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Member postings for Jonathan M

Here is a list of all the postings Jonathan M has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: What WOT 4 (ARTF electric)?
22/08/2019 09:12:05

Jeff, I agree entirely with Bob, your spare motor at circa 500W will be too puny for the 53" ARTF. Mine (see my last few posts above) weighs 5.25lbs with a 4s 4250mAh, and its 4-Max 3547 puts out approx 680W. This equals 130W/lb and the flying reflects this - circuits and calm aeros for up to 12mins or more aggressive flying for up to 10 - and any less grunt would be pointless. In fact I'm going to try a larger motor in this Autumn, a (spare to me) Overlander that puts out 900W, which will theoretically give 170W/lb... whether my flying would then improve is anyone's guess!!

Your spare motor would probably work fine with the smaller Wot4 balsa ARTF with much cheaper 3s Lipos (£20 versus about £60), work out the output/weight figs yourself. A club mate bought the smaller one (because he has tons of 3s batteries) and it flies fine, but I much prefer the size and weight of the full-size version, which has proved itself over and over again this windy summer, and which still fits fully-assembled in my boot.


Thread: Middle Phase AGAIN
21/07/2019 06:55:12

Too much kit, too confusing.

You also need to decide what you're going to use your MP for.

If slope primary trainer, then leave it as it is on rudder and elevator. Bungee-launching will just see you zoom up and glide straight down each time - if this is what you want to do then buy/build something much lighter designed specifically for this task.

If you want to fit ailerons for proper slope flying (a different beast altogether), then note that the primary wing has a flat bottom section and dihedral. The advanced wing (available separately from Chris Foss) is semi-symmetrical with no dihedral.

I fitted Hitec 85MG servos all round on mine.

I secured both the wing and tailplane with nylon screws into captive nuts: 5mm for the wing, 2 or 3mm for the tailplane (I forget which). Your's has dowels for the wing rubber bands (buy a couple of packs of different sizes from SLEC and see which fits best). The tailplane also originally designed to rubber-band on.

My build thread here: Middle Phase Aileron Wing Build

Hope this helps.


Thread: How to Attach Photos
15/07/2019 17:35:53

Second from the right on the top line above where you type a post is an icon of a camera (next to the smilie).

Click on this camera icon and you'll be directed to your album(s).

On your albums page click on the picture you want to upload the click the green OK button at the bottom.

The picture will then appear in the body of your text.

If you have two or more albums, select the relevant album first, then the picture.

You can't do a bulk upload, just one picture at a time, then go back to album and select another, etc.

Edited By Jonathan M on 15/07/2019 17:37:14

Thread: Local Model Shops
03/07/2019 15:24:23

I just order anything I need online - usually from one of half a dozen or so well-known internet retailers whose specialities and websites I now know quite well, but also sometimes from a new-to-me retailer because they're the only place that have the exact item I need. If I have any technical questions etc then I phone before placing the order online.

I probably spend a couple of hundred pounds a year extra on carriage charges, but save the equivalent in transport costs - and most importantly in time not wasted driving around southern England.

Not knocking any local model shops as such, just being pragmatic as its 2019 and I live in the sticks with nothing in the form of a LMS within an hour's driving distance or longer.

Edited By Jonathan M on 03/07/2019 15:25:12

Thread: Local club attendance
03/07/2019 15:08:13
Posted by kevin b on 03/07/2019 14:52:48:
However, even though it is agricultural land it will still be subject to the 28 day rule and if someone uses it for any other purpose than agriculture for more than 28 days in the year, then you have to get permission. The reason I know this is that I own the field next to my house and can only fly on it for 28 days per year without council permission.

Without suggesting you break any laws, if you however had already used up your 28 days allocation (would popping along for half an hour one evening in the summer count as a whole official 'day'?) I'm sure you could squeeze in a few more quiet sessions before winter set in each year.

There's a field near me which is only ever grown for hay which is cut and baled before mid-summer, and which is occasionally used by dog-walkers and the odd bloke parking his camper-van and then launching his motorised paraglider. Its my field of choice for trimming small rubber scale FF models and practicing with my DLG. Before I got my A Cert it was also one of the places I went to practice with my Riot (can't fly alone at my club without an A).

Of course the proper place for IC etc is the club field itself.

Thread: Looking for a flat pack high wing leccy trainer that will fit in my car boot
03/07/2019 10:17:18

Nifty, glad to be of help.

