Here is a list of all the postings Paul Johnson 4 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Warbirds Replicas P51 Mustang|
Okay now I know a lot of you have received your kits... so who's done what?
But before we cover the 'covering'..
I had to wait for a good dust mask too turn up as after covid was told to avoid fumes, dust etc as still got a few problems due to it.
Anyway managed to sand the wing tips and leading edges of the wing... boy what a mess..
Good job I waited for that mask...
Also put in those rib supports that my kit needed after removing a lot of wood where the flap torsion bar was a pain.
You should not have this problem as the production models were corrected.
Next started planking the top of the wing and servo box, left room to be able to connect and sort out the links.
Now just got finish the bottom skin and the front locating dowels, fill in the dinks and cover the wing.
Edited By Paul Johnson 4 on 20/12/2020 18:43:37
Well a quick update. Tried the temp setting at 100°c and found this a lot better. No where near as many wrinkles or creases.
Will take some picts and post on it soon
When you were a lad a servo was a 'downstairs' member of staff.....
Them boys needed keeping in line... Jeeves sort that upstart out.
no massive progress but the flap servos are fitted. This is a information only picture as the other models will have a different arrangement. As I have used 2 servos I needed to reverse one. Doable with these particular servos but as the motor terminals are soldered to the control board took a bit of work. But hey good job I am an electronics engineer by trade...
I put a how to on the 109 forum if anyone needs to reference that, but there are guides all over the web as well.
I feel the screws in the torsion bars will loosen over time as the wood compresses so a little epoxy might not go adrift here.
It's 38 micron which is 1.5 thou in old money.
After covering a flap it was time to undertake the challenge of fitting it in place.
Now whilst contemplating my navel I thought of an idea and it turned out a reasonably easy fit.
First remove a small piece from the rib to allow access.
Glue torsion bar into flap and allow to dry fully.
Make sure that the hinge material is only a fraction longer than the torsion bar as it's a tight squeeze if you leave it too long.
Drop the flap in and align the hinges with your pre-cut slots you already made.
Push home, Pin and glue... job done!
The plate for the flap servo is DIFFERENT from the production models as previously mentioned but I wanted to share this solution for the flaps as it allows gluing the torsion bar in without risk of getting glue everywhere and having the flaps glued solid. I will 'patch' the material removed and post that later.
A big thanks to Ron for sending me a sample of the covering method he uses, laminate film, so first a test.
It goes on a treat and to test adhesion pulled a piece off and as you can see it stripped a layer of balsa with it showing how well it is fixed in place. it also fits curves very well.
The thing that impressed me was the increased strength it added to the balsa. I am going to cover this model in it.
Again thanks Ron.
Servos fitted with ply blocks, this is just my little way of fitting them, for the bish bash boshers out there you could also hot glue them in .
Well the second wing is at the same build level..
Time to join them.
But before you do you will need to trim the main spar brace at the front as this will foul the sheeting in the wheel well.
You need to reduce the length of these by about 4 mm.
And now the joining...
We are gathered here today..... oopps wrong type of joining
Those Polish pilots had one saying..... repeat please..... repeat please....
Daga daga daga.....
That's no head cold it's new model fever...
That is a good motor, I have one in a slightly larger air frame. It is a bit physically bigger than the FMS one but will do the job, obviously you will have to check all the alignment of motor to cowl etc as you go. The motor also has a shaft which extends rearwards when you fit the prop adapter, this is removed using a dremel on mine. This will protrude into the battery box if you don't remove it. The FMS one does not have this shaft sticking out the back.
Provided you follow the build and the manual you will have no problems. Just take your time, check it twice before you cut anything.
Anything you aren't sure of ask on here.
Edited By Paul Johnson 4 on 22/11/2020 18:24:56
Well I have met the 'Boys' on many an occasion but have never seen ART.... cousin?
Well while you lucky lads who have been sniffing the contents of your 'Labelled' boxes trying to find room on the cluttered workbench.
I have been slaving away trying to get the left wing to the same point as the right.
I have to finish lining the wheel well and then glue the wing tip on.
The old lump of expanded polystyrene helps to lower the 'dings' in the sheeting.
Just had to take a couple more pictures of the flaps as they are really worth the time and effort .
I mean come on guys don't they look sexy....!
I can see Nigel right now... laughing like Dick Dastardly's dog Muttly.
Damn it guys will you lot shuddup about box labels...
Rolled plans.... box labels... na nany na na...
Look out... Richard's loose with a hammer..!
Offered up the two wing halves and found you will need to trim the lower spar to aid assembly other wise it fouls on the skin.
Hey now Kickapoo would have been just right...
Renown for kicking the shite out of the enemy ...
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