Here is a list of all the postings BackinBlack has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: MSE Cheap Energy Club|
I've made the switch from EOn to British Gas. My tariffs are:
Electricity:- 8.79 per KWh, 21.81p per day Standing Charge
Gas:- 2.54p per KWh, 21.81p per day Standing Charge
£15 discount for dual fuel, payment by monthly direct debit, £20 per fuel early exit fees.
Hope this helps
Edited By Ian Reid-Jones on 18/09/2016 10:53:16
|Thread: Wot 4 foam-e queries|
Took me about 20 mins before I worked it out.
This piece goes over the rudder/tailwheel plastic moulding at the bottom of the rudder. It effectively folds in two from the bottom, the holes going over the screw bosses. It makes the rudder attachment to the plastic more secure.
|Thread: MSE Cheap Energy Club|
Good call, I would strongly recommend this as well.
I too joined the MSE collective when it started and have used it ever since. I've not come across any better collectives, savings for me are around £400 per year compared to standard dual fuel tariffs. I pay about £950 pa against £1350 pa on standard tariffs.
It's no hassle, takes about 5-10 mins to switch, why wouldn't you do it?
David, the sequence of connection is critical. With a PC, first plug the USB cable into the laptop/pc, then plug the cable into the receiver, then power on the receiver. Any other order it won't work. You should see confirmation in the top right corner of the Spektrum programmer screen as you make each connection.
This different to the iPhone/Android sequence, this requires the lead plugging into the receiver first, then power the receiver, then connect to the phone/tablet headphone socket.
That setup should work, all you need is a Y lead for the 2 flap servos, providing they work in the same direction. You can verify this by plugging them one at a time into port 5, if they work the same way an ordinary Y lead ill do, if they work in opposite directions then you need a Y lead with servo reverser.
Having seen a Riot XL flying last weekend at our club I'm sure that you could manage without the flaps until you can sort the leads out.
DX6 and AR636 both have only 6 channels.
Your Riot XL has:
Servos - Rudder, Elevator, 2 x Aileron, 2 x Flaps, Tow release
Other channels - ESC, lights and Flight mode
That's 10 individual controls, so something has to go.
AR636 configurations allow either 2 aileron servo outputs, 1 flap output or 1 aileron, 2 flap outputs. Therefore a Y lead will have to be used for either flaps or ailerons. If the servos on the flaps and ailerons are "handed" a normal passive Y lead will operate the ailerons correctly but not the flaps (one will go down the other up).
That accounts for 3 channels, the remaining channels (3 receiver ports), the remaining channels have to be assigned to Rudder, Elevator and Throttle. That leaves a probl;em with no available channel for Flight mode on your transmitter.
This means that the flaps will have to use a Y lead, which may have to include a servo reverser to make the servos both go in the right direction. The you have a spare channel to assign to Flight mode. There is no battery port on the AR636, power is usually supplied via the ESC/throttle port.
One final tip, leave a short extension lead in the bind/program port so that you can easily connect the programming lead. This saves struggling to plug into the receiver and possibly dislodging it.
Hoep this helps.
|Thread: Wot4 XL artf Build|
|Thread: RIOT XL|
You wouldn't be using the AR636 from the apprentice would you? If so it will definitely need reprogramming. Servo/surface centre and throws will need setting up on the AR636. The AS3X functions need setting to each individual model. You will be able to programme the flaps to a 3 position switch on your transmitter.
The AR636 needs mounting securely in one of the permitted orientations. Then it will need programming using the programming lead and either a PC/Laptop, Android or iPhone. Relevant apps can be downloaded from spektrumrc.com.
|Thread: PCB design.|
Have you tried here - **LINK**
There are also build threads for Nelson Pass amps which may be of use.
Good luck with your build
|Thread: Faulty product|
I would have thought that you should turn the control right down (usually fully anti-clockwise) before connecting the glow plug. Once connected the control should be slowly increased until your plug shows a medium bright orange glow, the setting will likely be different for different glow plugs. Make a note of the current so that you can reset it for individual plugs.
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