Here is a list of all the postings Barrie Lever has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Skyleader slider servos, max voltage, ok to use or what replacement?|
100% only run that servo on 4.8v from a Ni-cad or Ni-mh or suitable dropper, that servo was a hand granade in it's day, it will not be any better now.
There was an answer that suggested that 6v would be OK as that is what 4 x 1.5v drycells put out, what that does not take into condsideration is the very high internal resistance of the dry cells, just imagine it like a current limiting resistor in the system.
So with the dry cells as soon as a load is applied there is a significant voltage drop in the system, quite possibly to a lower system voltage than a decent rechargeable 4.8v battery would supply.
You can purchase individual in line voltage droppers to enable you to run one unusual servo (lower voltage) in a model, Multiplex certainly make such a dropper, it just looks like an extension lead.
|Thread: Which Airbrush and Compressor|
Phil and Doc
Those Jun Airs are superb, I have got one of those as well but did not want to confuse Phil with too many options.
Jun Airs are about £850 new, I paid £100 for mine, I have loaned mine long term to my competition/race partner.
Be warned of what the Engine Doctor says about cheap rip off airbrushes, that is why I always buy the Badger's.
Forget about spraying primers with aerosols, there are primers that are light years better that you can get to go through airbrushes, particularly the 250 style.
Look for primers like Upol reface
This red and white model was all sprayed with a Badger 250 and had Upol Reface as the primer, the white model I showed earlier was primed with Kapci again from a 250, but was finished with a 150 and 200.
Don't spend too much money on the airbrush as you will need some to buy a stencil cutter !! I just paid £50.00 for the one that cut the stencils on the white model.
This is the size/type of compressor that will do you a really nice job.
You can use an inflated inner tube but it will be out of air in a flash.
If you are patient the right stuff will come up on Ebay, remember painting is very much a game of patience !!
|Thread: Multiplex Cockpit Sx 9|
Are you flying with Multiplex?
I must get one of those 16 channel Royals before they empty the parts bin, I currently have the 9 channel Royal.
|Thread: 0.4mm spring steel wire|
How did the Sirotkin Spacehound fly as an RC model?
I have not heard of Sirotkin much in the last 20 years but at best he was a formidable character at worst he was something quite nasty.
|Thread: Which Airbrush and Compressor|
To reiterate what Dennis has said, too much pressure can be a source of problems, I do have a pressure gauge and water trap hanging off the end of my airbrush compressor and when spraying the pressure is 30psi, of course that raises when not spraying to about 38psi and then the compressor cuts off.
There are many airbrush kits around for very little money, the only reason that I don't recommend those is that I have never tried them and I only recommend items that I have personally used, however they will work as all the airbrushes are very simple.
Cleanliness is the byword when spraying or airbrushing.
This is the cheap Badger, it is called the 250, these are very versatile and not hungry for air.
On the white CL model above the primer was sprayed with one of these, the white base coat was done with a Badger 200 and the trim colours were done with the dual action 150 and the final clearcoat was back to the 200.
I could have done everything with the cheap 250, but the 200 and 150 would struggle with the primer.
The 250 is very simple external mix, it is easy to see what is wrong with it.
The 200 and 150 are quite similar, basically the 200 is a single action version of the dual action 150. Both of these give a more atomised spray pattern than the cheap 250 and can thus give a marginally better finish if everything else is going well but they cannot make up for poor prep etc.
The 150 is good for doing the stencil spraying as you can really control it well and not flood out the stencil.
I found the 350 to not be as versatile as the 250 and not great at atomising like the 150 and 200, so a bit in the middle with nowhere to go !!
The compressor photo is of the type that I use, it is auto off when you release the trigger on the air brush, I find this size of compressor ideal for the airbrushes that I describe above..
Any questions then just ask.
I have lost count of how many models I have sprayed over the last 42 years, I was painting with a brush before then.
If you can only buy one airbrush then it has to be a Badger 250, you can get just about any paint through these when thinned out and with a little care get a really high standard of finish.
I have sprayed models that have been exhibited at the Nurnberg Toy and Hobby show in Germany and have been complimented by people that I did not know that they were the best of show, done with a Badger 250 !!
