Here is a list of all the postings Jonathan M has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Electric setup advice|
Will, you might have already sorted the throttle situation, but if you haven't (or if anyone else is a first timer with electric), then read the ESC instructions and set the throttle up exactly according to them, which - as has been noted above - usually means first setting the throttle stick travels to their default 100/100 on the transmitter, then programming the ESC for that range by moving the stick to the limits down and up (read the instructions).
I recently didn't do this properly and got into a mess trying to adjust idle and high-speed using the travels.
|Thread: Acrowot build|
For construction generally I’d use Aliphatic Resin - dries quicker than PVA and is relatively easy to sand.
I’d use Poly-C for the bandage: **LINK**
If you do use epoxy for localised strengthening of components, then make sure the joining areas are well keyed (roughed up) first, and the slower and more liquid the better for maximum penetration. If the epoxy is to fill an area, then thicken it with filler when mixing.
|Thread: One receiver different models|
No. All these things are in the TX's model memory - a standard template for a given RX gets copied to individual model memories, whereafter the settings (servos, rates, expo) can be customised to suit each model. The RX is just a dumb airborne slave which obeys the signal transmitted, without ever being aware of the settings behind them. The only thing that you'll have to do is re-bind the RX each time, and ensure that servo leads always go in the same output sockets (e.g. R-Aile->Aile, L-Aile->Gear, etc) whichever model you're flying.
If I were to go down this route, then I might have two RXs, say a 6-chan for power models, a 4-chan for slope soarers, but things would get complicated if you start having models with retracts, gliders with 4-aileron wings, or other more specialised models.
As the RX is usually a small proportion of the overall cost of a model, at £25 a pop for FrSky receivers each of my models gets its own slave.
|Thread: Acrowot build|
Good points KC.
Re the U/C, perhaps the nylon-bolt solution is only really applicable to the ARTF version, but less so on a more robustly made kit?
On my ARTF, before I switched away from the steel bolts supplied, a bloody great mole hill reared up right in front of a dead-stick landing - ripping off not just the U/C but the whole of the underside section to which it was bolted! In the several later occurrences of rough landings where the nylon sheered (sometimes just one side only), scarring of the tail didn't happen, but would have been a very minor price to pay compared to a nose-area rebuild.
That would be of interest - I lost my own ARTF AW recently and am thinking of a kit version for the engine that survived.
I'd still be inclined to use nylon bolts for the U/C.
|Thread: Hi everyone|
Way to go Will - all three - well done!
Hi Paul, thanks for that!
Yes it was Al's. Spoke to Ali a week ago, sent the TX by post, then Gary (who works Mondays) did the test etc, and it is now back in the post to me. So would say very good service.
TX inspection results now back, which showed one 'hold' of my DX7 during an hour-long test. (Duration of the hold in the workshop test isn't known, but a 'hold' is the most significant of three possible events, the other two being 'frame-loss' and 'fade'.) The RF board has been replaced and the transmitter has tested as now working without fault.
I asked the tech guy whether low ambient temperatures might have increased the likelihood, frequency or duration of a 'hold' or other signal failure event (it was marginally above freezing on both days when I lost models) and he replied that he has known radios to misbehave around or below zero degrees.
I'm therefore concluding that the primary cause of both crashes were due to this fault in the transmitter, possibly exacerbated by very cold weather.
NOTE: This post isn't a cue for any people carrying deep-fried potatoes on their shoulders to start whooping and cackling again online. If it runs to that, then I'm going to ask the mods to lock the thread. Thank you.
|Thread: UK supplier of balsa in METRIC thicknesses?|
All good advice, thx. (I did previously enquire about attitude-reassignment procedures but the NHS is a bit stretched at present and going private would wipe out my lifetime budget for the hobby!) In the meantime...
- Mantua carry all the usual metric thicknesses (in 1000mm lengths I need for each wing) but it'd be a three hour round-trip to go in and select for density.
- SLEC machine all their own balsa and can cut to an emailed materials list - will see what this costs compared to buying stock Imperial sheets etc.
Will be doing a separate build-blog in due course. The model is a Quark 2m slow-aerobatic soarer.
Got the last one: **LINK**
Prototype here: **LINK**
Edited By Jonathan M on 11/02/2019 10:33:14
Thanks guys. I'm happy working with both systems, and the problem only arises in certain cases such as this one.
