|Thread: Sabre made in Belgium|
Wow! That looks great.
|Thread: Henley Solon|
Posted by FlyinBrian on 14/05/2020 20:38:59
I was an apprentice at GEC Henly and saw the production line of the soldering irons - Built like brick outhouses.
My Dad used to have an iron which was a lump of 3/4" square copper on a steel rod with a wooden handle, he heated it in the living room fire. It was just the job for soldering brake cables to nipples on bikes and motorbikes.
What your Dad had would probably have been a 'solder bullet', commonly used by plumbers in 'roof plumbing'. Ie. Flashings etc. It is heated in a gas flame and then used normally, soldering lead or gms flashings.
|Thread: Batteries during no use times...|
Posted by Foxfan on 25/05/2020 11:53:31
My charger is an iMax B6, but the instructions are useless!
Plug in battery and balance lead
select the battery type (lipo, life etc)
cycle through the options with the arrow key ( Charge, Balance charge, Storage, Discharge).
Change the Amps you wish ti discharge at (it's flashing) use the arrow keys.
Select the number of cells your battery is (2s, 3s etc). It's flashing. Use the arrow keys to select.
Long press the start button. Charger should beep and start discharging
Charger will discharge battery to storage voltage and bleep when done.
If you then click on the RIGHT arrow the individual cell voltages will be displayed. Pessing ENTER will take you back to the main screen.
|Thread: Forum members' new models: Let's see them.|
Posted by Peter Miller on 09/02/2020 11:52:28
I think it was Robbe.
We had one in the club,the owner may still have it
Edited By Peter Miller on 09/02/2020 11:53:12
Yip. Robbe made one called 'Charly'.
Here's my latest model. He is yet to maiden, just waiting for less windy days since I made a simple (well, not that simple to make..), round parachute.
|Thread: Plan printing without taping lots of sheets|
Ooooo, that's clever. I will be trying that as well.
|Thread: Mini Camcorder|
I use the Haweye Firefly 1080. The little cube shaped cam. Really light and small. The video quality is outstanding, imo, for this little camera. I have version1.
Mine is double side taped to a piece of ply. This then is simply screwed to a planes horizontal stab with two m3 bolts and finger nuts. All my planes stabs have the relevant holes, so fitting the camera is really simple.
Edited By Torsten Spitzner on 29/01/2020 18:33:42
|Thread: Multi Engine Plane|
Posted by Tom Sharp 2 on 24/11/2019 22:31:57
So the two stroke glow is not dead yet then.
Not a chance. Just mixed up 25 liters of fuel today. May last a weekend or two.
Edited By Torsten Spitzner on 25/11/2019 16:45:59
Posted by Jon - Laser Engines on 24/11/2019 21:02:51
People get very hysterical about multi engine models and there is an awful lot of nonsense out there about what to do if you loose an engine. Frankly, they are a non event if you take a few additional steps vs a single engine model.
The first is to make sure you have everything set up nicely. Are the engines tuned correctly so that each is happy, are the tanks right, is the cooling ok... When it comes to engine tuning dont bother matching top end rpm. Its more important that they are happy. +- 100 or 200rpm is not important. Also make sure the engines are nice and warm before takeoff. A good 15-20 second blast at full power is a good idea and dont just firewall the throttle. Open smoothly to 80% and leave it there.
With engine failures (which are rare if the engines are set properly) the key is airspeed. If you are fast loosing an engine is not a problem as you leave the other flat out and correct with rudder. Many correct the yaw induced roll with aileron and this is really not good. Fly the rudder by hand, dont trim it as you will be out of trim again when you throttle back to land. Once guaranteed to make the runway you can throttle back and 'glide' home.
Beyond that i split my flights into a few categories and have already decided what to do in advance if an engine dies.
1. Takeoff - If im on the ground and an engine fades abort takeoff. Dont try and coax it. If its sick abort and try again.
2. Climb out - This is the dodgy one. If you are low it might be best to chop throttle and land ahead. If there is a hedge or something in the way you might get away with throttling back (this might save the fading engine) and trying to hop over it on the good engine but be on the ball with the rudder and if it starts to swing chop the other engine. If you are higher and with some speed get the nose down a little, gain speed, get the power up and fly back and land. Be very careful and dont expect a decent climb rate or to climb into circuit. Climb just enough to avoid hitting anything. IF that means a flat circuit 2 feet off the ground then do that. Dont force the climb if you dont have to.
3. In flight - Generally if i loose one in flight i open the other up to about 90% power and just keep flying. As i said before, if you are fast enough for the rudder to overcome the dead engine then its a non event. Get too slow, or get lazy with your rudder and its not likely to end well.
