Here is a list of all the postings Phil B has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Foam Wing Cutter|
How do folks veneer the cut foam wings?
|Thread: Junior 60 Rebuild|
Before cutting out oil soaked nose and 10 oz of lead.
Uncovered fuse with nose remodelling started.
Ah thanks for that which confirms I'm on the right track. I was wondering about sliding in the battery under the motor.
|Thread: WW1 linen style covering|
I have found lightweight polyester takes colour well, using fabric paints which are as thin as ink.
|Thread: Junior 60 Rebuild|
This is an old and slightly abused Junior 60. It has seen lots of action. It must have originally been glow, as the front e d oozes oil!
It has had repairs to a broken wing and been recovered in lots of heavy Solartex so all in all a bit of a challenge.
The nose has been modified to mount an electric motor with speed controller and battery in the cabin, not far in front of the cg.
I have removed all the covering, a total of 200 g and there was 300 g of lead under the motor to get the cg right.
I did a test fly before deciding whether it would be worthwhile and I was so struck by its flight characteristics, even with all the extra weight that I felt motivated. So...
All the covering has been removed. I'm planning to cover in laminating film followed by either tissue or lightweight polyester with minimal dope.
I'm pondering changing the nose so that a 3 cell Lipo goes right behind the motor with top access. I'm wondering whether to add an inch to the nose to help with balance without adding weight.
|Thread: How to remove glue from ARTF before recovering....|
One caviat: Agressive solvents can attack the glue joints. The glue is heat sensitive so a warm knife scrapes it off well. Be careful around any PVA joints with heat! Another trick is to iron the area with a tissue interposed to absorb the lumpy bits of glue.
I would then iron on some scraps of film to see the effect. Because the heat sensitive glue flattens under your film iron it may well look fine.
|Thread: Laser Engines - Technical questions|
PS.. Well said Ron. Lovely to have some good sense in one of our debates. Are you standing on Oct 12th?😂
In Britain we have a history of producing excellent products with skilled engineers and high quality standards. So often our best effortd get undermined by managerial or supply issues. I hope that won't happen to Laser Engines. In my view the best British model engine range produced, certainly since John Oliver stopped producing wonderful little diesels. "Come on Jon",! We are all behind you.
|Thread: Precedent Stampe 1/4 Scale|
Yep that's a nice plane. I like the louvres too.
It obviously depends on the plane size. I think 40 g is pretty good. I have some that's about 35 g and some that's 60 g and even the latter feels pretty light compared to Solartex. We have to remember that dope and paint (and fuel proofer?) will probably be more than the polyester.
I am just doing a test, stripping Solartex from the tail of a Junior 60 and replacing with polyester, so I can see what weight difference there is. Solartex is about 90 g per sq m, so I think your 40g poly is likely to come out lighter. Solar film polyester is 60g including the adhesive so is probably lighter but a lot dearer.
I tried my cheap polyester covering with dope on a test piece (old vintage plane rudder). Applied dry using dope just on the edges. When dry, low heat at 100 deg C pulled out any wrinkles, as the polyester heat shrinks like Solartex. Then dope was used to fill the weave. I also tried first covering with lightweight laminating film, followed by doping on the polyester. This was very easy and airtight after 1 coat. 2 coats got the traditional translucent look.
Compared with silk or Flair nylon covering, this polyester is cheaper, easier and better in my opinion.
My next test will be to use Cover Grip (Balsa Loc) with dry polyester and used as an iron on covering. I think it will be feasible to make airtight using dope or latex paint, or possibly Solarlac. Before doping the open structure.
Obviously it's personal preference and I regularly use film, tex and gf covering. I find gf tricky round compound curves and obstacles. You can end up with lumpy resin and creases to be sanded out. Doping nylon edges round corners seems easier to me. Then finally the satin tex finish is nice and I think suits 30s and 40s biplanes well. To each his own.
Also as an aside, I do lots of glass fibre covering, but I have found nylon and dope to be probably better for covering sheet surfaces, especially on this type of model.
The polyester comes from eBay if you search
Plain Habotai Silk Lining Fabric 100% Polyester Material Dress Lining
You will find it. £1.80 per metre 158cm wide, approx 50g per sq m.
I will update tomorrow after some trials.
My second hand Precedent Stampe airframe arrives next week. So I've got plenty of fabric in stock.
Interestingly, Solartex is just dyed polyester fabric with a thin layer of heat sensitive (PVA based) glue.
I've found suitable polyester dress lining material on ebay for about £1.50 per metre in a nice variety of colours. Experimenting to see if it heat shrinks and takes dope nicely.
My nylon dope covered test wing (old warped buccaneer wing), using new techniques for decor stripes.
Solartex is nice stuff to use. I bought up some 10m rolls of old stuck (about £3 per m) from another "half surviving" model shop. Awful colours but I've found if you rub it with mets or acetone and take some of the dye out, you can then spray paint it.
However, I don't think you can beat a good nylon or silk and dope finish for looks and longevity. It does not wrinkle on sheet surfaces the way my Solartex efforts do.
|Thread: Foam Wing Cutter|
I know a guy who uses metal guitar strings about 3 foot long, probably the top E string! He gets the right tension by tuning it! He can play status quo songs while it's warming up! 😜
You need nichrome wire which is high resistance good for heat elements. The longer the wire the more volts you need to give the current needed to get the temp right. Wire available in cheap coils search or go to flea Bay.
|Thread: Foam Model Repair|
In my experience, that area is much too big to fill with DIY expanding foam.
You may be able to use blue foam. Personally I always go for soft balsa block. The advantages of blue foam are lightweight and easy sanding to shape. Disadvantages, unless you fibreglass coat it, it will dent more easily than the original foam.
Whichever you use, cut out enough of the original foam to give some straight edges to bond too. Use PU expanding glue (eg gorilla glue) to bond in your block, which is cut to fit in nice and tight, probably over size where you'll be sanding it back later. If possible wrap the whole repair area with masking tape which will prevent the foam creeping everywhere. Allow to dry and then use knife and sanding block to get the shape back.
I usually finish by covering the affected area with lightweight fibreglass cloth, but you may get away with primer and paint.
|Thread: Repairing a 3D Angel "Jigsaw"|
Thanks for positive comments.
Having fitted the wings, I'm thinking a little more structure is required following the crash that, on hitting a wing tip, ripped out all the central wing joiner section.
First step an extra cross piece / former from 0.8 ply.
I quite enjoy fretting these and don't need a Cad laser cutter yet!
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