Member postings for Denis Watkins

There are solutions to this problem, but the bottom line is that

Messing about with the gear at the field usually has a poor outcome.

We just increase the chances of overlooking something in the preparation.

The safest flyers stick to one routine.

Do you use flaps Digger? What angle e.g 25°

Does the model weigh much over 3lb?

Have you got the upgrade undercarriage fitted?

Plummet,

666 ohms, as the 0.15 should be 0.015A

Noughts always get me too

We all know V = IR Gary, and they are rated 0.020A or 20ma for your calculation

They are not bulbs as there is no filament, as they emit light when power is applied to the diode in the right direction

For polarity on an unmarked LED, look through it and you will see a large flag shape, that is minus,so follow that shape down for the negative connection

As a rule of thumb, you need 75 Ohms per volt protection

So 2v is in the order of 150ohms resistor

There is loads of information on the net Den.

One guy sang the models praises set it up looking from the front

CW Port

CCW Starboard

In open spaces timg, you can add 5mph to the forecast wind speed, so yours was 15mph

Now, the majority of small sports models struggle a little at 10mph and above wind speed, so you are not alone in this

Next build Steve, or this build now

Always reverse fit one of the servos on flaps

I cannot work out how you can do so much on just the Aux channels

I will look too at wing selection

Selecting the Wing type does add, or take away options

Edited By Denis Watkins on 17/02/2019 11:59:21

This is the Perkins JP Cub, at Steve Webb's, same price as your kit Sonny

But it is built and covered ARTF

**LINK**

Like Percy says, its difficult to spend more on bits and build time than a quick fix in a box

2 Flap servos can easily go on a Y lead Steve through 1 Channel on your flap Switch

There is no need for independent control of 2 servos for flaps

Does that do it?

The Mark 2 covering appears to be more brittle than flexible on the new model

And does appear to shatter under some circumstances

As Bob says, get the tail further off the ground, it won't take much work

The smaller rolls of stick on covering, as sold by Balsa Cabin are tougher, maybe just stuck on the lower surface

Might help, but those sharp weedlike stubbles you get in parts of the field are very damaging

Edited By Denis Watkins on 17/02/2019 11:14:17

Any stabilised gear Ian, I hope this helps

Trim the airplane with stab OFF, so you have normal non stab flight

Only then use the stabilising features

As you suspect, if you introduce a trim during stabiliser ON

Then the servos will constantly be in use maintaining level flight

This has been discussed before Thomas, and it does not work on open frame structuree and will droop

Choose open frame methods

The system was designed for sheeted constructions

No problem with your paint, and do look at airbrushing

Unlike a Motor Car Simon, we don't have a gearbox, or gear change on the plane.

Imagine going down the motorway in 1st gear !

On full size aircraft, we have variable pitch, to take off, cruise, and land

On landing the full size changes down to low thrust.

With a model we compromise with a fixed pitch propeller and sometimes we notice

The model is fast on the ground, slower in the air

Or a longer time on the ground and quicker than the 1st prop, in the air

We compromise, and use Watts as a easily read guideline of efficiency, with low reading being best when compared to the spec of the drive train

This is an interesting thread, and a cracking aeroplane, and I don't want to muddy the water, but I have researched in the past, the Storch at Cosford and the modern view of STOL, as this is an amazing modelling topic

The DWH Manual clearly shows the slat hinges and the servos as Eric's build

When the Storch was current during WW2, the pilots were very impressed with the advantages of the leading edge slats and suggested that fully adjustable retracted slats would increase the Storchs pitiful flying speed.

The adjustable Slat design never materialised at all during WW2

Am now looking for any development Post War

You will think me potty

But I assisted a build some years ago and the C of G was outside the model

In front of the leading edge of the lower wing, below it

What diameter? WW

**LINK**

Our 4 stroke, self propelled Mountfield rotary mower is now 10 years old and going strong

Takes about 1 hour to do the strip, taking turns to go up and down

A replacement would be £299

If cleaned at the field, at the end of the flying, the lads use a squirty bottle filled with water and a few drops of washing up liquid, as the mess is fresh

More stubborn mess can be moved wit £1 Shop Bath Foam, just a few squirts

1/4 inch is almost Bowling Green, and achievable with Fine Leaf grasses ! !

Is your patch this good Tim?

A Rotary is quick and does a fine job

A Cylinder is for Lawns, and inefficient if the surface is not flat

Do you have a superb field Tim?

3mm should be plenty strong enough FB