Here is a list of all the postings Paul Johnson 4 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Warbird Replicas Bf 109 club.|
Graham she does have an as3x receiver but the gyro is currently switched off. I am making a few adjustments to the elevator though, needs a little more throw and need to make sure the flaps are asynchronous, Aha...that explains why Richard was leaning to one side whilst adjusting the trim. I'll try to get another session with Richard and Glynn, Glynn has been getting first class at aerial photography.
It was because the sun was hot really..
Well had a little time to off this week so had to make the most of the weather...plus a hand from Richard (he did the hard work) The 109 had her first flight. We had an issue with the prop vibrating and didn't do the spinner any favours but when the spinner parted company Richard brought her in nicely... he was sweating slightly . Glad he was there. Anyway for your pleasure a low pass before the spinner departed.
|Thread: Warbird Replicas Bf 110 club.|
Yes I did notice, easier than you think once you have a go eh!
No I haven't flown her yet. Work has got in the way. I am hoping to rectify that very soon. I will add when she flies.
|Thread: Warbird Replicas Spitfire LF mk IXc|
Nice flight Dick, good landing too. Did remind me of that song 'you picked a nice to leave me loose wheel...'
What didn't drop in for a coffee ?
Really nice job Dick, a build to be proud of.
|Thread: Warbird Replicas Bf 109 club.|
It's was a pleasure mate.... oh did you finish the other wing???
Sorry Graham... they are bottom hinged and pinned..!
I'm fine thanks. I used the same hinges that Richard put in the kits. They were pinned with cocktails sticks. Then covered.
I had a nice evening with Richard at his club on Wednesday. He invited me to bring the 109 as he gave a session on weathering and paneling. It was interesting to see how his club colleagues began to realise just how easy it is. I don't think Glynn was too impressed with me using his FW190 as a Guinea pig, he liked how it looked.... but... I only did one wing to show the difference. I wonder if he has finished the other side yet?
Watch it you... my I remind you of a exhaust with no hole in it...!
The Spektrum receivers have to be set up remotely using a blue tooth 'dongle' (gismo that plugs into the receiver) and connected via a phone app. Or by a laptop and seperate usb lead. (all Extras to the receiver).
So unless you have a reasonable understanding of the system you will find it daunting.
( I'm an electronic engineer by trade and I had to go through it quite a few time to get it all talking to the app and receivers, then you have to test during flight to set up the feedback gains, this can be done remotely on the Spektrum Tx's with telemetry)
Still interested? Don't want to put you off if you fancy a go but do do some research before outlaying for one as they are expensive.
Oh by the way they do work really well though as Glynn said.
Thanks for the Kind offer Glynn,
All my warbirds from Richard have the Spektrum AS3X 7 channel receivers in already.
Being switchable from the TX it's nice to have if the wind decides to have a go..!
P.S. anyone know what a clam day looks like lately?
Looking good. Decided on a colour scheme yet?
I have none on mine. No doubt this will spark some debates
I have yet to maiden her so have as yet no feedback for you.
In my case downthrust, tends to have more prevalence to high wing aircraft.
Side thrust again can be added by washers or mixing rudder to throttle...
Or by a AS3X receiver.... it's got heading hold....
I'll let you know how I get on when she gets maidened..
I held a piece of paper along the lines to create an edge for the 'dust' I didn't use it to blend them in. The best advise Richard gave me in the past was to look at aircraft reference books that have colour plates of the subject but those that are not true photo's. the artist creates an illusion of a 3D surface on flat paper. These very often show how to create a '3D' impression through shading. Richard has previously, on the forums, suggested the use of pastel chalks and paper to create the shading. If you rub the chalk onto the paper, line the paper with a panel line then using your finger rub the chalk in the direction of the airflow you will create a good shading effect. The beauty of using chalk before trying an airbrush and paint is that if you don't like it it's easy to remove.
Don't try to re invent the wheel by trying to have an artists eye for shading...... cheat and pinch their ideas from their drawings...
Richard is correct in that anyone can pay mega bucks to have someone create a model that is a work of art. What we are trying to achieve is an illusion that passes close to the real thing from a few feet away. By us non artist, run of the mill hobbyists.
If you create scale accurate panel lines and individual rivets on the scale we work with you can't see these from anything but a foot away from the model and then with our eyesight... well you get the idea.
Next time your at a museum see how close you have to get to the thing to actually see that sort of detail. Let alone from the air!
Just a quick follow up for the brave who have not tried the weathering before and may wish to have a go.
After you have undercoated and then put your top coat on I used a black thin permanent marker to mark the panel lines, if you are nervous as I was on the first attempt use a pencil. This can be erased using a simple rubber if it's not where you want it.
Once the black lines are draw, highlight each black line with a white pen, ink or gel pens work, draw the same side to keep them looking consistent, I used out board for the wings and behind, then for the fuz, behind and below. You can see it if you look at the pictures. For weathering and shading I used Humbrol dust wash on the upper surfaces and Humbrol ochre on the underside. This was done using a cheapy airbrush and a piece of paper to prevent overspray at the front of the panel lines again look at the picture .
For the exhaust smoke I used Tamiya smoke lightly built up to I thought it looked ok. it's difficult to over do this one as it goes on very opaque. I also used Humbrol oil wash, which is a gloss, to show some 'leaks' in appropriate places.
Go on have a go you know you want too...!
Thanks for the high praise guys. Glynn, told you the MOAMS would work.....
Richard is definitely right about it being a process that is learnt...
It's certainly not difficult..... what is does take is the courage to try it out on your newly painted model that you have painstakingly built, painted and now your about to draw lines, rub black half dried paint on it. ..... Then when you have....wow it's worth it.
Oh just remembered time to get back on the BF110 thread..
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