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Member postings for Phil Elliott 1

Here is a list of all the postings Phil Elliott 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Hammer F3F
17/04/2019 19:17:03

Hi Mike, I hope I am not intruding! Unsure about the UK but I have been buying mine from the blejzyk.pl site and artur packs them well and will send them to you at a reasonable price. I live in australia and the postage is about Au$100. This is an amazing plane and if built to the instructions it will fly like an angel from the get go. I have been flying mine for about 2-3 years and although it will fly placidly it can also rip. Very gentle stall and no bad habbits what so ever.

Cheers, Phil

22/02/2019 02:34:31

Good news Dave, Congratulations on a successful build. It is still my go to model after several years. I took mine out to the Mother Hill yesterday and specked it out several times. It is a great spot and the wind was about 25-30kt's yesterday and very gusty. I found booming thermal lift under the big black thunder-clouds that were flashing with electricity every now and again. The model did at least three vertical descents from the clouds to (almost) ground-level and she pulled out promptly on command. No cf wing-spars or ballast. Speed; at least 60mph!

A better value plane is not available in my humble opinion. I know you are going to love this plane. I will pray for you to keep it in one piece. Amen

Cheers, Phil

05/01/2019 17:56:25

Here is a picture of mother hill

https://www.google.com/maps/@-41.1757391,146.2612258,3a,75y,90t/data=!3m8!1e2!3m6!1sAF1QipPRBtX13JapuhpuqcvTEhxV2aHnEjMXY0PruBTk!2e10!3e12!6shttps:%2F%2Flh5.googleusercontent.com%2Fp%2FAF1QipPRBtX13JapuhpuqcvTEhxV2aHnEjMXY0PruBTk%3Dw203-h114-k-no!7i4135!8i2326!5m1!1e4

Edited By Phil Elliott 1 on 05/01/2019 17:58:38

05/01/2019 17:53:40

Hi Dave, I have been thinking about your build. I am wishing you all the best for your maiden. Having said this I think you could have already trimmed the hammer out, and are flying it happily

I have been out flying a lot, because it is Summer here in Tasmania. We are often plagued by big Wedge Tailed Eagles, but for the time being they are leaving most of us alone. I am glad for that, because they have hammered many of my blejzyks and others too.

I have a beautiful Graupner Discus 2b that I love to fly. It has an 11' span and weighs a bit over 9lb. I took it out a week ago and flew the agile and graceful bird, until it became disoriented. That was not a problem, because I was in control! Or, so I thought, after two hours in the air, when my arms and shoulders were aching and my face and arms were sun-burned, I made a spectacular landing. The big bird came down nicely but the wind which was gusting to 28kts picked one tip up, the other tip dragged along the dry grass until the wind caught the old girl and flipped her upside down. She looked like a happless turtle on her back! I couldn't save the pilot who went through the canopy and face planted himself into the hard dirt. A sad story really, but the model survived... With a few repairs Discus will rise again.

So, the Hammer went for a spin today. It is an incredible plane to fly, and in it's turn, took a hard landing in a strong wind. Broke two nylon bolts and sustained a little break on the leading edge. Hammer is fixed and ready to go again.

Today I went to one of the mother-hills to fly Hammer. The location is on the crest of a wooded ridge, which follows the Forth Rv. (in Forth Tasmania) out to the sea. The ridge is 400' asl and when the wind is right (as it was today) The two mile ridge generates enough lift for my Hammer to climb at sixty degrees for ten seconds or more at a time, before the model dipps the nose, recovers, and does another climb. It generates so much lift that elderly people or the feint hearted refuse to fly there. This is the home of the model wrecking Wedge Tails I mentioned earlier. Today was such a day. With endless lift-pistons punching the model upwards. Rapid ascents took the model up until the heat haze made the model barely visable, followed by vertical decents which made me wonder about how strong my wings really are. I kid you not. I can not lie.

