Here is a list of all the postings Chris Walby has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: The Ohmen|
I'll bring the drawing and build article up tomorrow afternoon to the flying field...discuss between flights or tea
|Thread: Twin glow motors for warbirds?|
If I won the lottery I was thinking more of this
|Thread: Servo power-up movement|
I am with C8 on this, had a few batteries fail and its normally under high load conditions when it becomes apparent.
Yes servos twitch on power up, some more than others but as long as there is full and free travel there should not be a problem.
PS I did have a UBEC and digital servos that would drop the voltage to the point the RX failed/rebooted, but it was found bench testing, The only time it did it was when all 3 servos were "stick bashed" at once, but if the model has been well flown then its a fault that has crept in.
|Thread: Twin glow motors for warbirds?|
Seagull with a pair of Laser 70's IMHO what could be better....ok a lottery win a pair of moki's, but the SG goes in the car. Start off talking to Jon at Laser engines and sometimes the wait is worth it.
And it does get through the 82dB noise test
|Thread: Forum 2020 Mass Build discussion.|
Hi, Having enjoyed the 2019 MB does anyone know what will be the 2020 model?
Normally there is a lively discussion on options so I though I might start things off here and see what every one's views are before someone far better than me makes the final decision!
Does anyone have a list of prior MB's just for reference?
|Thread: BMFA 'B' Test Video Available|
The stick tension helped as well as knowing what I was doing wrong...I thought it might have been the model until the instructor did 3 consecutive competition quality bunts and announced it flew quite well. Once landed he assisted with some finer points of trimming and then it was back to me!
Glad to be of help.
Tim, do you fly mode 1 or 2? Mode 2 its quite easy to add a little aileron as you move the elevator. If you can get anyone to watch your TX stick movements as you do the bunt. I tweaked up my aileron stick spring pressure + knew what I was doing wrong (once pointed out). Hope that helps
I passed my B 3 years ago and the emphasis was distinctly on controlled safe flight, it was stressed a number of times by the instructor prior to the test that I was not expected to fly competition level accuracy. I needed to demonstrate to the examiners that I was in control and could perform the required manoeuvres safely.
IMHO learning to fly on well mannered, robust low mass foam model is a two edged sword as it gets people flying and through the A test. The flip side is they then have much to learn about flying "less tolerant" higher wing loaded manhole covers. The B test should be encouraged as I learnt much from the different requirements, even if I still struggle with the bunt!.
|Thread: When it's a bit too windy!|
Well done and top marks for effort....it will never be too windy, with the right model
|Thread: Ailerons extending to wingtip|
Come on chaps no guessing and lets stick to the OP
Thanks for all the advice its been very helpful and on that basis plus there seems to be very few models with this configuration I will opt for solid wing tips. Its not so much avoiding damage as if I touch the wing tip on the ground I think the result will be very messy if not terminal.
A solid wingtip might just help a little bit with air flow over the tip and I though the aileron length was short compared to the adjacent flap. I'll move the aileron up to rib 26 which should compensate for the loss of aileron area. I don't think Kurt Tank would be too upset (have I let slip) as the mark went through a few variations in its development.
I'll do a build log in due course, but for the time being I have more questions than answers at the planning stage.
Thanks for everyone's input.
Should I stick as is or make the tip a complete block (LE to TE)?
Thanks Tim, I was wondering more what happens as it approaches stall.
The ones I was looking at are only the last 1/3 of the wing although quite wide and as a warbird I would not expect to have much deflection. I was looking through other warbird models and can't see any with this configuration (standing ready to be corrected!).
Cheers for the reply.
Looking at a set of plans and it got me thinking..
For warbirds and generally other models is there any specific reason for the ailerons not to extend to wing tip e.g. the aileron forms part of the wing tip?
How does a wing tip aileron type wing perform close to stall or is there no difference?
