Here is a list of all the postings Stephen Belshaw has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: What replacement for brushed|
Thanks for all the help and advice chaps, I asked George at 4-Max and he recommended this motor along with a 9 x 5 prop.
These are now inbound, along with a few other bits, so I should have the "Match" up and flying again shortly.
Thanks again Simon, I wonder though if I need 300W - flying it with 250W seemed plenty fast enough and is giving me around 130 watts per pound so does that leave the door open for retaining the 2S set-up??
RC Plane Flyer, thank you for that suggestion I'll have a look at 4 Max and perhaps give George a call.
Simon, thank you for your comments. Having already significantly reduced the weight of the model with the use of a LiPo and re-positioning the battery accordingly I doubt I have any adjustment left in that department so would have to make the difference up with lead. Not a problem as I am already well under the design weight.
Running a 8" x 4.5" folding prop my watt meter gave a max reading of 250W, I queried the use of the Jeti ESC with the UK distributor and received this reply " the JES 350 Eco was designed to work with 6 to12 Ni-XX which is 7.2 to 14.4 volts so should be fine on a 2 or 3 cell Lipo".
This is the airframe:
I have been persevering with a marriage of old and new tech, namely a brushed "Graupner Speed" motor with a twenty year old "Jeti JES350 ECO" and new LiPo batteries. These were powering a Graupner Match airframe, twenty years old but newly built and with a AUW of a tad under 900 grammes (compared to the original design weight of 1.25Kg).
It does run and flies very well (fast) but is obviously overpowered as twice it has snapped a prop in flight with fairly hairy consequences, although the airframe has survived! I'll have to throw the towel in with the old school stuff and, if possible, convert to brushless. So I'll need a direct replacement for the Speed 500 which will have the same dimensions (presumably an in-runner) and a suitable ESC if my Jeti cannot work with the new motor.
This is the current motor/ESC combo:
And this is the battery:
Is a suitable motor available that will slot in to the airframe/existing mounting holes?
Edited By Stephen Belshaw on 12/09/2019 15:58:27
|Thread: Mix not working|
Funny you should say that Bob, after a frustrating few hours I discovered that there were no values entered in Curves! I had assumed copying and pasting was all I needed to do - obviously not and another Taranis lesson learnt.
Because I only program for a new model infrequently, by the time I come to do it again I've forgotten my previously hard earnt lesson!
I have a mix for operating spoilerons via the switch SF on my Taranis X9D which I have been using succesfully. I have copied this mix to another model via my computer and uploaded to the Tx only to find that it doesn't work, flip the switch and nothing!
I cannot see any differnces in the programming and so am baffled as to what is preventing it operating.
Here is a screenshot of the mix:
|Thread: Online magazine viewer problems|
David, I can see the magazine but when I zoom in I cannot move the page around to see all the text, so it is unreadable - either too small or not whole (if that make sense).
Edit: I have just tried another edition and this time it worked
Has something changed in the last couple of days, is it hit and miss, or was I suffering a sudden bout of technophobia??!
Either way, I'm back up and running but it has persuaded me to change to the print edition when my renewal is due.
Thank you David!
Sorry to resurrect an old thread but the viewer is still unusable.
After a reading hiatus I tried to pick up my backlog with the April edition but all the problems outlined by the OP are still in evidence, It doesn't work!
I've paid for a service I can no longer use, what is being done about this?
|Thread: Chris Foss Phase 6 Build|
Thanks for posting that, I had a Phase 6 many years ago so enjoyed reading the build blog and watching it fly - seems with the flaps you can hover it in to a landing!
|Thread: Reviving an old TwinStar|
Thanks for all the suggestions, so my proposed set-up would be:
Motors as suggested by Frank: **LINK**
A couple of 7 x 5 props, CW or CCW or one of each and run in opposite directions?
Wiring of system as here: **LINK**
Run from a 3S LiPo.
Thanks Frank, that's very helpful - pop a ply former in and mount the individual ESC's immediately behind, then form a "Y" lead for connection to the battery I presume?
As I've nothing to lose I think I'll do what Paul did and hammer the motors with a 3S until they give up, then switch to the brushless set-up.
Indeed it does Percy - thanks Frank!
And still running on 35Mghz ..............
Frank, that's pretty much what I thought - that the motors would end up totalled in short order.
I've got 3S batteries, the duo control ESC would presumably still do the job so just fitting new motors would be my preferred option. What would you suggest for motors?
Percy, I've looked for the replacement powersets but cannot find anything for less than the cost of a new kit - am I missing something??
I have one of the original TwinStar's, originally flown on a 7 cell Nicad, and having brought it out of a long hibernation I'm now wanting to fly it on LiPo's. I have put in a 2S which is obviously lower voltage than the original battey, and it shows.
Although the model is around 200g lighter, even with added noseweight, it struggles to get airborne and after one very hairy circuit I'm relieved to get it down in one piece. I'm wondering if I could fly it on 3S, the Pico Duo Control 400 ESC caters for a max of 14.4V, it still has the original motors which are "Permax 400" rated at 6V I think.
Can I just slot a 3S battery in, will the ESC and/or motors take it, would I need to change the props? Or would it be better to swap out the motors?
Edited By Stephen Belshaw on 17/02/2019 16:22:17
|Thread: Installing servos in confined space|
Thanks Simon, yes something I was concerned with getting right before sealing it up.
I programmed my Taranis with V tail set-up and made sure all was centred and in good working order prior to adding the second skin. As a get out for this though the spline fixing screw is accesible through a tiny hole in the root rib and I can prise off the servo arm and re-position if neeeds must, but it would of course be easier to make any adjustments through the Tx.
Trevor, that's a very neat way of doing it and eminently suiyed to aileron/flap/brakes in a wing but, within the confined space of the tailplane I'm working on, just not enouh room.
Edited By Stephen Belshaw on 13/02/2019 21:33:23
Thanks for all the suggestions, here's what I did - probably a combination of all your ideas:
I mounted the servo on 1/16" ply, strengthened around the area with 1/16" balsa and a couple of spruce bits to prevent it twisting, I hot glued the servo in place after wrapping in insulation tape, put a piece of 1/32" ply on top of the servo which made a tight sandwich when I skinned it.
|Thread: One receiver different models|
Thank you David, you have most definitely convinced me to spend more money on receivers!
Yes, supertigerfan, I wish I still had workable 35Mhz sytems!
|Thread: Installing servos in confined space|
That's a method I might choose to use on a wing but in a tailplane that's tight for space it's overly complicated and heavy. I'm looking for a simpler lighter solution.
Edited By Stephen Belshaw on 13/02/2019 09:28:38
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