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Member postings for Stephen Belshaw

Here is a list of all the postings Stephen Belshaw has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Chris Foss Phase 6 Build
15/03/2019 09:39:06

Thanks for posting that, I had a Phase 6 many years ago so enjoyed reading the build blog and watching it fly - seems with the flaps you can hover it in to a landing!

Thread: Reviving an old TwinStar
18/02/2019 07:47:04

Thanks for all the suggestions, so my proposed set-up would be:

ESC **LINK**

Motors as suggested by Frank: **LINK**

A couple of 7 x 5 props, CW or CCW or one of each and run in opposite directions?

Wiring of system as here: **LINK**

Run from a 3S LiPo.

17/02/2019 21:44:50

Thanks Frank, that's very helpful - pop a ply former in and mount the individual ESC's immediately behind, then form a "Y" lead for connection to the battery I presume?

As I've nothing to lose I think I'll do what Paul did and hammer the motors with a 3S until they give up, then switch to the brushless set-up.

17/02/2019 18:12:50
Posted by Percy Verance on 17/02/2019 17:57:27:

There you go Stephen. Frank's solution looks as good as anything. yes

Indeed it does Percy - thanks Frank!

17/02/2019 17:10:02

And still running on 35Mghz ..............

twinstar (1).jpg

17/02/2019 16:59:22

Frank, that's pretty much what I thought - that the motors would end up totalled in short order.

I've got 3S batteries, the duo control ESC would presumably still do the job so just fitting new motors would be my preferred option. What would you suggest for motors?

Percy, I've looked for the replacement powersets but cannot find anything for less than the cost of a new kit - am I missing something??

17/02/2019 16:21:18

I have one of the original TwinStar's, originally flown on a 7 cell Nicad, and having brought it out of a long hibernation I'm now wanting to fly it on LiPo's. I have put in a 2S which is obviously lower voltage than the original battey, and it shows.

Although the model is around 200g lighter, even with added noseweight, it struggles to get airborne and after one very hairy circuit I'm relieved to get it down in one piece. I'm wondering if I could fly it on 3S, the Pico Duo Control 400 ESC caters for a max of 14.4V, it still has the original motors which are "Permax 400" rated at 6V I think.

Can I just slot a 3S battery in, will the ESC and/or motors take it, would I need to change the props? Or would it be better to swap out the motors?

Edited By Stephen Belshaw on 17/02/2019 16:22:17

Thread: Installing servos in confined space
13/02/2019 21:28:30

Thanks Simon, yes something I was concerned with getting right before sealing it up.

I programmed my Taranis with V tail set-up and made sure all was centred and in good working order prior to adding the second skin. As a get out for this though the spline fixing screw is accesible through a tiny hole in the root rib and I can prise off the servo arm and re-position if neeeds must, but it would of course be easier to make any adjustments through the Tx.

Trevor, that's a very neat way of doing it and eminently suiyed to aileron/flap/brakes in a wing but, within the confined space of the tailplane I'm working on,  just not enouh room.

Edited By Stephen Belshaw on 13/02/2019 21:33:23

13/02/2019 18:00:44

Thanks for all the suggestions, here's what I did - probably a combination of all your ideas:

tp servo mounted.jpg

I mounted the servo on 1/16" ply, strengthened around the area with 1/16" balsa and a couple of spruce bits to prevent it twisting, I hot glued the servo in place after wrapping in insulation tape, put a piece of 1/32" ply on top of the servo which made a tight sandwich when I skinned it.

Thread: One receiver different models
13/02/2019 12:05:12

Thank you David, you have most definitely convinced me to spend more money on receivers!

Yes, supertigerfan, I wish I still had workable 35Mhz sytems!

Thread: Installing servos in confined space
13/02/2019 09:27:32
Posted by Stearman65 on 13/02/2019 08:04:51:

Mount the servos on 1 or 2mm ply, which is the usual method in this situation. The ply becomes the top skin of the tail. slot the ply for the servo arm to protrude. Add an inner hardwood frame to the balsa skin to take the screws to hold in place the new ply skin/mount.

