Here is a list of all the postings Roger Dyke has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Model Retrieval (or not)?|
A long ladder would certainly help. We don't have such a thing and I don't even have a roof-rack on my car. Our field is quite remote.
I love that story. I can just imaging all the perplexed faces. You wouldn't have this Indian gentleman's address would you...….
PatMc, Stuphedd, Tom, John, and Robin,
Thank you all so much for your valued replies. I like the story about the 'axe'. The bow and arrow sounds feasible although it's been about 60 years since I made one of those, out of poplar tree branches as I remember. It's worth a thought though. I live in a very suburban area and have no contacts at all with a 'friendly' tree surgeon. My son had one about two years ago and cost him hundreds of pounds for quite a short time. Their time travelling to and from the site also adds to the costs of course. Then there is quite a walk (there and back) to the location with whatever equipment they want to take. All the ones that I find usually have elaborate web sites. I somehow can't see £20 cutting it.
I am hoping that the wind will cause it to fall down further, but the way it is positioned it looks unlikely.
Really, I'm heartened by that. Thanks.
I had thought of that one, only I figured that the cost of the guys time there and back to the field and his time there would not be cost affective. I built the plane from a plan and accept it may be totalled. I am more interested in retrieving the battery, servos and radio equipment as they are only a few months old (probably about £80 - £100 worth). I have also offered a £20 reward to anyone else who fancies having a go at retrieving it.
Thursday morning I had the unfortunate experience of an unscheduled arrival in the top of a big oak tree. I found the engine on it's mount underneath the tree but it took me about a further 20 minutes to locate the remains of the plane itself. It is embedded within the small branches right at the top of the tree to the one side. I estimate that it is about 40 - 50 feet from the ground and at 74 years old I am a bit old to climb it. The club retrieval pole we have is 7 metres long which of course is way too short.
Is it destined to stay there forever or is there some clever way that it may be retrievable?
Your positive suggestions would be very much appreciated.
|Thread: Small engine tick-over|
I am now reassured that the figures I'm getting for this little engine are fine. Thanks for the info.
Thank you very much for the info and benefit of your experience.
Many thanks for the link. I've had a look and the figures quoted are in general, a little lower than mine. But as the engine in the review is probably a newish one with tighter clearances and slightly better compression than mine I think that my figures are probably okay.
Edited By Roger Dyke on 03/09/2019 17:45:09
John, JD8, Jon, and Denis,
Thank you all for your valued replies. It looks like I'm probably on the money then. That's good news.
Denis: I am using a 9x4 instead of an 8x4 to try to keep the revs and noise down. It also appears permissible on the manufacturers instructions. I remember years ago using the engine with an 8x4.
I have an old Enya 15 III glow engine which is in very good condition with decent compression. I have recently had it all apart, cleaned everything and reassembled. Fixing it to the test stand and running it I have made the following observations:-
Prop - 9x4 Fuel - 5% Nitro (9x4 prop is for intended use)
Max revs - 10400rpm Tick-over - 2900rpm
Question: What would be the lowest reliable tick-over speed you would expect? I have heard people claim 2000 - 2200rpm but if I reduce mine down to anywhere near those figures I cannot rely on that it won't quit.The tick-over I have is solid and even. If I reduce it more it is still stable and even, but occasionally it will quit. It may be after a few seconds or it may be a couple of minutes but it will definitely quit. I have very carefully tweaked the settings but cannot improve from the figures I have.
Am I missing something, or do smaller engines warrant slightly higher tick-overs?
|Thread: OS 40 FP Mixture problem|
Jon: The model has had 21 successful flights to date, starting in April this year. With hindsight and listening to all the posters, I may be guilty of backing off the main needle too much to prevent against quitting in flight. I'm still going to try out a few of the posters suggestions though.
Nigel: Tank and plumbing 100% and checked, and is only a few months old from new. I have also tried the 1/4" fuel tube trick on the needle valve (which seemed to be okay without).. I have used a Model Technics Firepower 5, and a OS #8. I have just sent away for some Enya 3's which I'm going to try. Thanks for the benefit from your own experience.