BTW, this is what happened to my student's Graduate trainer on Monday evening: near the top of the climb-out a strong gust came in and the wing promptly separated from the fuselage! The fuselage then plummeted while the wing floated down on its own. It seems that one of the short lugs at the LE decided to dislocate or de-bond, thus the foam under the rear mounting-plate got stressed and completely broke away.

These cheap lightweight foamies are okay for a student to practice on alone in calm weather once they've got the basics of takeoffs and landings etc nailed. But for primary training with an instructor they need a proper heavier trainer with buddy-box, else progress remains slow and intermittent, and (in my opinion) unnecessary anxieties and rubbish habits are introduced.


02/07/2019 23:09:33

Get a car with a bigger boot...?

Okay, keep the car but, whilst I'm exploring theoretical if not entirely obvious solutions, how about finding a way to convert your Boomerang II wing into two halves, if you have the skills: cut at middle, make good the join-area with two new root-ribs and conjure up a robust joining-rod solution?

I make this suggestion because I've frankly come to the conclusion (having a student struggling to make progress because his lightweight foam trainer, something called a Graduate, has spent the last few weeks being buffeted around the sky) that a larger model with presence and good wing-loading will do the job of flying properly in these normally windy islands, and in your case the Cumbrian coast's sea-breezes. And you're already used to it as your home-based trainer.

Just a thought.

Thread: Local club attendance
02/07/2019 08:23:12
Posted by Mike T on 02/07/2019 01:12:05:

I'm seriously considering some kidology and putting the word about that we're restricting our numbers and starting a waiting list for new members. The lure of exclusivity!

That'll only work if you also double your prices wink

01/07/2019 22:03:33

Same here - but don't sweat it. You've got a field, you've got plenty enough subs coming in, and you can get on with your flying without a huge crowd each time - what's not to like?

Thread: Switching Brand
29/06/2019 14:25:55
Posted by Foxfan on 28/06/2019 18:44:03:

Thanks, gents, very clear and informative. I like the look of the Horus over the Taranis.

However Open Tx, companions, etc. is all Double Dutch to me, so maybe, if I ever need an 8 channel I'd better stick to something simpler!


Can a complete computer phobe like me understand the programming? Is it worth somebody who only wants to fly a scale or sport model of smaller size smoothly and realistically going beyond a basic set?

You don't need to be a computerista in the slightest to use the Taranis, nor to get started do you need to worry about programming it via Companion, nor do you have to watch countless You Tube how-to videos.

I bought the basic Taranis X9D Plus transmitter (half the cost of the Horus with virtually all the same functionality) and a copy of this spiral-bound Taranis X9D Plus OpenTx user manual. I just read the intro, then followed the instructions and in a trice I'd programmed my four-servo slope-soarer, then I copied this over as the template for my Wot4 to which I added motor on the throttle-stick, etc.

Anyone who can already fly and who's previously learnt to set up and fine-tune a new model on any other brand of radio won't have any real problem. Being an open system its incredibly powerful to programme for specialist tasks (e.g. F3K) but the average sports flier doesn't have to go there - and there are well-regarded free templates available online for such aircraft.

Thread: How does a BMFA Country Member get an A Certificate?
29/06/2019 07:36:40

Good to see the BMFA using You Tube as an educational tool. Useful on the A Cert video to have camera-work from alongside and from birds-eye view via drone as well as from the usual static position on the ground. Would have been helpful (for learners) to have also had sub-titles for each component of the flying part.

It would be good to see the B Cert version once that is produced, again with sub-titles for each discrete part of the 'schedule' so to speak. At the moment there appears to only be one good (non-simulator) version of the complete 'schedule' online: B Cert video

Moving on (and waaay above my own pay-grade), this is first class material: F3A Introduction, Explanation and Demonstration (5 videos)

Thread: RCME June 1994.
28/06/2019 07:52:54

I can see the issues more clearly now.

Retracts would be slick to factor in, but I'd foresee the wheels and wells getting right covered in fuel residue in my IC version, which a fixed U/C would avoid.

Either type though leads to a possible third solution for securing bearers in a foam wing - which occurred to me having seen Bob's/Piers' half-buried plate for retracts.

This would have slots for ply plates (either two narrow ones as 'cross-beam' foundations for fixed U/C surface-bearers or single wider ones with cutouts for retract casings) first cut into the wing from the L/E of the foam, i.e. before the balsa L/E is later glued on. These slots would be long enough to penetrate down the chord of the wing (the direction in which torsional forces need to be contained) and the ply then buried in with expanding glue. Excavations would then be made through the underside of the wings - either for fixed U/C bearers to contact with and be secured to the buried ply cross-pieces, or for retracts directly down to the cutouts etc.

