Here is a list of all the postings Simon Feather has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Ammo box|
I second (third?) the views about ammo boxes, great things; just be careful when shutting the lid that you haven't trapped any of the battery leads....
|Thread: workbench design?|
Alex - I've done lots of vice work on the one I got from eBay, and have had no quibbles or issues so far; it's remarkable value!
I got one of these from fleabay:
5' workbench for £80 delivered - remarkable value and very solid, my building boards rest on top to be moved around as necessary. Other sizes are available. Definitely recommended. Unless you already have the materials to hand, I doubt you could buy the bits to make it yourself for these prices! I've added power distribution panels on the two front verticals.
|Thread: Ever wondered why the engine won’t start?|
... and I not only mark the tank, but I colour code the fuel tubes too. Clear for the fuel line to the carb, blue is the pressure line to the exhaust (after all, exhaust gases are slightly blue, aren't they), and pink is the fill line. Saves any confusion once the tubes have been poked through to the engine compartment!
|Thread: Printing of plans|
If you don't have a local copy shop that charges reasonable prices, I have had success dealing with Planprint It, available here: www.planprint-it.co.uk **LINK**. My Kwik-Fli 3 was built from plans they printed for me. They do custom sizes and next day delivery from an uploaded PDF. Prices seemed reasonable to me though there is of course a delivery charge.
There was a thread on this a little while back - see here for some suggestions and more examples:
|Thread: Forum Members Old Heaps: Let's See Them!|
Go on then, here's my contribution.
I didn't build this, I obtained it from a club sale for very few modelling tokens, the intention being to use it as a windy day and limbo event hack. It's an old Precedent fun-fly, one of the originals with the foam core wing, so goodness knows how old it is. This picture makes it look reasonably tidy, but it's definitely been very much pre-loved! It even has mismatched wheels...
If you should happen to recognise this model as originally yours, you may like to know it's back in regular use and flying very nicely in virtually any conditions. The engine was seized when I got it, but I freed it up and ran it for a while, had quite a few flights with the original FP40. But it was very worn, lots of play and very leaky, so I treated it to a new FP40 that I found BNIB. It's a good fun hack that I don't mind using in what we call "crashing" weather round here!
|Thread: Max Thrust Ruckus|
Hi, one of our club members has a Ruckus which he seems happy with - he too had the undercarriage problem, which he cured simply by fitting it on backwards....
|Thread: Kwik Fli 3 - 50th anniversary build|
Hi Daniel, yes I still regularly fly this. If you build one at the original scale (i.e. 60" wingspan), remember that it was designed for the 60-size engines of the late 1960s, so a modern 61 provides really sparkling performance in the air and virtually unlimited verticals. You might get away with a modern 52 maybe but I wouldn't go any smaller - even with the modern 61, the take-off run is quite long and you have to be sure it's got airspeed before rotating. If you're looking for something for a smaller engine, look at Martyn Kinder's Kwik Fli 40 **LINK** or the more recent Flea Fli **LINK** threads
|Thread: Eureka moments|
I too use an appropriately sized jewellers' screwdriver - actually, the one in the set that comes with a sharp point rather than a blade. But put all four ferrules on the shaft at the same time in a stack, then inserting them is very quick and easy indeed.
... and biros
|Thread: Kwik Fli 3 - 50th anniversary build|
Yes, I used a standard nylon mount: I don't like not having free access to the engine, so I made the cowl removable, and basically shaped it around the engine. Plenty of room for the 61FX with this approach. Following pictures should hopefully be more or less self explanatory: I glued some hardwood blocks to the firewall to give hard mountpoints for the cowl, then screwed some thin ply onto these after protecting them with sellotape. Then mount the engine - the black mount in the pictures isn't the one I used in the end as it was too large.
I then used a sacrificial plastic spinner base plate tack glued to the nose ring with spacers, fix that to the prop shaft, then start gluing lumps of balsa on between the ply mounts and the nose ring. Once all dry, remove the spinner base plate, remove the cowl, remove the engine, refit the cowl and sand to shape. Result is a tailor-made cowl that fits well but is removable easily for engine maintenance. Works a treat.
