Member postings for Stephen Smith 14

A good low Ash 2 stroke is Millers KR2T

Also modern castrol r is only suitable as a 4 stroke oil if your looking for a modern castor 2 stroke oil take a look at castrol 747

Back in the 70s castrol r was a mineral based oil with castor adatives if you looking at modern castrol r you will see its an entirely different oil. This info came to us via a sponser that was and still is a major oil blending company so I'm sure they know whats what.

Was going to make an offer for this but £20 postage means I could only make an offer of minus £18.

I would never use mineral oil things have moved on. Back in the dim and distant past (late 70s early 80s) I was involved with racing tz250s and 350s which we ran with mineral oils manly castrol R.

Move forward many years and my son followed my lead and went racing, now I know how my perant felt. He raced post classics for 3 years of his racing career this was on a tz350, this was capable of higher reves than the original bikes due to advances in ignition, expansion chambers, porting and combustion chamber. We ran purely synthetic oils in much smaller amounts as little as 50-1 as apposed to 20-1we ran when using minaral but at least doubled ring piston liner and crank life, admitted we ran nicasiled bores as apposed to early hard chrome but the increased life was about the same on all components.

Some of what you say is incorrect blue antifreeze losses its ability to prevent corrosion quickly this is why it's changed every 2 years it will quickly start to degrade aluminium, red antifreeze corrodes iron and steel, modern cast iron engine blocks are coated internally, but red won't attack aluminium, it also has a longer service life of 5 years.

I'm not a plumber but do understand what automotive antifreeze does what and when it should be used 5 years seems a little risky to leave it in for and as central heating specific antifreeze is available I would always recommend using that instead of one not specific to requirements

Or me, in mine there all a controlled burn.

Just don't understand these diode lasers when they take 10 passes to cut 1/32 ply and are only really usfull for drawing out onto wood to cut with a knife or saw, my k40 cuts 1/8th ply without issue and with £100 back of the seller because of two minor issues it cost me under £200.

I will continue to buy from China if necessary for the item I want, I use Czechoslovakian radio currently building a British kit, have two British kits in the loft and three American kits (by kits I mean kits not artf) I have some hitec servos not sure where there made but don't think it's Chinese, have os and Irvine engines.

On the other hand I have Chinese foamys and balsa artfs, piles of Chinese servos, motors, escs, engines and verious other stuff from them, not only modeling.

Please also remember they do a great line in wild bat meat, yummy.

Quality radio gear obviously helps

Loads on facebook

They could ban all transmitters to be sure and just fly free flight

Thanks Barrie will see if I can get there head once the world returns to some normallity but they don't list any parts on there Web site.

I see they supply the same poor exhaust fan, I found one on thingyverse which uses the same motor with a different housing printed in several parts, seals much better on the back of the machine and the difference in performance is night and day.

Barrie thats a really nice head on your K40 what make is it and where did you get it from would like one on mine.

8 minutes to work instead of 45

Also busy printing face mask frames in between working

The words educate and pork spring to mind

Rather you than me Jon trying to explain this, simple concept but it looks to me like your banging your head on a brick wall. What's so difficult to understand?

Have you tried corona servos

A previous scare multipled by the media

https://www.theguardian.com/world/2008/jul/21/pandemic.warning