Here is a list of all the postings Simon Feather has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: WW1 linen style covering|
Or, is this the sort of thing you are looking for?
This is a model I am recovering, a 60" ME109. I'm trying out lightweight Ceconite, which has been around for years as a lightweight aircraft fabric. I'm using the uncertified grade, which is used in the full size world on microlights and gliders. It's a heat shrink fabric weighing 1.87 oz per sq. yard, and quite strong.
it's just the fabric - so like the other fabrics discussed here, you have to glue it, shrink it, then dope to fill the weave, then a coat of primer then paint as you like. As you can see from the above, it goes round corners a treat. I used Balsaloc then ironed it on just like Solartex, ever so easy (woodworking PVA also works well).
Comes from here:
it's £7.98 a yard - but a yard is 70" wide, and I used just over a yard to recover this 60" bird.
The downside if ordering from above is the postage - they send it rolled on a long tube, so it incurs a hefty courier charge. But if you're happy for them to fold it, postage is a lot cheaper...it shrinks quite aggressively so creases should iron out ok. I'll try that on some scraps next time I'm in the workshop.
I'm a convert!
|Thread: Any clock experts here?|
I found a couple of references - there seem to be two possible reasons for having the two main springs.
- to maintain the drive so the clock never runs down - the idea being that you wind alternate sides on alternate days;
- or to provide extra power to drive ancillary gear e.g. a clocking-in stamp
Lots of theories!
|Thread: Spektrum newbie|
Chris, yes absolutely: I fly mode 1 DX8 and have a mode 2 DX6 in my transmitter case bound to the DX8 master exactly for that reason, so I can fly mode 1 but train mode 2 flyers.
Just be aware that the Master set is the set that is bound to your model and is the set that will be used by the instructor, and the Slave set will be the one that you use. So typically your instructor will bind your model to his transmitter, get it all set up and trimmed and bind your transmitter to his as the slave. There may well already be the necessary equipment in the club.
|Thread: VQ Models Cap 10 60 Size|
Steve - this link to the build manual might help. Looks like it doesn't.
|Thread: Dynam Waco?|
Hi Simon - I have one that I got about 4-5 years ago. Fin and horizontal stab both warped out of the box, but I fixed mine with some heat then embedded carbon strip. See pictures to show how bad it was:
The paint job was dire: the black strips just didn't line up - by about 0.5cm on the top wing! - and the rectangles on the bottom wing were far from square and with loads of overspray. I repainted all the black and touched up the yellow, then the whole thing got a coat of lacquer as the matt yellow paint is very susceptible to damage and looks tatty very quickly.
Other things I did:
The decals are particularly tricky to fit accurately, but if you've lacquered yours, you can use the soapy water trick to give you a better chance.
I fly it on 2700mAH 4S, works fine with the battery pushed fairly far forward. It's a Dynam, if you are at all fussy about your models, expect to do some work to get it to your liking.
|Thread: Latest CAA Update|
Here is an interesting thing I've just stumbled on when looking at the Parliament "petitions" website:
Now does that sound at all familiar?
|Thread: Waterproof glue|
I seem to remember from my very early modelling days (mid 70s) that Cascamite was the glue of choice for building model boats - powder mixed with water to activate it. It's still available....
|Thread: Who said it would never happen in our lifetime|
Here you go: this is what powers the Alice, and suitable for retro-fitting to Otters and Beavers, they say, for ranges up to 1000 miles.**LINK**
|Thread: TomBoy 48" kit|
remember this other Tomboy thread....
|Thread: Suitable caption?|
Attack of the Drones!
(with apologies to George Lucas)
|Thread: FLOUREON« Lipos|
Nigel - Oh yes, mea culpa, sorry! insufficient attention to detail juggling this whilst working.... Sorry!
I have some Floureon 3S 2200s which have outlasted all my Turnigy 3S batteries. and by a considerable margin. Over 4 years old now, and absolutely no sign of puffing, they have probably been used hundreds of times. Mine came from Amazon originally, and I see Amazon are currently selling two Floureon 3s 35C 2200s for £25.99 with free delivery, but there's a checkbox to say "apply voucher" which will give you £2 off that.
|Thread: Burn Crispy Aviators|
The app is well worth having on your phone - I do - so that if you need the emergency services in the middle of a field you don't have to try and describe how you got there, just say "here I am". It's already saved lives apparently.
Just in front of our flightline is Flown.Mile.Grass.
|Thread: Square Rx 4.8v batts.|
an alternative, if space is tight or of an awkward shape, is to use a BEC with small Lipo - perhaps worth considering. I've done this, not so far to replace a flight battery, but using a 2s Lipo and a Hobbyking BEC to power electric retracts separately to using flight battery juice. This installation can be very compact.
|Thread: Batt, problem mobile drill|
I had a similar problem with a Bosch cordless drill, battery pack stopped accepting charge. Bosch replacements were silly money, no-name replacements from Fleabay were a bit better; but simplest solution was to take the battery out of the plastic case and retrofit the battery case with an XT60 plug; now it's much more powerful than before when driven off an old non-flightworthy 3S 2200.
|Thread: Film covering to repair "alumium" Mustang wing|
Steve - I have some of the "silver" HK film. They do two versions, so watch out if you do order that... one has a brushed finish, and so one needs to ensure the brushing marks go the "right" way if you use it. I've used the non-brushed finish on the Skywriter I built:
Impossible of course to tell from the picture whether this will match or not, but I'm happy to send you some samples for colour matching if you like to PM me.
|Thread: Hurricane - 303 Movie Due For Imminent Release|
Hear hear Colin. I merely pointed out that the film is now available. It tells a story - how accurately I am not in a position to tell, and my personal opinion was that much of it looked as though it might have filmed against green screen as there was a lot of "flatness" in some of the imagery. But I am no expert, so I can't tell - I do know that some of it appeared rough around the edges which one has come not to expect from modern CGI. Perhaps it was lower budget than recent blockbusters.
Some of the shots do show very clearly how weathered and battle-worn the aircraft were, not like our pristine showroom models.
It tells a valuable and little-known story, whatever its shortcomings in our "expert" eyes. Watch it - or not - in the spirit it was intended and with an uncritical eye on the flying scenes.
You may like to know that this film "Hurricane", about Polish squadron 303 is now available on Netflix if you have access to that.
I watched it the other day - many of the flying scenes look a bit fake, unfortunate in these days of high quality CGI; but it's good that the story has been told. As noted above by FilmBuff - it's a drama, not a documentary. Some nice static shots of planes on the ground. I did feel it left a lot of "joining the dots" for the viewer to do.
|Thread: Drilling ply/balsa|
For balsa and soft ply (i.e. liteply) , a piece of brass tubing of the right diameter, sharpened on the inside (needle file or conical grinder on your dremel) works brilliantly and makes a very clean hole, as it's cutting not drilling. Run it slowly and clamp your work to a sacrificial backing for a clean exit cut.
|Thread: Spektrum AR 620|
Bruce - I have! Summary: very impressed.
Look at my thread here:
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