Here is a list of all the postings David Hall 9 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Wrong receiver being controlled?!|
The receiver number is not related to the model memory number. It is set up on the first page of the model config. On my Taranis, using D8 mode does not allow a receiver number to be selected.
Some of my telemetry enabled receivers do want to set a number and will warn if I use one that is already assigned.
As far as i know, what you have is normal.... be careful, many have flown the "wrong" model with the expected consequeneces.
|Thread: Accident waiting to happen?|
I'm guilty of storing batteries in this way at home, where they are grouped into size ranges.
It's just developed like that.. Thanks for the prompt, I've ordered a metal tool box that has several trays. That should be a better home storage solution than the cardboard boxes I presently use. At the field, I keep them in a padded case (camera case).
Incidentally, have you all seen the test videos of "LiPo safe bags"? They may be not much safer than that plastic tray.
|Thread: Refridgeration expert needed|
Isn't the tray there to collect water from the auto defrost cycle? it is intended to evaporate in the tray, I believe.
|Thread: What ESC for damped starting and stopping?|
Thanks to all for the suggestions.
I found this nice discussion on the braking options for BLHELI_32. It allows variable damping, apparently.
So, a BLHELI_32 device seems to be a good way to go rather than the more limited BLHELI_S.
Configuring the _32 is the next problem.... but that's another thread, I guess.
Edited By David Hall 9 on 25/08/2020 16:56:46
Thanks for your suggestions... I use OpenTx on my Taranis Tx, so could set up a slow response for the throttle.
My mixes for my F5J gliders are fairly simple, but there are a lot of them, making it all look complex. The throttle is run from the throttle stick. I use flight modes, so in one mode (power) the throttle stick is CH1 (THR), in the next mode, it is not assigned to any channel and in landing mode the throttle stick is the flap control via CH6 & 7 (FLA) (and CH8/9 in one plane).
A delay can be programmed in, but some very odd things happen when switching modes if a delay is configured. In one case, the throttle "blips" when it should have been off (-100). This is enough to get disqualified from that round as it is seen as a throttle use during the comp. However..... if the altitude/timer device (AltisV4+) switches the throttle off at the configured time or height, this will also be instant, so whatever has been set up in OpenTx is made redundant. .. so it is far easier to use an ESC soft start/stop than to have to deal with a whole bunch of config stuff that might not be possible to fix.
There are several OPTO ESCs available at the moment. I can program a BLHELI_S via a Naze32 but I might struggle with a BLHELI_32 as (I think) different hardware is needed to use the "passthrough" facilty of Cleanflight.
Does BLHELI_32 offer better functionality than the S for start/stop functions?
Edited By David Hall 9 on 24/08/2020 19:18:53
I would like to find an ESC that will be better for my F5J type gliders than my present devices.
The ESC will draw 40-50A and, as they have a folding prop and drive through a gearbox, would be better to have a soft start option. As they have to brake when stopped, the normal braking on budget ESCs tends to be quite severe, so some softening of the braking will be needed.
I realise that many higher end ESCs might suit this use, but I'm looking for cheaper options. For other reasons (battery backup and weight reduction), I would chose an OPTO ESC.
The obvious choice is a BLHELI / BLHELI_S / BLHELI_32 ESC.
I've used some small BLHELI ESCs in my smaller gliders, but these are now pretty well replaced with BLHELI_S and BLHELI_32 devices, the S variant also becoming more rare.
Is there a preference for S vs 32 for my use?
|Thread: Help with continuity testing|
If I understand your concern correctly, you did not expect apparent continuity between the supply output (+) and the 0v or earth connections.
The output circuitry of power supplies and in particular switched mode supplies, have plenty of circuitry to eliminate noise from the final output. To a low power DC meter, this may look like a path to 0v (or earth). A very simple power supply is likely to have capacitors on the output. Your meter may well indicate a near short circuit as it supplies current to the capacitor as it charges from your meter and more so as it leaks to 0v via some of the filtering circuit.
The continuity function of meters are great for checking the continuity of wiring and for checking the operation of some devices like diodes.
Edited By David Hall 9 on 22/08/2020 12:50:35
|Thread: Looking for an electric glider|
I found that the Blejzyk ARTF kits (maybe not enough building for you) are very high quality. My latest is the Mefisto, a 1.9m model that I built as a windy sports model.
|Thread: 5.5v too high for MKS servo?|
The spec is a little contradictory, rated at 4.8v NIMH battery or 5v BEC, where the NIMH battery will be significantly higher than 5v at times. What limit to apply?
As I had the parts in hand, I have added a diode in series with the supply to the RX. I used a diode rated at 15A (still physically small). I had measured the forwards voltage drop as near to 400mV, so may work well here, giving a supply voltage of around 5.1V.
I have tried it, it works.
I was surprised find that the servo that had odd behaviour is now as near perfect as it could be.
For info... when the stick (aileron in this case) was moved from its end stop to the centre, as fast as I could, it sometimes overshot the centre by a noticeable amount, hesitated for a fraction of a second, then centred. All slower movements over the full range were fine. I cannot make it do this, now the voltage is lower.
Thanks to those that suggested that the spec should be adhered to.
Thanks for repeating the spec to me.
I run another glider on 5.5v (most budget integrated BEC/UBECs over 40A rating have a 5.5v output), this has had no issue.
