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Member postings for Steve Dunne

Here is a list of all the postings Steve Dunne has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Laser Engines - Technical questions
16/01/2020 16:21:09

For what it's worth...

1 I don't think that the fuel head problem would be resolved at all - the syphoning and leaking issues will remain.
You still need to have the feed tank on the same level as the carburetter.

2 I don't think that carburetter suction will provide enough suction power to raise fuel from the lower tank. The carb usually provides only air suction against against a neutral head - i.e. the tank is on the same level.
On my own chicken hopper installation (which works very well on my Spitfire) I cannot empty the lower tank by using the electric pump to suck out fuel via the upper tank. I have to invert the Spitfire to drain the bottom tank via the spill tube..

3 There is nothing to balance the suction fuel head in the two tanks.

I'm sorry to be the gainsayer, but I think your configuration, though ingenious, will not help you at all.

Steve.

Thread: Precedent Stampe 1/4 Scale
15/01/2020 12:35:15

Here is my current idea on the rigging spreader bars.

The bar itself is an offcut of 1.5mm or 2mm carbon rod, from indoor model bracings.
The holder is a 2mm slice from silicon fuel tubing, placed on the bar, stretched under the crosspoint then passed over the end of the rod again.
It is very easy to fit, allows the bracing wires to find their own position, and looks ok from more than a couple of feet away.
Works great in the workshop, not yet tried in flight...surprise


The third pic is of the IP strut ends.
Everything is still work in progress wink.

Steve.

stampe rigging 2.jpg

stampe rigging 3.jpg

stampe rigging 1.jpg

Thread: Aeromaster
28/11/2019 16:30:45

Hi Nigel,

I built my Aeromaster from an imported kit in 1981. It was refurbished in 2009 as it was getting very tatty, and then in 2016 the Webra Speed 61 was replaced by a Saito 82FS when I joined a club that was 4-stroke only. It flies better on the Saito than it did on the Webra!

It is still flying well, and very aerobatic. The original design may seem fiddly, but it is a superb design and I recommend following it if you can. Mine has survived a mid-air, two crashes and several bad landings - largely due to the excellent design - not difficult to repair.

These photos are from a few years ago when it had the Webra with a Quiet-pipe.

Steve.

aeromaster.jpg

a13.jpg

a14.jpg

Thread: Laser Engines - Technical questions
21/11/2019 12:00:03

I'd definitely go for glow, petrol is not an acceptable option to SWMBO.

Lack of larger glow engines and the size of the trapdoor into my loft workshop are the two factors that have limited me to around 80" warbirds and other models.

Steve.

Thread: Precedent Stampe 1/4 Scale
18/10/2019 16:16:58

Sarik Hobbies do wheels for the DH82a, which seem to be a spot-on match at 4¾"

The hubs can be sanded to remove the DH logo...

About £25.

03/09/2019 15:15:50

Jon is right, as usual, but it doesn't tell the whole story.
Stalling the top wing first is best for stability, but makes it difficult to perform aerobatic maneouvres that require a stall, e.g. stall turns, flicks, spins. If your biplane needs to be aerobatic, have the top wing a degree or so negative to the bottom, but be careful on landings! Zero-zero decalage is a good compromise between the two.

In my case, my 25-year-old 1/5th scale Svenson Stampe has the top wing 1* positive, the 38 year old Aeromaster has the top wing 1* negative, and the more recent Jungmeister and Christen Eagle are both zero-zero.

All of them are excellent flyers in their own ways - the Stampe is a lovable, stable trundler, and the Aeromaster is a very wick and lively aerobat!

Work out how you want the aircraft to behave, and then set the decalage accordingly.

Steve.

Thread: Incidence Meter/Gauge Measurement
03/09/2019 15:04:54

I made this incidence guage some 30+ years ago out of scrap bits, when building a 1/4 scale Fokker DVII. It has been used regularly since then, both by me and by the several friends who borrow it from time to time.
No technology, just a dangling pointer!
The rubber band keeps the system in tension during measurement.
The slots in the top part are to slide over prop shafts to get the down-thrust.
Simples laugh.

Steve.

 

incidence guage 2.jpg

incidence guage 1.jpg

Edited By Steve Dunne on 03/09/2019 15:05:57

Thread: Precedent Stampe 1/4 Scale
02/09/2019 20:27:21

Hi Bert,

I agree that the new plan "looks about the same" as the old one.
I have only had the old one for a couple of days, and am currently building the fuselage. I have already had a few "A-ha" moments when comparing the two plans - I think that once you have built one of these, the plan is easy to follow. If not, it can be very confusing in parts.
On the new plan, the side stringers are very confusing - I don't think that whoever re-drew this plan realised what is going on here. It appears that the 1/4 x 1/4 sits on top of the 3/32 capping...
Also - the spruce longerons are drawn at 5mm, not 1/4", which can throw out the wing seat position a little.
I'm sure that I will find more places where the old plan is clearer - the wing tips already are beckoning!

