Here is a list of all the postings Stuart Marsden has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Max Riot Motor alternatives|
Hi all, if you go back to the beginning of this string, I began this and the net result is the motor recommended by Brian is really good and still giving 7minutes with 2500mm 4 cell packs and leaving 3,7volts per cell. I hope the Donkey motor is still available. I also took the metal block out of the nose and push my cells back to the wing to move the c of g back, making a perfect responsive aircraft. I first noticed the c of g could go back when I threw a prop in flight on the old motor and 3 cell packs, as she glided down in a really flat glide. I hope this helps, the Riot is a fantastic all round aircraft. Cheers all.
|Thread: P20 free flight plans and help|
Obviously not a great deal of interest in P20. I have decided design my own. I will post some images to see if there's any interest. Best regards Stuart
Please help with plans, others flying P20, as I would like to pursue this class at Impington. Cheers Stuart Marsden.
|Thread: Crack Yak55 Lite|
Thanks for this the postman is due on Wednesday, I have opted for 430mah batteries, I hope these don't prove to be too heavy. Cheers Stuart
Has anyone built and flown one of these from Electricwingman. I have ordered the model and power train and intend to use HS55 servos with 430mah 2 pack cells and lite Lemon receiver. Comments please
|Thread: Super sixty|
Ok, let's see if time will provide some answers for today. I am about to convert a well made Super Sixty, Solatex covered, so not the lightest but not heavy. Motor esc and cell numbers to fly efficiently with low draw please? When I say low draw, my Mercury Matador is using a motor equivalent to a 20 if and runs on3 cells of only 1300 math and poodles beautifully for 20 minutes without over discharge of the cells. I would like to replicate this with my Super Sixty. Cheers.SM
|Thread: Ares Sopwith Pup replace motor and gearbox|
Thank you, this is what I have done so far, rather than tape, I have used Por, but I fancy a little screw based solution. Perhaps I am being fussy and should just expect to tape, bash and tape again. Cheers Stuart
I have one of these superb models and fly indoors within a gymnasium. All is well but there are quite a few midairs etc. Parts are available and I am about to start cutting. Ideally my repair is going to give long term access to the inside of the model. There must be a good few of you having already done this. Your ideas please. Cheers Stuart
|Thread: Chilli Breeze electric|
This Forum is great. I started this post and it has amazed me me with the amount of interest and how many modeller have built and flown this wonderful aircraft. As a point of interest, I moved the undercarriage as in earlier posts but have enjoyed flying with the original Irvine 36 so much, I have yet to convert to electric. I am of a mind to build another for electric flight, as your posts with modifications for electric flight make it a better betas my IC version has a foam wing and a built up wing in my mind would be better. Happy New Year to all. SM.
|Thread: Vapor replacement esc and servo block|
Thanks, I have been busy and missed your post, I will call Steve Webb tomorrow. Cheers Stuart
Many thanks for this, it is definitely becoming a throw away society. It appears it is as cheap to buy another model and pinch the gear! Once Fairbanks and I probably have a go.
I have noticed although out of stock Hobbyking do a combined servo and esc block at 10gms with lead which may be suitable as a replacement for my duff unit in the vapour. The unit at around £17 is far cheaper than the also unavailable original product. Has anyone else experience of these matters?. Cheers Stuart Marsden
|Thread: Micro Stik gear into free flight models for indoor RC|
Thanks Dennis, this looks great. The first glimpse shows me a Cloud Tramp, I built loads of these with my nightclass group which I ran twenty years ago, we flew them at Old Warden. I will take more time and look through for likely projects. Once again, thanks, Stuart
Many thanks Stephen. After a 10 year break, I came back a couple of years ago and enjoy most disciplines of our wonderful sport. I have my hand back in flying mainly sports acrobatics and scale at Warboys and Snettisham, outside. I now find myself as a member of Impington, where just about all manner of indoor and outdoor activity is practised. When I left the Hobby Ikara Butterflies where all the rage and an excellent introduction to indoor flying, which was becoming more popular. How things have moved on with regard to indoor RC, Impington now has a timed mix of RC and free flight at the weekly meetings. I have dug out an old Butterfly and purchased a ready built Sopwith Pup as well as a second hand Vapor. The itch is now to build and fly both indoor free flight and indoor RC. Thanks for all your help, I will study the links you have provided and go from there. Best regards Stuart.
Many thanks for this. Anymore help much appreciated
Hi all, Happy Christmas and New year. I have recently joined IVCMAC.where a mix of every type of aeromodelling takes place. I have a Vapor and a few other models and this has given me the idea of converting my Puffin ( co2 free flight, under an ounce) into indoor RC. I have seen a couple of Micro Stiks, and this looks promising, however it looks like they are no longer available. Help please, I am happy to just access gear and start from there, if this is the only way forward. Experience please and contact details of suppliers. Best regards Stuart.
|Thread: Vampire Hobby King retract screws|
Many thanks for your reply, I have now solved the problem. There are flats on each side of the legs. The grub screws are so small in depth, only 3mm, they where there all the time with the smallest Allen key to tighten I had screwed in M3 bolts what I thought was to the leg, where infact the grub screws where still there but so loose. A good light and further investigation solved the problem. Cheers Stuart
I have just completed a Hobby King Vampire mk6. Using all the recommended, I have flown twice, 4 cells 2200 40c Turnigy, 5 minutes mixed flying, 3.8 left in each cell. Two smooth landings (greased even).I picked up the model and one of the main u undercarriage legs fell to the floor. On investigation there are no retaining grub screws to hold the lugs in place, only empty threaded M3 holes on each side. So lucky not to have any damage, but the other leg appears to be solid fixed even without the screws. Has anyone else had this? Screwing M3 bolts into the threaded holes is smooth and it is definitely the correct thread, but they won,t screw in to pinch the leg on either side. It looks like the missing screws must have a forward point. Are these available, comments please. Cheers Stuart
|Thread: Durafly Vampire|
I have just put together a Mk6 and thought I would share my findings. I used 8mm x .5 carbon to strengthen booms and although this adds minimal weight. I have had to abandon the battery strap as my c of g requires the 4 cell 2200mm(recommended) to pushed hard into the nose secured with Velcro and foam packing. The flying however although short at 4 minutes is brilliant. I have a 4000 4 cell pack and I will try it, but expect the model will loose its feel and probably not fly for much longer. Hope this helps.
|Thread: Hobby King Venom|
Thanks all this post has diversified but that's great. I have a problem. I am just wiring up and find I have 2 leads from different parts of the sec. When I wire either in I don't have any action from the fan, although everything else operates. Do I use a Y lead and put into throw. Does or has anyone else come across this.Cheers Stuart
Want the latest issue of RCM&E? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!