I have been back into gliding for five or six years now and I am slowly coming around to the concept of using heavier models for such occasions. These heavier models need to be stronger too - for the vertical dives and recovery from those dives. Landings, I hope, will be better controlled. The only thing that has held me back is the knowledge that heavy models hit hard when we (or 'i' get it wrong.

All the best. Phil

18/12/2018 10:29:02

Nice work Dave. yours looks like a different model compared to my V-Tail version. The colours on the extremities will help to keep you in touch visually against the blue sky or grey clouds.

I would love to see some footage from a 'Head-Cam' once you get it balanced and start using a bit of lead.

Cheers, Phil

14/12/2018 10:20:07

I just read that again, it is a bit strange! But it made sense at the time! Ha ha ha. The mind, and especially the subconcious mind, is an incredible organ.

Moving along now, I have just repaired the wings on my Hammer and it should be in the air in the next few days. I also fixed my 3340mm Graupner Discus and she's up and running again too. The wind has been very strong down here and variable in direction. I am hoping it decides which way to blow over the weekend so I can plan a sortie.

Keep up the hard work on the model, it is definitely worth it. - P.E.

14/12/2018 03:06:42

I can see that the hammer is coming along well Dave. You have your ballast well organised in short slugs and the opening under the inner nose is reasonably small too. It looks pretty 'dangerous' in the orange!

I had a dream nightmare last night. I think it was my mind's way of dealing with the frustration of builders apathy. I have been slack and really want to fly a few of the gliders I have bought. Last night whilst fast asleep, I opened up the box of a 3m carbon speedster I have been keeping under the bed. I showed it to a guy and when he handed it back the wing was rib and spar covered in second grade transparent film. It cost me $1250 and I was furious.

I decided to get on a plane with my faithful bull-terrier and visit the manufacturer in China who told me; "you get what you pay for". I got lost over there and my dog was almost taken by shark whilst scuba diving. In hung-foo province I had to sleep rough on the streets with european and american junkies that loved the place because it was cheap to live there and the drugs were everywhere. I was a 'fish' out of water. I decided to release my grudge on the model builder and come home but couldnt find the airport. A talking donkey told me it was only two blocks away, so I gave him a carrot to take me there. I was early at the check-in for once in my life and I was relieved to be heading home. I decided that I would build all my own planes from now on. I lived happily ever after.

Phil

https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=https%3A%2F%2Fvetstreet-brightspot.s3.amazonaws.com%2F20%2Fc8%2Ff15b9da54a70b1b731914381521e%2FBull-Terrier-AP-9QDKHP-645sm101513.jpg&imgrefurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.vetstreet.com%2Fdogs%2Fbull-terrier&docid=dYzQ5ovotP2bfM&tbnid=3JZcKNOiRx4VAM%3A&vet=10ahUKEwjIvue1qp7fAhVRVH0KHZw8C_sQMwh1KA0wDQ..i&w=645&h=380&client=firefox-b&bih=427&biw=865&q=bull%20terrier&ved=0ahUKEwjIvue1qp7fAhVRVH0KHZw8C_sQMwh1KA0wDQ&iact=mrc&uact=8

Edited By Phil Elliott 1 on 14/12/2018 03:08:27

09/12/2018 00:54:17

I had difficulty getting the white 5mm nylon bolts into the embedded nuts, and they were so tight I screwed the knurled nuts out of the plywood wing bolt block in the fuz.

I think the bolts or the nuts are tapered, maybe both! ha ha.

Then I ran a tap through the knurled nuts and got some m5 bolts off ebay. But I must say, the ebay bolts dont break easily which can be traumatic.

The black plastic ebay bolts are a pretty good compromise I think as they are very secure and will break most of the time.

looking forward to seeing the finished product.. And to be honest I want to see a video of hammer crackin' it on the slope with a bit of lead in the belly!

cheers

02/12/2018 17:27:16

Nice one Dave! I particularly like the dark heartwood of that piece of veneer with its peppering of birds eye.

02/12/2018 04:35:58

Peter, I'm glad you got it mended.

