. I was impressed when no more than an hour later I had an initial response, saying they thought I may be right but they would check the following day. The following day I got another e-mail saying I was right and they were surprised no one else had contacted them about it, I have asked permission from DB sport to post this and they are happy with doing so.
The picture shows the plan indicating where 238 and 239 should go, however 238 fits where 239 is shown and vice versa.
It was the only real explanation which may be why no one else has reported this back to DB sport, but at least I got it verified, and can continue with the build.
Edited By Gothiquity on 27/07/2015 22:01:01
Thanks for the speedy reply Geoff, some padding and sanding looks like the way to go, i could kick myself for such a basic mistake.
Well ignoring my mistake here are the pictures so far, thanks for all your comments and feedback, certainly feels like there are some very experienced modelers out there.
so this is the wing with the root rib set incorrectly, unfortunately Ive already sheeted and applied webbing, but im hoping all is not lost .
Upper TE is also applied, and although you cant see it there are two pieces of TE infill for the first two gaps from root.
So anyway made a start on second lower wing, learning from my mistakes on the first one,
so Ive dremmelled the servo wire holes, which is much neater than carving and hacking.
And whilst its not that apparent the wing tip is jacked up by 25mm to set the CORRECT dihedral .
Finally I've set the two pieces together which form the wing tip.
Not making more progress until glue has dried thoroughly .
Comments and feedback welcome as always, glad this build log is getting some of you inspired.
Ok guys I've made my first (and probably not last ) mistake. I thought i was being clever but I've done something stupid.
I set the root rib with the wing at a 50mm dihedral instead of 25mm. Luckily Ive spotted the mistake and not repeated it so my second lower wing is now at the correct angel.
Question is what do i do about the first wing, i cant really dig out the root rib and re set it, Im guessing it will be up to a couple of mm out when trying to join it with the central lower section.
Maybe I'm worrying over nothing but I'm tempted just to pad it with some thin balsa, any other recommendation s?
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