Here is a list of all the postings Geoff Parkes has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Vintage airframe coverings.|
I cover a lot of my models using tissue and dope ,the tissue is obtained from Ben Buckle models the sheet size is 18" wide by 6.0 metres long for an amazing price of £7.50 per sheet , its called wet strength medium weight .On scale models on the sheeted surfaces a coat of sanding sealer then tissue applied with non shrinking dope, then coats of dope ,sanding and re-doping produces a very strong and smooth surface for painting. For painting I go to a local car refinishing supplier who mix any colour that I want in a polyester finish, matt , semi or glass paint for about £10 pounds for a quarter litre , which is enough to finish a say 70 inch model, you need a compressor and gun but these are available at reasonable cost and once you have them they can be used over and over again
|Thread: RC Castle|
I have used them many times for spares for Freewing planes , and EDF fans their prices are the best and he" adjusts" the customs declaration to keep import costs to a minimum . Standard delivery costs for items usually take about 2 weeks to arrive, if you can specify Singapore airlines at an additional cost should get your bits in about a week.The service is fantastic he keeps you advised by E mail usually by return.There was a video of his unit on U tube not long ago you would not believe what he has stocked in something that looks as big as a garage.
|Thread: New EDF Mini Jets- Jet Provost & Folland Gnat|
Tony, so glad that you are feeling well enough to start designing new planes for us to build, when will the Phantom and the jet provost be available , will they be free plans or available direct from you? I think the responce for any of these small jets would be fantastic. I have just finished a small all balsa Skyray which is awaiting its maiden, I used the FMS 50 mm fan but to get it to fit I had to leave the bell mouth off the front of the fan, but the thrust will still send the jet across my bench, it pulls around 23 amps and gives about 230 watts on a used old 3 s battery so I think the performance is as published, also I can only fit a 1300 3 s battery so duration will be a problem, I purchased the fan unit from bangood in China they are selling them for around £20 pounds at the moment post free plus a couple of dollars extra for priority air mail which gets to you in about a week, again Tony. glad to see you back the hobby needs you.
|Thread: Please answer the following two questions if you can.|
I agree probably if you are like me I pick a model to build but as I am building this project I am thinking/ looking at the next project, if for some reason you hit a snag on the current project that needs the all important thinking time, my mind starts to drift onto the unstarted project, the result of all this is it takes some time to resurect the enthusiasm to get back into the build of the first one, I find that if you can work on the first project for say a couple of days the enthusiasm soon returns.
|Thread: Prostate Cancer|
I agree with all comments regarding getting check ups as often as possible , my prostate problems started about 10 years ago, during a visit to my G.P. he asked me how many times I had to go to the toilet during the night , I told him maybe 2-3 times he gave me a rectal exam there and then, the result was an enlarged prostate, a P.S.A. test confirmed a reading of approx.5 if I remember correctly, in those days in the West Mids. area a multy sample biopsy was done and then an M.R.I done after the biopsy, a flow test was also taken the result of all this was I was prescribed Tamsulosin once a day and my P.S.A was checked every 6 then 12 months. about 4 years ago my P.S.A. started to drift up- got to 8 at one stage , this resulted to referal to the urology clinic again, but this time a M.R.I. was taken before the biopsy, I think this gives them some idea where to take the samples? the result of this was I was prescribed with 1 tablet of finasteride to try and control the prostate, I still have to have P.S.A. tests every year but at the moment the readings are between 4-5 . My doctor told me that nearly every man dies with some sort of prostate problem but not many die as a course of it. I am now 74 still have to get up in the night , but if going for tests , biopsies and taking an incresing number of prescribed medicens keeps me fit enough to enjoy building and flying toy planes I think its a small price to pay.
|Thread: HobbyKing Why did I order from HobbyKing?????|
I can only second what the majority of the above are saying, been using H.K. for years, in the past they have had a reputation of being awkward when returning goods, but I think they have listened to the customers and are more tolerant on "faulty " goods being returned,In all my dealings with H.K. I have only had one problem , it was a faulty speedo I returned it to the U.K. branch and had it replaced in less than 7 days.Regarding speed of service usually within 48 hours for U.K. branch and say 72 hours for the E.U. branch, if ordered from the international branch if via Singapore airlines it will take about 14 days, but be prepared for stiff additional charges for inport duty, VAT and a charge from the good old post office for the delivery.
|Thread: Canopy/Hatch magnets|
I buy mine from Hobby king, they sell round or square various sizes as cheap as chips, never had one fail, as mentioned above use them in pairs, with a dowel or tongue locating the front, most ARTF,s have the tongue fixing as standard, I also epoxy the magnets in because if used in pairs they can take some pulling apart.
|Thread: Lipo advice|
I cant see that anyone has expressed the importance of keeping an eye on lipo packs when charging, i would not use a charger that cannot be specifically programmed for input into the lipo ,and I would never use a charger that cannot be adjusted, most of the good chargers do a battery check prior to starting the charge cycle and let you know if there is a problem.
|Thread: Best electric motor brand?|
if you are looking at price only ,look at what bangood sell, i have recently purchased a small electric motor to power a foamy eagle, bangood stocked the motor which was the listed item in the "planes " instructions, order placed, some 4 weeks later i received the motor, accessory kit all in a posh looking box for the princely sum of £2.99 plus 8 p. insurance, post free, not tested the motor but first impressions are well built and smooth running, its a racerstar brand.
|Thread: moonglow V1build|
Thanks to everyone for the help, as I spent 2 hours getting the screws out of the firewall that hold the nose wheel on yesterday afternoon, I think i will go as my first idea of converting to a tail drager, might take out the forward angle of the main legs, lets hope it does not induce a nose over attitude on take off, will advise , i think 6s on my set up will be to much, but a Watt meter will confirm, will advise once I can stop the prop. hitting the ground !
