By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more

Member postings for Nigel R

Here is a list of all the postings Nigel R has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: OS 46 FX
27/02/2019 15:22:36

My mistake.

**LINK**

S46203 ASP 46 Piston & Liner

Price: £37.04 (Including VAT at 20%

27/02/2019 14:14:48

Just Engines don't currently have any ASP stuff - until after their factory relocates - according to the JE website.

Parts engine?

f:0">https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/rc-plane-nitro-engine-SC-46/273726999102?hash=item3fbb668a3e:g:8jkAAOSw4AJccpr9:rk:2f:0

27/02/2019 10:58:08

I doubt the AX will interchange with the FX, the engine looks fundamentally different, 4 bolts not 6, which indicates the porting may well be in different places.

Maybe worth searching out a parts engine on ebay, or even a complete 46 to run, a used one is around £30.

Thread: Chilli Breeze from Sarik Plan, Electric Conversion.
27/02/2019 10:39:40

Well spotted kc, fuselage mounted U/C definitely favours a ply doubler, and I'd agree with tapering it. I'd draw a straight line from top of the firewall to a point about 1" above the wing TE though, just to give a bit of meat across the wing saddle.

Torque rod U/Cs are great shout too. They have a lot more "give" than a plate aluminium gear, and lighter too. Quite simple to bend up. I try to pattern the leg like a 3:4:5 triangle, that is, make the leg itself 5", bend it so that it drops 3" and projects outward 4". The exact dimensions will just need scaling appropriately, but this is kind of about Chilli size:

20-size-torque-uc.jpg

You just need a 1/8" ply plate on the fuselage underside. Several bits of 1/8" birch ply or 1/8" spruce go above the plate and hold the torque arms in place.

On a low winger I would stick the U/C on the wing though. You can get the wheels further apart and the whole thing is thus a bit more stable.

Thread: Death of a Fun-Fly.
26/02/2019 16:16:56

Not particularly massive issues, but the relevant ones for us are.

Low charge behaviour is a bit "instant off".

Lifespan is lower than nimh, I believe.

Capacity per unit weight about the same as nimh, not a problem per se, but worth considering.

Lithium is generally physical fragility. Not a specific issue for us on well installed and nicely padded flight packs.

Need to be balanced when charging. Not a particular issue with the chargers that are around now.

26/02/2019 14:18:17

Jon, discharge at 1C, it will give a better idea of the internal resistance. Batteries of all sorts can still hold a good capacity but be a bit useless at holding up terminal voltage when it comes to pushing out the amps.

Although worth noting, at rates around 0.1C you should get 100% of marked capacity out of the discharge (or very close to).

"going over to LiFes which the general consensus deems to be superior"

LiFes have their own set of issues.

The low discharge nimhs are a solid, well developed technology.

YMMV.

Edited By Nigel R on 26/02/2019 14:20:51

Thread: HobbyKing Why did I order from HobbyKing?????
26/02/2019 14:10:45

Wait, do I get the order correct?

  • You've ordered.
  • Stuff hasn't arrived.
  • You've checked online, it says in stock. You contact customer services, they say out of stock, so no dispatch.
  • You say, can I have a refund?
  • They say, dangerous goods, can't have refund.

Thread: Chilli Breeze from Sarik Plan, Electric Conversion.
26/02/2019 13:40:06

Yes, definitely use spar webs. Weight, almost nothing, increased resistance to warp and bending, lots. It's not belt and braces, the webs simply complete the D box structure, without them it is only part formed.

I'd personally never use smaller than a HS225 on the tail surfaces on something this size, and HS81 for ailerons. Preferably in metal gear flavours. 9g are ok for park flyers that weigh 1/2lb.

Other opinions are available.

Thread: Flair Cub wings available
26/02/2019 11:55:44

"I find the 'no demand' extraordinary"

I don't know why. The majority of flyers buy ARTF, given the choice.

