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Member postings for FlyinFlynn

Here is a list of all the postings FlyinFlynn has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Show Us Your 3D Prints
03/04/2020 12:04:32

Infectious pastime is it not! I am curious as to why you used printed A frame components instead of M8 threaded bar that you used for the cross members, I would have thought the bar would be stiffer than the plastic. I know there are designs out there for the plastics of the Mendel printer, because I built one, and if self design was the main motivator then couldn't adaptation of the existing parts, or creation of new designs have satisfied that inventive urge?

Here's mine..used yesterday to make a new lever for my Saitek throttle quadrant that I accidentally snapped off with my chair.....again!



Edited By FlyinFlynn on 03/04/2020 12:05:22

Thread: Composite wing ribs
31/03/2020 11:18:36

"Can you describe the process of getting to the SVG files?"

Sure.... go to **LINK** , the tricky part is knowing which aerofoil you want as there are hundreds of them listed, it is just a case of trolling through the 'Aerofoils A to Z' on the left hand side of the web page. A good place to start would be either the ubiquitous CLARK-Y for a flat bottomed profile or maybe a NACA 0018 for a Zlin 50 / Wot4 symmetrical profile. There is a search box top right if you know the name of your desired profile. Once you have selected one, select 'Send to airfoil plotter' [sic..american site!] from the list of four options on the right side of the page. From there you can change the parameters to suit your airframe - chord and, if required, the thickness. In order to tidy up the finished image, uncheck the data box and change the X grid and Y grid values to be bigger than your profile dimensions or else those grid lines will dissect your profile - it is not a fatal flaw if you forgo this step as you can stitch the resulting sections back together in your CAD software. Once finished you can select 'plot' at the bottom of the parameters section and the grid lines should vanish from the plot picture and then select 'SVG image as text file' between the plot picture and parameters section and you will receive the download......happy hunting.

David...indeed...and as soon as you think you have got it something changes!

You seem to have a large 'elephants foot there on those ribs, maybe your first layer height is too low or it could be your first layer extrusion level is too high!..either way, changing them could impact the part cohesion to your print bed so perhaps the best 'cure' would be to add a very small radius to the bottom of the holes to just reduce the 'squish' right on the edge...that way the adhesion will not noticeably be impacted. can see a couple of holes in the plastic where the infill is supposed to touch the hole walls..this is a touch of under extrusion - I would try increasing the extrusion rate 1% at a time until it stops. This may well change when you change spools.

Edited By FlyinFlynn on 31/03/2020 11:21:40

30/03/2020 09:58:11

Very nice David, I would suggest you add a chamfer to the underside of the lightening holes to combat the elephants foot and add just a touch to your extrusion rate as that last rib looks a mite under extruded.

Barrie - with respect, you don't need to create a spline with 123dDesign. You import the .SVG as a solid, remove any lines you don't want, merge the sections together and reduce it's height to 1mm and export it as an STL - no hand made artwork needed and the size is as set in the aerofoil plotter.

123DDesign has been withdrawn by autodesk but is still available for free to download.

as imported as a solid.jpg

As imported as a solid from Aerofoil plotter

removing the unwanted bits.jpg

Removing the unwanted bits from the aerofoil solid and the 2D sketch parts ( and the block artifacts)

merged the sections together.jpg

Merged the sections together

ready to export.jpg

Reduced to 1mm thickness

cutouts added.jpg

Cutouts added and ready to export as a 3D .STL (this is actually a different profile I had made earlier to save me the work putting in the cutouts to the clark-y profile...but it shows what is possible.)

This only really works for a parallel chord wing as scaling the profile will alter the spar cutout sizes... if you want to build a tapered wing then you will need to buy profili or somesuch application....

29/03/2020 11:56:18

You can obtain .SVG's of actual wing profiles from You can input various parameters and then plot your profile. These can be converted to .STL's in 123D Design and then uploaded to your slicer.....the biggest problem is finding the right profile to start with from the hundreds that are available....