In my day-job I sometimes work with hardwood to plans which are always done in Metric. So if I need an oak component to be exactly 25mm thick, then I buy 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" rough-sawn, which is almost always about 1/8" thicker (whether by law or by custom I'm not sure?) than its nominal size - and the board will always be to varying degrees bowed, cupped and in wind (twisted). Then I machine the board down, usually in two stages: the first after roughing out the component oversize to allow it 'stretch' and settle for a few days after being released from its long captivity inside a dried longitudinal slice of tree, then to final thickness plus a smidgeon to allow for hand-planing, scraping and sanding.
But in the case of this short-kit (from a French designer based Ireland as it happens, with international carriage and a lousy exchange rate) which has laser-cut ply and balsa components notched out for exact thicknesses (e.g. wing-spars, inner leading edges, etc), I have no suitable kit to machine balsa - the 3-phase thicknesser would make mincemeat out of a soft and floppy sheet! The choice then is either to find a supplier of exact metric thicknesses in the densities I'd prefer, or buy Imperial in the next size up (from Balsa Cabin or SLEC who both enable choice of density), then thin down components by hand or using a router-jig. But this would be tedious and inefficient, and would begin to make my hobby resemble my day-job! Or just bodge it... which would probably suffice but would annoy me!
Need to order a complete supply of sheet and strip balsa for my first short kit, a 2m slope-soarer, which has been designed and laser-cut in exact Metric. Some stuff can be the usual Imperial equivalent (e.g. wing sheeting can be 1/16" rather than the exact 1.5, etc) but some needs to be spot on to match laser-cut parts (e.g. 2mm, 5mm, 10mm).
Is there a UK supplier that does the Full French - including the ability to choose light/medium/hard densities?
|Thread: Gangster 75 Build Blog|
Cheers for that Peter - good to know as I'm got sets of Futaba 3003 and 3001 servos in each of the two models I've bought 2s LiFe packs for.
Looks great! Wishing you fair weather for the maiden
If you discover that you really need more than 1" clearance (heavy landings?) then you could always fit bigger wheels or a taller U/C, or else simply rotate the pipe 45° to point in the correct direction for equivalent down- and side-thrust when opening up full revs.
I can now see why you needed the extension lead for the LiFe balancing-plug. By the way, are you using high-voltage servos or a BEC to step down the voltage for normal ones, or not bothered by this?
|Thread: How can I reverse a plan to build two wing halves|
The mess-free method...
During daylight, tape to a large window and trace in pencil onto the back.
Use a 0.5mm propelling-pencil to mark accurately the outlines and at the junctions of each component, then you can use a normal pencil to roughly sketch in the rest so it all makes quick visual sense.
|Thread: Which was the best decade for the hobby?|
The answer - for me - has to be the present, or if you like the current decade.
I have a fabulous choice of stick and tissue FF plans from pre-War to the present which I can download and build from balsa ordered online (and a far greater range of other materials and equipment that a single model shop could ever carry), I can put together a 2-stroke classic pattern ship from a modern laser-cut kit, or stay old-school and build a trad Chris Foss aerobatic for 4-stroke or a similar era slope-soarer, or very quickly assemble an ARTF and bung in my own RX, plus I can benefit from very high-tech materials and extraordinary electronics and TX programming by way of a current DLG design or moulded slope-soarer.
On top of all this, there are superb resources and knowledge-bases online, enabling learning and communication that simply didn't exist when I was converting a Keil Kraft SE5A (from Henry J Nicholls on the Holloway Road) to Telco CO2... surprised it actually flew!
Edited By Jonathan M on 07/02/2019 19:33:20
|Thread: Doubler mistake|
Will it convert to control-line..?
|Thread: Gangster 75 Build Blog|
That makes perfect sense Peter - where there's a quickly removable hatch or normally take wings off a bigger model. I suppose I was trying to visualise a solution for a smaller model (like my 60" Middle Phase) where I don't usually have to unscrew the wing bolts to transport or charge. Necessity (howsoever self-inflicted!) being the mum of invention, this now prompts the devising of a wee sliding hatch beside the main switch/port for the for the balance-lead extension.
Look forward to full HD footage of your big Gangster in the air!
Excellent transferrable-dodge Peter! I'm just now moving over from NiMh to LiFe and was wondering how folks solved that one. Is the balancing end of the extension lead fixed in place rigidly and exposed to the elements, or does it snug away when not in use? Picture?
|Thread: RM Aerobat|
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