Here is a list of all the postings Tony Kenny has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Christmas Caption Competition!|
Resistance is futile!
|Thread: Lipo storage, slight swell|
After reading a note in RCME this month this reminded me that my larger 4S lipos have got a slight bulge and I've been fully charging all my batteries after each use. Often then not using them for many weeks. I hear this is bad.
I'm planning on investing in a charger that has a 'storage charge' facility and a discharge facility. I'll also go for a dual-charger so if I can go flying last-minute, I have a cat-in-hells chance of having time to charge them. DC capabilities will also be useful for charging at the field from the car or a leisure battery. (Don't worry, my car has a 7kW LiPo itself and the engine is more 'generator' than engine so I don't expect a flat). Should I look for anything else?
My favourite at the minute is this: **LINK**
For these slightly bulging batteries, would I be OK just discharging them to a storage level and letting time tell if the bulge gets worse? The alternative is to shell out another £120 on replacing them!
|Thread: Servo chatter & buzz - HK Raven 990 DLG|
Things are going much better now, thank you!
I gave the ailerons a good few bends and also moved the push rods to the bottom hole on the servo arm. There's very little chatter now when in a neutral position and I also got a better range of movement with more granular control. All set up now, waiting for the right combination of weather/work/family to get out and try it!
For the DLG side, I've got a slight up elevator and down flaperon for launch, then into all neutral for the climb. I've got flaperon set up for brakes which I'll also experiment with using a tiny bit for thermal mode. Not expecting many thermals just yet, but hope to get to the hillside soon!.
There's no ESC in circuit here, I'm using a Tactic Rx Tr 624 micro rx and a single cell 450mAh Lipo which is in the correct voltage range for both the Rx and the servos. HK recommend a single cell LiPo for this model.
@Ron, the control horn connectors below. One disconnected at present.
Thanks guys, I'll try some of these things a bit later (busy day with work, and working from home with the model next to me is torture!)
The elevator is 'spring return' and it's quite strong. The's some soft of transparent "tape" as the hinge which pulls the elevator back to a down position, the servo then pulls it up with string and releases. The installed servo couldn't pull it and when I disconnected it, the servo was still not moving as I'd expect, sometimes not at all. That servo is out and will stay out.
Control horn connectors are, sorry not sure what they're called, I'm in software so the 'real world' is a bit unfamiliar. They look like a hex/cylinder with a hole for the pushrod and a screw to keep it in.
Just disconnected one quickly, you're right, the aileron is a lot stiffer than anything else I've had, I'll flex them a bit and see if I can free them up before making any other changes.
Ron, thank you! I just assumed the hole they put it in was going to be the right one, expecting the manufacturer to know best. There's only one hole in the control horn, but 3 in the arm, but, won't the servo then experience greater strain with the effectively shorter arm? I also don't think they will have enough movement on them, but I'll try.
I'm still also concerned that the servos try to pull themselves away from the glued surface when moving, suggesting that the glue is insufficient or the servos are experiencing excess load?
Maybe I just need to bite the bullet, remove the hot glue, centre the arms correctly so they are equal and give the right throws without having to set sub-trim and seat them more securely, rather than lose one in flight and lose my new toy! If I have to do that, will be a bit of a disappointment having spent so much on an ARTF. I'm now a bit wary of the HK brand for the future.
I hadn't thought of that, but, they were different on each aileron and the manufacturer recommends equal deflection of 10mm up/down on each. The position they were in also meant that the arm hit the air frame before the control surface had reached max deflection.
But, saying all these things, some light chucks in the back garden and it seems to fly straight and true, even with the wind swirling around from the house and fences. Shame I'm working this week and can't get out before it gets dark especially with the park covered in soft snow in case of any mishaps!
Thanks for all the replies and suggestions.
The Tx I use with almost a dozen other models and I don't get this problem with any of them, but, that might be beside the point, maybe?
Why do I think it's an issue? Two things, 1st that the servos are getting hot even to the other side of the wing and 2nd, that tells me that they are drawing current and draining the battery. Combining that with the servos appearing to wiggle lose from their glue, this gives me cause for concern that I may lose the model in flight either due to a failure or loss of power.
This is what I've done to try and resolve the issue.
I've noted that with full deflection of the sticks, the control surface reached full deflection a long time before the stick. Therefore, I've adjusted the max range on the Tx so that max stick movement only gives the manufacturer's recommended control movement. With a small exception being for the flaperons which I've allowed to go as far as the control surface is capable of moving. (That's attached to the throttle stick)
With that set up, I noticed much more fine grained control of the ailerons, but still with the chattering.
If I tap the control surface or even give the stick a little nudge, the chattering often stops, does that tell us anything useful?
Thank you again! Gotta love this forum! Looking forward to DLG flying, the endless hours without running out of power (plenty of 1S Lipos to hand) - and the massive right arm I'm going to get (although I'm already 'inventing' a long stick with remote release to get better launches!)
My lovely wife bought me a HobbyKing Raven 990 discuss launch glider and I've spent most of the day setting it up. To be fair to HK, I did have to solder new connectors on the servos to cope with my micro rx, but even after that, setup was a bit of a pig.
