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Member postings for Nigel R

Here is a list of all the postings Nigel R has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: SCEN Puma 3
21/06/2017 09:26:16

Thanks Jonathan!

Got the top rear fuselage sheeting on. This is crossgrain mainly because the pieces supplied in the kit were too short for using lengthwise.


Fuelproofing for the tank area next, and time to get the fin/rudder sorted out.

I think I will leave the front half of the wing open for a while, so i can tweak the retract pushrod with the wing attached. I will need to get the wing and fuselage rigged up first of course.

Thread: Construction & repair tools
20/06/2017 14:55:22

also on fleabay **LINK**

19/06/2017 10:15:07

Assortment of sanding blocks.

Make your own from MDF - cost, very little, value, priceless.

The essential ones - a few 8" x 2" blocks, 80 & 150 grit.

Optionally... one or two 8" x 1" and 8" x 1/2"... A nice long 24" block for edge trueing sheet parts & very lightly running over wings before sheeting... A few different size dowels with paper wrapped around... Several bits of small HW of different widths for making slots.

It's worth making sure all the edges are at 90deg, so you can use the blocks sideways on the bench to get perfect 90deg edges to parts.

There's a good list of basic tools here: **LINK**

Thread: SCEN Puma 3
19/06/2017 08:29:53

I thought now was a good time to get the tank floor and fuel lines sorted out, before the top goes on and while I still had easy access to the tank area. Also a good time to get some 1/4 sq reinforcement on the firewall / fuselage joint.


6.5mm holes just neatly fit the fuel tube when it is over the brass tank fittings. Only two lines to the tank, I use the carb feed to fill and drain the tank. I used a countersink bit to clean up the holes - I don't want any splinters or sharp edges near the tube. A couple of trial runs show that when the tank is installed for real, I can draw the tank into place using the fuel lines. The fuel lines can then be cut to length and some silicon sealant smeared round the holes where they pass through the firewall. Obviously I don't plan on removing the tank very often but my experience is that tank removal is rarely necessary.


A tight fit between mount and engine. I relieved the nylon mount with a pair of concave recesses to allow the fuel line to pass unrestricted (sandpaper wrapped around a small dowel). If the engine was a few mm forward that wouldn't have been necessary. Bad planning on my part there, but easy enough to work around.

18/06/2017 10:53:38

Fuse is glued up and out the jig. Goes back in upside down just as easily - very happy with that.

Couldn't resist sitting it on the wing...


Thread: Long term build projects
16/06/2017 11:30:51

"That is: something that I know from the outset will take up to 10 years"

Your biggest problem is not degradation of materials or obsolescence.

It'll be whether you're still interested in 10 years time.

"It will be difficult to commit to particular hardware (e.g. servos, motor/engine, retracts) since technology will have moved on in that time."

Only if you are an "I must have the latest and greatest" follower of fashion.

A component that does is sufficient to do its job won't magically cease doing that job because ten years have passed. 35mhz radio still works. A 1960s glow engines will still run exactly as it used to. Etc. Yes, newer and "better" are available. So what?

Thread: Binding UC legs
16/06/2017 09:07:22

U/C legs don't need a subtle soldering iron.


You could use your gas torch, if you were happy to do so.

I only have a cheap and basic machine mart 100W iron very much like the ebay link, perfectly sufficient for this job.

Thread: BAT-SAFE
16/06/2017 08:23:08

Ray, that's genius.

Thread: Help with info on Lipo batteries
16/06/2017 08:18:47

" and I had a fire in the balance board."

So under normal use, the charger caught fire?

" is there a 'cure' for the charger"

Depends on what caused the fire. It is almost certainly not worth repairing IMO.

Personally, I would recommend a different brand.

All I will say is, it's one thing for a cheap motor or ESC to burn out in the air and take out a model, another thing for a mains supplied charger to overbake your lipos and set your garage on fire.

Thread: Wren 54 starter problem
16/06/2017 08:02:18

New product line for Laser coming soon?

