Here is a list of all the postings Ian McTaggart has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Buddying with FlySky transmitters|
At seventy years old I have just started learning to fly RC. I have a
FlySky FS-T6 and need to get another transmitter to use with a buddy lead.
Can anyone tell me if the newer FS-i6 would be compatible for this situation?
Or will I have get another FS-T6?
|Thread: Mercury Tiger Moth|
You were absolutely right.
I got a bit too much fuel in the Mills for the Tutor's first flight, at Old Warden. After quite a bit of faffing it oscillated a few times then burst into life. It flew about 10 feet from a rather hasty hand launch, straight into the grass. There were a few giggles and a wise old observation from the left: - 'engine was running backwards'!
We managed a short flight after that, so not a complete disaster.
So simple to put a hand up to check the airflow. Thank you.
I am finding it difficult to believe how much I knew about aeromodelling 55 years ago and how much I am having to re-learn now. It's very frustrating but a good source of exercise for the old grey matter.
|Thread: Vintage airframe coverings.|
Like you David, I grew up with nylon and dope, especially for C/L, it was very strong.
Here's a little story about nylon and silk.
My daughter got married a couple of years ago and one of her friends offered her her own wedding dress. It was the right size, had been custom made and cost thousands of pounds. Only problem was that it had a stain on the front from a mishap at the reception!
We all love a bargain, so we took the challenge. Unfortunately, no-one thought they could clean it effectively so it ended up sculling around until Dad got fed up with it and growled. It turned out there was no emotional attachment, so dad 'recycled' the dress.
I now have bin-bags full of pure white silk and bin-bags full of white nylon - from the inner layers.
Keep your eyes open Chaps.
|Thread: AP plan Blackburn Monoplane by A.M. Finucane|
Every morning I wake up and look at the fuselage sitting on top of the wardrobe for the A.M. Finucane designed Blackburn Monoplane that I started 55 years ago. I also have a lot of the other parts which I'd cut out.
But, I can't find the plan! Being old school I really don't want to download a copy and try to make sure that the print is exactly the right size for all the parts I already have.
Does anyone have an original copy of this plan which they could bear to part with?
Thanks very much.
|Thread: Mercury Tiger Moth|
Having finished the restoration of my 1960's Frog Tutor ready for Old Warden, I'm on a roll and have started building one of the Mercury Tiger Moth kits that have been in the wardrobe for years. It was the model that inspired me to take up aeromodelling in 1961. Girls were the inspiration for me to set it to one side a few years later.
I've been checking out photos and videos of the full size aircraft and have noticed that the Gipsy engine rotates clockwise, whilst the convention for models generally seems to be anticlockwise.
Here's the question. If I fit a Pusher prop would it pull from the front if the motor was started anticlockwise? And, would the Mills .75 mind running the other way?
You've all been very helpful with my previous questions. I hope this one doesn't have you falling off your seats with laughter.
|Thread: Mills 0.75 piston and conrod replacement|
She's a runner! Thanks very much for all the encouragement, without it I would still be cogitating.
Good suggestion to run the motor and get the settings right before reinstalling in the plane. Thank you.
Fortunately I recently found my nice 1960's aluminium adjustable engine clamp in the back of the shed and after marinating in WD40 it has cleaned up nicely, so the floorboards safe!
Many thanks for your advice.
The transplant is complete although I haven't run it, it feels and sounds good.
I bought an 'old people's' bottle opener off Amazon which was excellent for getting the cooling fins off without any damage and I used my Dremel to cut a couple of slots into the end of a tube spanner, which was perfect for removing the backplates. The crank in the broken, recipient engine, felt nice and tight with very little end float so that has stayed and the donor conrod looked snug on its new big end.
For the serial number officianados; 58 121 has donated its cylinder, contra-piston, piston and conrod to 50 968 which I think must have been damaged very early in it life.
Hopefully it will run ok when it is re-installed into the restored/rebuilt Frog Tutor that has been the donor's home for the last 50+ years.
Many thanks gentlemen. That is most helpful and reassuring.
I'm one of those time-warp returners: - after 50 plus years. Thank you in advance for your indulgence.
