Here is a list of all the postings Chris Walby has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Seagull Hurricane Laser|
The Laser is alive and being put to good use for the winter.
The Hurricane is sitting in the garage ready for better weather and additional ballast option.
|Thread: Delta Wing Side Thrust|
I have a foam Yeti (Zagi look alike) + just finished a Can Doo (Canard Delta) and both have no side thrust. Both are pushers and Ollie is a tractor (not fitted in the photo) again with no side thrust although he flies a bit "Ruff"
|Thread: Custom wiring|
Battery balance connectors seemed like a suitable solution a few years back and I used them on a couple of installations, however an experienced club member mentioned having issues with this type of connector.
Since then I have experience a number of minor issues (poor and intermittent connections on various pins) to a point where I will no longer use them for any but lighting/non flight surface use.
IMHO the quality varies too much and for flight controls one poor connection will probably the models last.
PS 9 and 15 pin din connectors seem to work although very fiddly to solder and are low current rating.
|Thread: Real Model Pilots great first experience|
Hi, Any photos of pre and post painting please?
|Thread: Motor wires extending current requirements.|
Just make the new wires the same or slightly larger cross sectional area (size) than existing. Not an issues over a short distance.
My Vulcan pusher ones are a couple of foot long with no noticeable loss of performance .. still flies like a manhole cover!
PS I would solder and heat shrink all connections to reduce any connection issues.
|Thread: The Whipitteer|
Hi Rich, Only just come across this build thread and have always had an interest in autogiros and mosquitos, but that's another story.
What would you recommend for the first time giro jockey (previous balsa and Depron bashing skills present) Whippet or Whipitter? I fly indoor, have A & B certs + IC and just finished a Can Doo for a bit of fun.
I note your servo and motor recommendations for the Whipitter is there the same for the Whippet? Plus are plans available? No problem if they are electronic as I can print/resize if necessary.
Looks a lot of fun...can I join in?
|Thread: DB Hurricane paint and finish.|
Still following so don't stop posting as its always handy to look back on some threads to see how they progressed. I was recently looking at a 2013 thread which was really handy as it had the info I needed.
|Thread: Forum members' new models: Let's see them.|
Hot on the heels of Trevor's canard is my take on the Can Doo although I went more for the drone/missile look at this stage. The pilot can be added to the top battery hatch at a later stage.
My better half practiced her covering skills in readiness for covering her Ohmen although I did point out curves are a magnitude harder than flat surfaces, she seem more adept than me.
Made from bits lying around and things from the naughty corner, it was an easy build.
Maiden was lively, but once I stopped over controlling it and trimmed the excessive up elevator out it was quite pleasant.
Second and third flight had me dialled in with rolls, loops (very nice!) and slow low passes easy to do.
Do's and don'ts
Overall a nice in the back or the car anytime model running on 3S2200.
PS should confuse the Scouts for a bit while they work out which direction it should be flying
Edited By Chris Walby on 19/01/2020 14:20:45
|Thread: When to Maiden your first new build?|
Option 2, but with the cowl and all major parts fitted.
No problem with electric as the model will stay oil free and the detailing/paint will not add that much weight or change the balance, but always worth checking the CofG if things are changed.
I have a IC model that I intend to do the above and will just have to de-oil for the final painting as this has two benefits
I am reminded of a club member you spent hundreds if not thousands of hours only to loose the model on the maiden. The quality of build and finishing was way better than I could ever hope to achieve and at that point I thought I would build and fly, then finish/detail at a later stage. Of course this is not necessary if the design is well proven and its just easier to cover it the once up to finish state.
PS - I was reminded at our club where a model was test flown but had engine issues so the cowl was removed, engine problem resolved the next flight was carried out without the cowl. Only problem was the quite significant weight to get C of G was in the cowl....how does the motto go?
I agree with Paul, if you fly it without the cowl and get it all nicely trimmed in, would fitting the cowl then need it trimmed in all again?
Edited By Chris Walby on 12/01/2020 11:24:34
|Thread: Do you remove your lipo from your transmitter every time?.|
My experience is my non lipo TX is frequently on charge and takes forever to get to near 100% where as my lipo Tx will last longer and charge quicker with the lipo it came with.
PS My lipo TX will charge on a wider input voltage range and won't over charge the cells.
|Thread: ESC overheating.|
work is work, if you are driving a prop at increasingly higher speeds (within reason) then it must by the laws of physics consuming more power.
The twist to this is how stressed and efficient the ESC is at various speed settings. As Dick has eluded to, at lower speeds the instantaneous current through the FET's might be higher thus placing more stress on the FET device + it will be less efficient and produce proportionally more heat. This might explain why ESC's tend to fail (if not overloaded) at lower speed settings and why they get warmer.
