Here is a list of all the postings Bruce Collinson has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Lightwight foam cowl, Tissue with EZE Dope or thinned PVA?|
Re KC and Erf's references to brown paper, that's what Richard Wills advocates for his Warbird Replicas, of which much has been written here in the last month. Soak for 10 mins in slightly diluted pva, allegedly goes round compound curves.
|Thread: Carbon Fibre Tubes|
Mind the dust, try candle wax between them; we use it on carbon fly rods to prevent binding; maybe try a short section first, as the ferrule even on a 15' salmon rod is about 3". I'm told the worst thing you can do to a stuck ferrule is squirt WD 40 down it. Order new rod.
|Thread: Is the hobby dying/dead|
Agree with Gangster entirely re sites, which are very hard to find and very easy to lose. Who in their right mind would sit back whilst one of the 5% who populate most parts of society ruins it for the safe, sensible majority?
On the other hand, I think the prognosis re old flatulences is slightly gloomy. NLMC has an average age of say 60-odd BUT there is a hard core of 40, 50 yr olds and some younger entry too, lots of people like me still continuing to make the wheels of commerce rotate (and yes we do gravitate to ARTF and, heaven forbid, foamies, as there aren't enough hours in the day) and some of whom will step up to the plate whenever circumstances require them to do so.
Dead? Not if this afternoon was anything to go by. LMS never been busier. Bulk order for Laser 7.5% being assembled. 72 yr old shinning over a barbed wire fence to retrieve an Osama full of former Wot 4. Ace fun.
|Thread: Laser Engines - Technical questions|
Thank you Gary, I'll enquire direct.
I can't see it on MT website (the low oil fuel). Wassit called?
To save me going back miles whilst at work, is there a determinant point/date/age for Lasers to use the low oil fuel? Most of mine are under 3 yrs old but 2 100s and my 120 are nearer 10 yrs old.
|Thread: Advice - A steady hack|
Mine all flew spot on with the 4500-5000 mAh LiPos pushed as far back as the standard tray permits, albeit withouit indulging in the 3/8" dowel pushrod. I suspect they are heavier than needed behind the t/e bolt plate as even I've never broken anything that far back.
Hypothetical, I deduce that Robin has swerved off at the 11th hour towards something a little less utilitarian.
I have a foam Wot 4 which will fly on a 2200 3S but I can’t envisage a built kit or ARTF Wot 4 flying satisfactorily on less than a big 3S and all two and a half of mine have used the same power train derived from 5000 4s. The foam one has had a fault with short wing fixing spigots which I discovered at the bottom of a very exuberant loop. That was 4 years ago and Ripmax did hold their hands up and replace it, eventually.
I think what RC PF writes above may tend to confirm that to fly a decent 6-7 minutes, you’re best starting with a 4s.
The smaller foam version is a lot lighter and not so good in wind.
The large number of Wot 4s regularly flown at my club are about 40% kit built, therefore with foam cored wings, and 60% ARTF, but most are flown with 4 strokes from 70 to 100 (no 2 strokes at my club). There are slightly fewer Acrowots, again mainly ic and mostly ARTFs.
I looked at Sebart a few months back and was tempted, although I came away with the impression of very lightly built, very aerobatic 3D models which scarcely fit my idea of a hack, which the Wot 4 definitely is.
If I recall, you started this thread predicated on some LiPos you already have. There’s undoubtedly an advantage in standardising LiPos (and plugs; XTs are easier to solder than Deans!) but if you persist you’ll end up either compromising your next model, or investing in more LiPos which is what I’ve done.
My earlier shout outs are based on excellent advice and service from both, incidentally. Whilst rarely the cheapest, I’m consciously reducing my dependence on China.
Olympus does indeed need 6s LiPos, £80-110 depending on quality. It flies really well. I had mine barely used, for classic F3A practice. Effectively it’s a bigger version of the Explorer which uses 3S 2200, £20 from 4 Max for non-puffy batteries or £10 for ....nothing like as good in a breeze but fully aerobatic and will go in most cars in one piece. The Olympus is a faff to build and strip and if you do go that route, swap the wing bolts for cap head (from Model Fixings, naturally) and glue a magnet to dowel to extract them.
I’ m a big fan of both Wot 4s and Acrowots. Both available as ARTF and choice of electric or IC. Remember to buy the separate bespoke power kit. It’s possible to fly either on 4s although my Acrowots fly 5s which would need surgery on a Wot 4. The Acrowot you referred to above is apparently the XL version and a totally different proposition needing more space in every sense.
Faults? Mainly in the undercarriage department. Standard metal u/c and foam wheels are bouncy and the u/c plate on each tends to be badly glued. Aftermarket wheels help a bit. Depending on the surface you would fly from, reinforcement of the plate during assembly, doubling the plate and/or using M5 nylon bolts (Model Fixings, naturally) will save the plate at the cost of a pair of bolts. Otherwise, the supplied hardware is lightweight apart from the elevator pushrod which is big, crude and heavy.
Won’t work with your LiPos though. George Worley at 4Max will spec the whole power train for you.
