Member postings for alex nicol

Thanks for the info.

I'm looking to cut balsa, lite ply and birch ply up to a max thickness of 3mm.

It'll be light hobby use, ideally I'd like to be able to cut formers and wing ribs for plan and od builds.

I can foresee many evenings of gnashing of teeth and hair tearing ahead

I've just taken the plunge and ordered an Alphawise C30 DIY kit and have absolutely no experience in cad or what software to use or even what works with what etc. Very steep learning curve ahead methinks

Is there an idiots guide somewhere that outlines the basics of how it all works

Thanks in advance

Alex

Can't say I've ever heard that one before.

For what it's worth I'd be inclined to leave the pedals on as feet on pedals add to the stability of riding the bike.

Both of my kids learned to ride their bikes (many years ago) pedals on with no problems.

Just made and quickly tested a 48" bow, it cut nicely about the 20v mark, the set up is a bit crude but so far so good.

Unfortunately lack of foam stops play for now. I've ordered a 1200 x 600 x 300mm block. I've scaled up Mike D's Big Easy to 82" span and will give the wings and tail a bash once foam arrives.

I'll stick some plcs up shortly

Cheers

Alex

Quick Update,

I bought a 24v 3a laptop type power supply with an adjustable output of 9 to 24v (about £8 on ebay)

The current bow is circa 33"with 0.5mm nichrome wire giving a resistance value of 7.8 ohms and giving a nice cut at about 15v. Next step is to extend the bow to around 44" and try again.

One question I do have, is what material do you find works best for cutting template

Thanks

Alex

Hi Amy,

Looks like you've got quite a project on your hands. Im sure I'm speaking for a lot of the guys on here when I say, we'd really love to see a couple of pictures of your Mustang.

Happy restoring

Alex

Ignore the Chilli Wind question, senior moment on my part

Alex

Measure from the bottom of the thickest part of the tip rib to the desk. Also put one half of the wing on the desk and set the tip of the other wing to 2" from the desk, this will give you 1" under each tip.

Is it a Chilli Wind by any chance?

Cheers

Alex

Hi Gents,

Thanks for the info, I guess it looks like I'll need to just do some more homework and take the plunge and 'suck it and see' as they say

Cheers

Alex

I'm hopeing somebody can give me a steer on a suitable foam wing cutter set up.

I have a variable 9 - 24vdc/3a/72w PSU and was wondering if this would be adequate and what cutting wire would be recommended

Cut length will be in the 0.75m to 1m range.

Thanks

Alex

Hi Robert,

I hope you can help. I'm considering the purchase of the eleksmaker a3 2.5mw laser (USB version) and am interested in how you expanded the cut area.

Was it a kit of parts, or did you just purchase longer rails?

would I be correct in assuming a longer servo belt would be required?

are there any Settings/parameters which need changed to reflect the longer cutting area?

Thanks in Advance

Alex

Hi Tim,

I'd agree with above re 1/32 ply doubler. The thing is, if you are unlucky enough to have the ground come up kind of quickly it will break either side of the wing just like the pictures above regardless of how thick the doubler is

Here's my 2, the one on the left is the modified one & the other is the original built from the pre decimal plan (5/- I think). The modified one is about 20 Years old & the other (inherited) must be about 40 years old. Both were modified to replace banded on wings with dowel & bolt

It might be worth trying some Acetone, it's pretty good for removing most adhesives

Cheers

Alex

I had the same issue with mine, I bought the kit after reading the RCM&E review, right down to the ST 90.

First couple of times it flicked it really scared me, but as above reduced the elevator throws and it behaved not too badly.

Edited By Steve Hargreaves - Moderator on 12/11/2019 20:41:37

I've built both versions off the original plan and I'm pleased to say they are both still in existence. While both are great flying planes the modified version with no dihedral and larger control surfaces in my humble opinion is the better of the two.

That said both are completely viceless and fun to fly, I'm sure you'll enjoy whichever version you choose.

Alex

I guess the answer is far too many, thing is if you put a slight spin on the question to read 'how many unfinished projects is SWMBO aware of ? I bet the number would be significantly less ;o)

My to do list

1. Precedent fun fly to renovate/refurb

2. Phoenix 1/5 scale Pilatus PC21 to finish off gear instal

3. Pilot 1/3.5 Bucker Jungman half covered

4. Chilli Wind scaled up to 80" to get on the building board.

5. Flair Christen Eagle light U/c damage to repair and sell

6. Falcon Aviation Eurobat to re maiden after fuselage rebuild.

7. Numerous ideas I'm fighting to keep locked away until the previous items are dealt with

Alex

In support of Conrads post I've experienced the same, twice over.

The Irivine 53 has been my favoured weapon of choice for several years. I've currently got 3 of them, 2 with the black carb and one with the silver OS carb. Of the 2 black carbs one has had a lot of use ( several years) and the other has only been in use for a couple of seasons and the OS carb one has only recently been taken out of the box.

The high mileage one exhibited the loose idle needle fault after a couple of years, to resolve I lightly nicked the bottom couple of threads on the needle which gave enough resistance to cure the fault. When I took the 2nd engine out of the box, the idle needle felt very loose, so it was subjected to the thread nick solution and I'm pleased to say both engines remain trouble free to this day.

Alex

The answer to this may already be out there in the various posts and if so please accept my apologies in advance.

Once we are given our CAA number, is there any regulations on font size and where on the model it can be located. By location I'm just looking for a simple inside the model ( perhaps under a hatch) or does it need to be prominently displayed on the outside.

Thanks in Advance

Alex

Watching with interest.

Ive had the misfortune of 'rekitting' a couple of artf's, the method I've used is to build a jig to hold/support the structure and cyano all the original parts in place ( no matter how small) once this is done it should be strong enough to handle unsupported.

Next step it to apply lightweight glass cloth on the outside of the fus over the glued parts. Warm the epoxy in the microwave before mixing to reduce the viscosity apply cloth and epoxy then cover with acetate sheet and squeegee any excess epoxy off and leave for 24 hrs to dry. once dry remove the acetate sheet. Done properly it'll leave you a very strong lightweight repair with a smooth glass like finish.

Good luck with your repair

Forgot to add, I also opted for a built up sectioned tail

Cheers

Alex