All views welcomed
|Thread: TN Concorde|
Watching with interest and BIG thanks for the nose wheel steering servo mod...I have been scratching my head trying to work out how to do it with wires and this or something like it might work for me!
IMHO just make sure to have enough thrust from your setup as TN's did not appear to be a "slow" flyer.
|Thread: Guess the fault|
Thanks for the info, I am newish to the hobby so use lipos and UBEC's for RX power. IMHO with digital servos I am not sure these RX packs are up to the job.
I was discussing dual supplies with a UK supplier of batteries, UBEC's ESC's and motors and for the model I had the recommendations was a 3S2200 lipo 20A UBEC as it has the capacity to maintain the RX even if a servo failed (burn the servo out).
Another dual supply UBEC I have discharges both batteries at the same rate, be interesting to see how the battery with the faulty cell would preform. I think you would only find it had a fault when recharging it as it have a different recharge Ah value.
Does anyone do a load test on RX packs as a maintenance check
|Thread: Better builder than pilot|
I agree with Cuban8, Flying circuits is not the issue, taking off is normally not too bad (although full rates and no expo on someone else's model was unpleasant).
Its the landings that get me. Trying to get a feel of how slow it will fly and what its about to do (pleasant or unpleasant) with out the benefit of high and speed for recovery just adds to the pressure!
IMHO, The giro settings for one model will not translate to another especially if they are quite different in design + if it runs out of airspeed it will fall out of the sky (controlled or uncontrolled).
My Renaissance at point of stall will very nearly descend harrier like (into a slight head wind) with no tendency to drop a wing so recommended if you want something without vices.
|Thread: Who wants to share a new Flair Baronette build?|
Sorry to hear of the incident.
So why do you think it pre-impact with full down elevator? If you just lost power (battery connection) then all of the controls would stay put (last position). If you were doing a bunt then yes full down or it moved on impact.
If the elevator servo failed it would have dived, but the motor would still be controllable, where as if the RX lost power you would have no control and hear/see the prop/motor go quite.
INHO is important to try and find the cause, would not be good to carry out the repair, fix what you think was the problem only to find out it was something else.
Good luck with the rebuild and please keep us posted, all the best.
|Thread: indestructible slow flyer....|
I have only been in the hobby for about 6 years and I would say that modern high wing ARTF trainers like the Riot/Kingfsher seem to be the preferred route. They fly quite slow, are easy to see and being foam are quite repairable. If not repairable then new parts are fairly easy to obtain.
This size model typically run off a 3S2200 battery which are cheap and give about 5 minutes flight time, normally this is enough as longer is harder to keep the concentration going. The big bonus is that transmitters can be buddy connected and your instructor can "take control" so as to avoid the ground!
IMHO, find a local club, see if they have instructors willing to assist and see what model/TX they suggest/can be buddy leaded.
Have a look on the forum for "Mass build" this years model (first year I have built one) flies really well despite my lack of building experience and there are lots of people will to help if you get stuck.
Other kit manufacturers are Tony Nijhuis, Cambrian and Cambria models.
If its indestructible, then I fly a 4-max Yeti delta, low cost and all of the important bits are as far away from the point as impact as possible!
Main thing...just keep asking questions and all the best.
|Thread: A newbie trying to save some money|
.... do people have a thing against mode 3 and 4? Can and does anyone fly these modes?
|Thread: TN Concorde|
I did see Tony fly it at the RCM&E fly-in and it looked quite stable and was okay on/off the grass where some foam EDF's would struggle.
If you don't mind mass production buy a HK Vampire along with the rest, but if you want something different then build it yourself.
Other designers have packed up as demand is too low to even produce established kits (even with modellers putting their names on the pre-order list).
You could have gone cheap with the gear, but then its a lot of time invested in the airframe only to find it struggles to fly or the U/C disintegrates on its first landing.
Its not on my list, but that won't stop me following your build log and giving you credit for supporting UK designer/suppliers.
Fortunately we are all different and that's what makes it interesting.
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