Is anyone else building one of these planes , it was a free plan a couple of RCME issues ago its a 60,s style aerobatic plane with trike undercart, the plan leaves several areas up to the builder to sort out, I have built it for electric power no problems there, its got a 5055 motor, 70 amp speedo,15x8 prop. I have not watt tested it yet but on 6 s it seems to have loads of power, during the build I kept checking the C/G balance, keeping the tail light, the usual things that you check when building lecy. planes.The problems started when I tried to balance the plane on its wheels for the first time, I had previously balanced the plane with a slightly nose heavy C/G but tying to get the plane to balance on its wheels was impossible the tail kept dropping to the bench (its a trike undercart) the legs are raked forward, there is no details of leg length or rake angle on the plan , the legs can only be located in one position the bearers are shown on the plan and the wing ribs are shaped accordingly, I have packed 65mm under the main wheels this gives a positive feel to the balance of the plane on the bench, but I have now so much negative angle of attack that there is no gap under the prop. I am at the moment converting it to a taildragger, but before I cut the hinges on the rudder to fit a steerable tailwheel does any one have any thoughts or suggestions as trike undercarts were a feature of 60, s aerobatic planes and it seems a pitty if I remove this feature if there is an answer out there that i am overlooking
|Thread: Which was the best decade for the hobby?|
For me it has to be the 60,s I as many users of this forum are of a certain age it might just be nostalgia but things seemed to be more easy going, you had to put into the hobby to get anything out, there were no ARTF,s radio control was there but only for the well heeled, so control line and free flight were popular , you had to build from kits or plans and it was your expertese in doing this that depended on if the plane flew or not, but a few lessons learnt the hard way stop with you for a lifetime.
|Thread: What paint for a Vought F4 U Corsair|
I second the idea for going to B and Q, if you take the smallest part of the plane you want the paint to match they will scan the colour and mix a small quantity of emulsion - they dont offer enamel, the cost is approx £2.00 for a tub large enough to repaint the whole plane, I find the silk finish is more resistant to scrapes than matt.I have used this service for years and find the match spot on.
|Thread: What paint to tint a windscreen?|
Back in my slot car racing days (mid 60,s ) we use to buy "jelly mold " transparent car bodies , usually of the U.S,saloon cars of that era, they all looked the same , but were larger than the British saloon cars , some bright spark discovered that if you covered the inside with flourescent pen markers the rougher the better, then sprayed the inside of the body with hair spray- harmony from wolworths seemed to work the best, maybe because it was the cheapest brand, the results were a amazing psycodelic finish as the hair spray reacted with the marker . Probably highly illegal now in our health and safety world.
|Thread: Modelling Board / Pin Board.|
The cheapest option is to buy a sheet of plaster board and place on the top, I use this method on top of a ply workbench as cheap chips approx. £5 for 8X4 sheet, I cant get that in my car , so I take a stanley knife and cut in half, this gives you 4 surfaces to build from.
|Thread: Tony Nijhus Vulcan.|
I agree with Craig,I built the EDF version, had it a few years now, it only comes out on special occasions but it flies superbly, I bungy launch mine this ensures a perfect launch every time , its only 48 inch span but it ends up one large triangle of a model,4 cheap fans and speed controllers ,dont bother with retracts and you end up with a model with something like 15 oz. per sq. ft loading, it flies from nil wind to 30 mph wind and handles it all superbly, I wont enlarge on the envious looks , comments you get from fellow club mates when you turn up with your Vulcan to fly
|Thread: Motorcycles and model flying|
No experience of motor bikes, but in the mid 50,s I used to strap a C/L combat model to my back with string, the lines were wrapped around a National Health babies dried milk tin with the fuel odd props etc inside the tin and the tin carried in a saddle bag, I used this method of getting to the field (Perton airfield or East Park in Wolverhampton) by push bike for years.
|Thread: Which are recommended|
I try to buy all my balsa / ply from SLEC from the the shows that I go to during the year, I am a prolfic builder in the winter months ( on my third build this season ) and SLEC show prices seem to be cheaper than their mail order prices. You can select the wood or ask the helpfull staff to sort for you, my advise is to get to the tent early as the balsa sales side gets very busy. Take advantage of looking at the other side of the tent because they carry a large range of accessories.
|Thread: The Ohmen|
Happy new year Peter, following on from my Peggy sue 2 build , which as i have told you before flies so well it has prompted 3 other members of my club to build one, I was tempted into building The Ohmen again very easy to build costs next to nothing in wood and lecy bits. and flyes just as good as P.S.2 I think the only negative is because its smaller than PS2 it can be affected more by wind strength,we fly off a field that is always windy and I have noticed that if I take both planes PS2 battles on regardless but the Ohmen struggles, probably because its not got the power of my PS2, but small price to pay as on good days its a pleasure to fly with many good comments from the crowd, I have just put one cockpit on mine , if I had any idea how to put pictures up I would post planes photos, regards geoff.
|Thread: model recommendation|
I think my best flying war bird was a gold edition top flight P47, it was about the 60 in. version ,not certain if its still for sale as a kit, easy build all ribs have have tabs to make certain you get a straight wing with the right wash out, you even get jigs for drilling the the holes for the Robart type pin hinges, it builds into a great looking plane and there are loads of good finshes out there to use. It was my last I.C. powered plane and I sold it on, i can still see it coming in to land flying slow with flaps fully down ! I agree having built a few of T.N,s war birds I cannot see how he gets to the flying weight he publishes, but I have one of his 4 fan vulcans and the published weight is correct giving a 15 oz./ft wing loading resulting in an amazing flying plane , dont ask how the others faired.
Want the latest issue of RCM&E? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!