I atomized my mefisto once by placing it on the ground whilst searching for my transmitter. It did a flip broke the boom and pankaked the V-bit. Ha Ha Ha.

Same plane got launched again shortly after the first incident only to turn it's self off as it left my hand on launch. Ha ha ha - that was my lucky day. It did a big circle of about a kilometer and then landed without scraping a wingtip!

All the best.

01/12/2018 03:01:29

Me again Peter. I just had a peek at your blog. I found it interesting. I noticed that you built your machine three and a half years ago. Is your hammer still intact and flyable? Phil

01/12/2018 01:54:24

Hi there Peter. I fully agree with you on the first two points, I can see that you have enjoyed flying this model too.

I would'nt fly my hammer with a skin full of lead and I am trying to discourage Dave. You have loaded it up and paid the price - wing flutter! I hope you didn't break it.

Unfortunately you have introduced that hypothetical moulded glider into the conversation to bring everything into perspective! Which it doesn't. It adds confusion to what is a simple build.

I think that almost every pilot that flies a blejzyk will enjoy the experience. Lets leave it at that.

Dave seems to be a clever bloke, why not let him experience the plane in it's well refined form just the way it comes from Poland. He may well find, that he is happy with his model just the way it is. I certainly do.

I thought about adding some carbon to my wing recently simply because it has been hit by a 2.5m 3kg Wedge Tailed eagle. I know that the black stuff can add a bit of stiffness, but decided against it. The reason I didn't do it was that I couldn't remove the fibreglass and poplar skins to put the tow where it needs to be. (on top of the blank).

Just for the record I own a few composite models and enjoy flying those too. They are good at doing what they were designed for, but make a god-awful noise that disrupts the serenity of many slopes or paddocks that would otherwise be alive with the sound of birds chirping and friendly conversation.

I have been flying the clappers out of my hammer for two or more years now. Probably about ten hours fly time per week in strong wind. The wings that Artur makes are the strongest of their type and they are almost unique with only one other manufacturer using the poplar veneer.

If it is flown within it's limits it will never flutter. It flies as straight as an arrow. It penetrates in 40kts without ballast. How often do you get that kind of wind? As it comes from Poland I believe a good pilot could enter it into a competition and get better scores than the majority of pilots with a superior plane. A plane, by the way, that costs ten times the money, that will only out-fly a hammer if the pilot has skill.

All the best from Tasmania, Phil..........I don't know if you have seen mine fly so you can go here to have a peek.

29/11/2018 09:52:05

That's great Dave, I like that you like that black poplar veneer. I have had some beautiful wood on some of my blejzyks. The Serafin had a bit of birds eye and a few tiny knots it the grain.

My eyesight isn't too good so I tend to go for brightly coloured covering film these days, but like you I always bite the bullet and go for water based varnish. You can add food colouring or fabric dye to give a transluscent colour as well. I added red ochre to the varnish for my hammer.

The hammer is worth building carefully and balancing well. If something is in doubt do it again because when you get to the field or the slope, you only have to point it into the wind and it will take off out of your hand with a gentle toss. Hammer is a misleading name for the model when the wind is light because it will fly at jogging speed all day. Winds as light as 20km/h are fine once you get used to it. You probably have more experience than me so forgive me if I am selling ice to the eskimo. I would wait for a day 25-30km/h to maiden the model and I reckon 30-40km/h is where it comes into it's element when weighing 1.3kg

I will put a ballast tube into mine in the near future too - probably just a 350mm length of 13mm aluminium tubing I reckon. That way I can just use a bit of cheap rolled iron bar for my slugs. That will give me 320 grams of ballast.

All the best with your build Dave and if you get a chance, click on the link I pasted above to see the photographs I took for you today.

All the best, Phil

29/11/2018 04:24:33

Hi Dave. I apologise for leading you astray mate. I was working from memory last night

I got the wing out today and had a closer look. I need to do a quick repair so it wasn't such a big task!

