Here is a list of all the postings conrad taggart has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Seems fairly forgiving for a low wing plane thanks to stabliser but I would still be tempted to go for Bixler for a beginner plane or perhaps your second one (high wing therefore very stable / not expensive - parts cheap / prop at the rear so very little breakages upon landing/ no landing gear so belly landing without worrying about breakages, good size so easy to see and orientate).
Re your mustang make sure you check the direction for your servos **LINK** . See the attached video at circa 7 mins.
|Thread: Taranis to Spektrum Trainer.|
Video here showing you how here - might need slight amendments You only need a 3.5 jack (stero) cable Taggarc
Edited By conrad taggart on 25/11/2019 17:00:35
Edited By conrad taggart on 25/11/2019 17:01:22
|Thread: Plane storage ?|
That bit of heat could actually reduce your battery life ! Have a look at his presentation - page 18 or 19 on the attached link - it's a good authoritative read on all things LIPO translated from German **LINK**
|Thread: Irvine 53 issues|
Double post - deleted
Edited By conrad taggart on 09/11/2019 18:16:21
Thanks Frank. I wonder if my needle is an old / problematic design as Jon's needle has 2 o-rings and this is what the last poster , Tom Doyle, some 10 years ago was getting at before I resurrected this thread see below. I guess they would have had to send out needles and o-rings even if the needle part was the same as they both lost their's in flight ...
"Just come across this thread so my contribution is probably too late. I and two clubmates have all had similar problems with Irvine 53s i.e. undersize/loose fitting 'O' rings on idle mixture screw. I was the luckiest in that I noticed the idle screw on my 53 had almost unscrewed itself during pre-flight checks. My two clubmates weren't so lucky, their mixture scews dropped out in flight! All three engines suffered this problem after about half a dozen flights. Interestingly, Ripmax sent out new mixture screws immediately and without quibbling - we got the feeling we wern't the first to experience this particular problem and that Irvine may have had a quality issue.
Sorry here is the o-ring over-haul kit i was referring to above (second link) **LINK**
Jon that's a very kind offer. Just managed to retrieve my plane from storage the needle look like which is slightly different to the one shown in your pic **LINK** (better picture than the one I just managed to take).
Can anybody please tell me which if any (given that the needle is a different design) of the small o rings I should fit and does it simply fit into the brass bit of the carb where the needle came came out of (if it does there was no o-ring present when I removed the needle) ?
Edited By conrad taggart on 09/11/2019 15:59:50
Edited By conrad taggart on 09/11/2019 16:39:02
Roll on 10 years and I seem to have the same problem as above. First problem occurred in flight. Didn't have a new secondary screw to replace the one that fell out so put in a new carb. When going to tune it up I was struggling (it my first glow engine model) I thought the secondary screw moved too easy. Lo and behold asked a more experienced member within my club and he noticed it right away and commented on it. Which brought me here and to this thread.
|Thread: The Gov't, CAA, BMFA & UAV legislation thread|
Know you will all be out rushing to get these **LINK**
|Thread: Where do you keep yours?|
Have a look at the videos to see what the bigger batteries could do to a bat safe box. A bat safe box is only rated for 2 5000 mah 6s batteries - go over this, not hard, at your pearl - see from 3.13 mins
Edited By conrad taggart on 18/10/2019 23:20:24
I currently keep mine in 4 Bat Safe boxes **LINK** within Lipo sacks.
and for charging using the set-up shown in the picture. The only difference being i have a parallel fused charged board within the Bat- Safe boxes to keep leads to a minimum and so i can charge a number of batteries at the same time. The charger also has a temperature gauge sensor, which fits in the box and cuts the charger off should the temperature inside exceed 50 degrees (can be set to what ever you want on the charger).
However, given the number of batteries I have and how dangerous they can be - **LINK** - I am considering buying some ammo 50 cal ammo boxes, removing the seals and storing them outside in a steel type dustbin/ container where no harm can come to anything. This seems to be doable if the attached is valid **LINK**
I will simply bring them in to charge, let them warm up a bit beforehand then place them in the Bat-Safe boxes and charge as before.
Ps I know they provoked the batteries to ignite in the videos and left them fully charged, but the video does show very well how destructive they can potentially be
Edited By conrad taggart on 18/10/2019 18:14:09
|Thread: Filling a Hole?|
B&Q sell it - the clear one is the best - most versatile in terms of matching / not showing. They also do a brownish one
|Thread: Best budget lipo?|
Brilliant batteries but by the way it is best to buy your stuff from the European warehouse - believe it or not postage is cheaper / free over £39 (?) and they have a better range of products than the UK . The Zop batteries even when new have 3 times the internal resistance of other brands ...
|Thread: Crashed my Spitfire now i will repair it|
Looking forward to seeing the repairs and learning from it - the more detail the better. Thanks Conrad
|Thread: Looking to buy a sim...cheaply.|
Neil - check your inbox ...
|Thread: Best Heating Option For Your Hobby Shed|
Dale was it one like this **LINK**
Plus when it got up tot temperature I take it they generally all got back to the same level - burning about .1 litre per hour. The above one states Fuel consumption: 0.1~0.24L but i can't find a range for the 5 KW model. What size space do you heat please and what made you change to a manual control?
Are any of these heaters better than the other and is the KW output any different when they are up and running ?
Seen a few videos that suggest they may be different when they fire up but they default to the same rate once they get pass the warming up stage. Reason why I ask is that I can get an 8 kw one for good money but it would be overkill if that is its true output and I would have to turn it down / off all the time which i guess could be a bit of a problem in terms of its operating efficiency / longevity.
Any insight into the above / potential problems greatly appreciated
How is everybody finding these now that we are nearly a year down the line and what was the best source ? Thinking of getting one before the really cold weather sets in. Thanks Conrad
|Thread: Are all chargers unreliable?|
Spent a lot of time researching chargers. This one has good reliability and is on special offer. It is a copy of a much more expensive I-charger and has the same software **LINK**. The 350 watt version isn't as good / reliable and doesn't have the same firmware - with IR measurement etc.
Being a single charger it is less likely to fail or lead you to junking 2 instead of one. Plus you can add a dedicated power pack for a relatively small sum **LINK**.
If you add a Bat Safe box and put a parallel charger in it you have a nice safe convenient unit looking like the attached **LINK**. The above charger can also have a simple £3.50 temperature sensor attached to it (also sold by Hobbyking) which will shut the charger down if the temperature in the Batt-safe box exceeds the set parameter (the default is 50 degrees).
|Thread: How To Make an Ultra Micro R/C Plane & Beat the New Rules !|
Thought some of you might find the following interesting in light of the new legislation /rules and in particular the attractiveness of model aircraft less than 250 grammes
They also have a fair few planes to choose from .
Edited By conrad taggart on 20/09/2019 17:52:39
Edited By conrad taggart on 20/09/2019 17:54:26
Edited By conrad taggart on 20/09/2019 17:55:22
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