Here is a list of all the postings Paul james 8 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: DB Major Mannock|
Sorry I haven't responded, not got round to sorting mine yet, got so many models now I'm not sure which to get in the air first!! Will be interesting to see what you put on yours!!
|Thread: Acrowot with laser 80|
That is a bit of a surprise as my old one, with a Saito 82 up front has a big slab of lead on the firewall. Balances perfectly and flys well for an old un. I've got a Kyosho spitfire to sort out first then maybe on to the new Acrowot.
Great news! Makes me want to get on with my new one
That is a pretty tight bend in the flexi tube right up near the head, would it not have been possible to fit a rigid bend at that point then flexible from there? Got to start on mine soon so will be interested to hear how you get on with yours before deciding on exhaust fitting.
Edited By Paul james 8 on 18/03/2019 06:30:39
|Thread: Laser Engines - Technical questions|
Makes perfect sense to prioritise your workload, easy for folks to lose sight of how many bits and pieces are involved when making a range of products like yours
I'm not looking to make parts on a commercial basis, just happy to help people out where I can for non standard or hard to get parts.
There are various ways of doing the sleeve nuts, the simplest is with a sleeve that goes back inside the prop, for these a washer with an oversized bore to suit is required. The other one I make up as required has both the sleeve to go into the prop and a protrusion at the opposite end of the nut with a thread to take a spinner centre bolt.
When making these for my own use I obviously have the engine and prop I'm going to use so can measure up from that to make the required parts. i don't have all the data for all the engines so if anyone wanted one or two I'd need info from them.
Typically for an engine with a crankshaft thread of 8mm or 5/16" UNF I make the outside of the sleeve 10mm diameter, with a 10mm thread the outside is 12mm diameter. Lengths of sleeve need to be considered so that with any given prop hub thickness the thread in the nut sleeve doesn't bottom out on the step on the crankshaft.
I don't want to tread on the toes of the guys at Laser and it is unlikely that in batches of 1 or 2 I could meet their very reasonable price of £8.50 for nut and washer. Not sure if they do one with a front extension for a spinner screw?? It is pretty basic machining work but I can understand if the guys at Laser are pushed for time to get some made.
I'm making up some of the sleeved nuts shortly, need one to fit my 200 with aluminium spinner.
|Thread: Acrowot with laser 80|
I'm about to start putting a new ARTF Acrowot together and I have a tidy rebuilt Laser 75 that I'm thinking about fitting. I have a scruffy old Acrowot with a Saito 82 up front but that has a great lump of lead as well to balance it so I guess the 75 will be fine?
|Thread: Laser Engines - Technical questions|
Interesting stuff Jon, good to get feedback from someone who has tried these mods. I modified an Irvine carb to fit one of my Lasers as I have the facilities to easily do so here. I found it was at least as good as the old Super Tigre style carb and a tad simpler to set up.
Interesting idea Bruce, can't see why it wouldn't work, probably best not to have too abrupt a bend leading into the inlet port as it may cause turbulence but might not make much difference. Most other 4 strokes seem to have the carb much "lower" with an inlet stub having quite a sharp bend where it meets the head.
I've made up different exhausts to fit them and inlet stubs with different carburetors, all of which have worked fine.
It seems to be the height of the carburetor centreline relative to the fuel tank that is important on these and how they are as standard isn't always the easiest to accommodate in a model. That is an observation rather than a criticism.
Let us know how you get on
Edited By Paul james 8 on 18/02/2019 11:36:34
If you can find a pin punch that is the right size to fit the head of the screw, give it a sharp tap with a light hammer and it will very often allow you to unscrew a screw that has this problem. If it is still difficult you might try an "easy out". I've got a good selection of those if you get stuck.
As it would appear that this might have been aimed at my comment relating to manufacturing engines I'll just respond to that.
I've been in the engineering business for a good while now having been involved in design, development and production. I've done quite well from being deluded along the way and have learned that actually making all the parts of ones own product isn't always the way to optimise production and profitability. The thing to be tightly in control of is the design of the product, ensuring that the specifications of each part means that they can be made by anyone with the appropriate equipment. Risking massive investment in owning the manufacturing equipment is not always the way forward on relatively low production rate products. Buying in machined parts and assembling them to arrive at the end product works well for my range of precision gas flow measuring equipment, the same concept could easily be applied to an engine, which is a relatively straightforward engineering product.
I won't bore you with any more of my thoughts as it isn't really truly on topic, merely relevant to your post.
Having followed this recently I feel that I should confess to owning some engines that aren't in models. I have more than one motorcycle as well
It is interesting to hear that an in demand product such as the Laser V engines are out of production at the moment. Is it because they have technical issues or is there some sort of commercial reason I wonder? I demand is not met by supply the problem is that alternatives will be used by potential customers. (Not a dig at you Jon)
As an engineer myself I have to wonder if it might be a good time to consider manufacturing an alternative multi cylinder British made engine. Not all are looking to fly with electric power; I don't find it very enjoyable personally but that could partly be an age thing
|Thread: 2.4gHz newbie :(|
I've seen these but never used them (as the need has not previously arisen) but have seen some comments suggesting they can be problematic. It is an option I will bear in mind for the future.
All understood but in this case it isn't quite that straightforward as I tried to explain above. I can't readily use a "Y" lead on the flaps due to on of the servos needing to be revered so the option is to use a servo reverser as mentioned by Nigel or to allocate two channels to the flaps to get one reversed.
As I can "Y" lead the ailerons without any trouble that is all feasible with the 6 channel rx.
Given it some thought and think I will put both ailerons into the aileron channel using a "Y" lead than use the gear and aux1 for the flaps. I can get the up/down aileron differential by biasing the servo arms a little forward when the ailerons are level.
In certain circumstances yes indeed, not unfortunately in the one I'm faced with here. I need matching servo travels from a "Y" lead or, I'm coming to think, a 7 channel receiver so I can have 4 channels dedicated to the flaps and ailerons.
Tried taking a 3003 apart but the motor and pot are soldered into the pcb
Any particular shade of blue??
Don't really want to proiritise flap control over ailerons by giving each flap servo a separate channel so will tinker with a flap servo and see about altering the internal configuration.
Although we get around the direction of servo travel by using separate channels these days it would still be useful to be able to buy "handed" servos for jobs like this.
Thanks for the warning about dodgy receivers, I will be careful what I get.
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