Here is a list of all the postings John Duncker has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Fresh petrol in a lawnmower every season?|
Petrol with ethanol in it does go 'off'. with time.
So if it were mine I would run the tank low and the carb dry before storing it for the winter. Top the tank up with fresh fuel in spring and good to go.
Petrol with ethanol and mixed with 2 st oil is bad news if kept for more than 6 months. Even if you drain the tank dry and empty the carb the residue seems to cause some sort of crystals to form and these block up the carb jets.
I don't know of any magic nostrum that works.
|Thread: OS 25 FSR- Equivalent|
I had very good experiences with MDS engines.
I had 3 38s one in a 3D model and two in helis run them on 5% run them in and set the slow running jet CAREFULLY making tiny adjustements as it very sensitive.
A 148 iand a 218 both in 3 D models. I found them to be powerful reliable and throttled well.
Once you got the needle setting right I left it alone, it was flick and fly. I got into trouble from the club instructor safety officer who said I set a bad example by not doing a nose up test.
2 clicks richer in winter and you were good to go
Even the much maligned 40 can be a good engine but the early ones needed some silicone sealant under the carb and again some running in.and careful slow running ajustement.
There were some lemons I came across a couple of 78s that I could not get to run well and I have no idea why.
But expect them to run streight out of the box on high nitro fuel and you will be rewarded with a Mostly Dead Stick Door Stop.
Will MDS or any of the other IC engine manufacturers be resurrected I think it unlikely as the model business has gone electric.
Edited By John Duncker on 30/01/2019 14:38:46
The popular Club 2000 pylon racers use 25s as they are going electric there will be engines going spare.
two possible contacts are Michael Toyer on: 01933 675378
and RadioActive 01905 776073
|Thread: Hinge Fixing?|
Maybe I should make it clear that the cyano is added to the drilled hole.
I like fuzzy mylar hinges.
Wax crayon on the hinge like both sides
When they are in the right place drill from underside with a 1/16th drill trying to stop before it showed on the top side.
Apply one drop of thin cyano.
Clip the tip off a cocktail stick. Apply 2 drops of thick slow cyano and push in till just through the hinge.
Clip the excess off and push in till flush.
The OCD amongst us can cover the end with a tiny piece of film.
At the club I used to fly with it was a safety inspection item that all mylar hinges were pinned.
|Thread: Flap Servo Set Up|
If you are setting up flaps on a larger faster model and are using 2 or more servos then you do want to over spec the servos used and digital is my preferred servo type.You also want to think about the 'mechanical advantage' you can gain by using the full travel of a servo.
Having one side of a flap command blow back while the other is fully deployed is a BAAAAD thing to have happen.
Not so likely on a slow high winger but a REAL possibility on a 20 lb Starfighter.
|Thread: How long have you been in the hobby?|
62 years with some short breaks. Even now living on a sailboat in the Caribbean I have a Zagi which gets a litttle exercise on a sand dune facing the trades every now and then.
I have flown control line, FF and radio.
Indoor rubber power was challenging as was my F 104 Starfighter with it's gas turbine.
I have flown ARFs but like to build from scratch as I get a bigger kick of seeing my own creation flying.
|Thread: BAe Hawk T1 micro pusher parkflyer|
Time for a mini bungee methinks
|Thread: Rubber power|
One of the key things is to get better rubber. It is quite a while since I played with this but rubber varies a LOT.
I believe the competition guys speak with reverence of a batch made in 1999 and carefully hoard their supplies.
Pirelli was rated much higher than Dunlop.
|Thread: Motorcycles and model flying|
Some time ago I was flying at a French flying club about 10 miles from Geneva. I met a French teenager who was flying a 40 powered delta which he had built himself based on the Pete Russel 363. He lived in Geneva and carried the delta in a rack made from wire coat hangers and a little foam. The rack was fitted to one of these little 50 cc mopeds French 14 year olds can drive. The delta had retracts and a removable fin
Nose down and tight to the rear wheel it was a neat job of carrying quite a large model.
|Thread: powered beginners glider(with wheel under fuse)|
Believe it or not you are more likely to get damage to the model if it has a wheel. In a heavy landing the impact forces will be concentrated on the wheel axle mounts and damage is more likely than without the wheel where it gets spread more evenly..
The only time I used a wheel was when getting aerotowed.
|Thread: Famous model flyers|
Wow I had no idea there were so many pop stars and racing drivers who flew toy planes
|Thread: Aeroloop model retriever|
A crossbow with a fixed spool fishing real works well to get a line over the tree limb..
Use the monofilament line to pull a stronger line over the tree .limb
As a last resort and with the tree owners position pull a wire saw over the limb and cut the sucker off.
|Thread: Keeping Warm In Winter Weather|
For visits to Ivanhoe Beacon when it is cold.
Full ski gear including googles. No flesh is exposed. Fingerless gloves with sheepskin mitts when not flying.
But the most important thing is a transmitter shield. Basically an open box with a hole for the aerial which protects your hands from the wind.
|Thread: model recommendation|
A Focke Wulf TA 152 makes a really nice flying model. Extra wing area helps and the longer nose makes getting the CG right.
I don't think anyone makes a kit but there is a plan here **LINK**
Also a nice change from all the Spitfires and ME 109s.
|Thread: Control surface movements|
I had a Flair SUnrise which I flew a fair amount in light thermal conditions. I found it beneficial to have a fair amount of expo on the rudder and some on the elevator to make it easy to fly it smoothly while thremalling but still have enough movement when it was needed. to get it down at the end of the slot
|Thread: Fire extinguishers|
If you can run a hose to your workshop you should do so. Tap and hose by the door. Spray nozzle on hose with trigger.
Water will extinguish most fires after all it is what the fire brigade uses [ mostly ]
As a back up I would have a powder extinguisher preferably at least 2 kg. One thing nobody says when faced with an established fire is " I wish I had a smaller fire extinguisher. "
But everything anyone has ever said about powder making a mess is true. It is effing unbelieveable. It gets everywhere.
|Thread: Recommended First Balsa Kit|
An ugly stick is an easy build and not boring to fly. But I don't know if there is anybody in the UK or EU kitting it.
You can get a variety of short kits in the USA but carriage and duty will be significant.
Free plan here **LINK**
and cut your own bits.
|Thread: cutting foam|
No not sure at all. Some came from Sheffield insulation and some came from the skip at a building site. Mostly blue but some pink and some green.
It was closed cell and much finer than typical styrofoam.
It cut nicely and cleanly once I got the temp right.
I new the fumes were bad news so always had some positive ventilation going.
I used nichrome wire bought at the nats from SLEC MANY moons ago.
Power from a knackered 12 volt battery fed continiously by a 10 amp battery charger of the brainless variety. [ This is important otherwise you get voltage fluctuations as the brain varies the charger output..
On a 30 inch bow I used some extra wire and moved the connector along the extra to control the cutting wire heat. I had a bow with the tension produced by large elastic bands. This maintained tension as the wire lengthend on heating. I also had a 10 inch bow for small stuff that I could use one handed.
Much preferred working with urethane foam [ blue ]
Mostly used to build 12th scale combat and Zagi type wings.
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