Here is a list of all the postings Disciple of Autogyros has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Revolver Pusher type Autogyro trainer|
I maidened the Revolver yesterday. The wind was gusty and coming from all directions, but a helper and I went off the patch to some very long grass as I'd preempted crashing!. It was a hand launch taking account of the shifting wind direction. First launch my helper held the Revolver too vertical so the wind blew it backwards and crashed (no damage - the long grass was a good idea!. Second launch, helper launched much flatter this time, but I didn't have enough throttle so it flew for a bit then crashed - no damage (I love the long grass). Third launch, flatter and full power, flew off like a dream, It did a couple of circuits but it struggled big time in turns, I concluded that I didn't have enough throw built in for roll, however I was unable to adjust this as shortly after it nosed dived but, wasn't saved by the long grass this time. However the only damage was the mast snapped and nose wheel bent. I've made and fitted a new mast and unbent the nose under carriage. All good to go again.
In case your wondering, the servos are Corona MG rated at 4kg.
The maiden didn't happen on Sunday, the wind was too strong and coming from all directions. My colour scheme is not as stylish or sophisticated as yours but at least I can make out its orientation!.
To get the thrust line right I did have to move the motor quite far to the right.
Outstanding. Thank you for going to the extra effort of measuring your model and supplying the photos. I'm happy now. Knowing my track record, I'll take some photos of the finished build and post,before the maiden flight on Sunday (weather permitting).
Thanks once again.
With the battery pushed forward to the nose, I get a hang angle of 19 degrees (without church roof materials) . The CofG is marked together with the thrust line. Reading the article, it's best to have the thrust line as close as possible to, but above the C of G. The thrust line 23mm above the C of G. Is this ok?
I do have the option of lowering the motor (ergo the thrust line) by about 9 mm, any more than that and the 9 x 4.5 prop will strike the boom.
AUW is 1050 grams
Edited By Disciple of Autogyros on 22/05/2019 19:21:28
Edited By Disciple of Autogyros on 22/05/2019 19:22:00
Edited By Disciple of Autogyros on 22/05/2019 19:22:58
Edited By Disciple of Autogyros on 22/05/2019 19:29:16
Thank you for the photo, much appreciated.
I've not tried a 2 blade set-up on any of your many Gyro designs so yes, I would be interested along with some wise words on how to fly a 2 blade set-up.
My build is almost complete now, and will post some photos of it once I sort out the ESC issue and visit my local church !
Hit a snag today whilst fitting the electrics.
The wires for the motor and ESC are not long enough (in my set-up) to feed the motor wires through the rear bulkhead and for the ESC wires to go through the holes in the base of F5's internal bulkhead to them pull them both through the servo hole enough for the bayonet connections to be joined.
I'm thinking of de-solder the existing ESC motor wires and solder longer wires (say 10 to 15cm )back onto the ESC.
Any advice/ alternatives on this would be welcome
Excellent video for explaining the final stage of balancing. Well done and thank you for producing it.
I'm not sure what you mean regarding the head assembly? does this mean all the components of the head EG delta plate, bearings and blades? Also do you have any tips on how best to do it?
I mean the Battery within the fuse.... not the Batter!
My build is almost complete, just working on the covering now. In anticipation of kitting out the Revolver 2, do you have an photos of how you positioned the batter within the fuse?
Been working on the blades today. I used a Johns Plane to carve them out. Something I've found useful is to make a fibreglass template of the blade profile to drawer around. I helps to get a consistent profile. photo below
Carved blades ready for balancing.
Just look at all the shavings on the garage floor. Caving blades out is not something one should do in the house!
Thanks, the canopy blank was made from Balsa.
Rich/ Another Gyronut will, I suspect, be better placed to explain the shrinking method although If you can't wait for him/them to come back, PM me and I'll happily explain how I did mine, One thing to note though if you have any doubt that the lemonade bottle may not be long enough for the blank, don't just chop the end of it, cut the bottle so you keep at least one of the foot lobes to house the top rear of the canopy (hope this makes sense.
To compensate for the Frosty Jacks bottle not being long enough, I extended the rear of the cockpit by about 20mm so the canopy covers the cockpit
I used a Frosty Jacks cider bottle for the canopy, but it was not long enough to cover the rear of the blank.
Blank for the canopy took a lot of sanding,
Snakes in place for the rudder cables
I think I've figured out how to upload my photos. Here goes.
Good idea to laminate. I used 6mm square strips soaked in boiling water, it worked, but there was a slight cracking sound as the longerons were bent. I think I got away with it though. I've made one amendment to the design by adding the orange snakes within the fuselage for the rudder cables to run (hope you don't mind Rich?) The blank for the canopy took quite some time to get the profile about right.
I'll upload photos once I figure out how to do it
Now onto the blades.
Apologies for the delay in responding. Clearly I had a senior moment, as I saw the reference to the 6mm balsa strip in the picture diagram in RCME after you'd replied. Thanks for responding though,
On a separate note, will this thread be used as a build log?
Can I just check, will this site be the build log for the Revolver 2? assuming yes?, I've got a question. On bottom of parts F1C, FL2, F3 and FL4, there are what looks like 6mm cut-outs. The plan indicates a strip of something runs from front to back of the fuselage, is this for 6mm balsa strips to help reinforce the 3mm bottom sheeting?
P.S. I'm really enjoying the build by the way.
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