Here is a list of all the postings Simon Feather has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Simon's Grumpy Tigercub|
Two engines running.... Start of ground tests.. Sounds awesome!
Well, wasn't it a long time ago I last posted on here...
I hit a snag with the fit of the nacelles to the wing, so the build stalled, and then... other priorities happened as they do.
The recent lockdown prompted me to get the GTC back on the bench again, and things have progressed. Not as quickly as I'd like, because I'm neither retired nor furloughed, and work has actually been busier, so time is limited. But some progress has been made as can be seen from the pictures below.
As a reminder, this is Peter's Grumpy Tiger Cub, but enlarged to 70" wingspan.
I have put aileron servos in the wings as I always do, and added flaps. Power is 2x OS 52 Surpass - I have acquired two new-in-box never seen fuel engines for this. What a treat to fire those up for running in! Both started on the first turn of the starter.
Ignition uses a Hobbyking glow starter in the central wing section (the type that fires up the plug for 15s after you press the button), with a three way switch to control which engine the electons get sent to. 500mAh 2s Lipo provides a huge number of starts on a charge!
Covering is a mix of Hobbyking and Easycoat. Not so impressed by the Easycoat personally, I found it too easy for the glue layer to delaminate from the film, and the glue is coloured and stains the wood. Markings are vinyl cut on a Silhoutte cutter, more to be added yet...
Not done the canopy yet - once I've test flown it, I'll make a plug and vacform one.
Engines are run in, hopefully doing engine matching and ground tests later this week or sometime next week and maiden.
Edited By Simon Feather on 01/07/2020 18:21:13
|Thread: Things that have dropped off in flight|
The problem with inverted glow engines is that the glowstick isn't immediately visible as you walk out... I've twice taken off with it still attached... only to spot it sticking out from underneath as the model passes in the circuit.
Once I landed with it still attached. Once... it wasn't. Never did find it.
|Thread: Lockdown Models|
Here's mine. Although I'm still at work, and very busy (perils of working in IT), my evening activities have been curbed so I've resurrected my 2018 MB project, Peter Miller's Grumpy Tiger Cub enlarged to approx 130%. I got stuck on the nacelle fitting to the wings, and then other projects took over, so it got shelved. Now it's unshelved, and almost to the point of covering.
I'll do a proper update on my GTC build thread at some point, but here's a couple of pictures of where it's at, all parts roughly taped together to get an impression of the final result. Enlarged to 70" wingspan, a pair of OS52 Surpass four strokes will drive it. Still got all the access hatches underneath to do, final tidying up and fixtures and fittings.
|Thread: Insanity seems to be setting in|
I did my panic buying yesterday. £150ish spent in MSL on balsa and other miscellaneous supplies... Got Peter Miller's 130% GTC to finish amongst others!
|Thread: WW1 linen style covering|
Or, is this the sort of thing you are looking for?
This is a model I am recovering, a 60" ME109. I'm trying out lightweight Ceconite, which has been around for years as a lightweight aircraft fabric. I'm using the uncertified grade, which is used in the full size world on microlights and gliders. It's a heat shrink fabric weighing 1.87 oz per sq. yard, and quite strong.
it's just the fabric - so like the other fabrics discussed here, you have to glue it, shrink it, then dope to fill the weave, then a coat of primer then paint as you like. As you can see from the above, it goes round corners a treat. I used Balsaloc then ironed it on just like Solartex, ever so easy (woodworking PVA also works well).
Comes from here:
it's £7.98 a yard - but a yard is 70" wide, and I used just over a yard to recover this 60" bird.
The downside if ordering from above is the postage - they send it rolled on a long tube, so it incurs a hefty courier charge. But if you're happy for them to fold it, postage is a lot cheaper...it shrinks quite aggressively so creases should iron out ok. I'll try that on some scraps next time I'm in the workshop.
I'm a convert!
|Thread: Any clock experts here?|
I found a couple of references - there seem to be two possible reasons for having the two main springs.
