Here is a list of all the postings dirk tinck has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Fouga magister 1/4.5 moulded from scratch|
Hi Tony, it's a Standard gravity feed automotive spray gun with a 1.4 mm nozzle.
Please stay tuned,it will all be clear in a couple of ......weeks
I started last week with the preparations to mould the first flap.It's been a while sinds i have done some moulding so i need a little practice.
I placed the flap in a supporting foam block and glued it with a little epoxy after protecting it with some tape.This needs to be easy to remove so i don't damage the surface.Then surrounded the flap with casting plywood wich has a glossy surface for easy loosening.The upper side of the plywood has to be right in the centerline of the flap.Again , this is glued to the supporting foam block with epoxy with a little gap to the flap. This gap has to be filled with plasticine,it's like childrens clay and doesn't get hard.Again this is nessesary for easy removal once the first ,,shell'' is hard.Arround this frame, there is a vertical border glued in place to improve strenght of the mould.All that's left to do now is polish 7,yes SEVEN times with demoulding wax,put on the demoulding film (PVA,NOT the glue! it's a water based transparent demoulding film) and then i can paint-on the epoxy and glass-cloth layers. that forms the first mould half....
I hope you guy's can follow all this better with some foto's.
Before i go further with the process i will prepare the other flaps and the ailerons and the wings naturally.Guess we'll be at least two weeks busy !!
There's lots of video's on the net , check out HP textiles on you tube.
Wow ,Geoff !! That looks great ! And in record time !
I really regret i'm not into computers,and having no time to learn more of that stuf.
Succes with the Harvard !
|Thread: RBC kits A4 Skyhawk build|
Hi Jack,it's designed by Rob Bulk , he's on facebook if you need advice
|Thread: Fouga magister 1/4.5 moulded from scratch|
Hi Geoff , i've tried various tapes :chartpak , 3M fine line tape , even ordered ''special''nylon tape in the USA , but they all have specific problems :some break when you try to remove them , some leave glue residu , to thick , to thin , ...
With my little tool i can choose the dept of the lines,the width of the line(just take another dremel bit) but the great advantage is that i can make really tight curves by using templates.
For curved surfaces i use flexible templates and hold them in place with double sided adhesive tape.
An extrea pair of hands helps a lot too !!(Thanks Diana)
I also found that practice makes perfect ! especialy for lines that end up in another line.
Thanks for following Geoff !!
Hi Chris,thanks for replying and sticking with me !Next week will be interresting!!
Finally we're getting somewhere !!
Now the real moulding can begin:
When the paint is dry and hard,first thing to do is place every part (wings,flaps and ailerons)horizontal in a frame thatdevides the part in half.
To hard to explane without pics so i will leave you guys here untill next session !cheers !!
With a little hart i started to put on the lines but to my very supprise it worked very well !!Hardest part is to keep the ruler in the same position at all times,especially on curved surfaces !
After a lot of testing different scratching tools i decided to make something special.
Following a ruler to scratch a line is never been easy ,lots of things can go wrong ,different angle's of the tool , the pressure used to draw ,it all makes crappy lines , believe me !
So this is the plan :I want to draw the lines with a dremel tool equipped with a diamond engraving tip but you can't follow a ruler with this eather.
So, i want to use the dremel as a router , the tip being enclosed by a tube ,and the very end coming out of the tube.
Good evening gents !
After the primer becoming hard,the sanding begins again...Not one of my favorite jobs but very important ! You can't hide any defaults with paint so let's do it right.I prefer dry sanding with 400 grid paper on a sanding block.I know it makes a lot of dust but i hate to mess with water,besides that , you can blow away the dust after sanding,something impossible when you sanded with water,the dust sticks in every corner.I also use sanding guide :Before you start , spray a little black paint from a spray can over the primer.When sanding,try to sand the black away:Thats the moment to stop.The black paint will be in the deepest dents and scratshes so when you sanded all that away , the surface will be flat as a mirror!Don't fool yourself trying to sand away the black paint by following the uneven parts with one edge of the block,keep it flat !
That said and done,there's a big dicision ??to make :Are we doing panel lines or not ?And if we do :When ?before or after the paint ?
I guess it will set me back at least a week but hey , the result counts right ?
If i do it after painting there's no room for error but if i do it before,the paint might fill up the lines...So more testing...
Decided to bring them on BEFORE painting.
Stay tuned !!
Before sanding the primer,i'm going to let them rest a couple of days to harden.
meanwhile,i got the fuselage- mould from under the dust for cleaning ,polishing and waxing.
Untill next week !
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