That's a method I might choose to use on a wing but in a tailplane that's tight for space it's overly complicated and heavy. I'm looking for a simpler lighter solution.

Edited By Stephen Belshaw on 13/02/2019 09:28:38

13/02/2019 09:25:41
Posted by Frank Skilbeck on 13/02/2019 08:42:46:

Is this the Fauvette? (I've got the plan and it's on my build list yes)

What servos are you planning on using, if you are using the thin wing servos, e.g. Corona CS-239, it maybe possible to fit in a ply mounting plate.

Yes Frank it is, here is a picture of the servo and tailplane:

img_1748.jpg

Thread: One receiver different models
13/02/2019 09:15:09
Posted by Nigel R on 13/02/2019 09:06:50:

"I've either got to stop building models and buying the consequent receiver for each one"

have to ask the obvious question - why?

It was said tongue in cheek!

Ok, the consensus seems to be a Rx for each model, the "faff" of swapping them around and the possible risk of wrong connections/settings persuades me to invest in more receivers.

13/02/2019 07:34:46

Thanks Mark, so it's do-able. Accepting the need for different set-ups, do I just slot the Rx in and set-up/select the new model or do I re-bind it each time I swap?

Thread: Installing servos in confined space
13/02/2019 07:11:17

I'm building a scale glider from a Mike Trew plan which is a V tail "ruddervator" model, originally designed to be activated by pushrods. I'm fitting micro servos in each tailplane instead, I've sourced the thinnest servos I can find at 9mm thick to fit within the fully sheeted tailplane halves which are 13mm at their deepest point.

They will go in but it leaves very little room for mounting options, if I bond them directly to the skins is this likeley to lead to flex of the 1/16' balsa sheeting? Once fitted they will be inaccesible so I want to be sure they are secure and set up properly.

Any suggestions?

Thread: One receiver different models
13/02/2019 06:58:47

I've either got to stop building models and buying the consequent receiver for each one, or find a way of using a receiver in more than one model.

I've googled this and can't find an answer to it, of course it was easy enough in the old days but my models were simple slope soarers and used the same set-up.

I'd idealy like to swap around my X8R Rx, perhaps between an electric model with four channels to a scale glider with seven channels. Or to keep it simple should I only swap between models with the same set-up?

Thread: Forum members' new models: Let's see them.
31/01/2019 08:40:30

Levanter, thanks for the compliment - good luck with your E-version!

The brakes were a real faff to fit, so much so I almost gave up on them! I tried a variety of linkage set-ups but the amount of space in the wing didn't leave enough room for this type of mechanism. In the end I just lengthened the micro servo arms with a cam shaped piece of ply which simply raises the brake to near vertical. I control the amount of travel through the radio, each one on a seperate channel (one had to be reversed so precluded the use of a Y lead), and closure is achieved by gravity/air pressure/tiny magnet.

All up weight of the model is currently 24ozs which is bang on the plan spec, it needs a touch of weight in the nose to balance which I will achieve with a bigger/heavier battery so I'm hoping it will come in at approx. 25ozs which should make it a real floater with a wing loading of 8ozs sq. ft. or so.

30/01/2019 21:13:22

Finally finished building the Sonata after starting it twenty years or more ago!

sonata finished.jpg

Thread: Control surface movements
01/01/2019 15:11:23
Posted by John Duncker on 01/01/2019 15:04:12:

I had a Flair SUnrise which I flew a fair amount in light thermal conditions. I found it beneficial to have a fair amount of expo on the rudder and some on the elevator to make it easy to fly it smoothly while thremalling but still have enough movement when it was needed. to get it down at the end of the slot

Thanks John, good tip and duly noted.

01/01/2019 13:51:58

Hello Simon, many thanks for the prompt reply and a Happy New Year to you too! I'll set as you suggest and see how she goes.

J D 8, I am building the Sonata as a pure glider and not the electric version, hopefully should be a real floater for fying off my old school bungee or small slopes. Relaxed summer evening thermalling sessions beckon!

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