- to maintain the drive so the clock never runs down - the idea being that you wind alternate sides on alternate days;
- or to provide extra power to drive ancillary gear e.g. a clocking-in stamp
Lots of theories!
|Thread: Spektrum newbie|
Chris, yes absolutely: I fly mode 1 DX8 and have a mode 2 DX6 in my transmitter case bound to the DX8 master exactly for that reason, so I can fly mode 1 but train mode 2 flyers.
Just be aware that the Master set is the set that is bound to your model and is the set that will be used by the instructor, and the Slave set will be the one that you use. So typically your instructor will bind your model to his transmitter, get it all set up and trimmed and bind your transmitter to his as the slave. There may well already be the necessary equipment in the club.
|Thread: VQ Models Cap 10 60 Size|
Steve - this link to the build manual might help. Looks like it doesn't.
|Thread: Dynam Waco?|
Hi Simon - I have one that I got about 4-5 years ago. Fin and horizontal stab both warped out of the box, but I fixed mine with some heat then embedded carbon strip. See pictures to show how bad it was:
The paint job was dire: the black strips just didn't line up - by about 0.5cm on the top wing! - and the rectangles on the bottom wing were far from square and with loads of overspray. I repainted all the black and touched up the yellow, then the whole thing got a coat of lacquer as the matt yellow paint is very susceptible to damage and looks tatty very quickly.
Other things I did:
The decals are particularly tricky to fit accurately, but if you've lacquered yours, you can use the soapy water trick to give you a better chance.
I fly it on 2700mAH 4S, works fine with the battery pushed fairly far forward. It's a Dynam, if you are at all fussy about your models, expect to do some work to get it to your liking.
|Thread: Latest CAA Update|
Here is an interesting thing I've just stumbled on when looking at the Parliament "petitions" website:
Now does that sound at all familiar?
|Thread: Waterproof glue|
I seem to remember from my very early modelling days (mid 70s) that Cascamite was the glue of choice for building model boats - powder mixed with water to activate it. It's still available....
|Thread: Who said it would never happen in our lifetime|
Here you go: this is what powers the Alice, and suitable for retro-fitting to Otters and Beavers, they say, for ranges up to 1000 miles.**LINK**
|Thread: TomBoy 48" kit|
remember this other Tomboy thread....
|Thread: Suitable caption?|
Attack of the Drones!
(with apologies to George Lucas)
|Thread: FLOUREONŽ Lipos|
Nigel - Oh yes, mea culpa, sorry! insufficient attention to detail juggling this whilst working.... Sorry!
I have some Floureon 3S 2200s which have outlasted all my Turnigy 3S batteries. and by a considerable margin. Over 4 years old now, and absolutely no sign of puffing, they have probably been used hundreds of times. Mine came from Amazon originally, and I see Amazon are currently selling two Floureon 3s 35C 2200s for £25.99 with free delivery, but there's a checkbox to say "apply voucher" which will give you £2 off that.
|Thread: Burn Crispy Aviators|
The app is well worth having on your phone - I do - so that if you need the emergency services in the middle of a field you don't have to try and describe how you got there, just say "here I am". It's already saved lives apparently.
Just in front of our flightline is Flown.Mile.Grass.
|Thread: Square Rx 4.8v batts.|
an alternative, if space is tight or of an awkward shape, is to use a BEC with small Lipo - perhaps worth considering. I've done this, not so far to replace a flight battery, but using a 2s Lipo and a Hobbyking BEC to power electric retracts separately to using flight battery juice. This installation can be very compact.
|Thread: Batt, problem mobile drill|
I had a similar problem with a Bosch cordless drill, battery pack stopped accepting charge. Bosch replacements were silly money, no-name replacements from Fleabay were a bit better; but simplest solution was to take the battery out of the plastic case and retrofit the battery case with an XT60 plug; now it's much more powerful than before when driven off an old non-flightworthy 3S 2200.
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