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Member postings for Nigel R

Here is a list of all the postings Nigel R has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Warbird Flyers, highly tapered wings...
19/09/2019 16:24:18

Looks very nice Jon and I appreciate the thought, but sadly above my pay grade (and I don't have a 150!) - 60 class (at most) are more realistic for me.

I keep looking at the (very) simplified 61" Yak on outerzone (**LINK**) with a view to re-engineering some of the design and material choices to keep it light; size wise, keep it as is with a 70 (?) or a few % larger to suit the 90.

Simon, yes, now that is some taper.

Edited By Nigel R on 19/09/2019 16:24:44

Thread: Junior 60 Equipment Advice
19/09/2019 16:06:49

"Low stress flying like that builds the basic skills"

Bears repeating.

RC airplanes don't get a lot easier to fly. As Pete says it is easy to build basic skills if you are relaxed.

Moving to a quicker model then ups the game a bit, but the jump is not too much if you pick the right 'next' model.

Ass for the second, something like:

**LINK**

Thread: Are all chargers unreliable?
19/09/2019 11:39:24

"Overlander RC6-VSR 80W 7A AC/DC Charge"

Highly not recommended.

First one, repaired with a new internal PSU module. The original was complete and utter rubbish, as was the replacement which then also failed, at that point I decided to use a proper branded external laptop supply; the charger quite literally exploded when being connected to the mains later on.

Second one, the display went.

I gave up on Overlander at that point.

Currently using an 80W Imax B6 clone from Ebay, running on the same laptop PSU from the first overlander. Has been working perfectly for some time now. It's main omission is an internal fan - so I do point an external cooling fan at the thing.

Also using a Hobbyking Reaktor 300W single charger (another 4 button type) with a Reaktor 350W PSU. Also been working fine for a good while.

Thread: Warbird Flyers, highly tapered wings...
19/09/2019 11:15:06

Many thanks Jon, that's kind of confirmed what I thought. Essentially, just fly around the stall, you know it is there, these are airframes built for fast and smooth maneuvers anyway. I have flown airframes with some sharp stalls so I guess I would just expect more of the same.

I'm leaning toward the idea of a non scale plain flap and essentially using it as a landing brake for a final approach of "brakes on and 25% throttle".

Don with flaps down, the inboard section is at an effective higher AoA. I don't know that it has a very big effect as the stall (as I understand it) is mainly controlled by the shape at LE and the area of the wing immediately behind; the TE isn't in very clean air at this kind of airspeed.

18/09/2019 10:41:37

Thanks Bob

Ok not entirely de rigour!

I'm looking at club size too. 90 four stroke.

I find slippery models very tight on our patch. It is a short strip and from some directions a long low approach isn't a good idea unless you have a hedge proof airframe! Drag of some sort and the stepper approach that goes with it just makes life easier.

18/09/2019 09:41:26

I have a hankering to build a 60 some inch span Yak or Mig in the future.

But I confess, I have been at this game for a few years and have not actually flown a warbird with a set of highly tapered wings. Models with a 50% sort of taper, yes, a few, some with lots of sweepback, and I've not found any to be particularly badly behaved when it comes to landing or spin or any sign of high speed stalls.

But the more extreme tapers, no, not flown one. I'm thinking airframes like the Yak 1 or 9, or Mosquito, where tip chord is around 25% of root.

To those who do or have flown these types, how do you find their behaviour?

How much do typical warbird flaps improve or reduce (or even make worse) any tip stall tendencies?

Will I find much difference between split flap or plain flap here? (yes, I know, split were de rigeur in WW2, but I'm looking at a stand off build)

Thread: Irvine 61 new bearings
18/09/2019 09:30:20

Plain old newspaper works as a gasket here, IME.

Scalpel blade in a compass works wonders to make a lovely circular hole.

Then soak the paper in oil before tightening the backplate up and lastly cutting the excess off.

Thread: Miss Deeds or 1/4 semi scale Cassutt
17/09/2019 16:21:36

a systematic approach - otherwise known as doing a proper job, i.e. avoiding anything remotely like a bodge

works wonders in many areas of life

thanks for sharing the tip technique - must try this

Thread: push
17/09/2019 16:18:06

"what has got me foxed at the moment is the exhaust to prop clearance."

