Here is a list of all the postings Roger Dyke has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
John: I'm not too sure what ten to two is...…. That sounds like a right-angle to me. It's a two blade prop and I've got the prop set at the start of compression at about 11-o-clock (looking at front of model).
Tim: Yes, the carb is a air-bleed type. I have obviously tried different carb openings but the setting I use seems to be the most reliable and optimum setting for starting this engine. I have other air-bleed engines too that start fine on this setting.
Don: Answers to your questions below.
1) 10x7 prop changed from an 11x6 due to grass cutting. Same happens with both. Chosen to keep the RPM down.
2) Manufacturers prop washers holding the plastic spinner.
3) Throttle set just a fraction above idle (like my others).
4) Carb not blocked. Engine was thoroughly cleaned and oiled before storage.
5) Engine does start very easily. It just throws the prop nut regularly.
6) Definitely a ban on starters. I don't mind at all doing it the manual way.
7) The fuel runs absolutely fine on my other engines, and also fine on this one after starting.
cymaz: Yes, I've seen the debate on the 'best fuel' before. The fuel has got to be one that I can obtain via mail order as I acquired my last gallon. There are not too many places that do that.
cymaz: 5% Prosynth. Thanks I'll have a look at that.
I can't remember the problem being common back in the 90's but you may well be right as it may be something to do with the way the engine is timed.
Regarding the fuel. It works absolutely fine in all my engines but I agree, it is very messy. I still have about 1/3 of a gallon left so will be looking to buy some soon. Any recommendations for a fully synthetic?
Martin: I have tried different glow plugs and it's the same with all of them. Regarding the electric starter, I have vowed not to use one since I returned to the hobby as I've had previous experience on the smaller engines with bent con-rods due to hydraulic locks. It's harder work, but I'll stick with the flicking with my 'budgie' stick.
cymaz: It is acting a bit like a diesel. I don't really want to start messing with the characteristics of the engine as back in the 90's, OS sold thousands of these and were well known to be a very stable and reliable engine. Not too powerful, but very reliable.
Thanks for your prompt reply.
No, not using a power panel. I'm using a 1.24 volt Ni-MH single cell so no over-voltage.
That's a great tip and I think I'll try that.
I am back into modelling and flying again after a 15 year lay-off. I've just finished resurrecting 3 of my old models and finished off one that I had half built all those years ago. I have successfully flown the first two and done taxi trials so far with the third. All with no problem at all. By the way they all have IC engines:- Enya 15, Irvine 40, Super Custom 61, and a OS 40FP Max. The problem is with my newest model with the OS 40FP Max. The engine, although made in the 90's has probably only had about 5 hours use and is mint.
After priming it and flicking it over it readily fires. But after one or two flicks there is quite a loud click as it pre-ignites and releases the prop nut. I have tried starting it backwards and the same thing happens. The fuel is 5% nitro and 18% oil (9% synth, 9% castor). It's a bit of a nuisance as I have to unscrew the spinner every time it does this to re-tighten the prop nut. I have tried under-priming it and it doesn't fire, and over-priming it and it's flooded. The glowplug used is a Model Technics Firepower 7. I have tried other plugs but it's still the same.
Many thanks for your thoughts?
|Thread: Here one for all you technical flyers|
I'm with Piers. Good controlability is the key.
Piers: I was not suggesting a slow approach but trying to suggest that that the approach speed in the flare has got to be slow enough so as the aircraft would fail to get airborne again. All a question of balance. Your instructor was spot-on and as you know, it is our objective every time we set up to land. What I was trying to get at was that if the nose is too heavy, more speed would be required to lift the nose in the flare and that would probably be too fast for landing. Then if we took some of the speed off then the nose would drop. It's really a no win situation. Of course, if the c of g is in the right place then my explanation above is void. Just a thought.
Edited By Roger Dyke on 21/02/2019 14:21:49
Make sure that the C of G is okay. And caution about holding the nose too high on a slow approach. Big chance of stalling. Practice it at height first until confident.
From my experience from flying light aircraft my guess would be that it's nose heavy and landing too fast.
|Thread: Hinge Fixing?|
Graham: Good tips. Thanks for that.
John: Thanks for the info. on mylar hinges. I have never used these before. Worth a thought though. I might have a look at those.
Edited By Roger Dyke on 29/01/2019 20:18:50
Trevor and CARPERFECT: Thanks for your suggestions.
Ray: Thank you too. Can you please explain what you mean by "cross drill 1/16"?
What is the general consensus of gluing hinges into balsa wings etc.
I am talking about the plastic flat pinned hinges about 3/4" wide for about 40 sized models.
What is the best glue to use?
Should they always be pinned?
Your thoughts please.
|Thread: Exhaust Cleaning?|
For noise test update please see 'Prop Size' page 2 in 'All Things Flying'. Field trial looks good.
|Thread: PVA and Balsa sawdust.|
My choice is indoor Polyfilla mixed with a little PVA. Works for me.
|Thread: Prop Size?|
Thank you for that, and as a retired engineer who was involved with calibration I fully understand. In fact of the golden rule back then was that if we had any instrument or gauge that didn't have a current sticker on it with the date of calibration, then it should not be used as it is an unknown quantity. We even had our own calibration department kitted out with known 'standards' calibration equipment. Nearly all the instrumentation I see nowadays have no such declaration sticker on them unless it is of professional standard and then comes with a certificate. I am saying all this because I am very aware that off the shelf budget type products are not terribly accurate but are well good enough for a ball-park indication. Us everyday guys just want to do the right thing so I think it's a good thing if we have one or two bits and pieces around us to try and help us keep it that way.
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