I have sprayed a car door with a Badger 250 before, although I would say that a 60" model is about the limit if you have to do it all in one go.
I have bought every one of my current set of airbrushes on Ebay, most expensive was for a Badger 150 in the wooden case and I paid £50.00 for that. Then about a year later I managed to get the same airbrush minus case but with a Badger compressor for £30.00.
You don't need much of a compressor for airbrushes, just a little diaphragm compressor is all that is needed.
Remember getting good paint finishes is all about preparation.
Edited By Barrie Lever on 07/07/2020 19:59:57
|Thread: Need some help please|
I think if the set of engines has a Gordon Nano in amongst them then there might be other gems so tread carefully.
I would be happy to take a look at photo's of the engines and advise from there, I don't even want to buy the engines.
Sometimes I have seen good engines go cheap at Gildings so be careful.
Socket on the right as John says is the mains input for charging, give it a quick visual inside to check the mains wiring to the transformer before plugging it in.
The left socket is most likely the output from the Tx to the Rx for charging when the Tx is under mains power charging.
This was quite a common setup in the early 70's.
|Thread: Glassfibre covering|
No minimum size, the weight build up if done correctly is minimal over film and if the model lasts any length of time is probably lighter as no fuel soak takes place and repairs are less likely.
Shout if you need any instruction on glassing.
|Thread: Carbon Fibre Tubes|
Glad you pointed out the inadequacy of the tube.
I would like to add that the sequence you describe usually happens in a short period of time !!!
|Thread: Forum members' new models: Let's see them.|
I am looking at getting the linkages inside the fuz or shrouded in some way.
One of the problems is that the fuel tank takes up pretty well the whole fuz, the fuz is 21.5 mm wide and the tank is 20mm wide and pretty well the full depth of the fuz as you can see in the first photo.
I did not fly it at yesterdays meet but the exact same setup went at 203.1 and that is not Kph.
I built and finished this monoline CL model for flying down the local park.
|Thread: The Gov't, CAA, BMFA & UAV legislation thread|
I have got one of my people on it.
Can you screenshot that Facebook link please, I don't do Facebook.
'He stated that this was due to the collapse of the registration scheme.
I don't think the BMFA have done anything wrong on this CAA scheme, but from the government/CAA side of things it is an absolute disaster, always was going to be that way.
A combination of knee jerk reactions to no one recognising the Police drone at Gatwick and the Amazon pressure for a clear low airspace lead us to where we are.
I know the regulations were being formed before Gatwick but the media were not following it then.
Drone delivery is good for remote locations, however the first one that touches down on my drive will not be taking off again (I don't think that is their plan though).
Edited By Barrie Lever on 26/06/2020 11:55:39
|Thread: Is the hobby dying/dead|
I have sent you a Private Message, you will get a box flash on the menu right at the top of the page next to settings.
Come and join my club, one of the oldest in Southern England, no stupid rules or little 'Hitlers', just a sound constitution.
Come along and fly, we will show you how to fly and build with no BS.
We still have a member who joined before the second World war and he was flying until about 5 years ago.
The BMFA sample constitution is a good starting point for a club or special interest group to form a constitution that is robust, however you are allowed to menu pick what is appropriate.
I think you will find the constitution is aimed to also cover legal crap that happens within clubs, the BMFA get a couple of cases a week where someone feels agreeved at how their club is treating them and bitch to the BMFA about it. I think this could be where the term best practise is aimed at.
No where does the BMFA say that it is a condition of membership or insurance to have an 'A' cert. I am a supporter of the scheme since its inception in around 1988 and also an examiner and have been a CE in the past, but the main thing is that someone is safe to fly.
I would say that it is far more important for a new member of a club to have a check flight with the club examiner and a quick review of their understanding of air law than to give a blanket OK if they have an 'A' cert, I think in the case of a blanket OK by 'A' cert that people are just hiding from saying 'I am sorry, you are not safe to fly'.
I will say again I see most juniors on their first flights indoors a whole lot safer than a number of 'A' cert holders.
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