I wondered if anyone has actually blown a DS6100 on 5.5v?
On the other hand, this will facilitate my future plan to add a diode in the output to allow the use of a backup battery.
I have fitted a 5.5v SBEC/ESC to my F5J glider. This has several MKS DS6100 servos fitted. It seems to work well except for a later model servo recently fitted to replace a faulty servo. It can behave oddly near the centre when the stick is centered from full movement quickly.
In a separate job on the same plane, I was planning to add a battery backup system and had to look up the low voltage limit for theses servos. I was surprised that the specified higher voltage limit is 5v.
Am I risking a failure of the MKS DS6100 by running at 5.5v?
Edited By David Hall 9 on 05/08/2020 11:09:43
|Thread: V tail question|
I've found that it's quite easy to inadvertently use rudder trim to correct (in part) an aileron imbalance for level flight. This is more so in my gliders that have a small dihedral and will turn on rudder, such as my thermal type gliders. Models that are insensitive to rudder might allow some imbalance to go fairly unnoticed.
The test that I perform is to pull a loop from a gentle unpowered dive, with enough energy to complete the loop, and to correct any tendency to screw out of this by rudder trim. This assumes that it is trimmed for level flight to start with. I understood that this is quite a standard test.
|Thread: How bad can things get|
When you get it back, you will inevitably be in the position where you will have to "try it again". Goodness knows if or how many crashes you could have just to confirm a fix. I'd run very extensive tests without flying and then some in a very basic airframe.
In the meantime, I'd be tempted to buy one of the multi protocol transmitters or a Taranis with plug in multimodule, then you can run all your old RXs.
|Thread: Phoenix 2000|
My MK1 had a 3536 motor mounted, using the alloy mounting cross as a strengthener on the outside of the fus. The fus was simply moulded with the motor mount in fairly thin plastic. The vibrations of the motor fractured the plastic most of the way around the shape of the alloy motor mount.
I added a ply bulkhead which was fixed with hot weld glue. It has been fine for a season. Other owners that i know have had no problem at all.....
|Thread: Effect of thicker wing tips.|
I'm planning on scratch building some Depron/foam sheet models.
I'll use the easy wing building method of folding a sheet to form the LE, then back over a spar to the TE.
The easy way to do this is to use a constant thickness of spar. If I chose a tapered wing plan (say 75% of the root chord at the tips), then the tips will be relatively thicker.
Will this lessen the possibility of tip stalling?
|Thread: Phoenix 2000|
A 28mm motor has to be pushed to get the Phoenix 2000 to move around satisfactorily. A 3536 motor on a 3s battery will allow a lower KV and will not heat up as quickly. There's plenty of space in the fus.
|Thread: (Last) Flight of the Phoenix|
I recently beefed up the elevator joiner, (the part of the elevator that runs through the rudder). Whilst flying, it seemed to have some lag or hysteresis in the elevator. I found that the foam beneath the elevator horn had gone "soft" and was allowing some noticeable flex between each side of the elevator and in the horn itself. I recalled that several flights earlier, I had some flutter in a dive, but couldn't see any damage from it.... perhaps I looked in the wrong places.
I plated the centre of the elevator, top and bottom in 1m ply.
|Thread: Fly aways|
In many years, I've seen only one fly away, but what scares me is the potential to lose a model in the sky. When flying in thermal comps or when in practice, at distance, if the pilot takes his eyes off the model, it can be very difficult to pick it up again. Now and then, they can lost "in the sky".
At my local club, my fellow flyer shouted that he had lost his hot liner. It wasn't too high or far away but he had passed in front of the sun and had lost sight of it. As he scanned the sky in front of him, I landed my model quickly and looked in the opposite direction. I saw it, maybe 200m downwind and near to the horizon. He got it back. So easily done.
Edited By David Hall 9 on 17/07/2020 23:23:57
|Thread: Using MAX in a mix|
One aspect of OpenTx is that there is often more than one way to mix.
My own for throttle kill is to add source Thr (could be anything), weight 0, offset -100, multiplex replace, switch of your choice etc...
Edited By David Hall 9 on 16/07/2020 18:38:10
|Thread: Höllein Inside f5J kit|
My build came across a problem in setting up the servos and Rx. With a motor and eight servos, it is natural to use nine channels. I had a ten channel Turnigy AFHDS A2 receiver and as there's room in fuselage, decided to go with this.
After is was completed, I noticed some odd behaviour from the Rx. It gave "stuttery" servo movement, although it seemed to work otherwise. I replaced it with an eight channel Rx. That meant making the inner flap servos work on the same channel, but because it was built for independent servos, one ran in the wrong direction. I couldn't simply flip the servo over as the control horn has only one place to fit due to the lightening holes in the flap surface.
I bought and fitted a Turnigy servo reverser, a tiny "in-the-lead" adapter. This did the job, but appears to have a little twitch now and then and can also centre in slightly different positions. I think that this is because the device might work in steps and can have a problem in resolving the input.
Two of the six Corona 929MG/939MG servos were found to be faulty after installation. This allowed me a chance to open one up to investigate the possibility of reversing the servo movement within. I was pleased to find that the motor and pot solder tags were fairly easy to get at, so i plan to remove the reverser and then reverse the servo. In time, and if the plane performs as I hope, i will replace all six servos.
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