Here is a list of all the postings Dad_flyer has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: FliteTest Legacy|
U/C has a piece of foam board as a spacer and as a squishy breakable bit for hard landings.
A couple of card spacers to help the wing with dihedral to sit well.
Covering is coming along, but white on white so far, so not much to see. The forecast was not too bad so I took it to the patch. It was windier than I had hoped, 10-15 rather than 10 I think. Managed a couple of short and uninformative flights.
Rather sensitive to elevator. Those experienced who were present suggested adding both some exponential and a little more nose weight.
Edited By Dad_flyer on 21/07/2019 20:49:20
Thanks Nigel. Covering is underway, pictures when it is done. For the scheme I have in mind I need to order some red.
Some notes so I don't forget again:
Flying weight 3lb6.5 (1540g) with 3s2200.
Dry 3lb1 (1380g)
Wing 13.5 (380g) - no servos for 3ch wing
U/C 5oz (145g)
Fuse 1lb7 + 5oz nose weight (645+210g)
Power is Airtek Airmax 2830 at 1350kv with GWS 9x5 prop.
The hatch is particularly tricky for covering.
But still, it comes out well in the end.
Now something I really should have done before building.
Even with folding paper over to finish off the cut edges of the foam board in many places on this design, it still has some bare edges. The Westfoam board is also not waterproof, and I would like to add some durability and colour. So the question is, does covering film stick and shrink before the foam in foam board melts?
I have a big roll of Easycoat, which is supposed to stick at 100-120C and shrink at 150C. This is the result of the iron set to 120C
Not a great photo, but there is no sign of melting of the foam, and a nice close covering over the cut edge. I tried turning the iron to 140C, where there is clear shrinking of the film, and not such a neat covering job on a square flat piece, but still no melting of the foam. In the end I even applied the iron straight to the foam without a problem.
Now if I was covering the nice pile of flat pieces that I started with it would be so much easier than getting into all the corners. Or at least covering the tail before fitting the struts .
This model design has extra strength in various places, including the ply elevator joiner, spar strengthener and a ply mount structure for the undercarriage. The design is 2.4mm ply, with laser cut interlocking tabs. I only had 1/8", but it still squeezed in without altering any dimensions to compensate. I put some offcuts to support the corner joins. I used T nuts for M4 nylon bolts, instead of the suggested woodscrews.
I have a rescued wire undercarriage with a plastic mounting plate to bolt on. I got a pair of used 3 1/4" wheels at the Woodspring show.
The wing is convertible for 3 channel to 5 channel control. As I only had two servos in stock, those went in the fuselage and the wing has no ailerons for now. I increased the dihedral to 1.5 times the plan. It is not huge.
With the model all completed, a cg check reveals the effect of heavier board than the plan. To hit the cg I need 200g of weight in the nose. There is a nice space below the motor for it, but I was out of lead. The cheapest and easiest way to buy "heavy stuff" seems to be bags of M6 steel nuts. 100-off is about 200g for £1 or so.
I did weigh the whole airframe and thought it OK, but now I don't remember the weight.
Flew a short maiden from hand launched to belly landing without undercarriage in quite a breeze. It is nice and stable, and penetrates well which was the hope from a heavier model. Turns well on 3-channel too. The extra weight did not make it too quick for me on the down-wind leg. After all, the design is very very light, so heavier than that is still a low wing loading.
The result on the horizontal stabilizer, which in the model is a lifting surface.
All these FliteTest aerofoils have an undercamber section at the tip, where the bottom surface stops. I have often had the paper split at the leading edge fold at the point where the lower sheet stops. You can see I tried strengthening the leading edge with an extra piece of paper. Success here, but not on the wing.
On most FliteTest models the wings are flat underneath and the top surface is a series of straight sections and creases. A few models use the curving method for a smoother profile. I thought I would try to do that with this model. So instead of using the crease lines, I removed the inner paper from that whole section at the leading edge of the wing.
Which gives a nice smooth top surface.
Removing the top paper for curving the nose was a puzzle for a while. It is stuck on very hard. I tried cutting it off with a bread knife, but that hacked at the foam.
Then I realised I could use the other weakness of the Hobbycraft board. It is not waterproof, so gentle wetting of the paper to be removed and it peels off a treat!
