Here is a list of all the postings Chris Walby has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Discharging old Lipo batteries, revisited|
So when is it disposal time, excluding damage and cell failure being the catalyst?
That puffy it looks more like a sausage...but holds its capacity to 95% of rating and can give its all at its C rating?
So going back one stage, what is your criteria that the lipo has reached the end of its life?
Discharge/charge capacity compared with original rating? and what value?
Gone puffy and stays that way
Reduction in its C rating (lost its punch?
|Thread: Who wants a Warbird Replics Hurricane?|
Could you message me regarding the BH Mosquito as its very easy to gain additional weight & I might have a lighter solution.
Thanks for the update, no major rush as I have just about got the Vulcan off the building board and done nothing on the DC3 from where it was left! Did squeeze the FF 109 in though!
Best keep your lads under control we don't what them burning out and running a muck especially the one with all the hair!
|Thread: Kit builders, what would you like???|
Now with a careful bit of planning at the design stage with the wings and fuselage it should be possible to pack it down to a nice small size for transport/storage, so bigger the better!
There is a limitation for electric, but if it was a twin or even triple, the motors, ESC's and battery packs are economic compared to a single with a washing machine motor up front and cell packs larger than 6S.
Then again if its a war bird....should it not be IC (nearly went to the dark side with the 110....this could just be too tempting..!)
Hi, my money would be on the DH Hornet, buts that just because I like Mosquitos, agreed it would not be different enough to sell many.
I can't say what is out there and how tricky other designs are to construct, assuming Richard's are not as time consuming as out of date drawings and a wood pack! How about a Wellington?
I know the LMA guys have some Wellingtons but they are on the "large size! (as to be expected).
You guys knowledge is far greater than mine and what is out there originally, anything in the early WW2 period?
Oh there we go back to the Whirlwind!
|Thread: STOL Mk2 Help Required Please|
Don't worry about the flaps to start with for the first few flights as it looks like it has quite a high lift wing and if in doubt come in a little quicker.
Best IMHO is start with a small amount of flap and switch it in with plenty of height on your side, fly about and get used to what it does at stall (and how slow it will fly). Again if in doubt just land without flaps.
Some models have very high drag with flaps deployed & need 1/2 throttle just to stay in the air....or not (don't ask how I know , but tip stall at 20ft is not good).
|Thread: Max Thrust Riot review|
As big as you want unless they scrap the underside of the wing...Failing that hand launch
There are some nice large foam wheels that are very light, failing that additional elevator travel and a good dose of expo on a function switch.
|Thread: Missing Article - aerodynamics of biplanes|
Any help/assistance warmly welcomed.
I was just having a re-read of RCM&E "What goes up" and noticed (with interest) that the following article would be "aerodynamics of biplanes".
Does anyone know if this was ever published, if so how do I find a copy?
I now have a Wots Wot (electric) which is very nice, but it seems to have a couple of distinctive features I assume are due to it being a biplane that may be easily explained?
|Thread: Any Electricians Out There|
I'll have a look in the regs book tomorrow and see if there is any specific guidance, but the traditional method was to have a separate supply to a cooker point (interestingly diversity on the total load could be applied as you had four rings and an oven all pulling current, but not at the same time!).
With the advent of fan ovens which have lower loadings and hobs that are separate from ovens the dedicated cooker point is a bit obsolete, but should be there should someone in future install a combined unit (good practice, but not absolute requirement)
IMHO as long as each piece of equipment does not exceed 13A it can be connected to individual sockets/fuse spurs, the only limit was the area covered by the circuit.
There are other considerations which you mention e.g. what if the tumble dryer is on, washing machine, ovens, dishwasher, toaster/kettle and then the fridge cuts in? It would be reasonable to say that the total expected load would exceed the protective device (fuse or circuit breaker in the consumer unit) causing a nuisance trip.