Thread: Insanity seems to be setting in
21/03/2020 11:35:09

Non of this 'stock piling' will feel strange when you are prohibited from going outside your front door by an overzealous official.

People with cats but without gardens need cat litter and if they are prevented from going out to buy some when they need it they will have a problem. How many sacks of cat litter do you think your average supermarket stock? I doubt it will be high on the list of priorities for replenishment at the supermarket.

Oranges and satsumas are rich in vitamin C. Vitamin C supports the immune system. People will be eating more of these items...seems obvious to me.....

Thread: Probable scam?
06/03/2020 09:54:01

Jim Browning spends his time uncovering the scam merchants and making youtube videos of his antics for anyone interested.

Thread: Loads must go
23/02/2020 13:11:59

Hmmm, bit of plagiarism perhaps? The exact same post was made by Brian Cooper on 9/7/2019!


Maybe Tim...but it is still funny.

Thread: FoamBoard Model anybody?.
11/02/2020 10:57:17

I'd recommend one of these


Really simple and cheap to build and great fun. really slow, high alpha passes are just sublime!. Also perfect for combat. Plans here

Thread: Cheap Chinese Laser Cutter
08/02/2020 11:32:21

You should be aware that 1.1h introduces self squaring gantry homing at the expense of variable spindle/laser mode on the cheaper versions of the cnc shield. what this basically means is that if you have bought and used one of the chinese clones of Protoneers 'cncshields' you will not be able to use laser mode or control the laser intensity using the spindle speed commands. more info in the release notes for grbl on github. If that is going to be a problem for you then I would suggest you download ver 1.1f and go with that. Servo control was added to GRBL around 0.9i, or at least some versions of 0.9i so you may have just been unlucky with your version, your servo should work fine with 1.1f

Thread: Chinese suppliers
03/02/2020 13:04:50

Try editing that one again don

Thread: Show Us Your 3D Prints
01/02/2020 13:15:22

Ummm. I thought I had already uploaded this -


but apparently not... this is a triangular balsa stripper with two dies, capable of creating 6,9 and 12mm triangular strips from square block. It is not my original design, I just made the storage for the two loose dies.

Should be available on thingverse

Thread: Cheap Chinese Laser Cutter
28/01/2020 13:48:16

That looks interesting, with the inclusion of the fan it would appear to be of a higher power than the run of the mill offerings, but bear in mind it is Chinese, so perhaps the specs might be a tad optimistic. Best order one before the prices go up on Saturday frown

Thread: I hope to assemble a laser cutter/engraver
19/01/2020 11:33:49

For "Its a very strange way of operating" read 'cheap'. Ha'penny worth of tar and all that.

Treat yourself to some drop in hammer nuts

Thread: Dash cams
17/01/2020 23:27:15

Pete're a braver man than I Gunda Din!

Sorry comment on decent dash cams...I only use a cr ap one

Thread: Cheap Chinese Laser Cutter
17/01/2020 23:17:23
Posted by Andy Joyce on 17/01/2020 16:46:41:

Flynn, do you find air-assist improves the cut quality? If so what flow rate are you using.


I have a small 1.8litre per minute aquarium pump. I cannot say if a bigger pump would be better, it seems to blow away the smoke and dust, but you do need to get the nozzle very close to the laser spot. a desk fan also does the job, but from further away! I haven't really done enough to be sure what is best in the air pump department.

15/01/2020 17:07:59

To answer my own question it appears that -

>>>>>>>M4 / M5 commands shouldn’t be necessary between cuts because G0 is a non-cutting move.

This is only true for grbl 1.1f/g.

Thread: I hope to assemble a laser cutter/engraver
15/01/2020 16:13:38

Well done so far....that's a nice neat cut. As to fitting it to a base board I would print up some feet with a screw hole to fix the feet down but as you don't have a printer I guess you will need to use 90 degree brackets, ether to replace the existing feet or to attach the existing feet to the base board.