I have a couple of Mills 0.75 motors, one of which runs well but the mounting bolt holes are rather badly damaged. The other has suffered the fairly well documented catastrophic failure which has resulted in the gudgeon pin being ripped out of the piston skirt. Cosmetically it is excellent.
What do the experts think about swapping the good cylinder, piston and conrod into the better crankcase/crankshaft? Will it work? Are there any tolerances that may be out?
Thanks very much.
|Thread: Hardwood stiffener|
I was quite pleased with myself for discovering a pack of 30 super size 'lolly sticks' for about £1 in Hobbycraft. They are 1/16th" thick (1.8mm), 18mm wide & 150mm long to the tip of the curved end. They are good quality light-weight hardwood and were much better for making new wing-joiners on my free-flight restoration than plywood.
|Thread: 'Returner's questions'|
Thanks jrman but I won't risk running the 55 year old nylon prop , although I may use it for 'posing' with the model so it looks original.
Thanks for your great advice, chaps. Very much appreciated.
I'm going to try the Kavan prop. as it is the most flexible and not dissimilar to the original 1960's KK prop - and I just happen to a have a collet the right size for it.
By the way, after I took the old KK prop off, after about 55 years, I thought it could do with a clean. - a few rubs with a 'Sterets' alcohol wipe brought it up like new.
If the Kavan doesn't work out I shall look at wood props. The 'strong and stiff ' philosophy doesn't really seem right for balsa and tissue.
I'm starting again after over 50 years and I got such good advice from you all when I asked about a suitable motor for the original KK Super 60 kit I got for £10 on Gumtree that I hope you will indulge me with another dilemma: - which doesn't involve R.C. or E.
I'm getting back into the hobby by restoring a free flight Frog Tutor with a Mills .75 that has been on top of the wardrobe since I was a lad. I will try and post some photos because the resurrection has been quite amazing.
Here's my question: I didn't think it wise to run the motor with a 55 year old Keil Kraft nylon propellor, so I ordered some new ones. Oh how things have changed!
I need help in selecting the most suitable prop for free flight with a Mills .75.
Very happy if someone says none of the ones you have bought are suitable - try .............
All are "8x4":
Kavan: colour yellow, but the blades have quite a wide chord and the trailing edge is prominently curved.
Graupner: nice looking grey prop but the hole is enormous! The mills prop- shaft is tiny.
Master Airscrew G/F series: Good profile with l/e & t/e that could double up as a modelling knife but the packet says 'For Glow and Electric Power'. Sounds irrational I know, but is it ok for a small, elderly diesel?
|Thread: Keil Kraft Super 60|
Guys, thanks so much for great advice. DD - the ribs on the original KK S60 are definitely 3/32 but on the Ben Buckle 'structurally improved' plan with aileron wing, the common ribs are 1/16 with 1/16x1/4 cappings. The other modifications look good too. Nigel R.- link to the Enya 41 instructions very much appreciated. thank you. saved me a lot of searching. And thanks all for the useful tips about the Oratex.
Thanks to you all for the advice on inverted and motor sizes for the S60. I've now bought an Enya 35 model 5224, which looks similar to the motor on the 1960's Keil-Kraft plan. And I got an unused Enya 41-4C. As it's not been used do I need to 'run it in'? If so, what is the best way? I'm not completely clueless but I pre-date model four-strokes! Perhaps I'll use the 35 while I'm learning and then switch to the four stroke. The other big gap in my knowledge is covering materials. Back in the day I would have used nylon or silk especially on the wings. I would appreciate wise words on what is considered a strong covering now. If nylon is still available somewhere that might be the way to go, as it would be absolutely contemporary for the model.
Pat Mc and Peter Christy,
Thank you for responding to my post: and thank you very much for your advice.
I'm going to plan towards a small -ish four stroke. 20 to 35? and I will definitely go for inverted.
Hi experts; I've just followed the 'Super 60' posts with great interest.
I am a returning aero-modeller, - after nearly 60 years but I suspect / hope I'm probably in quite good company. Anyway you're not interested in that. I'm buying an original KK Super 60 part-built which hopefully will take to the air in the not too distant future. I have always thought is an elegant model but I have been wondering if it might look even nicer with the engine inverted. Has anyone ever done that?
And please excuse my ignorance, if the answer is yes will a four stroke be happy upside down? (They weren't around when I was a lad).
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