Both IC 4 stroke Keith,

Ours on the 72 and another on the 81

We are predominantly IC at my place, presently, but approaching 50/50 with electric power

Ours is a joint build Chipmunk Braddock, but I rebuilt this U/C with 4mm metric wire

That is near enough 8 swg

Reason being, it is flexible, yet rigid enough, and my bender can handle this size

More on the C of G, our instructions state 88mm 

And as we are intermediate flyers, no claim to being expert

The flaps were set from off, to 10° takeoff, and just 25° landing

This worked best, as most models, when deployed during finals throttle already decreased

So no lolloping nose up, or mixes needed, just a solid increase in lift at lower speed

As always, the model is under some power until the wheels touch down, so none of this gliding in at the end of the approach

Edited By Denis Watkins on 16/08/2019 10:52:13

Washers and bound copper wire, semipermanent fixing

Edited By Denis Watkins on 16/08/2019 08:22:50

Is this the 63" span Keith? We have two at my patch, and one of them, may as well be mine, as my best friend had me assemble most of the model, and I fly it more than he does, but he has my Wot 4.

I set up the 2 into 1 elevator on one servo, as near as humanly possible accurately,

Then added 6 very small washers to the front and rear of each pushrod, then soldered them into an impregnable assembly,

This would need a dremel cutting disc in the future, if this ever needs removal

Edited By Denis Watkins on 15/08/2019 20:27:31

Info Douglas

Canopies can be a made from a form of acrylic and will polish up, but many canopies are a poly something

And these are attacked by cyanoacrylate big time

The cyano penetrates poly types very deeply

Sorry to be vague but plastics are available in their thousands

See through plastics owe there success to having huge gaps between the molecules

And cyano penetrates these gaps readily causing us distress

Answer to your question

A polycarbonate canopy will be ruined

But an acrylic canopy could be polished smooth again

For info Tom, that is a freeflight helicopter, and a very niche market

Pretty sure it is from the 1960s and may have some collectors value

My own outlet is ebay, and guessing at £20 start bid with £5 postage

There is so much you can do with a 4 stroke manifold Martin

It does look like your .52FS will be inverted, which puts your exhaust outlet at the bottom of the cowl

A 90° elbow manifold, will put your silencer straight down if required

And also tight in within the cowl, to point where you like

You can allow the silencer to point down or pipe it to where you desire

On heck Martin, there is a build blog on this very site

I twigged when Don stated Dancing Wings

**LINK**

Edited By Denis Watkins on 13/08/2019 15:08:11

Don these, are cheap too

P-Clips 304 Stainless Steel Rubber Lined Pack Qty's 1, 2, 5, 10 P Clip Clamp W4

I did the same thing from JE Colin, and fitted using these clips of ebay, as they offer some insulation

I can see myself, stood in front of that masterpiece Nigel, on my model stand, with starter in hand.

Am right handed, so with the nose cone on my right hip, I would start the motor to the right of picture 1st.

Then would move this way, to present the starter to the second motor.

From there I would move to the rear of my sturdy trusted model stand, and feel the draught from the 2 x 40s

Oh what a dream

Super well done you.

My own experience to yours Keith, was On a polar opposite 2 stroke OS55AX with collapsed bearings.

Now there was no clue which broke up first, the front of rear bearing

But the resultant endfloat jammed the prop driver against the front bearing housing

Held from going further in by the motor backplate

The debris in the crankcase prevented any finger turnover at all, so it was quite obvious that disassembly was the next step, but this did not involve your taper problem

Oddly, the crank did not suffer, but the con rod was bent ! !

I did nothing further with the motor as I never trusted it again

My neighbour runs one of these Toyotas as an high mileage company car FB

And cannot speak highly enough of the lower cost stress free driving

With the Hybrid not requiring an umbilical cord attached to the house

Edited By Denis Watkins on 12/08/2019 08:06:59

Ha haa Bert !

It just works Jonathan

The cast iron crank will remain cold, as there is more mass and the metal is denser and heavier

The Aluminium prop driver will conduct the heat rapidly, and it is On the outside of the assembly

This works every time it the fit is a taper with no other obstruction

Just do it and remove the prop driver, even boiling water will do

Edited By Denis Watkins on 11/08/2019 16:50:40

Yep Bert, Freeze the motor, warm the prop driver, PING, job done

Try this Keith, put the motor in the freezer now until morning

In the morning, boil some water and pour into a deep mug.

Get a hardwood clouter nearby

Take the motor from the freezer, the put all of the aluminium prop driver into the boiling water

Give the the hot prop driver a clout with the hardwood

Repeat the aluminium warm up as necessary but the crankshaft should still be frozen

You see the idea, small crankshaft, large prop driver

Well use the diagram to determine, the parts that went on, will come off

Exploded view of parts Keith

Screenshot png, converted to jpg, hence adverts

Just seen this Paul, as KC was good enough to comment

As your power plant is fine by your description, then do as KC suggests

It is often very easy to grind a new flat further up the noseleg to get extra clearance, moving this down

If she mows grass, then double check there is not too much forward weight achieving the C of G

Also, with banded on wings, it is easy to alter the wing incidence slightly, if it is that holding the nose down

Also just a few clicks up elevator to help the ground run

And John was typing good advice while I was typing

Edited By Denis Watkins on 09/08/2019 17:38:48

Yes Keith,

Petrol is cheaper, and more widely available

But is less powerful in our motor sizes, and the smell does linger