The main technical challenge would be in accurately boring down the middle of the wing section to 'mill-out' the foam, but if the ply plates were left long enough initially (to be flushed off later before the L/E is glued on) then the milling out could be a bit oversize, the sacrificial overhangs would provide a reference and adjustment-point for accurate alignment down the centreline of the chord (or angled as desired), and the expanding glue would do the rest.

Just an idea.

27/06/2019 06:36:48

The wheels are actually lower down - we'll get 'round' to re-inventing those shortly...! wink

Talking of lower down (and given that this is all hypothetical at present as I'll only be starting the CB later), how would one deal with retract units in a foam-veneer wing? Same problem?

26/06/2019 09:46:13

Fun thinking this through together...

A single 'dihedral-brace' piece of ply is doable, but would need to be tapered in thickness towards each end (as well as faired slightly across the width to match the wing camber). It'd be simpler to assume the wing-bandage will give enough binding strength and just make separate ply pieces - although these could then be doweled together at the root for extra security. The aft-running feet can remain separate with their own saddle-clamps (avoids lengthening the main run of torque-spring any further). My sketch wasn't to proper scale, but the feet don't need to be quite that long as shown, and of course the clamps would position right by the bends.

The only reason I left the outboard ends longer (as per the built-up wing plan) was to spread out any shock-force up the main UC leg, but the ply could now of course be wider rather than longer to achieve the same outcome.

I'd radius the corners (say 5mm rad) and scribe these in to avoid the weakness of hard stress points in the veneered foam.

26/06/2019 08:27:09

Saving the nation's broom-handles for their proper flight-modes...

...and developing kc's extremely sensible theory, how about just using L-shaped ply plates on the underside only, meeting in the middle as before, and with each fat foot mostly under the glassed bandage?

This would spread the twisting forces under the now horizontal feet across a wide enough area of ply over fully intact foam. Simpler to construct, less intrusive (nothing on top of the wing or going through the foam interior), and simpler to repair if needed. This extends the length of the main torque-arm only very slightly so shouldn't make much difference to the springiness of the UC, and total weight surely no more than the through-wing variants.


PS Sketch not to scale.

PPS Spare plan now posted to first respondent by PM... for an electric version.

Edited By Jonathan M on 26/06/2019 08:33:16

25/06/2019 07:43:37

As I'm currently witch-less I've decided to forego shortening my own broom, but have concocted a variation using 1" square softwood. Also going to fit 2" wheels as the 1.5" version will struggle on our patch.


I never initially received the plans from Sarik so I called them a week after ordering online. A despatch email duly came through, then a couple of days later two separate envelopes arrived! So if anyone fancies building a CB and wants my second set just PM me your address.

24/06/2019 14:17:14

Fuel tank - The plans specify 6oz and the SLEC version (red) looks fine as it has a 47mm sq cross-section which will fit the 50mm sq cutout in F2.

Servos - Yes, of course 225s would be better for rudder and elevator. Re wing-mounted or central servo(s), I can see good arguments for both. Torque-rods would be cleaner, but if space is tight (esp for RX battery) then wing-wells would free up a bit of wriggle-room in the fuselage.

Wheels - Mike Delacole specifies smallest possible, 1-1/2" diam but whether these will handle our grass patch will have to be seen.

UC - Built-up wing shows hardwood bearers built into the forward rib-structure - each has a long piece of 1/2"x3/4" section with an additional piece to make it deeper at the inboard end where the torque-stub fits in (i.e. a L with a very long foot). Question is whether a similar arrangement can be let into my foam wings - or would they need an additional 'brace' running fore-and-aft for a more secure anchorage in the foam?

24/06/2019 11:01:35

Quite right kc, I glossed over that on first reading (it's one of those days!).

He fitted standards in the prototype but reckoned minis would do fine. I'm inclined towards 85MG servos all round, with separate servo wells in each wing rather than a single central one for ailerons - unless there's a good aerodynamic reason to keep all the weight on the centre-line?

24/06/2019 10:17:56

Thanks chaps.

24/06/2019 09:13:58

Cheers kc, all three parts have come through fine.

Reading the article now makes me wonder now if my intended power-plant, a new OS35AX, might be a tad too powerful for this 48" version (designed for older 25 to 36 engines)?

The Chilli Wind is 57.5" (40 to 50 engines) which is bigger than I'm looking for, so I wonder if enlarging the Breeze plan by say 10% to 53" span would make for a better fit?

The wing will be made for me in foam to root and tip sections, so it would just be a matter of enlarging the formers on the copier and re-drawing the fuselage outlines etc on lining-paper.

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