Here is a list of all the postings alex nicol has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: IC and Electric|
While I don't have a difinative answer, I've had the same experience changing an ic power plant, either 2st to 4st or even going from a 2st 60 to a 2st 90 ............my guess would be Nigel may have the answer Prop dia/pitch and increase decrease of torque could be where the answer lies and the electric vs ic element has no bearing........other than the fact wiggly amps aren't as heavy as glow fuel.
|Thread: cutting foam|
Ive just been messing about with a home made foam cutter powered with a PC PSU controlled with a dimmer switch. I've tried various types of cutting wire from 0.27 - 0.6 nichrome wire ti lay straight control line wire. ideally I'm looking to cut a 30" span section.
Has anybody else tried this and if so what wire/PSU did you use
|Thread: Hangar 9 P47 repair|
As above, Dremel a good sized slot and try a flat blade. worst case if you damage the retract lug a washer can always fix that out for you.......good luck.......would be good to know how you get on
|Thread: Another returnee to aeromodeling|
Welcome Back ............our hobby is in dire need of balsa bashing ic'ers..........the foam leccy mob are taking over!!!!!
|Thread: Ebay sellers...|
I've asked him for a video of it running............
|Thread: NGH 9CC running in|
To get back to the original question of slow pick up, if your idle setting is a little rich, it'll idle ok, but when you whack it open it'll take a second or two to burn off the excess fuel as the revs increase. I agree with above, if you adjust the idle, small increments at a time
|Thread: which is cheaper,IC or ELECTRIC?|
It's all about choice, as technology advances the choice of propulsion units increase. when James Watt invented the steam engine, they couldn't imagine the ic engine, let alone electric units
|Thread: Ebay sellers...|
Perfect working order as a paperweight in a nuclear power station ........perhaps!!!!!
(one mans junk is another mans tat)
|Thread: Best First Three Point Undercarriage|
Apologies I just re-read your post, and took it as converting tail dragger to trike .......senior moment.
Only trike model I've had to date is a Gangster 63........ excellent plane but not sure if Mick Reeves is still making them
All I'd say is keep it as low as you can but maintain prop ground clearence and ensure model sits level with the ground........that said, why do you want to change it
|Thread: Ebay sellers...|
Just looking at his other items.........and its given me an idea.........I think I'll advertise a window for sale.......no glass and no frame.........but absolutely stunning view.........collection only as its too big to post.........any takers?
Used about a year ago.........what as....... a paperweight
|Thread: Hobby King|
I've only used HK a few times but haven't had any real issues. I Ordered a set of electric retracts which didn't work. Contacted the help desk, sent a quick vid showing servo working but retracts not. A few hours later I got an email back asking me to set the retract ATV on my tx to max and as if by magic all worked well. Turns out I'd had air retracts in and the atv was close to min as the retract valve had a very short throw
|Thread: More advice required for Precedent Bi-Fly|
Re previous post, if you search for Radioactive CA144 12g 5 hole you'll see what I mean
You don't need to solder anything you can get plastic extender arms which are a bit like screw on horns
|Thread: Wings at an angle.|
As said above if it flies ok then I'd be inclined to leave well alone. There's a lot to be said for the old adage
'If it ain't broke, don't fix it'
Having said that, you also have to factor in just how much knowing the wings are out of line annoys you.
Good luck with whatever you decide
|Thread: Returning to the hobby after 15 years - need advice!|
if you still have your original radio equipment it'd still be OK to use it, while the vast majority are on 2.4 theres nothing wrong with 35mhz. Only thing I'd advise is bin any old batteries (inc tx) and replace any model switches, just incase there's been any -ve lead corrosion
wot 4 would be absolutely perfect.......and it is just like riding a bike........first couple of flights might be a bit rough, but it'll all come flooding back after that
|Thread: Solartex alternative?|
Happy days indeed, the really scary thing is I remember getting banished to the hut because dope wasn't allowed in the house........thing is in winter, the door would be shut and an old naked flame parifin heater was used to keep out the cold.........with absolutely no thought to the potential fire risk or effect of the fumes.........but these things aren't important when you're in your early teens.
Certainly a lot simpler days
I agree with Percy, although My experience of tissue or nylon doped finishes is limited to my time in control line early/mid 70's
dope and light sand the airframe before covering then use dope to stick the covering on.......tensioning was done by pinning the nylon around the perimeter. once the structure was covered and dried out......remove the pins and then dope the remainder of the nylon.
A doped nylon structure is about as strong as you'll get, having flown a lot of the old control line combat wings where it wasn't uncommon for them to be piled in, pulled out muck scraped out restarted and flung back into the air to complete the bout. You could be left with a nylon bag containing a semi destroyed structure that held its shape and was still fly able................mind you I don't miss the three days spent after completing a model picking the dope off your fingers!!!
Final point I've used solar text but for me a nylon and doped finish looks much better.
|Thread: Gas soldering Torch|
Gents, I agree with Bruce, it's about the amount of heat you can transfer to the area to be soldered and the ability to work quickly to reduce the danger of collateral damage. gas or electric source makes no difference. on some occasions I've used 2 smaller irons and achieved a better results
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