Using a lightly damp cloth to get water only where needed.
The paper never looks wet, but after a few passes with the cloth and waiting a little, the paper peels/rubs off easily.
Then it can be gently curved. This takes a little more easing than FliteTest board to get a smooth curve, as the foam itself is stiffer.
There were some angles visible on the outside of the curve, but fine for a chuck-about model.
Nigel, I was planning for doing it as a twin with counter rotating props and throttle differential to try to get better ground handling. However that would mean a power harness and I need to buy wire and connectors.
I had one motor already, so single engine for now.
A serrated bread knife sounds a good idea, I shall try it.
I found it hard to remove more than 1/4" wide strips of foam from the lower layer of paper. In this build a lot of edges are neatened up by clearing a large area of paper and folding over the cut edge of the foam.
To do large areas I scored into 1/4" sections with a sharp knife
Then cut through the foam but not the lower paper with a round-ended table knife. I also had to sharpen this knife during the build as it stopped cutting the foam.
Then peeled away each strip, one at a time
and removed any remaining foam with the table knife
All finished and ready to fold over
That is all much more work than on the FliteTest waterproof board .
Lots of A3 sheets joined together, then cut out to arrange on the board (slightly bigger board than the FliteTest board).
and after a lot of arm ache, a pile of pieces,
Having cut all this with a Stanley knife, it is noticeable that the board wears the blades fast. When the blade gets blunt it tears the foam rather than cutting. I think this was 5 new blades in total, but they were a cheap pack of 100. This pile took a couple of evenings.
I have had a lot of use out of the FliteTest Simple Storch, built from the kit. It was the biggest model they did last year when I needed it. However as a representation of a Storch it has enormous and vulnerable tail surfaces. With many an unhappy landings the elevators don't really act as one.
The Legacy has since come out, very loosely based on the Telemaster apparently. It is basically the same size as the Storch, but It has foam doubled up throughout the fuselage and a much more sturdy tail, with a ply elevator joiner.
The weight is also more, which with the lift that the Storch wing has will be no bad thing.
The first decision was not to use the FliteTest foam. Partly because I would have to get it by post, but also because Westfoam board from Hobbycraft seems stiffer. It is heavier, but again, that may not be bad. Buying by the four sheets it is about the same price as FliteTest. Two important issues are that it is not waterproof, and that the paper does not peel off easily to allow curving the board.
So away I went.
|Thread: Full-Size Lancaster at Woodsprings today|
Child_flyer has spent all evening on the simulator. Suddenly he can do knife edge, inverted and something like a stall turn. Then he practiced the A test manoeuvres.
I shall never catch up now.
I stayed for both days with Child_flyer. The Lancaster visits were fabulous, nicely complemented by the formation flying of the two large scale models. Really gave the sense of what it might be like if there was not just the one full-size left in the UK.
The 60% cubs display was my highlight of the sport flying. Each acrobatic element was not showy, but they flew so beautifully together. 3D slots gave us time to go for tea and visit the stands.
|Thread: dogfight double aug 2002|
Tony's website has the plans and the build articles.
|Thread: Newbie with some starter trainer plane balsa IC questions please.|
In my experience of still being a beginner, vintage style models like the Super 60 are the way to go. They are designed to fly on early radio equipment, three channel, some actually for single channel, then modified to 2, 3, 4 channel. This means that they had to be pretty stable on their own, which corresponds to giving plenty of time for a beginner to think.
Build it yourself is fun, if you have time to complete it before really really really wanting to fly. Everyone says you will crash, if you built it you can mend it.
There will be good advice if you post your progress and questions on this forum.
|Thread: One Man Swap Meet.|
Managed to get both my old little Mayfly and the D Diamond to the patch today. The Diamond is awesome!
A really great flying model, and very stable as the wind picked up later on. Child_flier loves it.
... and arrived at her new home . Rather larger than my other vintage 3ch!
As well as the model, DD also supplied screw and wall plug to keep my car together on the trip back down the M5. I call that real service.
Had a chance to drool over the other models too. If I had more flying skill, I would now have a lot less cash.
Edited By Dad_flyer on 30/06/2019 20:51:25
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