Edited By Roger Dyke on 30/08/2019 12:29:18
1) I was thinking about trying the 10x7 but thought that it would have similar loading to the 11x6. I do not really want the extra speed from the increased pitch. The 10x6 would give me higher rpm (more noise).
2) I don’t have any 10% fuel to try and do have to send for my fuel by mail order. I’d rather hang back on that for the moment.
3) That’s an interesting idea to limit the throttle servo throw but would rather keep everything as standard as I can.
Denis: An easy one to try (which I will) but don’t want to leave it that way.
Simon: An interesting solution but don’t want to go to drastic measures just yet.
Paul: Both idle and main adjusters are working fine. I don’t think that I have reached the stage yet that I have to remove the engine. I am only talking a minor problem here and if I have to live with it, it’s okay.
Engine Doctor: Thank you so much for the explanation and all that information. I hadn’t given a thought to ‘puddling’. I would think that puddling could happen at mid-throttle too. I rather favour that this could be my problem. I will try out what you recommend. The engine is not spitting fuel from anywhere. In fact it’s the most clean running engine I have.
Cuban8: Thank you for the information.
Braddock VC: I have tried the silicon tubing dodge on the needle valve and treble checked the air bleed hole. Everything okay.
My thanks to you all.
Cuban8: I do realise that the 40 FP is not a complex piece of machinery which will perform perfectly no-matter what the conditions at all throttle openings. It is quite a simple engine and I fully accept that. I was just curious as to why it chooses to 4 stroke at mid-throttle openings. Perhaps I have really answered my own question.
The idle is set perfectly and the idle is no problem. I do realise that the idle speed is set by the throttle opening and not by the bleed screw. I have not tried 10% nitro. I use 5% on all my engines which seems to be fine although I do take your point that it could probably make a difference. I do not have any 10% but probably something to try for the future. Regarding the plug, I am going to change to another type on my next outing.
I can see where you are coming from, but this engine is 'as new' in condition and has been stored well with absolutely no signs of corrosion, rust, flaking, or oxidisation. It's probably the best engine I have for condition.
Thank you all for your very helpful replies.
I can't lower the tank as I mentioned in Cuban8's reply. I could try it without pressure though. I do like the idea from Cuban8 and yourself that maybe it needs to be leaner at full revs. Perhaps I am being over cautious.
I fully understand that the idle has no control over the mid range mixture. I was just pointing out that the engine seems to run absolutely fine at minimum and maximum revs. The fuel is good and quite new (works okay in other models) and the engine has had two new glowplugs in it.
1) Full revs leaned out spot-on. Always check every time I fly.
2) I was thinking about using an Enya 3 and have sent for a couple.
3) Tank height looks fine. It cannot go lower anyway as it sits in the bottom of the fuselage.
4) Hadn't thought of trying it without exhaust pressure. Might try that.
5) Carb needle is perfect.
1) I know that the air bleed idle screw doesn't control the rpm, but it does control the rich/lean idle mixture. It is set okay for a steady idle.
2) Enya 3 glowplugs on order.
Paul: I really like the old OS FP engines too.
John: I really don't want to go to a 10x6 as I'm trying to keep the rpm down.
1) Airbleed hole is perfectly clear. Checked again last evening when I took the carb apart.
2) I may try a 10x6 next time I go flying but I don't really want to go that way if I can help it.
3) I do believe that I can get down to 2000 rpm but prefer a little more.
4) As mentioned earlier, the engine is in excellent condition and the main needle is fine. There is no "O" ring on the needle. Just where the carb joins the body (and it's okay).
I have a feeling that it may be over-propped although the paperwork supplied with the engine does indicate that it's suitable for a 11x6 prop. Also I will see what difference an Enya 3 glowplug makes (if any).
Thank for all your replies.
Hi Alan: Thanks for your reply. The whole engine is spotless. I've had the air-bleed screw in and out several times and the air hole is clear. As mentioned in my previous post, the idle is fine at about 2500 rpm.
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