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Member postings for Dad_flyer

Here is a list of all the postings Dad_flyer has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: New- 2018 CONCORDE for 4x50mm EDF
17/05/2019 22:46:41

Ooooooooooh!

Thread: Mayfly may fly? August 2018 article
12/05/2019 12:04:25

Elevator pushrod started clunking. I first thought it was binding somewhere, but actually it was the cheapo unbranded servos (post 5). So replaced those with new ones from the 4-Max range. One metal gear, the other plastic.

img_20190512_111309115_hdr.jpg

Much smoother than the others were, even when new, and cheaper too. And noticeably stronger.

Thread: New- 2018 CONCORDE for 4x50mm EDF
12/05/2019 09:13:41

Amazing, awesome, lovely, fantastic.

The 11am Concorde roar was part of my schooldays. Occasionally spotted her coming back on a balmy summer evening, a high and silent dart.

Is this one the 50mm EDF, or the big one?

Thread: SE5a - dogfight double
08/05/2019 09:05:36

The build has stalled rather with the twisted wing issue, and work. The plan is 3s Lipo. A 2200mAh will be overkill, but the weight should be ok. If possible I am trying to avoid specially getting smaller Lipos just for this model, but we shall see how the weight goes.

Thread: Hex Drivers
01/05/2019 21:19:11

I use hex ball-drivers quite a bit at work. The Bahco grey ones have nice handles and don't wear badly - but some have broken the ball off the 2mm size. They don't come in 1.5 mm and smaller, we have Wera for that, excellent but more expensive. I think I was not able to find 1/16th in either Bahco or Wera, so have Wiha picofinish.

All come as singles, so you only have to replace what you need.

Thread: Mayfly may fly? August 2018 article
21/04/2019 22:51:11

yes

21/04/2019 19:41:12

Successfully re-maidened this evening.

20/04/2019 22:01:46

A lovely evening flying, slightly marred by a tree which jumped out on me...

img_20190420_212108743.jpg

the tail...

img_20190420_212155815.jpg

and the nose.

The wings are fine.

I have all the bits, a pot of superphatic and a spare prop.

Thread: Prymol
04/04/2019 19:55:34

Halfords plastic primer rattle can is also recommended by many. I have only got as far as a test piece with it. It sprays well and sticks to the covering when in the workshop. Not sure what will happen in real life though.

Thread: charge lead cable
30/03/2019 08:15:02

Charge leads always seem too thick to me. They tend to match the main battery leads, which are designed for our high discharge currents of at least 10C. Charging at 1C does not need a thick cable. 4-Max have a useful chart of current capacity for different wire size. Check your charge current against that.

Thread: Suggestions for replacing dead Wots Wot
26/02/2019 20:37:53

If Wots Wot is what you wanted, Sussex Model Centre list them as in stock on their web site. Worth a call to check.

Thread: LED Bulbs pt3
26/02/2019 08:50:42

I think you are now ready to test it on the bench. This diagram is now basically the same as page 10 of the manual. If you set the resistors for your safe LED current at maximum voltage then whatever method it uses for brightness control will not harm anything.

Then try changing the brightness. If it uses PWM then this should work. If it changes the voltage then the LEDs will dim more rapidly than you expect, and will go out completely somewhere about 20-50%. I don't quite see how it could vary the voltage, as all LEDs take the same supply pin and the separate switches are on the ground side. I think it therefore does use PWM and will just work for you.

Good luck!

25/02/2019 21:44:15

img_20190225_212545296.jpg

I have put two LEDs on channel 1 and only one on channel 2. I have also shown DW's suggestion of using one wire to the positive supply rather than a separate wire all the way for each LED. Either will work.

From page 46 of the manual it seems to day that it uses PWM for dimming. This is slightly different from the PWM for servo control, it basically switches the LEDs on and off rapidly and the amount of on compared to the amount of off gives the brightness. There is something on page 46 that seems to say that you should not use the servo connections at the same time as the switch channels 11 and 12, although both are used in the diagram on page 10. I have not really read the manual, just skimmed through the pictures...

Thread: New- 2018 CONCORDE for 4x50mm EDF
24/02/2019 21:16:01

I dared to hope I could manage the 50mm version if it came out as a plan.

Must do more flying and learning. And get a bigger shed.

Thread: LED Bulbs pt2
24/02/2019 20:46:40

Diagram A from Plummet will work well. LED brightness is set by the current, and in that setup all the LEDs get the same current, going through one then the next. It would even be ok for different colour LEDs if they are designed for the same current. You need a high enough supply voltage for the sum of the LED voltage s.

Diagram B shares the current between several LEDs. If the LEDs were identical, then the shares would be equal, however the characteristics of LEDs make that unlikely even for LEDs from the same bag. They will take different current and be different brightnesses. The brightest may even blow. To put the LEDs side by side, each column needs it's own resistor to set the current. You can combine them together after the resistors and before the switch.

Thread: Telemetry from FLYSKY iA6B Rx.
12/02/2019 22:04:55
The ia6B I think works with the external voltage module FS CVT01. I have that sensor on a 10ch FlySky receiver. The FSia6 (not B) cannot use the external module, but there is a relatively simple hack that allows you to monitor an external voltage instead of the receiver voltage using the built-in telemetry. I found several descriptions of how to do it on forums or blogs which were all a bit complicated as they tried to use the servo header pins as the voltage monitor connectors. If you solder a wire to the board it is a much easier modification: cut one track on the board and solder on two wires for ground and monitor. It works well and the old version receivers are cheaper and lighter.

Edited By Dad_flyer on 12/02/2019 22:06:15

Thread: PIC Programmer
06/02/2019 21:49:36
There complete Arduino kits, with instructions for mini projects with sensors (and servos!)
I have used the Elegoo 'UNO super starter kits' from Amazon at home and at work. Cheap way to start, and you can actually do a lot with what is in the kit. The supplied wires are not good, but otherwise there are all the parts you need and I think they would get you started well.
For the Arduino IDE, it is sometimes not obvious that you can download a stand-alone version to your pc. It can look as though you need to register and do everything online with the web-based IDE.
Thread: Flitetest Kit Builds
03/02/2019 13:24:29
I made the Flitetest Simple Storch as a quick route back after a crash before Christmas. The hot melt glue method works very well, and as plummet says it does edge reinforcing as well as joints. Take the build video advice on having a well-powered glue gun and plenty of long glue sticks ready.
You are probably right that the shed will be too cold. The build will be quick and pretty clean, so will not cause too much distruption in the house.
Thread: Batt, problem mobile drill
01/02/2019 13:25:30
That's exactly what I was thinking, but have not got round to doing.
01/02/2019 09:40:49
I have the same, a 14v with dead battery. Replaced it a few years ago with a new Bosch as that was cheaper than a new battery.
However, now that I fly, and fly electric, I have batteries and connectors and wiring. It should be possible to use a 4s for a 14.4v drill. The max charge voltage if 12 Nicad is about the same as max for a 4s, but it might be safer using the 4s at 4v/cell not 4.2 max. I should try putting a connector on the drill, then I could use any battery I have anyway. Just now it is snowing and child_nonflyer and child_flyer and I need to be outside!
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