Here is a list of all the postings Chris Walby has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Jet Pack Paramedic - Coming to a Hillside Near You!|
Worth watching the news article and then then their video of the day prior + the drone footage is quite impressive as well.
They are turbines not rockets so apparently its more hot air than flaming exhaust gas and the designer spooled it up in his lab on the radio! Their MK2 has a spool up time of 10 seconds as opposed to the 45 seconds for the MK 1.
One large pack turbine and 2 pairs of thrust vector ones on the arms.
They did admit that the major issue is flying time....where did you hear that previously......is the drone dead, long live personal jet packs..at least it will take the focus off our flying.
Edited By Chris Walby on 29/09/2020 14:08:29
|Thread: Laser Engines - Technical questions|
Can't see an issue with the engine mounting lugs myself and if you manage to break them off you have a big problem. I have a set of long series drills which are long enough to mount the engine on the engine mounts, clamp and then spot the holes.
I still maintain putting the engine and tank in the right place is the best option and have only had the vent facing forwards, interestingly I had one inside the Acrowot cowl and it didn't run quite right. Moved to the correct outside cowl position and no problems.
As others have said having a test rig is not really necessary and with this size engine I would be ultra careful as an 18 inch prop will not take prisoners. I had a throttle servo issue on the YAK which left it running and unable to stop it....as its in a cowl with its tank everything is tucked away, so after a bit of head scratching I plugged a bit of fuel line over the tank vent and that worked...in the end. Once started they really don't want to stop.
Again I would urge caution with anything Heath Robinson on the starting side, a glow stick and a propriety starter or chicken stick....if you are pushing the starter against the spinner and you slip into the prop arc as it starts first aid will be needed.
If you don't have a model why not look about for something like my YAK? Mine was 3rd or 4th hand and about 8 years old, not much money and if I dumb thumb it then its not a major loss of airframe.
Welcome to the dark side Danny (can't be light as electric is not involved!) you won't regret it
Bert is spot on with fuel ( MT Laser 5) unless Jon recommends the lower oil content (depending on age of your engine).
I have a 180 in my Yak (was for the Hurricane) and its just great, massive grunt and just pulls it a along sounding so sweet.
All my engine install have the Nylon type mount including the test stand (although its not really necessary).
From my experience there is only one important thing...tank position. Get it right and all will be well, try and compromise and it will sooner or later come back to bite you in the backside.
Following the instructions (available on the web site) on setting up, find a model and go flying.
PS, OS F glow plug
Edited By Chris Walby on 27/09/2020 15:25:49
|Thread: Best interference free 2.4 tx under ?350?|
Irrespective of TX and RX manufacturer (as they are likely to be all tested to death in the development lab) is the problem to be far more likely an external influence?
Ok some might be better than others with a particular type of interference, but if the interference is very powerful then it will make little difference which manufacturer made the equipment? Are the manufacturers designing jamming equipment looking to be specific or just knock everything out of the sky, so if then is an external interference likely to effect all manufacturers sets if its powerful?
PS - That's of course based on the assumption that a completely different "spare" frequency is not used.
|Thread: Ofcom trace interference to a lightbulb|
So was the lamp at fault.... or more likely what was passing through it?
Was it just acting as an aerial? There are plenty of candidates that produce higher frequencies than 50Hz or any of the harmonics associated with that fundamental frequency or switch mode power supplies operating at higher switching frequencies where their harmonic frequency aligns with the equipment effected operating frequency?
|Thread: Forum members' new models: Let's see them.|
Edited By Chris Walby on 22/09/2020 20:30:45
Very nice one Trevor, any chance of getting a copy of the plans would be a fabulous bonus as after a bit of getting used to a canard they do fly well. And would make a great winter project IMO.
Edited By Chris Walby on 22/09/2020 20:31:14
|Thread: Powered by Laser, a gallery thread|
VQ FW 190 with a Laser 80 in it. Tried it inverted but could not get the tank height so rotated to the starboard side.
Bulkhead stayed put, but some holes needed to be cut and then made good. The rest of it went together without too much bother although the spinner launched itself on about the fourth start.
Needed to move the throttle servo and the port elevator snake seems to take restrictive route from the servo to the tail.
C of G spot on and no additional lead required.
Edited By Chris Walby on 21/09/2020 19:33:13
|Thread: Airborne Battery Pack Duration|
IMO I am with Peter J on this and find about 7 minutes more than enough time to fit a good session. I have also noticed that when instructing three or four 7 minute sessions are a much as a trainee can take before their performance starts to roll off.
The only times I need more time is on a maiden where I set the timer to 4 min and IC when I have a model that is hard to land and I might need a couple of go arounds to get it set up right.
I have an edf that did 2 min 30 sec and landed with 4% (killed the lipo) and the esc's were backing off....no chance of a go around with that! And as a flier it breaks a major rule (for me) in not having a viable plan B.
If you want longer flight times go back to IC, get a glider or go slope soaring
|Thread: Focke Wolf Ta 154 Laser|
Well its been a few weeks with lots of activity, but not with this Focke In short I am one model less that was proving quite frustrating for all parties involved. Gained a little tiddler (80 size!) and had a couple of engine issues by far made worse by me. Actually there was nothing wrong with one engine as it was a fuel contamination issue.
Back to the job in hand and trying to get my head around the back end of the model and horizontal stab and still not happy with it. Need to something with the cockpit which I think I'll rough out and go with that for the time being.
