Member postings for Stephen Smith 14

Wouldn't want to go near your engines thanks, and you you can't right

Lots of no win no fee solicitors out there, in fact most solicitors that do personal injury offer this. Most take out an insurance policy to cover them if they should loss, but won't take it on unless there's a strong chance of a win.

If you win they take there fee and costs from your award up to a max of 25% if they loss providing you haven't made a fraudulent claim and have acted on there advise you pay nothing, you can instruct them out of your own pocket but final cost will be similar but if you loss it's your bill.

Just Google no win no fee solicitor Doncaster

Just been looking at ys engine bearing and the only site I can find that stock ys parts and show pictures is Amain hobbies and the pictures certainly aren't angular bearings

I've used easy composites but only in small amount so never been hit with extra charges.

How do you recycle epoxy to sell in poundland or anywhere else for that matter

Not sure why you would think angular contact bearings would be better for a rear bearing as it's the front bearing that takes the axial load

Same seller has trex feathering shaft for sale in original packaging comes with 2 in packet for only £20 same packet with 2 in from midland heli £5.25. Midland obviously need to look at there pricing or sell them secondhand on ebay

https://www.google.com/search?q=great+mate+model+stand&client=tablet-android-huawei-rev1&prmd=sinv&sxsrf=ALeKk024YOq8xOHDgqN26vg9Uu3JHHGlHQ:1589577490578&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiewqzN5bbpAhUjrXEKHfpJDqgQ_AUoAnoECAsQAg&biw=960&bih=600&dpr=2#imgrc=xvBcn6xnZshRwM

I use one of these great £70 secondhand purchase

240g the diffrence from 35

Edited By Stephen Smith 14 on 12/05/2020 21:20:24

It's a twin so heavier than a single but not sure why you think more cylinders equates to less power per cc, roughly same power to weight ratio as a dle 35 but so much sweeter.

If your club has noise limits the dle 40 is very noisy, we have no limits but I have put perper pots in the exhaust and propped it up and it still howls, but it's a sweet engine and pulls the acro wot xl round the sky well, I'm sure it climbs vertically nearly as fast as it dives.

Agreed that bikes are dearer than cars to run. 4-5000 miles from a rear tyre you obviously don't push very hard, last road bike I had lucky to get a 1000 and about double that out of a front and chain and sprocket, had an RGV about 1995 and only got about 2000 miles from a tyre on that and it's not exactly the most powerful thing

A good low Ash 2 stroke is Millers KR2T

Also modern castrol r is only suitable as a 4 stroke oil if your looking for a modern castor 2 stroke oil take a look at castrol 747

Back in the 70s castrol r was a mineral based oil with castor adatives if you looking at modern castrol r you will see its an entirely different oil. This info came to us via a sponser that was and still is a major oil blending company so I'm sure they know whats what.

Was going to make an offer for this but £20 postage means I could only make an offer of minus £18.

I would never use mineral oil things have moved on. Back in the dim and distant past (late 70s early 80s) I was involved with racing tz250s and 350s which we ran with mineral oils manly castrol R.

Move forward many years and my son followed my lead and went racing, now I know how my perant felt. He raced post classics for 3 years of his racing career this was on a tz350, this was capable of higher reves than the original bikes due to advances in ignition, expansion chambers, porting and combustion chamber. We ran purely synthetic oils in much smaller amounts as little as 50-1 as apposed to 20-1we ran when using minaral but at least doubled ring piston liner and crank life, admitted we ran nicasiled bores as apposed to early hard chrome but the increased life was about the same on all components.

Some of what you say is incorrect blue antifreeze losses its ability to prevent corrosion quickly this is why it's changed every 2 years it will quickly start to degrade aluminium, red antifreeze corrodes iron and steel, modern cast iron engine blocks are coated internally, but red won't attack aluminium, it also has a longer service life of 5 years.

I'm not a plumber but do understand what automotive antifreeze does what and when it should be used 5 years seems a little risky to leave it in for and as central heating specific antifreeze is available I would always recommend using that instead of one not specific to requirements

Or me, in mine there all a controlled burn.

Just don't understand these diode lasers when they take 10 passes to cut 1/32 ply and are only really usfull for drawing out onto wood to cut with a knife or saw, my k40 cuts 1/8th ply without issue and with £100 back of the seller because of two minor issues it cost me under £200.

I will continue to buy from China if necessary for the item I want, I use Czechoslovakian radio currently building a British kit, have two British kits in the loft and three American kits (by kits I mean kits not artf) I have some hitec servos not sure where there made but don't think it's Chinese, have os and Irvine engines.

On the other hand I have Chinese foamys and balsa artfs, piles of Chinese servos, motors, escs, engines and verious other stuff from them, not only modeling.

Please also remember they do a great line in wild bat meat, yummy.