Here is a list of all the postings Phil G has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Vibration absorbing engine mounting|
Wow! What a brilliant and rapid response to my query. Thanks to all of you for providing your insights and advice.
Just to clarify with a little more detail..... The (Ben Buckle) Super 60 has been built as per plan with Hardwood beams, but outboard of any likely engine. The engine is to be mounted on an alloy plate, which in turn is screwed to the hardwood bearers. (Taking advice from another thread, I will be bolting to the beams rather than self-tapping screws.)
My thoughts were either to use small m3 rubber backed washers top and bottom of the engine lugs to mount to the alloy plate, OR put small 'o' rings under the alloy plate when bolted to the beams.
Both options would limit the possible movement to a very small amount, and would be pretty easy to renew if /when needed. But whether that would significantly reduce noise I can't say.
I note what Jon from Laser Engines says about adverse effects so I am now somewhat cautious. And a couple of guys suggested it really isn't worth the effort, given the small engine size, and a reasonably quiet engine anyway.
So, I think I'll go with the easy option and do nothing at first and see whether noise is a problem.
Thanks again to all. Any further insights given the information above will be gratefully received.
I am planning on putting a Saito 40 four stroke into a Super 60 4 channel. In order to reduce vibration into the airframe, I am considering using rubber backed washers and /or 'o' rings in the engine mounting.
Is there any issue with doing this, and is it a good idea or a waste of time?
|Thread: On top of Solartex?|
I am covering my Cub (Flair Kit) in Solartex Olive Drab for a WWII version. I don't know how best to do the 'Invasion Stripes' (Black & White stripes on wings and around fuselage).
I have Solartrim but I think I read that it doesn't work well onto Solartex; is this the case? Alternatively, if I paint them, what paint would work best? Power is a 4stroke Glow.
And lastly, where can I get decals for the other markings, and /or can I produce them myself by ink-jet printing onto a suitable paper?
Thanks to all who may offer advice; much appreciated.
|Thread: Advice on Covering technique|
I'm building a Flair Cub to finish with Solartex. For the wings with strip ailerons, what is the best approach? ... Do I cover the wing and aileron separately before hinging together, or together after hinging? If the latter, do I stick the Solartex as deep into the slot as possible but leave it continuous across the hinge join, or slice it along the gap? What about overlaps and the bare ends of the ailerons and their counterparts in the training edge?
Any advice would be most welcome.
|Thread: Returning to play|
Thanks guys, useful advice. I am hoping to join Wimborne Model Aero Club and probably take first 'real' flights using their trainer with instructor hooked up, before trusting myself, probably still with attached instructor, to fly the cub.....too many hours in the build to take chances.
Still looking for the recommendation for best cheapest flight sim.
Hello all, I am returning to model flying after a break of about 45 years; back then for me it was single channel and small glow engines. There is a lot of 'new' stuff out there now!
I am currently building a Flair kits 'Cub' and have a Spektrum DX6 and a Saito 56 FS.
My initial question is about Flight Sim's. I think getting in a bit of practice on a sim should help when it comes to doing it for real. The cost of sim's is significant and wonder what is the most economical one worth using? Or is it worth paying for a 'Phoenix' or something else?
Want the latest issue of RCM&E? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!