I have finally made a couple of decisions, firstly to glass the model and secondly paint with a basic high viz colour scheme. If it flies okay then it will get the full paint job later. The rational is that the glassing will have to be done anyway and I made a TN Ta 154 with the "leopard" pattern and in the winter sky it was hard to see at best. If it went below the tree line it would just disappear (funny that camouflage working so well).
Another model to finish and then on with the glassing...after a lot more rubbing and filling that is..
|Thread: Petrol or Glow?|
IMO - Glow
Put the tank in the right place, nothing else needed
Set it up right then no onboard glow needed
No ignition or CDI needed
4 strokes just sound better
Using Laser lower oil content fuel then minimal cleaning, just wipe over while doing the post flight inspection
Less things to go wrong
For the amount of glow fuel I use compared to the cost of the model and the diesel driving to the field I can't see the benefit or the payback
I suppose the more people that buy petrol then the more glow engines available for the rest of us...
|Thread: Powered by Laser, a gallery thread|
A bit of a cop out as I am meant to be electricfy it for its owner ….but the 62 was found in a box of give away/unwanted bits (Dual Ace in photo for scale!)
Plus the Nova had a OS LA 40 and a load of lead so why not pop the Laser in...Flies very nicely and will plod around on 20% throttle just hanging in the sky....handles windy weather as well.
PS Would like to thank Jon for the great service with my 180 that was involved with meeting the ground and my 70 that needed a bit of TLC when I had problem on Tuesday and it was fixed on Wednesday - I took me longer to get the engine out and back in the model than it for Jon to fix it....
|Thread: Introduction and Engines query|
Simon, sorry to hear about your disappointment with the Cougar, but it is what it is...a light weight very aerobatic model.
I have used one for instructing new trainees and orientation can be an issue (until a couple of large Solartrim circles were stuck to the upper surface of the wing). My students got on well with it, as it could fly very slowly and on low rates is very stable, but on high rates for the instructor makes it very responsive to avoid the ground.
Mine and another one at the club have done sterling work and taken a lot of knocks and I can only think you have high rates and an incorrect C of G to make it fly so poorly.
If I could find a 4 stroke to do it justice I would get another, but may just end up with an electric version to really explore the manic capabilities.
PS - Fly the WOT-4 and get the thumbs well dialled in....then its Cougar time
|Thread: 4 motor watts|
Why would you be running two both inner motors and outers in a different directions. As I understood you change the prop rotation on one side to reduce yaw on the take off run. I have a couple of electric (some with counter rotating props) and IC twins and to be brutally honest it does not make that much difference if you use the rudder and don't gun the throttle on take off. In a chat with George he did specifically mention that with a couple of TN multi electric motors models that counter rotating improved the in flight characteristics (turning to starboard) compared to all motors rotating in the same direction
The lower total power will be due to reduced battery voltage as a result of battery voltage sag, try it with two batteries . Don't forget longer battery/ESC/motor leads cable resistance will suffer from I squared R losses so simply high currents have significant effect with losses and volt drop. You don't have to run the batteries in parallel just run the inner ESC's of one battery and the outer on the other battery to share the load.
Which of the ESC's have the red leads attached as there might be something going on with the ESC throttle settings + I could not find a specific diagram for your 4 motor configuration...Are you using 2 UBEC's or different throttle channels on the RX. If you have plugged the set up into a servo tester you will have inadvertently connected two red wires to the ESC's together which will cause an issue.
Either a wiring diagram of your set up posted here or phone George, after all that's one of the benefits of buying from a British supplier. The problem with this forum is that there are people with opinions that contradict the manufacturer.
|Thread: Building board|
+1 for plaster board, drawing pinned and SLEC plastic sheet over the top
|Thread: Wing damage repair advice wanted!|
As the additional weight is on/very close to the C of G I would go for the thicker tube.
PS - Don't every try to fit a carbon tube inside another carbon tube...they bind and are very difficult/impossible to part...
|Thread: To stabilise or not to stabilise - the gyro question|
Cheating implies there are specific rules being broken, as far as I know there are no rules for the non competitive flyer regarding the use of giros.
If you want to use them do so, if you don't then don't use them then don't
Now heading so far off topic its lost the plot and off to the field for a bit of stick bashing
|Thread: Laser 80 - what would YOU build for it....?|
How about a VQ Tiger Moth?
Other suppliers are available.
|Thread: To stabilise or not to stabilise - the gyro question|
Don't forget to let us know how you get on.
A couple of points.
To get the best from a giro it needs to be set up correctly, not a problem on a well behaved model as you can switch it in and out, but I can't see how you can use it on a total dog while fighting with the controls. Too much gain may make it worse or cause control surface over compensation, too little and it won't help.
If you fly the model to a point (of stall) a giro will not save you, it has to have something to work with and waggling control surfaces with very little air speed won't help you or the giro.
I have a foam SU47 (wings on the wrong way around!) which I find very challenging to fly...could I say rewarding absolutely not, it seems to do nothing well and kills a 6S4500 in 2m20s. Would a giro help, I don't think so, but if anyone would like to try you are more than welcome to.
I do use one in windy conditions as it just make things more enjoyable and landing more predictable (save more gluing later).
Just don't get me on the subject of SAFE.....when the owner left it switched on and didn't tell me...weird.
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