Wot 4 is easier to fly, Acrowot is ultimately more engaging.
Do let us know what you decide!
|Thread: Saito exhaust|
Yep. Exactly the same as you. Two things together fixed it, and these are not my bright ideas, these are from my elders and betters.
High temp silicone on degreased threads; I used Pro Seal Red.
Fit a bracket, 1/4” brass strip e.g., soft mount to the firewall or suitable structure. If I could I’d offer the pics of my big Yak with it. Wrap it round the exhaust flange, fit a pinch bolt then a rubber mount onto the airframe.
doesnt seem to affect Saito 100s; maybe to do with vibration/harmonics. Hope this helps.
|Thread: New in North Yorks|
Despite its title, North Leeds MFC flies from a site between Stainburn/Huby in N Yorks. We have capacity for new members, preferably with GSOH and without glow 2 strokes which aren't permitted. Just about anything else goes, even the Dark Side (quads).
You'd be welcome to call in, there's somebody there most of the time in this weather. If of interest, pm me and I'll try to meet you there.
|Thread: Hatch Catch|
I’m with KC, the turnbuckle made from a servo arm is pretty bombproof, at slight cosmetic cost. I’ve recently fitted one to a mid size foam F3A by simply letting a short piece of 3/8 hardwood into the foam, I think I used polyurethane glue, 4 faces stuck to the foam and it works a treat. I used the same on my Acrowot, where the hatch is underneath and there’s a ply plate to fasten to. Too many hatches and canopies here parted in flight when relying on the maker’s ideas.
Spring loaded latches are prone to sticking and fracturing, at least in my hands.
|Thread: Warbird Replicas Spitfire LF mk IXc|
Well that's your pilot painted then! Yeras ago I had a client, an aeromodeller and his son and they were the go-to bodyshop in town. His planes were immaculate. I've a retro F3A ready for work but my mate with spraying things is nervous abour Corvids so it sits glowering at me in the mancave.
The brown paper in the farmshop is grocery type on a gurt roll and I spend a lot of money there so I am banking on a cadge, just like stirring sticks for epoxy and pvc gloves for anything, FOC from the independent filling station I always use. Should I weigh a sample? Or even test it on a curved surface? Default is 15gm glasscloth but I'd really like to try to stick to the designer's methods within reason. He's finished exponentially more of them than I have!
Been meaning to say, I found a couple of things the hard way, despite your endless help and the excellent build logs on here. EG dry build every part as far as possible; check angles of the root rib dihedral and the aileron sub rib very carefully; install the front spar before reinforcing the u/c plate; I found it far easier to skin in 4 parts, using the second section referencing the aileron cutout to locate it; beware when building the jigs, one is asymmetric; make sure the u/c plate ids the right way round ....
If I wasn't technophobic (one box, 19 wires, all different - whose idea was THAT?) and could post pics and wasn't such a bad builder I'd post it but would it be of any use to potential builders of a similar low standard to set these out sequentially? BTW you'll know this is far from criticism, I'm loving most of it, the retracts and pilot arrived and are yet another journey, some of it with Humbrol ...I'm even eyeing up a large roll of brown paper at the local farmshop!
All the best,
|Thread: Electric or not?|
Agree with Capt. K re hubs on electric APC props, perhaps more so than their IC props. V. interesting re Aeronaut, never tried one. 4Max wooden electric seem good but only on a rather unscientific basis, and they are more fragile than APC.
|Thread: 4Max batteries - any good?|
I have them from 2S to 6S, some have been hammered in my hack Wot 4 and unlike other widely advertised headline brands, none has puffed, all are behaving themselves and I now default to them. They have over-length leads. Why is there an innate reluctance to cut a lot off them? At least one has the choice.
|Thread: Electric help required|
Welcome back to the fold!
You could do much worse than speak to George Worley who is 4Max, who will be able to specify and supply the entire power train and all of the accessories needed to hook it up. My experience of his equipment is that although presumably mainly Chinese, it is robust and I particularly like his LiPos. He is a helpful fount of advice and information.
You could probably undercut him at somewhere like Hobbyking but penny wise ....
|Thread: Electric or not?|
I never have and wouldn’t, I think the weight is the issue but where there is a bespoke prop, why risk it? Doubtless the electrickery wizards will weigh in with the science very soon.
|Thread: Which Glue|
You could do a lot worse than surf Deluxe Materials’ website. They not only have an adhesive for virtually any application, there are (gratifyingly) short and sweet video tutorials on applications and use. The products are widely available.
Anything Pacer/Zap has been very satisfactory for me in a wide range of uses, besides model planes, but isn’t cheap.
oh and Deluxe; it’s a British company. Looks like Huawei will not get the 5G gig after all.
|Thread: OS 110 FS|
All, esp. ED/Jon,
Clubmate who taught me lost the rear end of his exhaust mid flight and I offered to post on here in case somebody’s scrap/bits box might be hiding one. Missing parts are the rear outlet, long bolt and fixing but but clearly an entire silencer would hit the spot.
Appropriate money could change hands.
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