At WOT and increased airspeed there will be more air passing over the ESC (assuming its ventilated) to cool the additional heat generated hence the combined effect of lower air flow and lower ESC efficiency places the ESC under greater stress when at low throttle settings. Does that sound logical Spock?
|Thread: Propeller alternative chart|
I don't think there is due to there being to many other variables to consider.
The two on pitch to one on diameter (or 1 to 1) seems a good rule of thumb e.g. 12x6 or 11x8 works out although considerations for high pitch props is a factor in overall flight performance
Alternatively there are some good motor calculators on the web that take account of the many factors that need to be considered.
Me, prop to suitable ground clearance, watt meter to determine pitch with a small safety factor and away you go. If you have a need for speed then start with a high pitch prop and determine the diameter.
|Thread: Max Thrust Riot versus Wot4|
Keith, I think you are missing the point completely.
Go back to day one and ask yourself what you would like to see in your first trainer.
Stable, slow, robust, forgiving and low cost
People seem to read into a name far too much, one of the US reviews absolutely slated the RIOT for its lack of aerobatic performance and ability to do unlimited verticals.
If it serves the need of the complete beginner and then provides a bit of fun beyond that then its totally achieved its goal. By all means modify it if you wish, but it will always be a RIOT (high wing slab sided trainer). By all means keep it as a winter hack or try out different TX settings, but once its got you through your A then its job is done. Time to buy a model that will challenge you further and unlimited verticals if you want.
PS Although capable and within the weight limit, in my opinion its not appropriate for the B test.
|Thread: ESM Tigercat - powered by Laser engines|
My calculations could be wrong, but at a typical flying speed without the prop wash effect you'll be pushing 128 litres per second into the cowl (that's a lot or air per second in my book!). Forming a baffle to direct the incoming air over engines would reduce total frontal area, but increase the in/exit area ratio.
As Jon mentions I don't think the total area is important, rather directing the air in the right direction and allowing it to exit the cowl is more important.
PS What fuel are you using and % nitro?
|Thread: Phone APP for RPM reading.|
Robin, Motorcycle then sitting astride would be acceptable and walking up with a can would result in non recognition of the NPR system and authorisation by the attendant who would visually ensure you were not operating your phone
Steve J, My understanding is that your are wrong as zone two extends to near the roof line of a typical car.
I asked a garage attendant about using a mobile phone in a potentially explosive atmosphere and they were quite clear that the phone is to be used to read the pump code while inside the vehicle. Hope that clarifies the position on the use of potential sources of energy within this type of hazardous area (I have a CompEx qualification for Hazardous areas), but like the USA no system if fool proof to the ingenious fool.
As for the tacho, I agree that a suitable tool for the purpose is best for fault finding although Jon's method works for 99% of the time for me.
|Thread: Very heavy drones!|
I think 250kg is quite reasonable.
The Queen Bee RC 1:1 scale came out at 828Kg, now I really think you should have proof of purchase and your CAA number attached !
PS I know someone who has one although he prefers to be in it when flying
Edited By Chris Walby on 02/01/2020 21:04:00
|Thread: ESM Tigercat - powered by Laser engines|
Still following like an excited schoolboy!
Don't forget you are running maximum cooling with no cowls.
A few days ago I was flying the 180 laser Yak and it took an extended time to warm up, needed to be a bit richer at WOT and I just kept it away from WOT during the flights critical stages.
What was surprising was a friend checked the cylinder head temp with his hand just after flight (very short walk from flight line to bench) and remarked it was "cold" so with a lot of ventilation cooling off will occur very quickly.
I know its a bind, but I would do the final run up and checks with the cowls on (as that's the way it will be flown, but that's just me). I know there are lots of discussions about cooling and Jon surprised me recently with my twin with large cowls when he advised to just blank 80% of the cowl and baffle /direct air around the cylinders. I can see the point to cool the engine adequately, but the trade off with the cowls removed its they will go cold very quickly in these winter conditions.
Hope this helps in some way,
Nice trailer setup there Ron.
How close are the props to the ground? Its only I noticed with George's electric (14x10) I am sure you can hear it trimming the grass (grass as tall/longer than the height the wheels) and my Dual Ace has a very springy nose wheel so if I make a poor landing it can just touch a prop.
Surprised it took 170g to get C of G, but then again my mossie has everything as far forward and some brass prop nuts..
Good luck, good preparation and as Jon says always have a plan B in mind and I am sure the maiden will be okay.
Don't forget to get someone to video it...the sound alone will be something special.
PS what's a 160 V weigh anyway?
Edited By Chris Walby on 29/12/2019 22:07:37
|Thread: Members Map|
It does show your location...Cockernhoe….perhaps you were in free flight mode that day!
PS rough location is okay with me, I would rather not have something like Google or another looking through my front window all be it I am probably been tracked by my phone anyway...now I wonder where I left that?
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