Here is a list of all the postings Ron Gray has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Which Set Should I buy|
I think if you re-read Peter’s post you will see that he refers to that document to show what is meant by aerials at 90 degrees. So just configure your aerials in the same way and you’ll be fine.
|Thread: Airco DH2 - Microaces|
And now the birdcage, made from printed sheet plastic reinforced with carbon which are then hidden with stickers
|Thread: Forum members' new models: Let's see them.|
Fortunately I mostly fly off a tarmac strip but could obviously fit larger wheels for grass, the ones fitted are 4 ½” diameter.
Bought this a couple of weeks ago, amazing bit of foam engineering by FMS, the build quality and finish are superb and the way it just clips together is very clever. Whilst a 5000 6s is the recommended battery, I fly it on a 4000 6s to reduce the overall weight. It flies really well and as you would expect is quite aerobatic. Hand launches are possible but much easier if someone else does it hence why I built a launch dolly with retracting LE clamps, retracting TE ramps and a steerable tail wheel. The dolly has its own Rx but is on the same ID as the Fox so is controllable from the Fox settings on the Tx but I did have to use the SBus so that I could give the dolly clamp servos different IDs (channel 10 and 11).
Edited By Ron Gray on 16/02/2019 18:20:13
Edited By Ron Gray on 16/02/2019 18:23:01
|Thread: Airco DH2 - Microaces|
So onto a bit of wing building. Quite straightforward but the ribs are very fiddly as you have to apply stickers to them before sticking to the wing
And finally, attached to the fuse and sitting on its purpose made stand to dry!
If you’ve built a Microaces one before then this one is more of the same, megga fiddly. One of the most useful tools to help build is a decent pair of tweezers and extensive use of UHU Por, wiped onto the surfaces with a bit of spare Depron.
Anyway, the build continues with more work to the fuse, adding the motor to its ply mount and servos stuck to the crutch with UHU.
A really fiddly bit now, the linkage and mounting plate for the control arms
The cabana struts are a combination of printed plastic, carbon flat and a sticker to cover up the carbon
These are stuck to the fuse skin which has been scored to assist in forming the curve.
The fuse skin is then stuck to the crutch, note the servo control linkage plate mounted to the underside of the crutch.
And the fuse bottom remembering bevel the edges to ensure a good fit to the fuse sides
About a year ago I built a Microaces Brisfit and recorded the build on here. Since then I’ve flown it a few times and must say that it really does fly well and looks the business. Microaces then brought out a DH2 and I decided to build it as it’s an airframe that’s just got something about it, mainly the birdcage fuse. So here is a bit of a build blog but I must get a move on as I want to have it ready for flying this coming Sunday!
Like the Brisfit the build starts with a crutch assembly made from a combination of foam and plastic strengthening pieces
Where strength is required, formers are a sandwich of 3 foam layers plus plastic
|Thread: One receiver different models|
This would only be the case if you used the same Rx number on each. I use this feature to specifically control 2 different RXs, one on my powered glider and one for the controls on the launch dolley so that rudder on the glider also operates the dolley steering and another channel operates the launch restraints. The launch dolley is another model on the Tx.
|Thread: Gangster 75 Build Blog|
@JM - you obviously haven’t seen Peter fly, he doesn’t do heavy landings!
|Thread: Fresh petrol in a lawnmower every season?|
Slightly off topic but raised by MikeE above - Aspen in our gassers - wait for Jon to bounce back on this as I know he favours it if only because it doesn't smell like petrol does!
I’ve never bothered about the age of petrol I use in my petrol mowers, however draining the fuel at the end of the season and using additives such as Sta-Bil helps matters.
|Thread: Zap Odourless Super Glue|
A tip if using kicker, apply it to one surface of the joint and the ca to the other then bring them together.
I think that the 5645s are in the top sector of high current draw ones, other makes offering same torque seem to be better (and I am an avid Hitec user!).
5645 are notorious for high current draw, I do use them but am wary about 'over use' in any one 'plane having had this pointed out to me!
I suggest not worrying too much about various settings until you fly it. Get the C of G roughly as the instructions then fly it as that is the only real way of knowing if it is correct. Similarly engine thrust, mine hasn’t got any different from that built in but fly it and see and then make changes accordingly. The problem I had which was why I adjusted the incidence, was that despite the C of G being correct it would drop its nose when flying level, irrespective of engine power, that is why I did the power off vertical dive. I tried changing the wing incidence but found I needed less adjusting if I did it to the tail.
There are still some tweaks I will be making but for 90% of the time it is now how I want it. I’m also going to see what it’s like with a 6s and smaller prop, the one on their at the moment is a 16x6.
Just a couple of things about my Wotty. I too am using New Power servos but only for the rudder and elevators, I've got Hitecs on the ailerons. Having said that, I've not had any problems with the New Power ones and their speed seems to be ok. The C of G is about 98mm back from the LE (instructions say 82mm). I checked the C of G using various flying methods and with it in this position it only needs slight stick pressure for inverted flight. However I have adjusted the tailplane incidence, raising the TE by about 3mm and in vertical, power off dives there is now no pulling to canopy or U/C so spot on. All this has meant that it does all aeros quite nicely including rudder / elevator spins in fact if you feed in a bit of ailerons the spins are manic! Anyway here are some pics to show where the battery is located (5s 3000) and the raised elevator TE.
No matter what failsafe settings you have in place if it was a power failure then they wouldn’t have taken effect. I know that to my cost on my GP Revolver mentioned before.
Whilst I am a FrSky advocate I wouldn’t suggest getting rid of Spektrum just because of this event. However, if you only have 2 or 3 models on the Spektrum then consolidating on one system does make sense, the cash you get for the Spektrum would pay for the FrSky RXs.
|Thread: Gangster 75 Build Blog|
Lower cowl piece, don’t bother re-shaping as you won’t see it when the right way up. If you must do something with it, cur a slot in it, aka chin intake. For more pipe clearance, fit bigger wheels, they’ll be too small for excursions off our runway anyway! 😉
Edited By Ron Gray on 29/01/2019 07:49:54
|Thread: TN Hurricane|
Yes they will be angled (toe in) when down. If you look on the Mick Reeves ‘site you will see that he has a cunning way to get round this problem.
|Thread: EBay Ads by Forum Members|
Me too! But from what you’ve posted above plus what was highlighted about saying PayPal gift payments, it doesn’t surprise me.
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