Here is a list of all the postings alex nicol has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Take off dolly for a Funfighter, anyone used one?|
I used to have the Mustang many moons ago, grossly over powered with a 32 (can't remember if it was SC or APS) What I do remember was take offs were as hairy as hell unless it got a right good fast heave into the air.
That said once I'd realised why, take offs were no problem.
As mentioned I think you could have problems with the dolly if you had no rudder
|Thread: Single servo ailerons|
The reason I asked as to the current aileron deflections was there is no mention in the thread. I just wanted to rule out the obvious and check the throws are currentlyset to something sensible.
Apologies if this a bit obvious
Before anything is adjusted, have you measured the aileron deflection and compared it to the recommended deflections?
Also have you checked the balance point
|Thread: ASP prop driver stuck!|
I've been watching this thread with interest and to be honest am amazed at the volume of advice offered for what in essence is a fairly simple issue, it's the solution that's proving somewhat obstinate.
Looks like the new puller should do the trick
I could be off the mark here, from memory I think the ASP also has a woodruff key that locates the prop driver?
I have something niggling in the back of my mind that if this key drops out jammed prop driver or slipping prop position can occur.
I tried to check the Just Engines Website for parts diagram before posting but its down for maintenance at the minute.
Agree with Solly, sounds like you might need to use a hotter heat source to get the driver off
|Thread: Greetings from Paul.|
We had similar issues with a club members "jumper 25" , the root cause was the grass was too long and Unfortunately our grass cutter was otherwise engaged.
We put a bigger nose wheel on and changed the prop to a smaller diameter with greater pitch ( 3 blades are less efficient than 2 ) and spread the rear undercarriage legs to increase the prop to grass gap. Prior to take off the model was pushed forward a few feet to create a couple of tracks. The final step was to restrain the model until full power was reached and let it go with a little up elevator held in.
At first there was a few hairy take offs but we soon had the knack.
Hope this is of use to you
|Thread: ASP 1.80 fs vs DLE 30 2s|
Thanks Gents, much appreciated
Fortunately our flying site is in deepest farming country and we have no noise restrictions. That said I'll be fitting a Pitts style silencer to the DLE. If it was purely sound based it'd be the ASP no contest.
Given both power units are similar weights and the dimensions of the airframe (length 79" wingspan 69" I think I'll go for power in this instance.
That said, having recently completed a Chilli Wind and being delighted with it, I've a motion to build a scaled up version ( 1.3 ish ) which should take it to about 75" and make a good home for the ASP.
I have an ASP 1.80 fs and a DLE 30 2s and wondering how they compare for power. The 1.80 has seen a bit of running/flying and as yet the DLE is still in the box.
I have a Phoenix models PC21 (1/5 scale) and was wondering which engine would be best to use.
Any thoughts appreciated
|Thread: ED Hunter MK IV - Prop nut assembly damage|
Try Just Engines, They do crankshaft extender nuts. Not sure what sizes but might be worth a look
|Thread: Downthrust or Upthrust|
Good question. My guess would be the reason for the pitching on hand launch could just be the speed of launch, especially as it flys OK after the launch. Altering the thrust angle may affect normal flying.
you'll get some more technically detailed responses to your question than mine
|Thread: What have I got here ?????|
Do you have a picture?
|Thread: How to Straighten Horizontal Stabilizer?|
If the tail sits on top of the fuselage it might be simpler to do a vertical cut at the tail LE and a single cut under the tail and remove the fin and tail as one unit. This would allow easier access to the fuselage for any remedial work.
Do you have the name of the model or a picture of the tail end by any chance
Hi Ash, I agree with Andy. Assuming it's a solid tail and not out by much, you could try the blade on one side only. The blade will create a gap which may be enough to let you flex the tail (Good Luck)
|Thread: Extra Hot Chilli|
Watching with interest. By coincidence I maidened my Chilli Wind yesterday and absolutely loved it.
|Thread: Forum members' new models: Let's see them.|
My Gumtree ARTF purchase, maiden flight (Garage find boxed ARTF), anybody recognise it
|Thread: Ripmax ARTF stocks|
What I posted is my opinion based on many years experience within supply chain and service industries. The model industry is no different to any other. If demand drops financial constraints tighten and this action will cause the supplier to review their costs.
Such review could result in a supply to order and/or actually reduce the amount of lines offered. This in turn could mean slow moving items are sacrificed to make way for faster churning more profitable lines.
I could go on at length about the various factors which could affect things but, I think we'd all loose the will to live if I did.
One area wher I absolutely agree with you is if you can't buy it artf then build it.
In the challenging times in which we live, suppliers can't afford to have vast sums tied up in stock and are gradually moving towards a supply to order or a just in time stock replenishment particularly on larger/expensive items.
Suppliers, Shops etc just don't carry the stock they used to and it's not just the modelling fraternity.
|Thread: Slowing down (a sports-aero) on landings - flaperons or spoilerons?|
For what it's worth, the way I see it is if you got a rudder then learn to use it. We've all had to handle the weather vain effect caused by crosswind landings, the crab approach and that final bit of corrective rudder before flairing out and touching down looks so much neater.
One of the things I enjoy doing is practicing circuits and final approaches/touch and goes ( fortunately it's a small club and it's extremely rare for more than one model to be in the air at a time) Added to the mix I do a random simulated dead stick from various positions/heights. If you get it wrong, power on and round again.........as they say practice makes perfect .............well that's the theory. I'm still working on that bit
|Thread: Sewn hinges|
Whilst square, beveled and rounded surfaces will work ok, after many years of flying controline combat models which mostly had 1/8" elevators I say rounded is best. Also there is no need to stitch along the whole length of the control surface.
The other thing you could consider is if you're using iron on covering you could use that to hinge the control surface
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