I have taken photos and they show a lot of repairs - I have done several hundred hours on this plane and it is still as stiff as it was when I bought it. The photo's show just how durable the wing is. The poplar skin underneath was hit by a Wedge-Tailed Eagle, in case you were wondering. The chunk that I repaired on the leading edge (with 2pac polyurethane foam and carbon fibre) was where Hammer bumped into my car when I was trying to land!!!

Back on the topic now. The torch thing has revealed the joiner box, it extends 450mm into the wing and (from memory again) consists of two shear webs of 1mm ply with some poplar cap strips top and bottom.

There are some tows on the top of the wing as shown in the photo with the diagonal black tape, but it is difficult for me to detect the same tows underneath - your guess is as good as mine.

Mine also has a lightweight woven cloth under the poplar, but I am unsure if it is covering the whole blank.

I have seen the blejzyk hammer flying no ballast in 80km/h wind it will still move forward and is very controllable with low rates. However I would not say it is 'fun' to fly un-ballasted in these gale conditions. For what my opinion is worth, I will say that I would be more than happy to put 250g in a tube under the wing and give it a good caning. I reckon the wings would handle the added stress without too much bending. But once again, it is just my opinion.

In addition to my 'opinion' I have seen blokes add 600g to the model and fly it insanely fast, but with weight comes momentum and any mistake can become a disaster in the blink of an eye. A survivable 'rough landing' will become total disaster with disintergration when the fuz is carrying all that weight & momentum.

This forum wont let me post the pictures I edited for you - Sorry. Phil

I have posted the pictures here in post #8

28/11/2018 16:31:28

Hi there Dave. I have never taken mine to that level. I have given it a good 'hammering' though - to coin an old phrase.

I do know that there is a fair bit of tow in the centre section of the wing because I can see it if I look at the surface on a low down level. You, can probably see where it is by shining a super-bright LED torch through the wing to reveal the black tow. I would imagine that there is a length top and bottom along the thickest part of the section from root to tip also. It might be ok to add more, providing you don't interfere with the servo wire channels or servo pockets. Nor would I align top spar with bottom. Stagger the spars a little if you are going to use one on top and one underneath. 6 x 1mm might be ok, but if I were going to do all that mucking around I would go to hobbyking and get a bundle of their 6 x 2mm pultruded bars - I think they come in 750mm lengths. These carbon bars are the same as the ones they use in the bix3.

I have done a similar reinforcement on several foamies in the past. I just tape a straight edge onto the wing, and use my dremel with a router bit of the right width to make a groove. I always use polyurethane fizzy-glue to glue the pultruded rod/bar into the slot (gorilla glue is one such product). Polyurethane glue gives a flexible bond with the epp. and should not melt the polystyrene either.

One down-side to cutting a slot into the wing surface is that it will probably decrease the resistance to twisting that the underlying fibre-glass gives to the hammer. Mine has p.s. foam, then a fine cloth and then the poplar.

Here is a link to an amatuer video of my beloved hammer. Cheers, Phil

02/06/2018 08:46:12
  1. O.K. Its time to free up the hinges. Clear the cereal bowls from your workbench and prepare your mind for an arduous and frustrating job. Meditate for half an hour - in your minds eye you should see a mega slope with lush grass and plenty of women retrieving the models - then wake up and get a grip of yourself.

  2. Get a half dozen 1/4 sheets of aluminium oxide or garnet sandpaper of good quality, that's four pieces of ~ 120 grit and two pieces of 240 grit for each wing. Fold the quater-sheets into thirds so that they have two rigid abrasive edges.

  3. Gently move the flap/aileron down a bit to observe the hinge line on the top of the wing. Look before you even think about sanding. Look again after moving the surface up a little and this time look underneath into the groove to see where you will strategically apply the hard edge of the folded sandpaper by using long strokes.