I would use something around 12 mm ply - or 20mm MDF desk top, or 38 mm MDF kitchen top - whatever you can lay your hands on really, Being absolutely flat is not a prerequisite.

Thread: Upgrading Windows7 to Win10 for free
15/01/2020 15:18:08

For those interested in obtaining the benefit of quicker data transfers might like to think about the data bus that they are connecting their SSD to. It is true you can just buy an SSD to SATA adapter, slot your new SSD in and away you go....but if you do that you will probably be missing out on the SSD's potential. If you use the SATA bus you should remember that the maximum data throughput for the ubiquitous SATA rev2 is 3Gbits per second , which is about 300MBytes per second.....about the same as the later hard disks. In order to achieve the higher rates you hear about you need to fit the SSD to a SATA rev3 socket, this has double the throughput of a SATA rev2. Older motherboards may not be SATA 3 compliant. For much greater speed increases, later motherboards have a SATA Express port which utilises the PCI bus as well as two SATA channels There are also SSD's that just fit straight onto the PCI data bus, either directly, via an adapter, or via a different form factor, like M.2 where 4GBytes a second are commonly achieved. That's a ten fold increase over the best HDD and SATA rev2..

In can be a mine field so make sure you know what you want and understand the benefits you could expect.

No doubt there will be someone who will say "I fitted mine to a standard SATA socket and the speed increased no end" which I would reply " it shows how crappy your HDD was then"

Edited By FlyinFlynn on 15/01/2020 15:18:32

Thread: Cheap Chinese Laser Cutter
15/01/2020 12:08:54

As you are using Lightburn you could flash GRBL 1.1f onto your controller. Unfortunately I am unable to install Lightburn again to see if it has a firmware update feature as my free trial period has elapsed. Re-flashing is easy enough though with an external flash program, if you wanted to.

Assuming your GRBL has $30=1000 then all looks good, that gcode produces a series of straight line cuts interspersed with non-cutting moves at a reasonable speed and intensity. I cannot see any reason why an M4 command should not work, although I don't understand what the flood coolant command is doing there (M8) - anybody know?

LightBurn uses M05 and M03 to turn the laser on and off as well as G0 for rapid moves and G1 for cutting moves, I think these M commands are superfluous as the G0 will prevent the laser from operating during rapid moves. The software I use just uses G0 to move without cutting and G1 to move with cutting so it only needs to specify M04 once at the beginning of the job and M05 at the end. I'm not sure of the reason why LightBurn does this as it increases the size and complexity of the gcode file ....anybody know?

14/01/2020 12:00:45
Posted by adrian garnham on 13/01/2020 13:26:48:


thank you. I have A4988 stepper drivers. I have fitted jumpers to all 3 pairs of pins on both x and y (I am not using z at the moment) and changed the steps per mm to 80 ..... everything is now OK

I produced my first test square on cardboard by running the program and manually turning the laser on and off at the corners etc. I haven't figured out how to get the cnc shield talking to the laser yet (my laser is this one **LINK**

The laser you have has a single 3 wire connector, those 3 wires are labelled + - and pwm. The + and - are the 12volts supply to power the laser. The third wire (PWM) goes to cncshield Z+ pin, along with a common ground wire to the ground pin next to the Z+ pin. You could use the 2 pin connector next to the 3 wire is labelled - PWM + for ground and signal, and then not use the third wire in the 3 wire connector (they appear commoned on the PCB)

I assume you have been getting the laser to come on by tapping the pwm wire from the 3 pin connector to +volts?. Normally the spec would be +5v for the PWM so be careful if you are using +12v. The spec has

Input Voltage DC12V (+,-, PWM/TTL) + DC5V (PWM/TTL,-)

(whatever that might mean?)

Martyn - I believe M4 was introduced with v1.1 so I think it should be working with 1.1e. Do you have a screenprint of your gcode where the laser comes on at about 20% that you can post? I wonder if it has to do with the speed of cut you have set, if the carriage never gets to it's full speed the laser will never get to full power, especially for short runs with low acceleration.- just a thought.

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