Here is a list of all the postings John Duncker has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: cutting foam|
No not sure at all. Some came from Sheffield insulation and some came from the skip at a building site. Mostly blue but some pink and some green.
It was closed cell and much finer than typical styrofoam.
It cut nicely and cleanly once I got the temp right.
I new the fumes were bad news so always had some positive ventilation going.
I used nichrome wire bought at the nats from SLEC MANY moons ago.
Power from a knackered 12 volt battery fed continiously by a 10 amp battery charger of the brainless variety. [ This is important otherwise you get voltage fluctuations as the brain varies the charger output..
On a 30 inch bow I used some extra wire and moved the connector along the extra to control the cutting wire heat. I had a bow with the tension produced by large elastic bands. This maintained tension as the wire lengthend on heating. I also had a 10 inch bow for small stuff that I could use one handed.
Much preferred working with urethane foam [ blue ]
Mostly used to build 12th scale combat and Zagi type wings.
|Thread: pop bottle cowls|
I have had success with both thick and thin.
Generally used 2 litre Pepsi [ burp] bottles.
Used on my 12 scale combat models.
|Thread: Epoxy or Polyester Resin|
Getting the right ratio is critical It may be different by weight or by volume. I have used graduated syringes and more recently electronic scales.
Understand the difference between laminating resin and finishing resin.
Do not thin it. If you want a runny consistancy warm the components before mixing.
The strength comes from the carbon fiber not the resin. Use just enough resin to fully wet out the tows.
Wear protective gloves.
Do not dry sand it NOT EVER.If you do you are likely to become sensitized and have severe allergic reactions to epoxy. Ask me how I know this.
|Thread: Propellers for Mills .75|
My Mills 75s original and replicas always seemed happy on a 7 x 4 preferably a Master or Grey Graupner to reduce the chance of bending that vulnerable crankshaft.
As for centralising the prop I used a bit of silicone fuel tubing TOP TIP if the prop wont start on the fuel tubing cut a longer piece that will overhang the propshaft thread. Push the prop on and cut of the excess.
|Thread: SBUS SERVOS|
It can actually simplify installation and set up in large models where you have multiple servos on the same flying surface.
and you have a nose wheel steer servo which needs to be deactivated when the gear is up.
and so on.
|Thread: Building board|
Consider a slab of marble try a salvage yard for an old bit of bedroom furniture or a damaged piece of granite worktop. This will not warp unlike MDF or ply.
Glue on cork tiles and you are good to go.
That is what I did.
|Thread: Low wingers,very twitchy,recommend expo.YES/NO|
Definitely get a more experienced club member to have a fly and see what they think. A slightly rearward CG can make it twitchy.
If they pass it as fit to fly then expo is one route to go down. On a Futaba I did not find it worth while to go for less than 30%.
Another thing to try is setting low rates elevator and aileron to 60% and try this at altitude. NB It is worth having a helper to move the switch while you concentrate on flying.
|Thread: Prop Life?|
I was always led to understand that nylon props needed to be boiled before use then every few years.
Back in the days when I flew CL combat this was certainly true.
|Thread: Fleet Control Systems|
If contemplating flying a 35 mhz Fleet unit in company it is a good idea to take the two adjacent pegs. I do not know if we just saw a few rogue sets but some did have a 'splattery' RF output.
|Thread: Engine advice|
My 1/4 scale Stampe flew very nicely on an OS 120 Surpass 4 stroke. Take offs from our grass strip were scale like on half throttle. The only time I can remember using full throttle for long was when I made it knife edge.
Unless your Bucker Jungman is a real lardass a 180 4st should do the job just fine.
|Thread: IC Models-Should we be worried?|
I have just w read the report on a RC flying competition with 128 entrants and a ladies class with 12 entrants. The overall winner was 15 and the ladies 11.
OK it was electric drone racing but there was lots of young interest there. They reminded me of the sort of people who used to fly control line combat in the 60s and 70s. You know the days when you got 128 entants by April every year.
Will todays drone racer still be flying drones in 10 years time ? Probably not. But we still have young RC flyers they just are not flying Junior 60s Jackdaws and Robots.
|Thread: Binding wire for solder joints|
Boats should be wired with tinned copper wiring. If passing a chandlers drop in and check there off cuts box.
A foot of heavy battery cable should do a few carts
|Thread: ABC pinch on new motor|
A hot air gun on the cylinder will make it easier to hand start.
As others have said it is really important to get them up to running temp ASAP. short bursts of full throttle and a few seconds of slow running. It is important to use a smaller than normal prop.
|Thread: Some nice engines for sale|
Total pussy cat to hand start although a leather glove is always a wise precaution.
|Thread: Building, when does it become too expensive to fly|
I wonder what the most expensive crash ever was.
The B 52 with 8 turbines built by Gordon Nicholls and crashed at the 2004 nats must be a candidate.
He certainly is not afraid to fly expensive stuff.
|Thread: Did you start with ARTF and move to building from kits or vice versa?|
Started with KK 3 shillings and 9 pence kits over 60 years ago, I even got some of them to fly especially when I discovered Pirelli rubber.
For 40 years built almost all my stuff from plans.
It was only in the last 20 years that I started buying kits and the odd ARTF.but still built stuff from scratch.
|Thread: High Start Beginner|
Oooh this thread brings back memories of summer evenings spent in a school playing field surrounded by factories and car parks. I had a fairly wussy bungee but it was enough to get my Flair Sunrise high enough that I could go sniffing for lift off the car parks and factory roofs. 30 minute flights were common place.
I learned a lot about milking the most from weak lift and how to fly as efficiently as possible.
|Thread: Advice required on what to build next|
What about something from the Ben Buckle range.
|Thread: Transmitter Stick Length and Tension|
I fly thumbs on end because a I learned that way 50+ years ago and because I am a 3 D loon who also flies combat.
Most of the great pattern flyers especially the continentals fly pinch with trays. If you want perfect 5 second slow rolls that is the way to go.
When I was flying pattern I was advised to swap to pinch and tray which I did and my scores improved but it always felt clumsy some how so I did go back to thumbs.
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