  4. Start sanding the hinge line, but do not sand the kevlar tape. This is a very difficult and frustrating task because the wood is hard but the kevlar tape is very soft compared to the poplar on the top surface and even the balsa below. The sandpaper gently works it's way through the wood but you can potentially sand through the kevlar in four or five strokes. With this in mind, sand for a moment, dust it off, take a peek, then start again working slowly and checking all the time to see the effect on flexibility of the joint and the surface deflection. STOP before you go too far. If you think "I might need a bit more travel, I'll just give it another go" then quit that stinkin'- thinkin' and refer to your notes from stages 2 and 3 about minimum/maximum travels. At this stage you have earned a beer, so take a break.

  5. The hinges will never be easy to move. Learn to accept this fact. Factor this knowledge into your servo selection. You don't need to spend lots of money to get a good servo, but you will need to do a bit of research on them. You should really use micro 17g mg servos or 25g thin wing servos with mg for the job. I would go for a servo with at least 4kg rating. You definitely need a good bush or bearing inside the gearbox as well because some servos just rely on the plastic housing, those servos will work well for a while and then they will expire before their 'use by' date.

  6. Remember that the hinges will improve with age, or as Mr. Humphries said in the TV series "are you being served?' - "They'll ride up with wear".

  7. Finally and very importantly also. Don't brush your varnish into the hinge line underneath the wing or on top for that matter. It will definitely muck up all your hard work. On that topic also; If you are covering your wing with film, I would suggest using two pieces of film top and bottom. Use a long straight edge to cut the film so that you can start 1/16" away from the hinge line and go from there. leave the hinge line uncovered then when you finish covering use some water based paint and an artists brush to hide the gap. Thin it down by 20% so that it doesn't gum up the groove.

  8. Give yourself a pat on the back because your live hinges will last a good while and ensure accurate centering and no slop. Conbine this with their ability to reduce drag and know you have a slick glider. My hammer is very quiet even in a zoom.

Thankyou for reading my guide to blejzyk live hinges. All the best, Phil Elliott

02/06/2018 08:44:15

Greetings earthlings

I just ordered a new set of wings for my hammer. While I was at it, I ordered a Pirat and a Duo for the summer breezes. Yes, we get a real summer down here in Tasmania! Also we make proper beer, unlike you poms. And don't get me started on the cricket.

On the serious side of things, The hammer. I think it is good to take some time working on those stiff hinges. It is a very difficult task for someone like myself that was bought up on a diet of rib and spar wings with 20% thickness and a balsa trailing edge.

Loosening up Arturs hinges is a serious challenge for us all. This task in itself can make or break the model. Here are my thoughts on doing the job.

continued on next post.....

  1. Think about it for a while, explore the architecture of the joint and don't do anything for a week or two.

  2. Don't look at the flap as just a flap that goes down, even if you intend using 5mm reflex up travel, think again. If you decide to mix aileron to flap later on you need to prepare for that deflection before you even strike a blow on the hinges. Try to think of your flaps as ailerons that travel even further down.

  3. It is my not so humble opinion that the hammer can have too much flap travel. I have stacked mine a few times because on a windy day, no ballast and a poor (too high) approach I have panicked and pulled the throttle stick right back (flaps down 60 to 80 degrees) every time I do it the model is disturbed from its gentle glide path and stalls - even with the linear proportional down elevator mixed in. This is because ( I think in my tiny brain) that the mixture of down elevator should be exponential and not linear. I need to use a five point curve on my mix and not a three point straight line. I think I just confused myself, so don't feel bad if you didn't get that. To remain on the safe side, if you are going to fly the model at it's minimum weight as I do, then plan on about 25-30 degrees down travel. This will pull the model up in no time and maintain a good glide path if mixed with 7% of linear down elevator in the mix.

  4. Don't touch the wing yet. think about it a bit more. How are you going to make those sturdy hinges bend? They don't flex when you get the wing, so you have to do something to free them up. This is the really hard bit. Eat a stack of weet-bix for a few days to strengthen up your fore-arm and shoulder - those muscles will come in handy next week when you commence the work.

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