The tack I would take is it "fit for purpose" for normal expected use (think of all the things you have on during Christmas day? but not everything that could possibly plugged in and switched on) and if it adds up to more than 32A you have grounds for a complaint.
|Thread: I knew I shouldn't be modelling when...|
Cheers Martin....still reeling from Phil's advice not to undercoat as it adds weight ! ops too late for that one!
Anyway just a case of spot the difference!
Then I thought I would just try it on the dolly....
Too busy looking at the front and the brake assembly, but not at prop clearance as it departs from dolly...More wood work trimming might do it.
Sort of...yesterday I decided to paint the Vulcan having bought a couple of tins of spray paint (small cans) and started with the underside to see how well it took.
Great.. with one wing and part of the fuselage completed the can ran out....now the phase "don't push a poor situation it only gets worse" should have stopped me, but...
On with the second can, well at least I can get the underside complete! That was until the second can ran out with 2 wings and part of the fuselage.....
A hunt around and I found some near matching acrylic paint and got the air brush out, with a bit of mixing (few drops of black) the match looked very good and thus I pressed on.....
I don't believe it... I ran out of paint before I finished the upper surfaces and back to the paint box...darn no more paint of a close colour, I can't stop now so but using 4 different primary colours I had something.
Pressing on with the painting its now all covered.....
The problem is I have painted it with my own unique shade of paint...of which I have no more left!
Sometimes very repetitive actions are carried out almost subconsciously and other times (like me) I should have just gone and got a coup of tea!
|Thread: Who wants a Warbird Replics Hurricane?|
Don't worry....I am going the way of electric...only as my entire fleet are that type, I may go to the dark side, but not with this one so if you have any questions just post away.
Mostly it depends on what stock of lipos you have, that sort of determines where you go with motor (and KV spec), the only thing I have found by experience it not to worry about weight with electric compared with IC.
If I remember Richard mentioned that the battery goes in the nose under the motor (plenty of room) and all of my electric converted IC (originally designed for IC) I have to add lead to get the C of G so rather than lead use a larger lipo and get more flight time.
PS I would shy away from a 320KV and go for a 580KV so you can get a decent prop on it....from experience!
|Thread: Spray painting camouflage pattern|
Thanks guys, free hand looks like the way to go although I think I'll have some fuzzy lines to start with so the underside first for me!
Jim....I live in awe, how you get those invasion strips so straight free hand I'll never know
Edited By Chris Walby on 10/02/2017 11:53:46
I have a 68 inch balsa model that needs a two colour camouflage scheme, could any of you chaps enlighten me as to how I can easily mask the gentle curves of the pattern for spray painting?
Thanks for your time
|Thread: What's the main radio brand you use 2017?|
Very interesting survey as this and previous surveys are obviously biased to the group of people on the forum and probably not that related to sales. ARTF and all included packages probably account for large quantities of sales all be it high volume. compared to low volume/high cost.
Well done for putting up the question (previous years and this one),
|Thread: Forum members' new models: Let's see them.|
I asked a question on another thread about visibility & colour schemes as my latest build FunFighter ME 109 should be on the quick side ! (thanks to all those that helped out)
If it survives my learning curve and makes it to summer I'll paint it a more standard colour scheme.
Okay sun glasses on!
|Thread: Paint suitable for servo leads?|
HK do some braded/woven sleeving which you can shorten and the diameter increases, then if you stretch it out (after feeding over the servo plugs) might work.
The sleeving comes in all sorts of colours as well as black. Ping me if you can't find it on the HK site
|Thread: See quads are useful|
The quad was no use at all as the guy still had to change the lamp!
I still don't know why they don't employ base jumpers....much faster on the way down and they would probably enjoy it.
|Thread: 68" Vulcan pusher flight controls question|
I don't think speed will be an issue for me....power to weigh is a challenge with pusher motors that far back + CofG is another challenge! Batteries are currently in the canopy area and a fair size as well. I am maxed out on props 9x8 so need to dolly launch or it will prop strike & the U/C nose wheel seems to have a mind all of its own! Wing joiners are a mare & ESC wiring is about 4 ft long.
Other than that once the building board is clear I'll finish it off and see what happens...
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