Ask Willis of Warbirds why he isn't producing kits any more.

And his were well liked, and popular on here.

Thread: HobbyKing Why did I order from HobbyKing?????
26/02/2019 11:03:15

I can only add to the above experiences. I have made lots of orders, with no problems.

What size/brand lipo is the offending article?

Thread: LED Bulbs pt3
25/02/2019 17:16:36

What is the module?

Thread: Death of a Fun-Fly.
25/02/2019 16:31:17

I think I see where you're going. But. If I'm honest, I think you've got a MOAS request there.

And you can't really tell what the battery is like without doing a full discharge.

A simple gadget such as Denis linked to, is enough for confidence checking at the field. Plug in, green or red light - fly if green.

The other factor is, pick the right battery. We could do 'rules of thumb' for that, given a certain servo setup, easy enough, I guess.

Thread: Servo query
25/02/2019 13:24:12

HS82MGs would be top of my shopping list.

Thread: Death of a Fun-Fly.
25/02/2019 13:17:49

"and other than a fairly basic load checker I'm surprised more hasnt been done in this area"

What is it that you think hasn't been done?

25/02/2019 11:31:18

Don has it in a nutshell.

Most (I believe) of the 4 button chargers will also discharge a pack at a couple of amps. Ideal for testing nimh packs.

If the pack is a standard 4 cell eneloop AA type (2500mAh), then use a 6V cutoff and a 2.5A discharge rate. A freshly charged pack should go about 50 minutes before the the charger indicates done, and it should report around 2000mAh of total discharge capacity. Anything less is indicating old age and grumpiness.

A 5 cell pack, just use 7.2V instead of 6V, as the cutoff.

As for charging, you are right, 250mA constant trickle is best. Manufacturer datasheets usually state 16 hours for a complete charge. We are rarely charging from dead flat though, so the overnight routine is (generally) enough. Packs will typically be slightly warm at the end of the cycle. Warm is ok and to be expected. Hot, much less good, also an indication of the pack becoming a bit reluctant to put out full current if asked.

E&OE, if anyone has more correct numbers please correct me!

Thread: Seagull Models - Arising Star Refit
21/02/2019 16:07:28

Looking good.

Is it all liteply in the fuselage?

Thread: Nigel Hawes Whizzza Power Train Query
21/02/2019 16:00:26

The last speedy model I flew, of similar size although a bit heavier, I used a 1250kv motor on 4 cells, with a 6x6 prop. It was quite rapid. 500W fresh down to 400W at empty. RPM (I guess) around 15k.

I think it'll be tough to get the speed up with 3 cells and 1000kv. Maybe a 9x7 or 9x8 and see what (a) the wattmeter says and (b) flight performance is. RPM will only be 8k. This feels more like a low speed setup type motor.

So if I'm honest, I wouldn't use the 1000kv motor, I'd look at a motor with 1500kv minimum, or even higher. I have a 2836 size with 2200kv that draws 400W on a 6x4 with 3 cells, which would be in the right region for this model I think.

21/02/2019 14:48:05

That's quite a lipo to squeeze into a 2.5lb model. Still, if it goes.

What prop are you going with?

21/02/2019 12:04:51

What lipo are you going to use?

Thread: Glass Slipper 2
20/02/2019 23:46:14

It looks the business! Good luck on the maiden.

Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of RCM&E? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!

Find RCM&E! 

Support Our Partners
CML
Motion RC
Slec
Wings & Wheels 2018
Revoc
Pepe Aircraft
electricwingman 2017
Gliders Distribution
Advertise With Us
Sarik
Latest "For Sale" Ads
Does your club have a safety officer?
Q: Does your club have a safety officer, or is the emphasis on individual members to each be their own safety officer?

 Yes we have a SO
 No, it's down to everyone

Latest Reviews
Digital Back Issues

RCM&E Digital Back Issues

Contact us

Contact us