Roughly sanded to shape:
Checking fit - cutout for exhaust still needed:
Final cowl, which I glassed on the inside and covered with film on the outside:
Hope this helps!
|Thread: yobmot or backwards Tomboy|
Peter - on the Cub, I think it just LOOKs like the controls are facing into wind.... I think the "ailerons", "elevator" etc are just drawn on lines, and if you look carefully at the still shots around 3min 30 into the video, you can just about see new "ailerons" on the "front" of the wing. With the added dihedral on this model, that could perhaps mean this is behaving like a 3 channel V-tail or flying wing with a simple canard. Speculation... the result is undoubtedly very effective though.
Here's a Cub doing the same, looks like this guy took a similar approach:
Edited By Simon Feather on 25/07/2018 16:45:52
|Thread: Scale resources - Pensacola Naval Aviation museum|
For anyone interested in referring to original prototypes for scale modelling - or even just for general interest - I recently found this website for the National Naval Aviation museum at Pensacola, Florida:
Of especial interest is the virtual tour that lets you wander around the museum and zoom in on exhibits (click the virtual tour link at the top of their home page, or here for convenience: **LINK**)
Of very especial interest are the cockpit 360 degree views that sit you in the pilot or gunner's seat and let you have a really good look around! You can sit in a ME262 or SBD Dauntless pilot's seat and many more... fantastic stuff. Look for the "Cockpits" button at the bottom left of the virtual tour.
Enjoy, I did
|Thread: Durafly (Hobbyking)new Canadian Vampire compared to old Vampire|
I have two as well - as pointed out the u/c isn't great, especially the nosewheel steering. I took the u/c off, filled in the wheel wells, and hand launch, goes away a treat. Stiffened booms a must. Here's one of mine after being treated to a paint job after it went in the river due to the LVC kicking in on a very cold day last winter: no ill effects, everything dried out and off it goes again. I fly on 2700 4S, and have recorded 16 min flights - use power to climb then glide for a few circuits, very smooth and relaxing. But full on low passes are fun too! Fantastic little model.
The canopy is brittle and can break very easily; but I made a plug and vacformed my own.
|Thread: Work Bench Protection|
Mine has removable boards on it made of 1/2" veneered MDF offcuts from a kitchen refurb, to which have been glued two thicknesses of (sacrificial) cork tiles, good for pinning into and absorbs scalpel cuts when trimming, and the boards can be moved around to get the best fit as needed depending on the job in hand e.g. wing building, or to form basic shooting boards for sanding edges, or whatever. Very flexible and easy to replace a tile if one gets too bad. The cork tiles came with a surface treatment as they were intended for bathroom use.
|Thread: Circlip for Freewing front retract|
+1 for the servo fixing screws, and not just used for servos! I've used them to fix cowls and all sorts of other stuff.
Re the circlip - they do an identification service too, I believe, where you send them something and they send it back with the matched part, so if you were in any doubt as to what to order that could work.
|Thread: Hardwood stiffener|
I'm feeling depressed already...
|Thread: vinyl cutters|
I heart my Silhouette Portrait.
I've done paint masks for clubmates (e.g. a large Miles Hawk), and one of the first things I did was our club logo, scanned from an old sticker, now I can do highly detailed any size any colour I want as long as it fits on the print bed:
and everything on here - roundels, numbers, and including the intricate (but upside down - oops) Yorkshire Rose was done on the Silhouette:
value for money = 11 / 10
The Portrait is a bit cheaper than the Cameo, I've not compared them directly but the Portrait has managed to do everything I've needed and in spades!
Blades aren't cheap,around £9, but I've done a lot of cutting and not had to replace it yet.
If you've not already got some, I recommend you get some transfer tape - this lets you cut intricate markings, weed them, then use the transfer tape to move all the separate bits as a single entity to your model.
The other most useful item is a simple domestic spray bottle filled with a mild detergent mix: spray this on first, then the fresh decals can be slid around precisely until you're happy with the positioning, then squeegeed out. Without this, you have exactly one go to get it right...
Edited By Simon Feather on 19/06/2018 23:04:24
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