That said, if you do get in a spin chop the other engine and recover. Its no different to a normal spin so just get out of it as you normally would.
Most accidents, single or twin, come from poor preparation. Pilot skill is a factor, but you can be a good pilot and still be caught flat footed if you dont have a plan in already in mind when something goes wrong. Equally, a careful pilot of moderate skill will do well if they have considered all their options in advance and made all of their choices ahead of time.
Chopping all the power immediately just turns the model into a brick. Its a far better idea to fly yourself out of the problem than abandon the model to gravity
Edited By Jon - Laser Engines on 24/11/2019 21:08:38
After two successful engine outs in my twin I concur 100% with what Jon has said here.
|Thread: Foam Wing Cutter|
Posted by Phil B on 15/11/2019 08:13:34
I know a guy who uses metal guitar strings about 3 foot long, probably the top E string! He gets the right tension by tuning it! He can play status quo songs while it's warming up! 😜
I have used guitar strings successfully. The thinnest one there is. Simply connected to a 12V battery. Worked well enough over 700mm span.
|Thread: Oodalally - Build Log|
Posted by Peter Miller on 06/11/2019 11:38:11
Or you can sit there with a power fret saw and a scalpel and cut your own out.
And that we call 'scratch building'...
|Thread: Martyn's Chippie RCAF 671|
|Thread: Altitude announcements|
I had a similar issue. I wanted the lady in my horus to announce the time that i was past my set timer every 20 seconds. Thus: plus 20 seconds, plus 40 seconds etc.
But the time she read out did not match 20 seconds.
I fixed that by setting the value in my logical switches to 00:00:19. In other words, at 19 second intervals.
That solved the issue and she now reads out the values every 20 seconds.
Perhaps try setting your value at every 97 feet?..
|Thread: Horus X10 transmitter voltage low warning level|
Mine is set at 7.2v , as i bought it. ( NIB) . I'd rather have it set too high than fall off the voltage cliff..
|Thread: ASP prop driver stuck!|
Glad you got it sorted. I trust that my suggested method was one of the 'entertaining' ones
|Thread: Single servo ailerons|
Posted by Jon - Laser Engines on 14/08/2019 11:52:19
Posted by Brian Cooper on 14/08/2019 10:59:40
Using just one servo on the ailerons, especially on a model like the Acrowot, is very "old school".
It is far better to use two servos, and then dial-in expo and rates to suit. . . There seems to be a mental barrier about using more than 30% expo. . It is permitted to use more if required. . Just keep dialling it in until the correct "feel" is accomplished.
Also, by using two servos, they can be individually "tuned" to get the best out of the aeroplane.
Its not a mental barrier, using excessive expo makes many models extremely unpleasant to fly. 30% is already excessive and i have never needed to use more than 10% on any model i have ever owned. Granted, most are sport and scale, but an acrowot is hardly a twitchy monster.
I would always fly with no expo and get the rates right first. Then, if you feel you must add some expo. If you do it the other way around you end up like a friend did with 60% expo on the elevator of his spitfire which made the model impossible to land. Knocking the rates down by about 30% and removing all the expo made it an absolute doddle to land.
Just dialling in expo is completely the wrong thing to do.
I agree 100%. Expo is a wonderful tool but I think it is used incorrectly waaaay to often.
|Thread: Design & Build Sport Twin|
Coming along nicely. It looks like a winner to me.
|Thread: ASP prop driver stuck!|
This is what I do.
1. Take the motor apart.
2. Thread the prop nut onto the crankshaft, just shy of the end of the shaft.
3. Place the crankcase onto your workbench, resting on the rear of the crankcase ( backplate is removed)
4. Whack, note, whack, the propnut with your carpenter or ball pein hammer. WHACK IT. Tapping is no good!!
5. It might need 3 or 4 whacks, but it WILL come loose.
6. Bearings are cheap, replace both motor bearings as a matter of course.
7. Job done.
|Thread: Old Fuel|
Posted by Lima Hotel Foxtrot on 29/07/2019 11:11:11
Posted by CARPERFECT on 29/07/2019 08:20:11
Good for weed killer
In fact, the best weedkiller I've found!
That's no lie. Bit expensive though, generally. And stains the paving.
|Thread: Switching Brand|
I changed over to Frsky, lock, stock and barrel,with the Horus X10S in January. I went the OpenTX route almost immediately. The Horus tx and open TX are both absolutely amazing. I have absolute confidence in my radio system now.