Here is a list of all the postings David Hall 9 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Dynam Waco?|
I really liked the Dynam Albatros and the Waco. I bought a new Albatros from a well know supplier and found that some of the parts were warped. The horizontal stabiliser in particular was warped in such a way that when placed on a flat surface, the hinge line of the stabiliser and elevator (on the flat projection) touched in the middle and bowed out to each end to around a 12mm gap. I had no idea how to fix that and sent it back.
I found a used Waco and went to view it. It was very attractive but the upper wing was warped, giving lots of twist. I know that many have had great experiences with their WACO, but for me, they lost much of their attraction. I suspected that the paint finish had something to do with the warps.
|Thread: What have I got here ?????|
Should we see a picture?
Edited By David Hall 9 on 06/08/2019 16:41:06
|Thread: Using larger lipo to charge smaller one|
I use my 2650mAh 4s battery to charge my 450mAh 3s and 850mAh 3s batteries via a charger when flying comps. I charge 4 or 5 of each. It works very well, better (for me) than dragging a car battery with me. I'm able to set the input shut-off voltage in the charger, so no issues.... The likely issue for you is that your battery is quite a lot higher voltage than most will accept.
Edited By David Hall 9 on 04/08/2019 19:56:31
|Thread: Registration of flying sites with NATS/ATC|
Now that our model aeroplanes are "drones"....
I also have an interest in multirotor flying and recently bought an inexpensive camera drone. Whilst researching where I can do some aerial photography, I downloaded the app "Drone Assist" in order to be better informed about airspace restrictions.
I believe that this app is an official means of planning flights, it being used to determine where might be safe to fly, where might need extra permissions and where no flights can take place. It also has the facility to register my planned flight location (dated and timed etc) that (I believe) becomes available to all that use the app or by other means for "full-sized" aircraft. I have booked a couple of flights successfully..
Now, given that we tend to fly in one place, I was surprised to see that none of my model club flying sites is noted in the app. This was particularly notable at a recent thermal soaring comp which is sometimes overflown by light aircraft.. They would have no idea that we were operating there.
Will this become a requirement and should we be registering our sites as permanent events (for whatever days and times flying is allowed at our sites)?
Edited By David Hall 9 on 04/08/2019 10:36:51
Edited By David Hall 9 on 04/08/2019 10:38:05
Edited By David Hall 9 on 04/08/2019 10:49:20
|Thread: Finding Models|
I compete in F5J comps and spend much of my time practicing (I do need the practice!). Whilst looking at my model at height, it is unnerving how, if I take my eyes off it for only a second, it is difficult to re-acquire the sight of it. Many fellow fliers have lost models in this way. It can come down to earth a great distance away, this would be a great use of a tracker that can return co-ordinates. The problem is that there is not much space in the fuselage.
I have bought a few trackers and have had mixed success with them. The worst gave a position of nearly a half mile error!
This one is good to around 1m. Regrettably, it is a little too big for the quadcopter I had intended it for. It is around the size of a box of matches. It uses a sim and phone connection. The unit has more than one operating mode. The one that I liked simply returned it's position when a message was sent to it, via google maps.
It uses text messaging to do this, so will work with a basic signal. It works very well but it contains a battery (maybe it could be powered from the aircraft battery?) and a SIM. The build may not stand up to a good knock, so would benefit from internal packing and external soft wrapping...
(I have nothing to do with the sales of these..)
|Thread: Ailerons and flaps on an HN1033 section.|
Hi, I am planning on modifying a Blejzyk Duo esoarer for use in F5J comps. The main mod on the wing is to reduce the span from 2.1 to 2m to fit the 2m class.
Looking at the polyhedral wing (one centre and two outer dihedral changes), I was thinking about adding ailerons and flaps to the wing with the outer section of dihedral removed. The very nicely finished veneered foam wing has a thin section described as HN1033. This has a slight undercamber. I was wondering if this might not work well with control surfaces, anyone have experience of this section?
|Thread: Who says flying thermal soarers is boring?|
Many years ago, I built a 100 inch thermal "Chieftain" just to have a go. This 2 channel model was great fun trying to contact thermals. As a bungee or tow-man was needed, it seemed to be too much effort to fly regularly. Now, after my return to model flying, I was very interested to see that esoaring is thriving. I went along to a comp meeting to see what was involved and was hooked (although it doesn't make an exciting spectator sport).
