Here is a list of all the postings Rem Fodder has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: RAF's Finest Biplane? Hawker Fury MkI|
Danny, I watched the brief You Tube overview of the rotary actuator for the ailerons in the Fury. One word, Brilliant!
Edited By Rem Fodder on 08/07/2018 03:16:09
The owners manual states that material up to 1/16" can be sheared, including mild steel. So far I have sheared .010", 1/32" and 1/16" brass and aluminum with ease. I think if one were to try and shear steel, the tool would need to be bolted down to a bench, otherwise for the softer metals simply holding it by hand or with a C clamp on the bench works just fine. Bending material is a breeze too, the tool comes with a full length 8" die and a number of smaller dies of different width for finesse work. As with a lot of hobby grade tools, this one required a little bit of tweaking centered around the shear and brake stops. It was necessary to clean up the rough edges for smooth adjustment as fresh out of the box the stops would bind as I tried to adjust them in and out along the guides for cut widths. A bit of polishing with emery cloth and the odd kiss with a file had everything working as it should.
The photos are of the functional sprung bungee landing gear I managed to come up with for my Cub project. Having the shear/brake was very helpful. An earlier attempt to try this with hand tools was an exercise in wasted effort and material. I simply could not get the repeatability or accuracy required. It was also very helpful making up some .010" brass shims for a center fire rifle scope mount.
Just thought I'd post about this mini metal shear and bending brake I purchased last year before Christmas. I believe its made by or sold by Micro Mark tools, see the You Tube demo: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BHpl0kQKgOM
My purchase was from Canadian online tool supplier Busy Bee Tools under their Craftex tool name: https://www.busybeetools.com/
I used it to bend up brass landing gear components for the Super Cub currently on the bench and it worked very well. Capacity is 8" wide stock, and shears/bends .0625", or 1/16" brass aluminum with ease. I got tired of trying to cut and bend accurately with hand shears, vises and pliers so decided to pull my finger out and get something better suited for the task.
Edited By Rem Fodder on 06/07/2018 14:08:02
Edited By Rem Fodder on 06/07/2018 14:11:49
For anyone interested, there is now a completed but not yet flown electric Bryant Fury MkI. Please check the link to the thread I started on RC Groups: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2548913-Hawker-Fury-Mk-1/page8
Edited By Rem Fodder on 02/06/2018 13:20:42
For anybody interested, the chap that's been building his Fury on the thread I started in RC Groups has come a long way with it. He came up with a novel approach to the oversize stock aluminum spinner. Cheers!
I checked the spinners base diameter and it measures 103.6 mm. The cowl measures differently from top to bottom vs side to side. If the base is removed from the spinner, it meets up to the cowl pretty decent. Would be easy to correct this if I had access to a lathe.
For anyone interested, I had started this thread on RC Groups a while ago. My kit awaits its time in the build queue, but another fellow has started his.
This is the link: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2548913-Hawker-Fury-Mk-1
Very nice, and I can see that it is quite effective. The tape I have is essentially ducting tape as well, of a commercial quality. There are two models in my build queue that would be good candidates for experimentation on with the tape before committing to the Fury.
|That is a lovely model. Hope mine turns out half as good!|
Has anyone tried adhesive backed aluminum tape to simulate panels? I'm curious as I have a large roll of it in my tool box and have often wondered if it would be useful for such work.
Reading through the latest posts about the cowl spinner mismatch, I took a look at mine and snapped a pic so everybody could see. Definitely a noticeable difference. I'm not so sure that it could be easily rectified? Perhaps a bit of material could be added to the cowl to achieve a nicely faired transition? While I personally enjoy scale models and the efforts builders go through to achieve scale perfection, I think I can live with this.
Percy, my thoughts were probably closer to the E-Flite P-90 or similar motor. But you are right that the P-60 would definitely be a contender. The P-110 I use in the WACO has a generous amount of power to pull the near 14lb model around with authority. By using a higher voltage set up in the WACO, current draw remains low and subsequently everything stays cool. Something I think would be a priority for a closed cowl model like the Fury.
That Gold's design is a very nice model and flies superbly.
Thanks for the feedback on the motor / prop question. I was basing that guesstimate on a model that I currently fly, a Great Planes WACO YMF5 that was converted to fly electric instead of the recommended 30cc IC engine. Specs for the model are a wingspan of 72", wing area of 1384 sq/in and an all up flying weight of approx 13.8 lbs. The WACO is powered with an E-Flite Power 110 on 8s 3300 mah battery (actually two 4s 3300 mah packs series together) turning an APC 17x8 prop. Actual inflight data yields a modest draw of about 13.5 amps avg for cruising, and a max draw of 49.3 amps. Realistic 8 minute flight times are no problem with enough reserve to make an aborted landing a non issue.
I felt that with the Fury being a few pounds lighter than my WACO, 1000 watts would be just about right. Will have to go back to the plans to get an idea of prop dia. The WACO can readily handle an 18`prop, but the 18 incher will mow the dandelions with ease on the take off run when the tail comes up.
Hi all. New member here. This past February I had ordered and took delivery of the Bryant Fury Mk 1 short kit plus cowl and spinner. Doing some research on the topic I discovered this forum. A question I have regards electric power for this kit. Has anyone come up with a motor prop combination to use? My best guess as a starting point was for a motor of around 1000 watts on a 6s lipo and a prop 13"-14" dia.? I already have a Castle Phoenix Edge 100 amp ESC for it.
I have no ambitions to start construction any time soon as there are just too many pokers in my fire at the moment, but like to plan my builds out well in advance.
Thanks for any insights, and best wishes to all who get started on this project.
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