Thread: Binding UC legs
15/06/2017 14:08:44

"When cleaning the wire use glass paper as carborundum in Emery cloth or wet and dry paper hinders soldering."

Every day's a school day!

I always use steel wool to clean up the wire.

15/06/2017 13:54:54

I used to use whatever my dad had pulled out of a handy length of multicore mains cable.

More than 3 or 6 turns though. The more the merrier - "together we stand" etc.

Haven't done any for years though.

Thread: Redundancy in larger models?
15/06/2017 13:33:04

The battery negative wire on the charger is not necessarily a ground. There's a fair chance that some of the peak detect circuit is snuck in between that negative connection and a nominal ground.

Hence, a bad idea to have a common connection between two batteries, when connecting them to two separate chargers. At the very least it will affect the sensitive peak detect circuitry. At worst, it might confuse the charger enough to overcook a battery (or conceivably the charger).

Thread: SCEN Puma 3
15/06/2017 12:29:31

Last few tidyups before glueing the basic fuselage structure.

At the very back, I added some vertical grain 1/16. Admittedly difficult to see in the photo.

What you can see are the horizontal pieces I made up to keep the sides pressed outward against the jig. They fit in at the same points as the formers would have gone. Without them, the differences in strength between longerons and fuselage sides mean you end up with an unequal taper.


Thread: Castor Oil
14/06/2017 14:35:37

Jon, I understand you're intending on changing to a 10% minimum recommendation for Lasers?

Is it "close enough" to use a mix of a gallon of one of MT's 18% oil blends + gallon straight methanol?

Thread: SCEN Puma 3
13/06/2017 12:54:03

Thanks Tim!

Once I had the sides and main formers in the jig, with the sides pulled together at the rear, lay a length of 1/4" sq (or similar), placed direct over the jig / fuselage centreline - mark off each side of that, and that gives a nice indication of where to sand the taper. I left about 1/16" on each side to do any necessary fine tuning of the angle. But you can get very close on the first go. It's a bit of a fiddle doing the last bit, a few times in and out of the jig so there's some room for improvement in my technique! There's a pictoral of the idea at the bottom of this page:


I wish I could claim credit for it!

13/06/2017 08:30:39

Ok, not steering link. Instead, I tidied up the fuselage sides in preparation for glue-up, I added the block infill at the tailpost, and the 3 uprights.


The uprights are all from scrap 1/8". The kit supplied ply formers to go at these locations but I think that's complete overkill.

I also sanded the tailpost area to its proper taper so the sides meet nicely.

Ran out of workshop time before I got any doublers on around the tailplane cutout. These will be (probably) from 1/8" scrap again.

Thread: Which first kit?
12/06/2017 14:48:28

"To be fair, the Gangster 63 Lite build would be a better grounding than the Acrowot, as the Gangster is all built up while the Acrowot kit uses foam wings."

On the other hand... Foam wing, quite easy to get right, a symmetrical tapered balsa build, less so.

Having said that I have no experience of the latest laser cut marvels.

12/06/2017 11:33:23

"Any suggestion on which materials to work with and any beginner kits ?"


Pegasus Models also do the 'Magician' which is comparable size & characteristics to the Acrowot. The design has been around for as long as the Acrowot and is as good a flyer. Also quite keenly priced! Has a foam wing which is (IMO) a good thing for a new builder looking at this kind of model, as it removes the "building an accurate symmetrical wing" problem.

Edited By Nigel R on 12/06/2017 11:36:47

Thread: Redundancy in larger models?
12/06/2017 09:33:08

Just caught up with this thread, some great points, but worth highlighting:

"An internally mounted switch in a soft mount, with, say a piece of fishing line through it to turn it on and off, would go a long way to improving its reliability."

Mechanical elements are (in my day job experience) the highest chance of failure. Electrical failure is usually a much lesser problem. Anything we can do to reduce the mechanical sources is of higher value than the electrical fixes.

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