The aileron servos constantly chatter and buzz when in use and get hot. A little wiggle on the controls or a tap on the ailerons sometimes stops it. But, if I disconnect the control rod completely then I don't get any noise at all. I don't get this from the new servo I put in on the elevator (see below), so I'm wondering if the HK servos are just cheap and nasty and likely to kill the battery, or the model. Or am I missing something?
If it's of interest, the other problems I had with the setup:
1. The elevator servo was too weak to pull the elevator so I've had to install my own and I had to cut the fuz to fit one I had.
2. The control rods for the ailerons were twisting the servo arm so I had to switch the rods to the other side of the arm.
3. The arms do not appear to be in a central point on the servos, I'd had to use different amounts of offset on each to get them somewhere near.
4. The hot glue holding the servos in place doesn't seem to be doing so well, the servos are trying to push their way out in normal use (with deflections set to recommended amounts)
4. Was very difficult to get the ailerons to move equal amounts (probably due to the servo arm positions)
Still, looking forward to enjoying some great flights, even if I do have to replace the servos with ones that will last. Some short chucks in the back garden suggest that it's flying straight, so not all bad
|Thread: Flaperons, air brakerons?|
My crow braking / spoilers / flaps are on switches rather than sliders as my radio doesn't have sliders other than the sticks. Maybe I can set up a switch to flip the throttle stick from throttle to braking? I did also consider a 'half way point' where over half way would be throttle, then backwards from there for a crow braking. But, my club instructor advised "one control one function" to avoid confusion during flight. My glider setup works for me at the minute and I only tend to use spoilers when I absolutely have to, relying more on the crow.
Has anybody tried RF8 yet? Is it much different to RF7.5 and worth an upgrade?
Anybody tried the VR features yet, does it help much to gain any realism?
|Thread: Flaperons, air brakerons?|
I've read a couple of threads re flaperons and air brakes and already have 3 options set up on my glider which I use as needed, although my air brake setting tends to kill lift so much and I end up belly flopping pretty damn hard!
Anyway, that aside, I'm turning my attention now to my Dynam Smart, which more senior club members have described as "floaty". If I get my base leg and approach long enough, I can now get my landings to within about 5 meters of where I'm aiming. Not bad considering I'm just about ready for my A-cert.
But, I want more! It can still take me a few attempts to get down when I realise I'm simply too high & fast and call a go around.
Flaperons don't sound like a great option given the high chance of a wingtip stall and the reduced control authority at lower speeds, I don't fancy bending my pride and joy. So, I'm wondering about putting a few degrees of UP aileron and UP elevator together in order to increase drag and kill a bit of lift.
I'll try this on the sim first to get a feel for how a plane might react and how controls might be effected.
In the meantime, has anybody done this on a Dynam Smart or similar mode?Does it sound like a reasonable approach? (pardon the pun) Is it reasonable to use controls in this way or is this just 'cheating' and I should just nail my approaches properly i the first place?
As usual, any advice gratefully appreciated!
|Thread: Build a model from twisted wire?|
It's non -alcoholic Question still stands though, why can't light weight twisted metal be used to create an airframe?
|Thread: Eric "Winkle" Brown|
Fantastic documentary, makes me wonder why I've not heard of him before.
|Thread: Build a model from twisted wire?|
I just popped the cork on a bottle of drink and realised just how strong the twisted wires are together. That got me thinking, could a model be made from a framework of twisted wires then covered in a material?
I suspect if it was possible then it would already have been done, so, if it's not possible, why not? Would it prove to just be too flexible and need too many supports?
|Thread: 2 x Lipos in series|
Thank you, I made this up in a few minutes this evening. Creates quite a spark when it connects which took me by surprise, but in hindsight, I should have fully expected that.
I'm using identical pairs of 3S 2200mAh, same manufacturer so they're as close as they're going to get. Put them on my Dynam Smart with a power meter giving a whopping 900W of power with only about 36A. With a flying weight of about 1.8kg, it's not going to need a lot of throttle when I'm using these packs. By the way, the reason for this exercise isn't the power, it's just so I have more packs on a day flying instead of buying more 4S (yes the ESC/model can take 6S).
I'd like to make up a 6S from 2 3S batteries, but still have the 3S individually to use in other models. It's been 25years + since I studied, so are Lipos just going to be the same as any other bettery and I can just connect 2 in series with a custom cable and they'll be fine, or are lipos something a bit more sensitive?
|Thread: Autumn here...who's been flying ?|
Tomorrow (wednesday) and the BMFA national centre for the intro to aerobatics workshop!
Weather is looking good, if a little breezy, so looking forward to it!
|Thread: Servo flutter, is it terminal?|
Might be unrelated, but I had a similar issue recently and also my servo wasn't responding to commands properly, Then I accidentally tapped the wing and it moved. Turns out my extension cable was loose. Pushed it back in an secured it with heatshrink to avoid it again.
Why heatshrink? So when I take it off, the cables aren't sticky from tape!
|Thread: Phoenix 2000 thermaling|
Thank you all for the advice.
I'll probably replace the wings and will certainly experiment with different flap set ups to see what works. Also, I'm I'm intending to thermal, maybe I'll fly on a 1300 instead of a 2200mAh, I'll get less time on throttle of course, but will benefit from lower weight.
Re the cables, I'll probably do that anyway, but more for convenience when connecting the wings rather than anything else.
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