Thanks again for your help, Bert, and power to your elbow for the new buildyes.

Steve.

31/08/2019 11:35:19

Bert:

Received the copy Precedent plans this morning - thank you!yes

It has already clarified some confusion from the latest version...

Your generous help very much appreciated.

Steve.

29/08/2019 14:02:01

And build a few engines in your spare time...laughcheekylaugh.

29/08/2019 12:47:04

Ha! laughCan't argue with that!

That's a very kind offer, Bert.
Please let me pay for the copying?

Jon - don't worry, I didn't expect you to drop the important things just to search for a long-missing plan!
And as Bert says, there are more important things in your life wink 2.

Steve.

29/08/2019 09:39:04

I'm sure that we'll all be flying top-notch Stampes in a few months - I'm looking forward to it.
The current nuisance is that the re-drawn plan has lots of superimposed lines drawn for various elements, but little shading to indicate which bit is which. I've seen online pics of the original plan, which seems a lot clearer.
I'm still trying to get hold of someone's old version of the plan - doesn't matter about the condition as I will use the new plan for building and the old just for reference.

Reading through this (long) thread and a similar one on RcGroups has been very helpful, thanks to all contributors yes.

Steve.

28/08/2019 18:07:33

I assume you mean silicone sealant? No, I don't think that it actually adheres well enough.
The problem is that the side loads from landings other than perfect (my usual!) are very great, and I have seen similarly constructed wheels split on landing more than once in the past.
The Sarik wheels are split hubs, they are a very tight fit in the tyres. As such, I cannot "experiment" with adhesives with the hubs fitted to the tyres, and if I experiment outside the tyres and find a very successful adhesive, I won't be able to separate them to refit to the tyres!
I am, therefore, asking if anyone has actually used these wheels, and if so how they resolved the problem.

Steve.

28/08/2019 17:36:20

Getting to grips with the SLEC/Precedent kit, not impressed with the re-drawn plan yet as it is difficult to identify some of the parts etc on the plan - they are not shaded as per the original plan. Just needs plenty of study, it eventually dawns!

I have bought a set of DH82a wheels from Sarik - they are very good, if somewhat heavy at around 430grams (nearly a pound surprise).
The wheel hubs are from some unidentified plastic - maybe nylon or polyprop? - does anyone know what the plastic is, or what is a good adhesive for these hubs? I don't want them separating as a result of heavy landings...
How have you previous builders fastened the hub covers to the hubs? They need to be removable. Looking at No2 ST screws so far, but a bit big? Smaller might not hold during side loads on landing?

Exciting stuff!
Steve.

09/08/2019 13:12:15

Thanks Bert and Jon!

Sadly I have (yet again!) family comitments over the bank holiday, so no nats for me once again.

I am happy to pay for post and packing for the manual and for the plans, please PM me if that is acceptable.

Points carefully noted Jon - any more are extremely welcome at this preparation stage smiley.

09/08/2019 11:58:37

After a couple of weeks poring over the plans and manual from my new SLEC (updated Precedent) 1/4 scale Stampe kit, I think that I understand it, and have identified various areas that will need modification for the Laser 180 that is itching to get into it...

I do feel, however, having seen scraps of the original plan and manual in screenshots on various forums, that the newer re-drawn SLEC plans and short manual are not as helpful as the originals.

Does anyone have an old Precedent kit manual, and possibly remains of a worked-on plan, that they no longer need and might agree to sell / copy / loan to me?

Many thanks
Steve.

Thread: Silicon fuel tube rotting?
08/08/2019 09:07:51

Hi Bruce,

All my current silicone tubing came from the LMS...

I'm not worried yet, as only the filler bottles are affected. I will probably buy some un-pigmented stock from elsewhere, when I am more sure about what is happening.

I understand that Tygon stiffens over time when immersed in glow fuel with nitro added.

Thanks anyway!

Steve.

07/08/2019 11:08:25

That's a novel idea!
I hope so - most of my tanks are well out of the sun!wink.

I haven't heard of that before - is it a reasonable idea?
Note that the same silicone tubing out of the top of the container (in the sunshine) appears not to be affected, it is just the bit inside the bottle above the fuel surface.

embarrassed

07/08/2019 09:21:47

I agree "should be" Don, but with nearly 20 large warbirds and other complex aircraft, it becomes a major operation. Many of them need the engine removing to get the tank out, so not a quick/simple task.
On the odd ones that I have investigated or serviced in recent years, I have not seen any deterioration.

The latest rotted silicone tubing was in the bottle only 4 months...
I note that the rotting is only in the part of the tubing above the fuel surface - the submerged part was fine?!?

Still confused but thanks for the comments. frown.

Steve.

06/08/2019 14:54:04

Thanks for the comments.

I think I will have to try to find some of the older, non-coloured tubing and try that.

I just hope that the same problem does not happen inside the fuel tanks...surprise.

Steve.

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