Typical models as used are molded CF jobs with fittings that cost more than I wanted to spend in total. One or two were flying 2m gliders, which are more affordable. I've now entered a couple of seasons in the 2m class and learned a lot, yet have much more to learn. The 2m class is considered to be the "starter" class, but competing in the same slots and scoring on the same scale, it sure feels to be even more difficult to stay aloft for the full slot time.
Now considering a step up to Open with the model that Soren posted about above.. Does it make a good F5J model?
Edited By David Hall 9 on 20/07/2019 11:25:27
|Thread: Durafly Hyper Bipe wanted|
I have one that I don't fly any longer. PM sent to you.
|Thread: Astro viking plans. .|
Many thanks to Jim for sending me a plan for this vintage model FOC.... Very much appreciated, Jim.
Good find Jim., pm sent...
I've bought a short kit for the Astro Viking 63" vintage model. Can anyone point me to a resource for downloading plans (tiled if poss)?
The seller of the kit should have emailed plans, but they are uncommunicative to say the least....
|Thread: Delivery time....|
I had an order from the EU warehouse that took three weeks to arrive. Its status was also "complete".... as it was shipped, I guess..
|Thread: Lost radio contact|
Before my "comeback" to RC flying, I too would have never considered lose pen cells in a holder for my Tx. But, as I bought some inexpensive radio gear to start with, My Flysky Tx was set up for 4 AA cells. As I had the cells, it was easy to try.
Thinking back to whatever problems I've had with this kind of arrangement, mostly it has been contact problems, largely due to slack spring fittings. My Flysky was a fairly tight fit for the rechargeable cells and to ward off the dreaded corrosion that can effect the contacts, I just coated some battery contact grease (petroleum jelly is fine) on the contacts. Three years now without any problem at all (although now it is not my main Tx).. If I ever have even the slightest doubt that it is secure, it will be changed.
When my Q7x Tx arrived, it had a rather flimsy and very cheap looking 6 cell holder. It seemed to be a poor holder, so for this, I fitted a welded pack...
Edited By David Hall 9 on 09/04/2019 14:34:59
|Thread: Taping Aileron and Elevator|
Several of my E-gliders have taped control surfaces.. I am plagued by the "step" movement in some surfaces, particularly those that move more, like flaps. For example in the case of the flap, its top surface can end up a couple of mm above the top surface of the wing. It could also be lower. I have refixed the Blenderm tape. Seems to come back. As a fix on my most recent glider that has no place to slot a hinge, I glued a mica hinge to the surface and taped over that. Seems to be holding. I may need a better system.
|Thread: Vintage airframe coverings.|
Solarfilm did a clear, mat version... is that an opaque finish, or one intended to take paint?
It just happens that i have a roll of 30micron laminating film (possibly hundreds of metres) that I used for some Depron models and to cover plans when building... multi-purpose stuff.
If it takes dope well, then will it take spray cellulose paint just as well?
Is the application of tissue necessary for strength, or will the film alone be good enough?
Thanks for the suggestions.. I was concerned that a heat shrink covering might be too flexible for the structure, but I've seen lots of photos and videos of vintage models covered in (transparent) film. (They might not look quite right, but have an appeal as an easy to apply covering).
|Thread: Amber with a frog in her throat|
Just a possibility, you might try a different SD card. The sound files are downloaded as they are used, so any problems might cause a slow operation?
|Thread: Vintage airframe coverings.|
After coming back to RC modelling in my retirement, trying several foamies, I'm beginning to fancy a vintage airframe. The Quaker Flash or the Astro Viking look attractive (maybe it's an age thing?)...
If I build one of these open framed airframes, would a heat shrink covering (Solarfilm) be suitable to cover it? (Just wondering if they must be done in nylon/dope)..
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