Just point it forward. It'll look a bit funny but will work fine.

Or

a) find a dustbin, or a pitts type, or some other compact silencer type

b) fit a pusher pipe (weston do them)

re, Tortuga drone, try:

**LINK**

note, prop in correct (!) place

a bit smaller than you are looking for but could easily be scaled up a bit

Thread: Miss Deeds or 1/4 semi scale Cassutt
17/09/2019 13:34:36

Interesting technique. I've always used a lump of Ecuador Gold for block tips, but this would seem that it could be lighter and cheaper.

What weight cloth have you used? Is it quite easy to get the tip to blend with the rest of the wing? Does it present any problems at covering time?

Thread: push
17/09/2019 13:28:28

you sure you're going to need a .53 in something weighing 3-1/2lb?

anyway, I thought the rule of thumb was, standard prop size, minus one inch diameter.

Thread: Extra Hot Chilli
17/09/2019 13:27:01

That looks ace Chris.

AX & FX always seem to run nicely, judging by the IC flyers at my club.

I've started covering on mine now - I've finished the nacelles (I found them quite fiddly with all the inside corners between them and the wing) which leaves me with "a regular model"s worth to go... definitely trying to get it in the air within the next few weeks.

Thread: Latest CAA Update
16/09/2019 17:22:50

"It seems mis-leading to me with "Areas of increased risk". Is there any such aeronautical term?"

No idea.

As for the yellow areas, there is one of these shown near me, where "gas venting" is taking place, which I believe is mains gas pipework that apparently (so says pprune) can form plumes of explosive gas that reach 5000ft on a dead calm day.

Thread: Design & Build Sport Twin
16/09/2019 17:16:37

Thank you cymaz

That sounds a sensible startup routine for multis. Having a good one seems to be a recurring theme, whenever I read anything about them. I think I may be investing a couple of sessions getting a routine going.

I'm paranoid about dirt in the fuel. Filtered from container I buy on its way into the jug that lives in the flight box, filter before the pump, filter between tank and engine. Probably overkill but so what.

My escape plan is just to deadstick it down. It should be fairly mild mannered with the rectangular wing. Practice approaches are high on the agenda for the first few flights.

Thread: Latest CAA Update
16/09/2019 11:37:58

re: the map, yes it works fine for me. just clicking on a coloured region brings up an explanation. An area with two overlapping coloured spaces results in an explanation for both spaces being displayed.

16/09/2019 11:33:37

...deleted, veering into politics there.

Edited By Nigel R on 16/09/2019 11:39:50

Thread: Miss Deeds or 1/4 semi scale Cassutt
15/09/2019 17:50:43

Erf these ultra low aspect ratio wings are real mild mannered animals near the stall. There is a lot of mushing before the break. Very tolerant beasts!

15/09/2019 17:24:33

Short for dad flyer I expect?

The webs are an integral part of the spar erf. Without them we do not have an I beam or C beam structure of course.

Dad flyer. Fully sheeted is a great method. It can be a little overkill with a built up wing where there are spar elements but with the lightest grade balsa sheeting you still end up with a light structure and it is tremendously rigid. Certainly more rigid than we really need I think as a million and one successful wings have been made using a d box construction. However the smoother surface is indeed a little easier to cover with film. It can be a little quicker to construct in my opinion too.

With a foam core wing then fully sheeted is necessary as the whole entity becomes a composite single structure.

Many ways to skin a cat.

Thread: Design & Build Sport Twin
15/09/2019 07:37:39

Crikey. A month since last update!

Well, I have not been too idle. The airframe is finished and covering started. One thing I have noticed with the nacelles on the wing is that there are a lot more nooks and crannies to get the film in to and this is taking "a bit longer" than expected!

Anyway. Part progress on the nacelle:

20190914_220509.jpg

As usual I am going for a white base with some coloured flashes on top.

Must find a bit more motivation from somewhere. Covering is probably my last favourite stage of a build if I am honest.

However on the plus side as soon as the film is on then it is time to go and fly smiley

Thread: Irvine .53 / Ugly Stik
14/09/2019 17:33:07

A .40 makes a 4lb model go pretty good.

And a .60 for a 6lb model.

I've never paid that much attention to wingspan when thinking about power.

Other opinions are available smiley

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